Optimal MG36 Gearbox

[colint94]

Hey guys, out here in AZ we have an airsoft store that will sell your guns for you when you come around to letting them go. I recently picked up a JG G36C that had been converted into the full-length G36 with Classic Army externals, but the problem is its got stock JG internals. What would be the optimal, high-ROF upgrades for it? I'm talking new gearbox, motor, hop-up, everything. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Thenooblord]

if its an MG36, IE a squad weapon, high ROF is not what you need, if you are just suppressing, a slower rate of fire has the same effect but is far less wasteful

[colint94]

Well either way I wanna run a 9.6v battery, preferably without using the KV stock because I wanna keep it as close to the real weapon as possible, including the skeleton stock. And a very respected airsofter out here used his MG36 through a few Lion Claws games and used a 9.6 so I wanna follow suit.

[skalnok]

the kv stock is true to spec depending on what country you are trying to emulate. i used to run an mg36 until i sold it and small batteries were having trouble keeping it going. i was planning on the kv stock because it is true to spec and better battery capacity.

[theguy]

I would try to hang onto the JG hop-up unit.

I know its not great, but there's not really any alternatives out there.

I couldn't fit the pro-win in my JG, and apparently the SRC one doesn't fit either.

Also, +1 to the KV stock if you don't hate it too much. Its soo much more practical.

[colint94]

Alright I'll be keeping the JG hop then, probably gonna get a Shredder's Concave Spacer put in sometime this weekend. The KV Stock is still really iffy to me, I just really don't like it. If I have to I can have the tech down at the store here to make me a custom battery, he used to work for some battery company. Some time down the line I wanna get one of the carry handles with the scope and railed top to put a Zeiss on, but thats once I finish its internals. Motor-wise, I was looking at the G&P 140 High Toque, is that a quality motor? I get high-speed but never quite understood torque.

[skalnok]

IRC high torque is for stronger springs. what is the fps limit at your field ? what fps are you trying to go for?

[Amos]

Originally Posted by colint94

Alright I'll be keeping the JG hop then, probably gonna get a Shredder's Concave Spacer put in sometime this weekend. The KV Stock is still really iffy to me, I just really don't like it. If I have to I can have the tech down at the store here to make me a custom battery, he used to work for some battery company. Some time down the line I wanna get one of the carry handles with the scope and railed top to put a Zeiss on, but thats once I finish its internals. Motor-wise, I was looking at the G&P 140 High Toque, is that a quality motor? I get high-speed but never quite understood torque.

The M140 motor will make your rate of fire pretty high on a 400~ish setup, you may want to look at a M120 motor

Torque is the "Strength" to move the spring, speed is the speed that it'll move...

If the motor doesn't have enough "strength" then it wont be able to carry the weight of the spring very quickly.

[colint94]

Ahh alright, thanks a lot. And all the places out here use Lion CLaws rules, AKA non-snipers must be under 400 with a 0.20, but preferably 380 just in case your FPS jumps around a little. Luckily the MG36 is one of three non belt-fed machine guns that are allowed in Lion Claws rules

I really just want a long-lasting, quality gearbox with a good ROF, but not outlandish. I hear systema and guarder parts are good but I don't know much about gearboxes, hence the thread.

[Kos-Mos]

It's a V3.

Best thing you can do is upgrade the piston to a Modify High speed V2 (the new white ones), M110-120 spring (should get you around 380-390 depending on your complete setup, bearing spring guide (metal, don't get the sprining ones), MASK piston head and stainless cylinder head.

If you have the blue JG motor, it is the best you can find for a setup like yours. I am running one in a 400 fps M4 using a 1400mAh mini... it rocks like no other.

You should not be concerned about mechbox breakage since it's a V3, but if it does break, get a 8mm KA mechbox. They are decent for the price.

Take this from my past experience in making and using a MG36...

Don't use a 11.1v LiPo, your drum won't feed it. I had to use a 7.4v LiPo with a race-upgraded motor (custom motor for a Mini-Z... made it quite a while ago and the car hit 100 km/h... not scale speed) in my drum to make it feed enough.

I also have installed a Prowin metal hop-up in a JG G36C. It fits no problem. You should know that you don't screw the front most screw of the mechbox at all. The hole in the hop-up is for testing outside the gun... but I have yet to make it work. Inside the gun it is a beast.

[colint94]

Awesome, thanks so much for the help! Can you just link where to buy these parts though? Can't seem to find the MASK head or the new Modify pistons.

[theguy]

airsoftparts.ca Is the biggest Canadian parts supplier, they're based out of Toronto.

I am not sure if they ship to the states.

They sell all the parts Kos-Mos talked about.

[DarkAngel]

CA Hop-up > JG Hop Up.

Just thought id point that out.

[theguy]

Originally Posted by DarkAngel

CA Hop-up > JG Hop Up.

Just thought id point that out.

Are they sold anywhere by themselves?

I simply recommended hanging on to the JG, because the only replacements I could find a couple years ago were the SRC, and the Pro-win.

I tried the pro-win, didn't fit my outer barrel assembly.

[colint94]

Well so far I'm loking at:
-Modify Stainless Cylinder Head
-Prometheus Spring Guide w/ Bearings
-Shredder's Concave Spacer
-Modify S110 Spring
-Modify Ultra High Speed Piston