loctite advice

[jesster202]

well i have my screwes for my M92fs that i have had to remove to to upgrade certin parts. now i have never really used the product that much and i know their is diffrent types. now i know i will need to remove theys to get into and replcae things like the trigger springs .ect because the stuiped way kjw designed their dissably, now does any one know what type i want to. as i know i will need to open theys agian.

[Darklen]

Use Locktite 222, it's a milky purple color. It will hold the parts in so they don't come out on thier own but you can still remove them when you want. If 222 doesn't work, go with 242. It's milky blue. Do not used the red stuff, 271. You will never get the screws out again. Also, don't get any type of threadlocker on the orings. Same goes for plastic parts, it can make them crack over time, especially polycarbonite. It will harden them up making them fail. Only use a tiny bit on the thread, you don't need much. Locktite isn't Stickem glue.

[Scooby Steve]

The blue is semi-permanent. Also found this by using Search:

Originally Posted by Darklen

Sounds like locktite 222. I use many locktites on a daily basis for breathing air equipment (aka Scott packs). While I don't use the 262 mentioned above, we use:

222 - milky purple in color, low strength, for when you don't want the screws to vibrate out on their own

242 - milky blue in color, high test version of 222. takes a bit more to remove so use it in more high vibration situations or where more strength is needed

271 - clear red, high strength thread lock. basically use where you never want to take it apart again.

One thing I don't see mentioned, and maybe I'm one of the few that comes across this, is do not use locktite thread retaining or locking compounds on plastic parts. It doesn't melt or craze them but it does weaken the plastic over time, causing it to crack. So if your using say 242 to secure your grip into your new AR gearbox, put the screws on a paper towel or tissue and put a small drop of locktite on the screw. Allow the excess locktite to be absorbed into the towel, then screw int the gearbox. Remember, locktite is a retaining/locking compound, not stickum glue. A little goes a very long way.

Edit: LOL you're fast Darklen.

[jesster202]

yeah its just screws that hold the trigger mech and the safty lever on thanks for the quick advice!

[jesster202]

i did some reserch via good old wikipedia but i was sort of confused thats why i wantted to clairfy with people whom have used this at work we use the red perminit stuff but i dont know anything else i only go by the blueprints, and thanks agian!

Originally Posted by Scooby Steve

The blue is semi-permanent. Also found this by using Search:

[RacingManiac]

Red can only be remove if you heat it, so no good for anything airsoft unless you really want it to stay there....

I've used 242(blue) for parts that tend to come loose. You can still remove them with the same tools you used to put them on, but they just won't be shaken loose easily.

[RacingManiac]

Additionally, don't over apply it. Loctite works with very little quantity(one drop is often enough). Too much and you'll be in trouble when you try to remove it regardless which one you use....

[arcanuck]

I prefer the Green loctite for most uses;

*Strong Hold
*Releases when heated with small torch or soldeing iron; good for if you plan to remove something in the future.

[coach]

Originally Posted by arcanuck

I prefer the Green loctite for most uses;

*Strong Hold
*Releases when heated with small torch or soldeing iron; good for if you plan to remove something in the future.

Not that good if you have to heat a screw in a plastic body part!

IMO, stick with purple or blue. Both can be broken by hand with a regular screwdriver

[Darklen]

As I said before, Locktite shouldn't be used on plastic AEG parts (I.E. ABS) as it can cause the plastic to become brittle and crack over time.

[Vivisector]

Just as a word of warning, using blue locktite on my TM AK-47 stock years ago resulted in the plastic gradually spiderwebbing to the point that it eventually broke into shards of plastic near wear I used it.

[Spawn28]

for plastic use liquid electrical tape
for metal use blue loctite

[Crunchmeister]

Locktite 222 or 242 if you need to remove the screws. That's all you really need. Any more is overkill and unecessary.

And as the guys said, keep it away from plastic parts. But I think the only plastic on the KJ M9 is the mag catch, so not sure that's an issue. Just careful not to get it on the seals, because it will eat rubber.

[coach]

Originally Posted by Darklen

As I said before, Locktite shouldn't be used on plastic AEG parts (I.E. ABS) as it can cause the plastic to become brittle and crack over time.

I'm talking more along the lines of heating the screws with a "torch or soldering iron" as arcanuck was suggesting to break them free

[Kos-Mos]

You can also use any glue that do not attack plastics.

I am using a drop of cyanoacrilate (super glue) made for foam. It does not attack plastics.

I have the reg one and a "rubber" one.

First one is grinding to dust when the screw is removed.
Second one is staing soft, so I only have to apply it once.

I can assure you that is does not attack plastics in any way (if you take the foam safe). I have parts that had this treatement for over 7 years now and they are still A1.