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December 31st, 2007, 05:13 | #1 |
m4/m16 barrel wobble fix
this is in response to jesster202's question on barrel wobble. here is my fix i used on my ics. did this mod about a year and a few months ago,,and havent had any problems since. fix is simple and cheap.
here's what you will need: - allen key for barrel,if its a two piece one. - good quality scissors. - aluminum pop can. first thing is to get a stable work platform and remove your handguards. not familiar with the j/g takedown but you will need to remove the inner barrel of the weapon to continue. once handguards are removed,and inner barrel is removed you will see that the two piece barrel is tightend with a tiny allen key,which is a joke and always comes loose no matter how tight you make it. remove this allen bolt and simply unscrew the front half off. mark the barrels original position so everything matches original set-up. now you will see the exposed threads and the slot where the allen bolt tightens up the two assemblies. cut a small strip from the aluminum pop can no larger than exposed threads of the barrel and be sure it wraps around the threads but does not overlap or it will be to thick. once this is done simply twist the front half back on untill you reach the mark on the barrel. this will take some force to complete. once back to your original mark,screw the allem bolt back in. STEP TWO the majority of the barrel wobble is here: again,,not familiar with j/g takedown but this next segment is why you need to remove the inner barrel.on my ICS there are four pins holding the the barrel to the body and they need to be pushed out in order to seperate the barrel from the body. this will be impossible with the inner barrel still in. you following me? ok,,good. once the barrel assemply has been removed make yourself another pop can shim as you did earlier. place the shim around the mount thats attached to the body and simply force the barrel assembly back on and replace your pins. on mine i had to use some "redneck force" ( ie hammer ) to get the assembly back on. exercise EXTREME CAUTION if you need to use force. i placed my m16 on the stock standing up and small piece of 2x4 over the flash hider and TAPPED IT TOGETHER GENTLY. as i stated earlier i did this over a year ago and have had zero wobble since. good luck and i hope this helps. ken. (ps) this repair appears as "backyard repair" because thats what is,,lol,,its also free in cost and works,and no one will see it!!use of teflon tape or anything other than aluminum shims will fail down the road and you will need to redo the process,,trust me on this,,i been there,,,, Last edited by six4; December 31st, 2007 at 05:21.. |
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December 31st, 2007, 08:00 | #2 |
MY FIX
My hillbilly repair was done with solder with some flux and a torch. I soldered it like you would a copper pluming pipe. This so far has fixed my TM AR barrel wobble.
Last edited by zone 69; December 31st, 2007 at 08:14.. |
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December 31st, 2007, 18:46 | #3 |
lol thanks six4 this helps a lot and the j/g is take down is 100 percent simalair thanks guys for helping me and wlecoming me into this sport not all i need to do is get 3 more low caps/mids and some tac gear and im so going to play this summer
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January 1st, 2008, 05:17 | #4 |
one other tid bit,if your j/g is like my ics,(ie) metal body full stock,,do not use the front "D" ring sling mount,,i found out the hard way that they break. look at my first pic to get sling suggestions.
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January 1st, 2008, 14:13 | #5 |
I've JB-Welded mine, still solid after a year. I've also found that drilling/tapping the setscrew holes for larger ones (10-32 is good), makes a huge difference, if you still want the parts to come apart later.
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