Removig Krylon without screwing up the original paint?

FULLMETAL · December 10th, 2014, 14:21

Hi guys I have a not so simple question here. I bought recently a PTW but the ex owner kryloned the entire receiver (even the stock), I HATE painted guns I really like the original color. So my question is, is there ANY way to remove the krylon without destroying the original paint/coating?

Cheers!

Strelok · December 10th, 2014, 16:03

Nail polish remover and a rag. It'll be a long process.

AlexGPS · December 10th, 2014, 16:10

Iv used light paint remover before and left it on for a couple of minutes before removing it. It might remove some of the paint underneath but you can always reapply more paint. Its not a full proof method of removing paint but it was alright by my standards.

FULLMETAL · December 10th, 2014, 16:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strelok

Nail polish remover and a rag. It'll be a long process.

as far as it comes out I dont care... :P

BTW, thanks for the recommendations guys.

Strelok · December 11th, 2014, 15:36

The nice thing about Krylon Camo is that it does fuck all to stick to metal in most cases. Plastic might be a bit more difficult to remove (And do expect to tarnish any of the plastic you do work over, as the acetone in the polish remover will try to melt it.)

I would recommend just repainting whatever you're working on in the end. Getting a real firearm finish/paint makes them look so much nicer.

Edit: Actually, I just remembered I had used 'Simple Green' degreaser to remove paint from an old M4 5 pos stock and slim foregrip. It took a week or two of sitting in the fluid and scrubbing with a toothbrush to lift all the paint, but I was able to do so without damaging the plastic in any way.

Just time consuming...

Azathoth · December 11th, 2014, 16:24

Sandpaper/screw driver + lots of time.

If you don't want any sandpaper/scratch marks take it apart, and leave it in a container with MR. Clean or other acetone/nail polish remover. Rubbing alcohol may do the job as well.

Fast forward to 1:20

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nO-OJ-qio7U

RainyEyes · December 11th, 2014, 17:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strelok

The nice thing about Krylon Camo is that it does fuck all to stick to metal in most cases. Plastic might be a bit more difficult to remove (And do expect to tarnish any of the plastic you do work over, as the acetone in the polish remover will try to melt it.)

I would recommend just repainting whatever you're working on in the end. Getting a real firearm finish/paint makes them look so much nicer.

Edit: Actually, I just remembered I had used 'Simple Green' degreaser to remove paint from an old M4 5 pos stock and slim foregrip. It took a week or two of sitting in the fluid and scrubbing with a toothbrush to lift all the paint, but I was able to do so without damaging the plastic in any way.

Just time consuming...

What I did was when I botched my paint job, I used oven cleaner on ABS plastics. It does not eat through the plastic, and it does a great job removing the paint. Just wet the surface a little, throw some oven cleaner powder on and let it sit for about 30 seconds to 2 minutes, then brush it with the rough side of a sponge or plastic wool scrunchy things. Rinse and repeat until the paint is removed. I'd expect the same results from metal and rubber, but as always, start with a test surface and see if there are fruitful results.

siggypoo · December 11th, 2014, 19:42

In my experience, it might be better to remove all of the finish and take it down to the white, then refinish it.
What I use for removing most finishes from metal is TSP, about $3 at Canadian Tire. You just need a container big enough for the part/s in question, toss in between a teaspoon and a quarter cup of TSP (depending on the size of the parts), cover the item with hot tap water, swish it around to disolve the TSP, and have a b33r while the mix does 90% of the work for you. May take five minutes, may take a couple hours, but most finishes are gone.
Clean off the part under your warm tap with a dish brush and dish detergent.

Location: YYZ VOR 062 radial, 17.5 DME FL5280

FULLMETAL · December 11th, 2014, 20:15

luckily is coming out really nice just with acetone (nail polish remover). I will have some extra fun with the but stock, but is going to be replaced by a UBR anyway so I dont care! :P

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December 10th, 2014, 14:21	#1
FULLMETAL Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Montreal	Removig Krylon without screwing up the original paint? Hi guys I have a not so simple question here. I bought recently a PTW but the ex owner kryloned the entire receiver (even the stock), I HATE painted guns I really like the original color. So my question is, is there ANY way to remove the krylon without destroying the original paint/coating? Cheers!

December 11th, 2014, 15:36	#5
Strelok Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Brandon Manitoba	The nice thing about Krylon Camo is that it does fuck all to stick to metal in most cases. Plastic might be a bit more difficult to remove (And do expect to tarnish any of the plastic you do work over, as the acetone in the polish remover will try to melt it.) I would recommend just repainting whatever you're working on in the end. Getting a real firearm finish/paint makes them look so much nicer. Edit: Actually, I just remembered I had used 'Simple Green' degreaser to remove paint from an old M4 5 pos stock and slim foregrip. It took a week or two of sitting in the fluid and scrubbing with a toothbrush to lift all the paint, but I was able to do so without damaging the plastic in any way. Just time consuming... Last edited by Strelok; December 11th, 2014 at 15:47..

December 11th, 2014, 19:42	#8
siggypoo Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Oshawa, Ontario.	In my experience, it might be better to remove all of the finish and take it down to the white, then refinish it. What I use for removing most finishes from metal is TSP, about $3 at Canadian Tire. You just need a container big enough for the part/s in question, toss in between a teaspoon and a quarter cup of TSP (depending on the size of the parts), cover the item with hot tap water, swish it around to disolve the TSP, and have a b33r while the mix does 90% of the work for you. May take five minutes, may take a couple hours, but most finishes are gone. Clean off the part under your warm tap with a dish brush and dish detergent. Location: YYZ VOR 062 radial, 17.5 DME FL5280 __________________

December 10th, 2014, 16:03	#2
Strelok Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Brandon Manitoba	Nail polish remover and a rag. It'll be a long process.

December 10th, 2014, 16:10	#3
AlexGPS Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Scarorough Toronto	Iv used light paint remover before and left it on for a couple of minutes before removing it. It might remove some of the paint underneath but you can always reapply more paint. Its not a full proof method of removing paint but it was alright by my standards.

December 11th, 2014, 20:15	#9
FULLMETAL Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Montreal	luckily is coming out really nice just with acetone (nail polish remover). I will have some extra fun with the but stock, but is going to be replaced by a UBR anyway so I dont care! :P

Removig Krylon without screwing up the original paint?

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