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September 24th, 2006, 02:51 | #1 |
AKA Daniel Ochoa
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My G19 Trademark project
Hey guys.
I recently purchased a TW metal slide for a KSC G19 from ASCA (Thanks HoTru). I have to say that I loved the fit and finish of the slide and outer barrel. The only thing that bothered me were the trademarks. LAME-O! I knew I wanted the trademarks to look somewhat close to a real GLOCK but I was unsure of my options. I perused the forums in search of ways I could get proper trades on the slide. Everything that I came across was too expensive and niche or just infeasable. I found a few pics of freeman's G19 in the ASC gallery. He had polished his slide and hand engraved the GLOCK trademark with an engraving tool. I thought his idea was great so I decided to copy him. I didn't have an engraving tool and I was working with a tight budget. Buying an engraving tool was out of the question. I had to improvise. Here's what I used to get the trades on my slide: - exacto knife (w/a chipped tip*) - packing tape - soft lead pencil - armour coat matte black rust paint (left over) - LePage Epoxy Steel - sand paper (600 grit) - printer - letter size paper - staedtler erasing shield - environmentally safe paint stripper (slow but not detremental to the environment) Getting rid fo the old paint: 1. strip the original paint job off the slide (or use sand it off) 2. sand it lightly with 600 grit sandpaper 3. put an even coat of matte black rust paint on the slide 4. let dry This painting won't be permanent. It's only put on to provide enough contrast during engraving. Making the new trades 1. get an image of the GLOCK logo off the internet or off a RS GLOCK 2. scale/crop the image to the size it would appear on the slide. I used CorelDraw 12 (imo a much more inuititive program than Illustrator) 3. print out the image 4. cut out the image and use a soft lead pencil to colour in the opposite side of the print out. 5. tape the print out to the slide 6. using the curves and straight edges on the erasing shield, trace the logo with a pencil or pen. Press hard. 7. remove the taped print out from the slide. You should see the carbon from the tracing on the slide. 8. using the curves and straight edges on the erasing shield, lightly go over all the carbon outlines imprinted on the slide with an exacto knife (not a box cutter!) 9. repeat step eight but go over them a bit harder. Only do this if you are happy with the way the step 8 went. 10. keep repeating step eight untill you are happy with the depth of the engravings. 11. You are finished! If you want black trades you can strip the paint again and reapply the paint. If you made the trades too shallow they may not show up. *The exacto knife I used had a chipped tip. Instead of the tip coming to a point it came to a 0.5mm truncation. I used the dull edge, adjacent to the sharp edge to make the engravings because the line created with that edge was thicker and more consistent. Threaded Outer Barrel I didn't like my options for a G19 outer barrel so I decided to go a different way. The outer barrel is a -14mm stainless G17 barrel from Guarder. I bought it thinking that the G17 and G19 barrels were interchangeable. Nope. I decided to butcher it. I cut both the TW barrel and the Guarder barrel with a circumfrencial pipe cutter. I spliced the TW chamber with the Guarder threaded barrel end with some 10mm masking tape. I'm waiting for my suppressor to come in before I epoxy them together. I'm going to adjust the outer barrel so that when I attach the suppressor the trades on it will be facing the left of the gun. It's actually holding up pretty wellon duster with the just the tape. I was surprised. Also, Guarder didn't do a good jood with the barrel. The foot of the chamber was warped open. I had to put the chamber part of the barrel in a vise to get it straight. It was all in vain as the parts were incompatible. I expected more from Guarder really. Here are the pics of it so far. I put "This is a toy gun" so photobucket won't start shit with me. I still have to fix the "C" in GLOCK. It looks a bit wonky. I'm going to fill it in with epoxy steel and recarve it. I also still have to do "AUSTRIA" and "9 x 19". Screw the other side. Pshaw! I redid the trades today. I didn't like the proportions of the my first draft. I remember seeing a G19 FMU review on ASR whose proportions I liked. I found a suitable image and warped the perspective out in photoshop. I used the edited image as reference in the new draft. Here's the original image from ASR. I later warped it in photoshop to eliminate the perspective. Here are my new trademarks: |
September 24th, 2006, 02:54 | #2 |
Looks great nice job
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September 24th, 2006, 03:29 | #3 |
Looks nice man! Are you thinking of getting the Austria and 9x19 in there?
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September 24th, 2006, 12:12 | #4 | |
AKA Daniel Ochoa
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Quote:
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September 24th, 2006, 14:32 | #5 |
im impressed thats better than what i can do with my dremel.
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September 24th, 2006, 14:35 | #6 |
You did that with an XACTO KNIFE!? 8O Wow...
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September 24th, 2006, 14:53 | #7 |
nicely done :cheers: good results for an exacto knife!
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I AM LOST!! join me... http://www.lost.eu/3a30b I am worth $2,064,160 on http://www.HumanForSale.com |
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September 24th, 2006, 17:16 | #8 |
Woa that looks really good. Did you engrave it your self?
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September 24th, 2006, 18:21 | #9 | |
kos
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Quote:
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September 24th, 2006, 19:35 | #10 |
Amazing work... I don't think I have the nads yet to attempt this on mine. Excellent layout of instruction though.
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October 13th, 2006, 02:02 | #11 |
Sorry to bring this thread back, but I bought the gun and the slide from EN SABAR NUR, and it is quite an awesome job that he did with the slide. Shame about the barrel that didn't work out. I just got a new set of TW slide+barrel and I am going to use the barrel but keep the custom slide(of course!), and see if I can figure out a better method for a custom threaded barrel(or somehow track down a shooter design one....unlikely)....
didn't know he repaint the slide, which would explain for the slightly funky smell of it....lol |
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