~M140 spring V.2 gearbox?

[the mad installer]

This is just my 2 cents,but I sell airsoft products here in the states but I also have a house in mississauga,First,I think that the systema polycarb. pistons are garbage,they dont hold up at all,I have a classic army sl8 that shoots 420fps with .25's,what I have in it is systema super torque up helical gears,Airsoft surgen stage 3spring(I think they are the best springs out there)CA bore up kit,deep fire titanium teeth piston,7mil. bearing gear box,(CA)madbull tight bore,systema magnun motor,(much better than the ICS 3000)and with that motor and gear set up I can use a 7.2 volt battery,this is just my opion,I have gone through alot of different products and this is what I've come up with.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ecsinc

Illusion, what ways?
I was told plastic spacers either between the piston and spring or spring and spring guide. I herd that 1 spacer would add about 10fps but what size I do not know. Plus this aded length would add resting stress on the gearbox. No, im not worried that my gearbox will break but I just want things to last.

What ways? Sorry, what I said must have been mis-worded. What I meant to say was: "There are ways to push a version 2 gearbox to the point of handling 450+fps upgrades without breaking."

If you're looking to just increase velocity, work on your air seal and drop a heavy spring in. :P

Quality ventilated piston heads already have ball bearing spacers inside the piston. Don't add any more spacers on top of a bearing piston head and a bearing spring guide or you risk stripping your piston teeth and gears. A spring can only compress so much - if you reach its absolute, it WILL stop. You can't compress a spring anymore once all the coils are touching...

If you're shooting at 450fps, you SHOULD be worried about your gearbox breaking. I've seen broken REINFORCED v2 gearboxes that shot 400fps - all because they were not upgraded properly. You're pushing that boundary even further. If your gearbox breaks, you also risk damaging your sector gear and piston.

Originally Posted by ecsinc

Hopefully I can pick up just a anti reversial latch spring instead of buying a entire new latch. Is that my bb feeding problems? Since the spring wasn't there the gears were moving too fast and the bb didn't have enough time to feed?

The anti-reversal latch has nothing to do with feeding. Sometimes hard buckings restrict the BB from feeding properly. You may need to modify the bucking itself or the chamber to allow greater compression of the rubber. You can check to see if that's the problem by dropping a BB in the chamber and seeing if you can push it fully in to battery with a gentle prod using a pen. It should NOT be difficult at all to push it in. All it needs is a nudge. If it's difficult to push in, then your hop up chamber is either sitting too close to the gearbox (causing the nozzle to get in the way) or the hop up bucking is too stiff. To test if it's the bucking, install the stock one and see if you still have the same problem.

[ecsinc]

Thanks for the tip about the hopup. I think it has something to do with the bucking becuase the tappet plate easially pushes the air nozzle back far enough.

I just checked my piston head and it doesn't seal properly so I'll just wait till I have the new piston head.

If this spring doesn't work good with my battery then I'll downgrade to the M120 then add spacers, checking carefully that I'm not getting things too tight.
This upgrade IS for fps but I want this increase in fps because I want better range. With the first 25 rounds I used with the M130 I noticed a huge difference with accuracy and range. I could hit my neighbors front door probably 200ft away every time. The bb's didn't arc or dip at the end either. With the soft bucking and M120 they did arc up then arc down at the end. Not anymore.

[the mad installer]

I was'nt trying to contradict you,I was just giving my 2 cents,I have had my guns upgraded for a while and didnt have any probs. if you use the right parts,you might also try to use pure silicone grease on the O-ring if you have no compprestion,or change the O-ring completely it might be worn,but always grease the O-ring.You can get the at home depot in the plumbing dept. size 14 if it is a stock cylinder.

[ecsinc]

Thanks for the help guys, this has been very informative. I will inform you guys how things go because right now I'm about to leave on a little vacation.
I have been given ideas on the spacers, new motors, gears all good stuff. All This information will hopefully bring a tactical advantage to me and help my team at events in the long run. Yes, I do understand my gun may break but I plan on using this gun very few times. With semi auto only I also think I will become a better shooter in the long run.
Tactical advantage but reliability disadvantage...hehe

I'll give my battery usage report once I get back and get my gun back together. Hopefully one of you guys are a DM or something close to that and can inform me on how many rounds you usually use during a day event, semi auto only.

[ecsinc]

My gun is working now. Got the parts to fix it. Something happened and now when i select semi it doesn't fire but the trigger makes contact... but then in full auto it works semi auto only. Which doesn't bother me but its weird its now doing that.
Also with the hopup situation. The stock bucking works fine but when I use the hard bucking, i think it pushes the hopup assembly forward and the first shot goes but then next couple a shots you can hear the air leaking and the bb's travel 50ft. So right now I have the stock bucking with the hard bucking rubber knub for the hopup. This seems to work alright but I don't believe it fires as far as with the hard bucking.

I'll get the gun choronoed friday.
Using the 8.4v battery seems fine. I'm getting a 9.6v here soon. But the accuracy is great. I can hit a 12"diameter tree 100ft away 7/10 times with stock bucking.

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by ecsinc

My gun is working now. Got the parts to fix it. Something happened and now when i select semi it doesn't fire but the trigger makes contact... but then in full auto it works semi auto only.

Take your lower receiver off, put the selector to semi then wiggle it all back together. Sometimes when putting those guns back together the selector and the plate don't mesh properly causing what you describe, or full only with no semi.

[ecsinc]

I've got the M733 but I want to use a low mount rail system for my scope I'm about to put on it.
It shoots real good, got the bucking fixxed, fires dead straight and far with .2. Right now the M733 upper reciever doesn't have the detachable carry handle. I have the handle rail mount adapter but I want to cut off my carry handle and mod the upper reciever so the rails fit in the upper reciver like the detachable carry handle version.
Is there a thread out there that shows how to do this? Also has anyone else done this?
I really want to do this but im just wondering how hard its going to be to get it to look like the real version removable carry handle? I'm pretty skilled at cutting and sanding so I should be able to get it in there. Just wondering how it looks and functions.
The rail goes from the front of the carry handle's bottom to where the selector switch is. Is that long enough?

Thanks!
I've got a 9.6v 1400mAh too btw

[ILLusion]

Personally, I think that'd look weird. Why not just buy a replacement upper receiver? How expensive can it be where you are?

[ecsinc]

oh well, to late now. I've got the thing off and new rails on. All gluued down and almost ready to go. Sand it down tomorrow morning, paint it, then put the gun back together.
I'm going to pick up a $30 4x scope w/rings. Should look pretty good I think.

Hopefully by mid afternoon I can pop off a few rounds and see if I need to go heavier then .2's. My big thing is range, I want range. Mostly where im going to play is wooded so there is lesser of a chance of wind so rule that out.

You think my gun now with a scope, 509mm 6.04mm TB, M130, semi only will have a good advantage over regular 400fps AEGs? Assuming my gun is shooting 450fps, which I've been told it could shoot 430fps and all the way upto 460fps on a M130. The spring is brand new.

[ILLusion]

At that velocity, you SHOULD be going heavier than .2s, or your accuracy will suffer greatly. You should actually be leaning towards even heavier BBs like 0.28s.

[CDN_Stalker]

Agreed. Heavier BBs will give you the range you want, and accuracy at that range too. Lighter BBs might seem to go farther, but your chances of hitting anything are nil. Why settle for a light BB that veers off course at 100ft then lands 200ft away when you can use a heavier BB that will carry itself to 150ft or more before going off course?

[ecsinc]

http://www.geocities.com/chomesnow/DSCN010344.jpg

That's what it looks like so far. Still need some touch up paint and it should be good to go. I'm going to get my scope soon after i stop by the doc's.
.25's good?
I can get a bag of .25's or .3's. KSC perfects.
.25's will get be about 402fps. .3's will get me 367fps. Calculated on kenetic energy.

[TokyoSeven]

Thats nice a fit, I really had something diffrent in my mind when you stated that you wanted to cut off the carry handle. But it actually works really well, nice work man!

[ecsinc]

Big problem, when i turn the hopup on I get a real loud sound from my gearbox when it fires and the bb just drops probably 75ft vs some good shots that go 200ft. It usually makes this loud sound on 2-3 consecutive shots.
I'm wondering if its a bad piston head seal since i'm using silicon oil only and not grease. Or could it be the stock cylinder head? Could it be a hopup problem? I'm thinking of putting the stock hopup rubber back on... : ( Usually it doesn't do it when the hopup is off. Only when it is on.

Updated pic:
http://www.geocities.com/chomesnow/DSCN0105.JPG