WE Open Bolt M4 Semi fire issue with RA-Tech CNC Steel hammer & Sear

[TJX]

After replacing my stock hammer and steel with RA-Tech CNC steel versions, my semi-auto only fires once and when I pull the trigger again, does not fire. Only when I rack the bolt back can it fire once more. Full auto works just fine. I'm also using a RA-Tech CNC steel bolt carrier.

I installed these on both the OEM trigger box and the RA-Tech Steel trigger box. Same results.

[N_Force]

Mostly ratech those parts off spec.
I had problem with ratech ak trigger set and had to file down slmaost 1-2 mm to fix the whole set.

[Kos-Mos]

Every RAtech trigger I ever installed needed some work/fitting.
Take your time, look for what can be wrong.
It most likely does not reset when you release the trigger.
That is caused by the "hook" at the rear of the hammer/trigger to be a tiny bit too long.
Be careful, remove too much and your sears will slip and you will only get fullauto/drag fire.

[daishi]

I dont know why anyone replaces anything with RA-Tech anymore.

Run your gun till something breaks...then replace it with stock parts. They run for quite awhile now.

[pestobanana]

Gotta love how airsoft companies can afford to buy expensive CNC machines but are too inept to take proper measurements. RA-Tech is bad for this, even worse is anything from the Czech Rep.

[TJX]

Thx for all the advice guys I was able to get my trigger working last night by using the sear from my steel trigger set with the new CNC steel hammer and installing both in the OEM trigger box. I'm also using the OEM trigger. The reason I bought the new CNC parts in the first place was because the hammer from my steel trigger box was worn out and causing my semi auto to burst fire. Just thought I might as well get a new sear as well.

I'll still attempt to get new CNC sear to work with the CNC hammer when I have the time to do some filing/modifications. Right now, i'm just happy to have my semi auto functioning.

[turok_t]

Whatever u do, don't mix ratech steel parts with the original WE/oem pot metal parts given the materials are different causing premature wear. If you using ratech hammer and sear, do not use the WE trigger since it's the front end of the trigger that actually engages the hammer. Feel free to refer back to my guide here:

http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=132679

[TJX]

Originally Posted by turok_t

Whatever u do, don't mix ratech steel parts with the original WE/oem pot metal parts given the materials are different causing premature wear. If you using ratech hammer and sear, do not use the WE trigger since it's the front end of the trigger that actually engages the hammer. Feel free to refer back to my guide here:

http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=132679

I tried that also using the Steel Trigger box - kept all the original RA-TECH Steel trigger parts intact (steel sear inside steel trigger), only replacing the steel hammer with the New CNC Steel Hammer. This resulted in semi auto firing once and then firing in burst AFTER I let go of the trigger. When I transferred the steel sear to the OEM trigger and trigger box along with the CNC Hammer, semi auto works just fine.

So I don't know if it's just the Steel trigger or the Steel box itself that doesn't work well with CNC Hammer. I'll try installing the steel sear to the steel trigger and put both inside the OEM box and see what happens.

Perhaps I might have to get the RA-TECH CNC Steel trigger as well?

[turok_t]

So first thing is to get the terminology right. The actual part that releases the hammer is called the sear. The sear is actually part of the hammer and it is located at the front. The sear is a corner that mates With a notch in the hammer. The other piece you are referring to that sits in the trigger is called the disconnecter. The disconnecter actually grabs onto the hammer first before it is caught by the sear in semi. In full auto, the disconnect is disengaged.

Regardless if the trigger box is stock or ratech it's the same so swapping trigger boxes isn't going to do anything. The issue is the engagement between the ratech hammer and ratech disconnector. This is a hook design vs the stock counterparts which is a notch design.. You can't mix and match between ratech and we for this reason because they were designed to work together. Don't use the stock we trigger as it will be worn out by the rate has steel parts

If u give it to me, I can troubleshoot it for u

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by turok_t

So first thing is to get the terminology right. The actual part that releases the hammer is called the sear. The sear is actually part of the hammer and it is located at the front. The sear is a corner that mates With a notch in the hammer. The other piece you are referring to that sits in the trigger is called the disconnecter. The disconnecter actually grabs onto the hammer first before it is caught by the sear in semi. In full auto, the disconnect is disengaged.

Regardless if the trigger box is stock or ratech it's the same so swapping trigger boxes isn't going to do anything. The issue is the engagement between the ratech hammer and ratech disconnector. This is a hook design vs the stock counterparts which is a notch design.. You can't mix and match between ratech and we for this reason because they were designed to work together. Don't use the stock we trigger as it will be worn out by the rate has steel parts

If u give it to me, I can troubleshoot it for u

You're still alive?

[TJX]

K, so I've ordered the CNC trigger, will update on what happens.

Btw, are there any issues with using the OEM firing Pin and Valve locker with the CNC steel parts? And what about that part sits on top of the trigger box, behind the hammer? Does it matter if that's OEM?

Thx again for the advice.

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by TJX

K, so I've ordered the CNC trigger, will update on what happens.

Btw, are there any issues with using the OEM firing Pin and Valve locker with the CNC steel parts? And what about that part sits on top of the trigger box, behind the hammer? Does it matter if that's OEM?

Thx again for the advice.

I would probably change the valve knocker and locker as well. The oem valve locker breaks easily as well and the ratech upgrade part works well. That part that sits behind the hammer is the full auto sear, the oem version is already steel, and the ratech one that comes with the full trigger set is also steel, so no need

E-luder: dude,where have you been? I see all your new guns but no word from u text me bro!

[TJX]

Okay, so I received the CNC Steel Trigger. Put together the Steel Sear, the CNC Steel trigger, the CNC Steel hammer all in the RA-Tech Steel Trigger box (which includes the steel firing pin and Valve locker). Semi and full auto works perfectly! No filing of parts needed. I guess if you're getting the CNC Steel hammer, you'd need the CNC Steel Trigger as well?