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Old June 9th, 2008, 21:08   #1
panzergrenadier
 
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Lubing/Cleaning...

I know Silicone spray is good for cleaning/ lubing but does anyone know if CLP 22 works just as good or better?
It's used to clean and lube parts on real rifles so I figure why not airsoft?
anyhow if anyone knows... I'd appreciate the input.
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Old June 9th, 2008, 21:10   #2
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If it has any petroleum ingredients it will do bad things to plastic and rubber.
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Old June 9th, 2008, 21:27   #3
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Since this topic is up; I have to buy some grease - are there any differences between brands of silicone grease? If so, which one is the tops?
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Old June 9th, 2008, 21:37   #4
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I always used motomaster white grease. Works great and has never harmed any plastic parts.
5 bucks for a tub large enough that you'll lose it before it runs out.
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Old June 9th, 2008, 21:38   #5
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Old June 10th, 2008, 10:15   #6
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The CLP comes in a plastic bottle that seems to not erode... so I guess it's safe on the plastic parts.
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Old June 10th, 2008, 10:22   #7
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Careful with that assumption...but you may very well be correct.

Plastic is not the same as rubber...if in doubt, take a spare/old/ripped hopup rubber and/or o-ring and test the substance out. really massage it in there to simulate accelerated wear. After a couple of days see if there's any deterioration. If not, you're probably good to go.

I haven't any CLP left to test with...it got tossed years ago.

If it has a petroleum based oil carrier, or if it burns...probably not a good thing to use.

The worst that happens is you ruin your o-rings/hopup rubber.

Not sure what you're cleaning/lubing...but really 100% pure silicone oil or white lith paste (tube stuff, not spray), or the superlube/viperlube (clear gel) will do just about anything you want.
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Old June 10th, 2008, 10:23   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panzergrenadier View Post
The CLP comes in a plastic bottle that seems to not erode... so I guess it's safe on the plastic parts.
Is thi s it? http://www.pianosupplies.com/Merchan...ode=Protek1406

"Since Protek will not harm wood, plastic, metal or the piano finish, it is excellent for damper guide rail bushings, underlever lubrication, front and balance rail pins, capstan screws and squeky knuckles."

But how well would it work between gears? Don't know if it was really meant for that.
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Old June 10th, 2008, 10:29   #9
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I thought he meant Break Free's CLP...it's a common firearms lubricant...but I may be completely wrong (I often am )

The CLP that I'm thinking of comes in both bottle/pump spray and aerosol.
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Old June 10th, 2008, 10:40   #10
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Yeah it's more the Firearms CLP... I can't find any pictures of the bottle on the net... It comes in a black bottle with white lettering...
It works real nice on real steel moving rifle parts. ie. Trigger mech, bolt, bolt carrier, buffer spring... so it should work well for gears and such... I'll just have to test it out on old hopup rubbbers/ o rings as m102404 suggested.
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Old June 10th, 2008, 10:50   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panzergrenadier View Post
Yeah it's more the Firearms CLP... I can't find any pictures of the bottle on the net... It comes in a black bottle with white lettering...
It works real nice on real steel moving rifle parts. ie. Trigger mech, bolt, bolt carrier, buffer spring... so it should work well for gears and such... I'll just have to test it out on old hopup rubbbers/ o rings as m102404 suggested.

ok this looks like it:
http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd....rSuperSKU=&MC=

looks like same product with better description: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=667637

panzergrenadier, how thick is this stuff. If its very thin I don't think it will last on metal to metal meshing gears. I am scared to test "Composed of more than 15 chemicals including synthetic oils, solvents and rust inhibitors" on plastic abs parts like the exterior to resist mud and grit from sticking. Should be great to clean out a gears box with it. If its thicker then it will stay on the gear meshing longer.

btw what parts are you "cleaning/ lubing" on the AEG? Did not see it listed in your post. I usually just wipe the exterior with water on cloth. Nothing fancy. I just don't trust chemicals on the plastic exterior. edit ok I see that " ie. Trigger mech, bolt, bolt carrier, buffer spring."
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Old June 10th, 2008, 11:09   #12
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Originally Posted by Syn View Post
ok this looks like it:
http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd....rSuperSKU=&MC=

looks like same product with better description: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=667637

panzergrenadier, how thick is this stuff. If its very thin I don't think it will last on metal to metal meshing gears. I am scared to test "Composed of more than 15 chemicals including synthetic oils, solvents and rust inhibitors" on plastic abs parts like the exterior to resist mud and grit from sticking. Should be great to clean out a gears box with it. If its thicker then it will stay on the gear meshing longer.

btw what parts are you "cleaning/ lubing" on the AEG? Did not see it listed in your post. I usually just wipe the exterior with water on cloth. Nothing fancy. I just don't trust chemicals on the plastic exterior.
Yeah it's not very thick. Definately not as thick as some of the silicone lubes. I was planning on using it to lube the mechbox and clean the bore, it works well to get encrusted dirt and crap out of real steel parts and I know it'll work well to keep the metal parts lubed.. but I wasn't sure about deterioration of the plastic parts.
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Old June 10th, 2008, 11:19   #13
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Ditto on just wiping down plastic aegs...but on metal AEGs, especially with "nice/real" parts (i.e. sights, body pins, etc..) that are made out of steel, I'll oil (wd40 on a rag) them or grease them (white lith on a rag or plain old finger).

My spanking new FAL rusted after the first game out in the rain...it actually seized the charging handle and there was a nice orange tinge to a couple of parts. I've since fully disassembled, cleaned, greased and lubed any suspect parts...worst offender was the recoil spring for the bolt. Even though the charging handle assembly didn't rust, I still greased the touching parts to ease the movement. Same with the rails for the dust cover.

On GBBs, I've mostly used pure silicone oil (the AI/MadMax stuff). But I've tried MSO2 (molybendum disulfied....or Moly). I had a bunch of it left over from when I used to moly coat bullets. It was ok, just applied to the rails. MadMax recommended graphite paste (just grease with graphite power) on the rails. I've gotten lazy lately with my own stuff and just give the rails a light wipe with lithium grease....solely for the fact that it's close at hand.

Once lubed...you don't need to "re-lube" your mechbox. Once repair that came across my bench looked like the guy regularly applied oil into the mechbox (either through the barrel or through the feed tube?!?) and both the mechbox and the complete inside of the body was swimming in oil...a shop rag was literally saturated with oil by the time the rifle/mechbox was clean enough to start work on.

Not a lot of rubber on real steel...
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Old June 10th, 2008, 12:04   #14
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Great... Thanks for the input everyone!
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Old June 10th, 2008, 12:22   #15
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CLP apparently contains solvents...

Solvents = Bad for rubber
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