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Old May 26th, 2006, 01:14   #16
SHaKaL
 
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The loose metal disc is some kind of spacer/protector for your motor... nothing unusual
It goes between the screw and motor
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Old May 26th, 2006, 01:21   #17
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Ok, so thats not a huge deal, Ill put it all back together, and find a small allen key tomorow, take it all apart, check the motor, and make sure its tight up into the reciever. Im sure thats what it is because I can manualy hold it up as tight as I can so its snug and it fires perfect.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 01:27   #18
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Cool
Glad i could help
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Old May 26th, 2006, 01:30   #19
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I will try to tighten that tomorow, or do some modding to it, but that seems to be it for sure, nothing wrong with my gears or mech box *phew*

Thanks Shakal, Ill update tomorow if I got it working again.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 02:09   #20
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First make sure that the grip plate is secured into the grip (a loose grip plate makes a mess of setscrew adjustments).

Drive in the motor set screw all the way in until you feel it bearing the motor up against the bevel gear (screw gets tight). DO NOT FIRE in this condition. Back the screw off about 1.5 turns and thump the handgrip to get the motor to push back and set against the screw.

Fire in semi auto mode while backing the screw out in quarter turns. Listen to the sound of the engagement and stop adjusting as soon as it sounds less grindy. Go too far and the teeth will not engage enough and they'll strip.

When you're at the sweet spot, remove the allen key and reinsert it so it's pointing straight forward relative to the barrel (or close to it). Back the screw out 5 turns (IMPORTANT TO COUNT ACCURATELY) and apply a small dab of blue (temporary) loctite to the exposed screw threads. Spin the screw back in 5 turns to wipe the loctite into the grip plate thread and secure the set screw. You might have to spin the screw out more than 5 turns to expose any threads. Just don't go far enough to remove the screw, and keep track of how many turns you've pulled out.

Ideally you should measure motor current while backing the grip screw out. Evaluating tooth engagement with sound is pretty subjective and not particularly repeatable. I'm contemplating a circuit which can filter out the noise of an AEG motor so you can measure current with a low cost multimeter (not very noise tolerant) and properly adjust a grip screw. Not exactly huge appeal, but it's definitely in line with my company's namesake.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 02:14   #21
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Oop, forgot to mention:

Be sure to turn over the lower box such that the clear space (no teeth) on the sector gear is upwards before closing the receiver halves. If you engage a tooth on closure, you risk overdriving the piston which would have the sector gear skipping across the extra teeth when the piston runs out of matching teeth.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 11:49   #22
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I just broke down my M4 this morning, inspected it throughly, motor, lower gear box, everything was fine, I lubed it all, reset it, adjusted the motor screw just as you said to MadMax, that little metal protector place thing I put a little greese to it to hold it in place on top of the adjustment screw and shes working perfectly now, sounds better and works better after all new lubricant. Hopefully it will all stay tight for tomorow, if not Ill take the tools with me in case. But im sure it stay solid!

Thanks to Shakal and MadMax for the help guys. Good job!

See you tomorow at FR Max if your still planning on making an appearence.
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