~M140 spring V.2 gearbox?

[ILLusion]

You should be using a grease inside the cylinder... not oil.

What piston head are you using?

[ecsinc]

Area 1000 polycarb, the oil is 100% silicon oil for paintball guns. "marker oil"

The problem was with the hopup. I'm guessing the opening for the air nozzle is a little bit tigher and sometimes when the nozzle pushes in the hopup rubber it bends the rubber so theres a gap for air to excape. With the stock rubber it works perfect. I need to test it tomorrow if the stock rubber is too bad and doesn't have enough hop.

[ecsinc]

Finished product:



I would love to have a RIS and a harris bipod but I don't have the money or time to do so. Plus there's not much more things on my gun stock. Custon barrel extension, cut front sight, no carry handle, custom upper reciver rails, custom ring mount(scope offset left for easier eye/cheek rest), padded retractible stock, painted foregrips, not to mention 80% of the internals have been replaced.


Illusion, should I just sand the inside of the hopup rubber where the air nozzle fits so theres a wider opening?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ecsinc

Illusion, should I just sand the inside of the hopup rubber where the air nozzle fits so theres a wider opening?

Why do you need a wider opening?

[ecsinc]

The air nozzle I believe is hitting the edges of the hopup and isn't sliding through the hopup and thus bending the sides of the hopup and making a air hole. Thats what the loud noise is from and reduced range. I think...

[ILLusion]

Honestly, I can't recommend any solution like what you've proposed without seeing it for myself.

FYI, the air seal nozzle is *suppose* to push up against the hop up lips. It's not suppose to slide through completely. If you open up the lips even more... then you create that big gaping air loss hole that you're trying to prevent with your solution, no?

[ecsinc]

thats all i can think of being wrong. The hopup ya is a little bit thicker and stiffer so that can always be the problem but I wouldn't think so.
The stock rubber works great for the air seal but sucks in accuracy. What should I do to fix it?

[ILLusion]

to see if that's the problem, remove the hop up chamber/inner barrel assembly from your gun, drop a BB in the chamber, and through the end that the air nozzle sticks through, try to push the BB through with a pen or other small object. Note how much force is required to push it through. It shouldn't require much at all.

I've experienced really tough penetration with several "hard" type buckings, and the only solution I've found is to widen the hop up chamber walls that the hop up lip touches.

[ecsinc]

Thanks, I got it fixxed now. I just sanded a little of the lip on the hopup and it fits in there perfect now. Alot straighter and consistant, plus i barely have to have the hopup on compaired to the stock bucking where i had to have it on all the way.

So if I use .3g I won't lose range? It'll just fly slower but more accurate?

[ecsinc]

Hehe, http://www.geocities.com/chomesnow/DSCN0116.JPG

I guess 20 rounds with a M140 doesn't work... Oh well, I'm just using the stock piston now. Now before I put the M140 in, it seemed the M130 wore on the piston near the middle of the teeth, is the normal? Usually I wouldn't suspect wear to be in the middle of the piston...weird.

One other question: Is high torque gears also so that the gears spin alot slower and don't catch the first tooth of the piston after 1 shot is fired on semi auto? It almost looks like its catching after a shot because when it stops the air nozzle is back about half way, almost loading another round before I pull the trigger again. And I went back to the stock rubber, this new stuff didn't work at all, the stock works great..

.3's are amazing!

Thanks for the help guys. I've officially spent way to much money on my gun....

[ILLusion]

It looks like you're experiencing what's sometimes called "overdrive". It's also why I recommended you get torque up gears from the beginning to avoid this problem.

Yes, a small part of the reason you get torque up gears is to slow down the rotation speed.

But here's the more in-depth explanation on it:

When the motor is forced to crank a heavy spring using standard ratio gear set, a huge energy build-up is created in the motor through the gear train. This huge energy build-up requires a lot of energy to power the motor, and as a result, sucks a lot of current out of your battery. This is why power requirements are higher if you don't use a torque up gear set.

"Overdrive" occurs when the piston is released from the sector gear - with the massive build-up of energy created in the motor now released free, the gears spin at an excessive rate of revolution as the built-up energy is now released, which causes the first couple of teeth of the sector gear to crash in to the piston rack.

It's kind of like... a rotational motor & gear train's version of "dry-firing"... if backpressure is released or if the load is unrestricted, the released energy will crash against it's wall much harder.




As for your nozzle winding up part way, that's normal, however it will occur more when your system isn't balanced (ie power source, motor or gear train is inappropriate for the spring used.)