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December 9th, 2014, 11:48 | #1 |
What to upgrade my Classic Army Scar Sportline with
Hey I'm on a budget but I'd like to upgrade this guns internals. I'm looking for some simple upgrades to do myself this is my first time so go easy. Thanks
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December 9th, 2014, 12:16 | #2 |
Nobody can give you any advice unless you say what exactly you're trying to upgrade. Do you want in improve its range? Trigger response? Rate of fire? Ergonomics? How much are you willing to spend?
Unless you have a specific picture in mind of what you want to accomplish, you're better off just leaving it stock. Edit: I should also point out, 'on a budget' and 'upgrade' do not coexist easily. To get a noticeable improvement in virtually anything, you're going to see the costs rise pretty quickly because you're upgrading a whole system, rather than just dropping in one part.
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Airsoft is where expensive things go to die. Last edited by Bellerophon; December 9th, 2014 at 12:24.. |
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December 9th, 2014, 12:19 | #3 |
Definitely range accuracy and trigger responce and roughly $200 I'm not sure if that's enough i could put in more just over time
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December 9th, 2014, 12:44 | #4 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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lol that's EVERYTHING.
start with airseal upgrade first... cylinder head, piston head, sorbo, nozzle. It's relatively inexpensive, put in a better piston while you're at it. and see what the range/accuracy is like then. Better airseal means more consistent fps which means smaller groupings and less fliers. It makes the gun more predictable. If it's not shooting over 350, maybe upgrade to a 110 spring to make it shoot closer to 400. If you're doing all this yourself, don't change too much at once, or you'll just end up fucking something up and not knowing how to fix it.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
December 9th, 2014, 13:01 | #5 |
Sorry for the noob question but how do I know what parts are compatible ?
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December 9th, 2014, 13:11 | #6 |
There are different versions of gearbox, the SCAR uses a version 2 gearbox I think, which will be roughly compatible with parts from other V2 gearboxes.
I really don't want to discourage you, but if you're really new to AEG tech, you should learn how to fix a gun before trying to upgrade one. There is no magical list of parts that will guarantee a given result, if they're just dropped in without any understanding of how or why they work. I recommend leaving your SCAR stock for now, and buy a broken gun to practice taking apart and fixing. After learning the basic theory of how an AEG works (and making lots of mistakes along the way), then you can start thinking about upgrades.
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Airsoft is where expensive things go to die. |
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December 9th, 2014, 13:15 | #7 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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it's probably a clone of the G&G scar which has a slightly customized V2 to fit the selector... all scars are a bit tricky to take down and put back together mainly to do with their selectors. The gearbox is essentially the same across all v2s though. It wouldn't be my suggestion for a first gun to take apart/put back together.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
December 9th, 2014, 13:18 | #8 |
I had a broken AK that I have taken apart and fixed a few times it was relatively simple but I have not tried to take apart my scar just yet since it's still fairly new
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December 9th, 2014, 13:20 | #9 | |
Quote:
The sportline's internals aren't very good quality. The sector gear is made of cheap metal, so swapping the gears out for some SHS gears would be a good idea. I would DEFINITELY recommend checking YouTube on how to take apart your gun, since it can be VERY tricky getting the gearbox out AND putting it back in... I also recommend you familiarize yourself with all the DIY mods and improvements that you can do, like shimming, AOE correction, etc. before even starting. Lots of good stuff here: https://www.youtube.com/user/AirsoftingTutorials/videos SCAR disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x9ILkjj180 After you familiarize yourself with that - here's a sample parts list: Compression: Piston - SHS 15 metal tooth is good Piston head - Plastic or POM, not metal/aluminium (shs/lonex/modify) Cylinder head - something metal (lonex/shs/zci) Install a sorbothane pad to correct AOE and protect the gearbox SCAR nozzle - anything that has an o-ring inside (CORE/Lonex/Modify) Ver 2 Spring guide since the classic army one is plastic - get one that's metal and has bearings If you want to replace gears, a cheap option would be SHS gears. 13:1 or 16:1 are always a good choice and will help trigger response paired with an SHS high torque motor (long type). In terms of hopup, there are many good choices of rubbers to use. Lonex is a great alternative. For a barrel, a cheap option is the madbull black python 6.03mm (or ZCI 6.02 if you can find them). Once you get comfortable with your gun, and know how to solder, you can explore installing a mosfet. As stated in this thread by me and everyone else. Try to practice on another gun and really do your research. Just be smart about what you're doing and think it through. If you're confident, go for it! Definitely don't rush! Last edited by -Shade; December 9th, 2014 at 13:23.. |
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December 9th, 2014, 13:24 | #10 |
Sorry about all the non-answers I've been giving, but upgrading airsoft guns is an enormously complicated topic.
Here's two excellent guides, one on improving accuracy and the other on improving trigger response/rate of fire. Unfortunately, both are fairly advanced guides which presuppose you know the basics of how an AEG works.
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Airsoft is where expensive things go to die. |
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December 9th, 2014, 14:45 | #11 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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getting a gun working vs properly tuning a gun are 2 very very different beasts.
You can throw a set of gears into a gearbox and not even shim them with a plastic piston body and it will work. How long it will work for is the question. I believe my g36 is at about 30k rounds put through in 2 years without a single gearbox issue. I built an ak for someone and he puts about 10k rounds through it a week and it has no issues aside from the body pin he lost, lol. There's guys that still believe dry firing is bad for your gearbox, while I've sat there with my trigger held down full auto at 32rps with nothing in the gun to see how much the motor will heat up in extreme circumstances. I've seen guns put back together by guys who say they're good at working on guns break the very next game... but hey, it worked for half a day. There's a whole thread in the gundocs section about guys who tried to do it themselves and failed quite comically. Just take some time, read the forums at airsoftmechanics or some of the other big forums, even here, but asm has the least amount of tolerance for bullshit, snake oil practices. Just don't throw money and parts at a problem without understanding the problem first... that's the key to being a good tech. You can learn on any gun as long as you can be patient with it. Lots of guys get frustrated at taking it apart and putting it back together so often than they start to rush their process, which will lead to things going wrong.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. Last edited by lurkingknight; December 9th, 2014 at 14:47.. |
December 9th, 2014, 17:29 | #12 |
Thanks
Just wanted to say thanks to all you guys helping me out with my noob questions ill definitely take all your advice
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