Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMax
There is a thermodynamic effect which heats air when you compress it. If you rapidly compress air such that it does not have time to bleed heat to it's surroundings (rapid cylinder compression) the compression cycle is nearly adiabatic (unable to transfer heat to surroundings). It's this effect which is why one might use an intercooler after a supercharger in a car to cool air before it goes into the cylinders. If you want to dig deeper:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_compressor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adiabatic_process
You do not want to fully block the gearbox nozzle and shoot full auto. If you restrict the escape of air too much, you can prevent the piston from moving fully forward for the next sector pickup. This can clash the sector teeth with the piston if they don't mesh properly. By blocking the nozzle, you also restrict the intake of air to the cylinder which makes the motor work harder because it's sucking against a partial vacuum. If you have a ported piston head this wouldn't happen, but if you have a stock one you'll be making the piston pull against vacuum.
It is normal for AEG motors to get warm while firing. However you should inspect your sector gear and piston for damage. If the teeth are gnarled, your sector won't mesh efficiently and your motor has to work harder. |
Oh. Thanks for your help! I believe it was heating up because I was firing on full auto with my finger on the nozzle and my cylinder is not ported. So that adiabatic effect should be the reason why my nozzle was getting warm.
Also, thanks for telling me that the piston might not be able to go all the way forward if I cover up the nozzle. I didn't know that could happen. I believe that was the reason my gearbox started whining because it only started whining after like 10 shots on full auto.
This is my first AEG and I don't know too much about the gun except what parts are where and their functions. The reason why I decided to cover the nozzle was because I was told that dry firing too much can cause the gearbox and other components to crack. So I thought trapping the air would cushion the impact of the piston on the cylinder head. But now I know that doing that can cause the piston to not go forward fully.
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@DarkAngel. Tell me something I don't know already. About 100% of what you posted I already knew.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkAngel
No, Nothing touches the Nozzle. Nothing is connected to it xept for the tappet plate, but it does not cause friction, the only thing it rubs against is a brass tip of the cylinder head. Theres no reason why it should be warm, nor do I think its even possible.
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This doesn't even answer my question. My question was "Does anyone know why this is happening?" My question was not "What is connected or comes in contact with the nozzle?" Nor was my question "Should the nozzle be warm?" You can actually learn from my post as you say "nor do I think its even possible" because obviously, from my experience, it CAN get warm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkAngel
It shouldnt cause the gears to stop turning if you keep it pressed back. Its Spring loaded and keeping it pressed back just keeps it isolated from the gears, holding it out on the other hand will cause the tappet plate to snap or the gears to stop turning.
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Again, my question is "Does anyone know why this is happening?" My question was not "How do I break my tappet plate?" or "Will holding down my nozzle cause my gears to stop turning?" Everything posted above I already knew and did not help me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkAngel
You have resistance with your motor or wires. This is caused by strain on the motor, or your wiring gauge being too small.
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This post actually answered the question asked, but only part of it. You answered the part about the motor, but not the magwell or the battery. I know my wire guage is really small as nothing bigger than 20 AWG can fit in the pistol grip, but shouldn't the wire be heating up, not the engine.
My battery is hooked to 14 AWG wire and deans. No idea why that's heating up.
The magwell shouldn't be heating up. I thought it was because of the nozzle, but this time, I was not holding down the nozzle like I previously was. The adiabatic effect should not occur now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkAngel
That being said, stop doing shit to your gun that its not designed to do.
If you're purposely trying to break it or break it due to stupidity, were not going to readily help you.
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Then why do you try to help me? If you're going to have that crap attitude, don't help anyone. I'm trying to experiment with my gun because it's my first AEG. And why is it your concern whether I am trying to purposely break my gun or not. It's not your gun. It's my gun. I can get a new gun as easily as I can break my gun.