Lonex Motor Brushes
 

Is it normal for Lonex motors to burn through brushes really quickly? I've only had my A1 for a week and I've changed the brushes three times already. Every time the motor spins I see residue blowing off the brushes.

What keeps happening is due to poor connection, every other trigger pull my MERF 3.2 will enter programming mode, as it doesn't detect the motor being connected. Then I have to reset the MERF and the same thing happens again. If I change the brushes, the motor is set for another two hundred shots or so... Then the same thing happens again.

RoF has also dropped since the motor was new, I used to get 31 RPS and now it's dropped to 23-25 on a full charge, using a 11.1V 25C Li-Po.

lonex brushes are known to be soft, though all the brushes on my motors have been holding up after a season and a half, so I'm not sure what exactly is going on. in your case, something else could be happening, they wear out fast, but not as fast as a few hundred shots. It's not uncommon to see sparks from the brushes of any motor, but something is definitely sounding off with your situation.

As for the rof drop, it could be that it needs a cleaning where the brushes make contact.

Should have said something when they wore out the first time lol
Send pics, what do the brush ends look like?
Right now sounds like you need to get the comm turned

Might wanna use higher silver content brushes too. They wear less quickly and increase power, but wear the comm faster.

I'm having the same issues, except I probably have shot around 1000 rounds with it. I just started noticing it at the last game, also using MERF 3.2. Where do you get hold of replacement brushes?

Actually, you are better go to a slotcar-specific hobbyshop if you have one close.
They use the same size brushes.

Or you can order "racing" brushes for 1/18 scale vehicules. Most use 300-class motors that are the same diameter as our airsoft motors.

Good one

Maybe the active breaking is destroying it. Just a shot in the dark.

I didn't post at first because I thought it was easier to change the brushes and solve the problem. Turns out the problem isn't JUST the brushes. I actually got the brushes off of dead motors I had lying around, one set has survived 8 years on a EG700 and only 200 rounds on this Lonex.

How do I tune my comm? It probably is the commutator since I've gone through so many motor brushes.... The brushes honestly look fine, and would probably work no problem in another motor.

https://imageshack.com/scaled/large/69/txzg.jpg

By residue, I don't mean sparks. Every motor sparks. I'm talking about a small plume of black, and looks like this shit.

https://imageshack.com/scaled/large/545/k8ko.jpg

Lonex QC is really beginning to frustrate me, every stress component I've gotten from Lonex has been a lemon, two defective gear sets and this motor.

Question off topic, is a G&P M140 motor comparable to the Lonex A1? Cost is very similar and I have one lying around, so if it's similar I'd probably be better off sticking that in my gun so I can game it this weekend.

neodymium magnets vs ferrous magnets... the lonex will have more torque and more power efficency.

however... you can use any motor brushes in the lonex motor so you can scavenge brushes from a junk motor.

Also make sure your AB is off... though I don't think that substantially increases wear on the brushes but you never know. I cooked an armature maybe due to active braking but not the brushes.

Is the G&P a ferrous motor? That was basically my question.
I have been using brushes from CA and Marui motors lying around, and although they were fine for years on their original motors they didn't last long at all on the Lonex. Brushes that lasted 8 years on my EG700 are now cooking off 1mm every couple hundred rounds... I also doubt it has to do with AB, I've been using this MOSFET with other motors and it's never been an issue. I also don't know how to turn off AB on a MERF3.2.

M140 is ferrous, M160+ is neo

And you'll need a comm lathe, or just take it to a RC hobbyshop.
The benefit of getting the comm turned and motor tuned is it will invariably draw less amperage than any other lonex A1 motor.

Also, active braking isn't nearly THAT hard on brushes, everything that happens during normal use, happens during AB. Braking the motor is the same kind of force as starting the motor. What it's hard on is electrical, draws more amperage and creates more heat. Your motor is essentially doing two starts for every semi auto shot.

Will that fix my issue of burning out brushes so damn quickly though? That's the thing I want to get fixed first.

EDIT: I get what you mean now, I'll probably just change motors first so I can use my gun this weekend and worry about lathing this motor later.

Excessive brush wear is caused by;
overload
high temps
contamination
wrong type of brush
silicone fumes (believe it or not, silicone apparently causes accelerated wear)
and spring pressure

Most likely for airsoft motors is spring pressure and bad comms. If you take it to someone who knows what they're doing, they should be able to fix all that.
Although it COULD be the brushes aren't meant to handle the current you're putting through them, but if there's clouds of graphite coming off when you run the motor, then I'd say it's springs or comm.