The "joys" (aka. trials) of being a gun doctor!
 

Ok, this is an anti-solution I'm posting here.

Just started working on a TM M4A1 that a team mate purchased cheap in non-working condition. No problem, he's buying parts for it and I can fix it no problem.

Here's the joy I encountered so far. In trying to get the mechbox out, I take the motor out and start unscrewing the grip to mechbox screws. Hmm, ok, they were loose. Kept unscrewing, never came out. Try to pull the grip off, it won't budge even a half millimeter. Take a look around the edge of the grip that meets up with the lower receiver, the freaking thing has been Krazy glue'd in place!!! Took a good hour of slicing and prying to get the grip off and the mechbox out. After the previous owner either tried to upgrade it or his "doctor" did, the screw's threads in the mechbox that hold the grip on stripped, grip was obviously loose, so he used a pile of instant glue on the mechbox, inside of the grip and lower receiver to "fix" the problem. NEVER DO THIS (pointing at noobs)!!!!! Luckily the new owner is buying a new grip and metal body, but still, is gonna be a bitch to get the stock nylon bevel gear bushings out of it's holes, and have to tap new threads in the mechbox to mount the new grip. Also have to take a chisel to the mechbox to strip away a large area of glue to clean it up.

Anyone else have "anti-solutions" they've experienced? I thought this funny, yet pathetic, enough to post on here. I've had other oddities on my bench before, but this is a new one I never would have even thought of!

Even to me Crazy Glue just seems like a bad idea considering it tends to find its way everywhere.

And how did you learn gun doctoring ? I'm wondering because it might be good to know for when i get a gun. ( that and i've always treated my stuff well and always like to know how to treat/fix problems)

The worst ones I've seen were from 6mm Imports... springs so strong they've been cut so they're barely long enough to keep the piston at battery, shims thrown in at random, shims completely ignored, many feet of wire clumped in the foregrip, then going outside the gun to a battery bag attached to the stock...

And hey, I've got my motor plate temporarily JB-Welded to the grip until I fix the screw holes. It's fine as long as it's in a spot that'll be easy to remove.

first big mistake i made was with my TM SR-16. the rear body pin kept falling out, so i put a drop of crazy glue on it, hoping it would hold it to the body.
when i needed to take it apart, i punched the tab (with a punch) and it came out. unfourtunatly the left body tab and been glued to the lower body. i tried to get it apart with out breaking it, but the left tab got broken.

the other thing i did was some how striped the mechbox threads for the screws that hold the grip on (like stalker said). i tried to find longer, but similar screws in my dads jars and stuff. i found some longer similar ones and jamed them in there. it works now. i think the mech box was soft enough that i cut new threads. 8O

Pretty much expereince and learning how things are supposed to work in relation to each other, then dealing with all kinds of issues that'd make a gun not work. Gets more interesting when dealing with other people's work (as inmy thread) but also when dealing with lots of different upgraded parts (like finding the new piston doesn't fit the rails of the reineforced mechbox, have to shave plastic from inside the grooves on the pistons to keep it from jamming up). That sort of thing. Learn the basics, then it's all about fine tuning and troubleshooting from there.

Only good place I've seen Krazy Glue work well is to glue the motor adjustment disk on a V2 mechbox to the backside of the motor, it's pointless to have that disk floating around, and since it LOVES to run off when you aren't expecting it to............ glue it and forget about it.

hehe, thats pretty much how i learned.
i read a few guids and then took my mech box apart.
the school of hard knocks has alot of fun with my i think.

Sometimes the best way to learn is from frustration!

if you need some type of glue thats less than perminet try clear nail polish not crazy glue its cheap thread locker

lock tight red very strong break it or cut it out
" " blue temp hold can be removed
" " yellow electrical (nail polish is better)
" " orange resistant to oil
" " Black same as red but works if there is still oil present

Jb weld Ok the stuff is vodo Magic but its still not a great fix

Bottom line know what your about to do and remember that it works today but you may still want to take it apart again some day when it doesn't any more

The worst moment I had with a friends V2 mechbox in his TM MP5 SD5 was when his tappet plate broke due to him unscrewing the mech box screws and not knowing what to expect when prying on it. I ended up melting it back together with a butane soldiering gun I have just so he could play the next day. It worked great for a week until he got the new Guarder one in and we still couldn't brake the solidered one. We sanded it and it looks new. Actually done this twice to be honest. Just don't want to be the laughing stock of the boards.

Don't put a Area 1000 Systema tappet in a TM V2 mechbox

I recently worked on an AUG where the mechbox was held in by a saw blade wrapped in electrical tape and the mechbox wiring was hot glued together!

I once took apart a jammed gearbox and found a mangled shim jammed between the sector and step gear. The stalled configuration resulted in a damaged step and sector gear and a stripped bevel gear. 3 gears, 1 loose shim...

I've taken apart leaky mags and found a desperation attempt to fix with window caulking. The telltale smell of vinegar and uncured clear goo. Caulking relies in evaporative curing so it's not suitable between impermeable mag walls. The schmoo had gotten everywhere in the mag and even contaminated the fire valve.

Lol, best thing I've found to fix leaking GBB mags is the blue Automotive Gasket Sealer from Canadian Tire. I've fixed a good half dozen gas mags with the stuff, works like a charm.................. if you let it cure overnight before putting gas in! Made the mistake of putting gas in it a few hours after I did the fix on the last mag I did a couple months ago. Few weeks later my G19 was getting clear gummy crap on the inside of the slide, top of the mag, etc. Clean it all out, still getting problems with it shooting properly. A few replacement parts (and hours) from my parts gun, stil just not working right, so I decided to swab the barrel since GBBs love a clean barrel. Whaddaya know, there is a bunch of clear rubbery shit inside the barrel too! Frack! Swabs with lighter fluid clears it all out, quick soapy wash and oiling again, not only did it work for two mags worth (of gas) again, it was crazy accurate, best group l got was about 2" x 4" at 30ft!

Oh yeah Stalker, I'm pretty sure theres some speaker wire in the handguard of the HK417 of mine you have. Wasn't me, got it that way.

I'm no gun doctor but got an MP5k used that wasn't working. Took the handguard off and someone had, instead of soldering the wire, taken a copper bar, drilled holes in both ends, and wrapped each piece of wire around one hole. Bandaided wiring job with no soldering required. Also found out the fuse holder had been glued together with no fuse in it, just to complete the connection (guess they couldn't find a fuse.) The exposed fuse holder and the copper bar would touch sometimes and there was charring on both.

LMFAO!

Had a CA M4 that wasn't firing; Naturally went to disconnect the fuse and Tamiya connecter via the quick connectors for the front wiring so I can pull the wiring through the receiver and remove the gearbox. Unfortunately the person who worked on it last decided to cover the connectors in half a roll of electrical tape each, and underneath that the connectors were glued together.

Was that an attempt to make it waterproof?

I haven't really seen much in the way of crazy crap in mechboxes, but I do know a guy who made an entire tac vest out of nothing but duct tape. True story.

did it look good ?

Looked like a tac vest made of duct tape. Silver and sticky looking.

On the plus side though, with a thousand dollars you couldn't make a piece of gear that fit better or had the pouches positioned so perfectly. He might start a trend. Make tactical silver into the new tactical black.

Hmm there are black and camo coloured duct tapes out there. This could be the start of a new trend.

Don't forget to add the red and green suspenders. :D

Stylin and cost effective.

A team mate reciently gave me a gun to work on for him (he actualy aquired it from ASC). I found three different types of wire from mechbox to buttstock. I believe they were in this order. High temp kitchen stove TEW, Speaker wire and something that could only be described as a power cord to a 1970's telephone. Also the "Gun doctor's" (using that term very loosely...very), idea of a home made sorbo pad was something of a failed abortion.

Ah yes, this thread! Necro is fine, I bet there are many more new stories others have now they can revive this facepalm thread with. :)

There's a very good reason why I send away for any work my gun needs. Every time I try to do something myself I break it.

Case in point: My crosman shotgun and one of my AK mags. I thought it would be a good idea to open up the shotgun, to see how it worked. Problem is, there's one part that's held in place by the side. When I took the body off, little piece drops into oblivion and I have a shotgun that now only fires out of 1 of 3 available barrels. :(

The AK mag I just used WD-40 to lube, which apparently corrodes plastics. Not using that mag until I can confirm with you guys, but suffice to say I'm off to a great start in learning the inner workings of airsoft guns. :D

I have started to do some work on my guns. I have shaved out two pistol grips to fit my scar and m4. Wreck one which caused 50 bucks. Also found that my new m4 pistol grip screw hole on the gearbox is stripped. Had to use some pc screws that was longer with some loctite blue to make sure it doesnt vibrate off.

I summoned the dead on this one :D lol. I was picking through it earlier and realized I had a good one to share, so share I did.

Is all good, better than getting raped about starting a "repost thread".

Thats one thing that gets me about this ASC place, a new (or old player) gets flamed for asking a an age old question and all replies are "Search it, we don't spoon feed around here", yet when an old thread is brought back from the depths (maybe a search was done, a thread found but inquiry not answered, or new info is provided in said thread), the new person gets flamed for "necroing" an old post. Obviously a search was done, so what's the big deal?

Honestly, I've been here since 2003 and it all still baffles me, most things info-wise are a catch 22. Damned if you did, damned if you didn't. :-?

Using Outdoor Window Sealant is not a form of waterproofing your gearbox.

Using Perma Threadlock on mechbox screws

Masking Tape is not an acceptable replacement for Wire Shielding

Filling your Inner Barrel with Mud and letting it harden inside its pretty stupid.

Keep your lipo's plugged in and constantly draining with LED's and shit so when your gundoc gets it, it becomes unstable and combusts. We love that shit.

I dont mind necroing as long as the newest post has something to do with the actual topic and has relevancy.
but most of the necros i've seen fall under "lol, dude thats epic, etc..." which is useless, when more useful topics get bumped down

as for gun doc moments.
deans connectors put on backwards 2x the battery ones on the gun, and the polarity reversed
(i am by no means a gundoc either just something that happened)

Some people do that on purpose so others dont steal their batteries. Personally it doesnt bug so much as I ask them to provide their own battery and mag with their guns.

Well there is an issue with the male deans on the battery though as it's too easy to short. Follows with fires or exploding lipos....

Agreed.

Someone wanted me to change their deans connection on their gun to mini.

I agreed. Then sighed heavily. A few times.

Ive done this.... with great protest.

But end of the day, its their gun.

Fixing my first AEG at a field: the motor tab had fatigued off from vibration. It was the first time I ever got to field that gun, but I was lucky to have brought a toolbox with me which had my microtorch and some solder. I carefully soldered the terminal back on (tough to not overheat with a torch) and started on closing things up. I thought I was pretty clever until I noticed that the grip was behind the motor terminal while I was heating it and I scortched a pretty deep blastmark in it. Note to self: when focusing on fixing one area with a torch look behind the thing you're working on and see what else might be in the line of fire (literally).

I still got to keep playing at least.

I hated fixing anything that first went to good gun docs. I used to get all the poltergeist GBBs after good guys like Gump had struggled with them. I often was able to figure things out (eventually), but the issues almost always had two or more things wrong which presents some strange symptoms that often look like something else.

Never ever use thread locker blue on a KJW lower..
It disolves the plastic... At least I go the new lower at cost :)

I've only had my weapon a few days...

Thing pretty much just farted BB's out once in awhile, and on top of that, it was only every third or forth trigger pull...

As I've come to realize... It's either one of two issues...

Bucking, which fell apart when I breathed on it.
Or a mag issue...

The bucking seems to be the problem because it was really REALLY mangled... The mag could also be an issue, but I've yet to even prove my theory.

Knowing my love of expensive toys (avionics tech up in Trenton $250 million dollar toy to tinker with) I decided to try and fix the problem myself...

You lads... are life savers...

All the tips, tricks, and FM (f$cking magic) you guys posses helped me figure out the problem(s) pretty quickly... It's not rocket science, but there is a knack to being able to see a problem, troubleshoot it quickly, and on top of that... actually repair it.

So thanks.

I love the things I've seen. Like guys using any type of silicone spray on their stuff. You need to read on it if it is Oring safe. Any spray that has rubber safe still has solvent in it and will wear down your plastic and hop ups.

You think that is bad? Well how about people that like to dump silicone oil in their guns to lube it. I have bought many a gun where the owners lubbed their guns up by dumping silicone oil into the trigger parts. What a mess it is to clean up!

Or how about when people try to improvise by using a sharpie to touch up paint ware. If your going to touch up paint ware, at least invest in a 5 dollar bottle of gun blue!

I had a client who had his mechbox stuck in his lower receiver. After a little bit of poking around I managed to get the mechbox out with light taps on a flat head screwdriver with a hammer.

Turns out the Owner opened up the mechbox and in the process of closing her up didn't tighten every screw. Because the screw was sticking out the mechbox wouldn't go into the receiver. The gun owner thought it was a good ideal to use a hammer instead of looking for anything out of the ordinary.

Long story short Screw head was bent and caused the mechbox to get stuck.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...er/mechbox.jpg

Hopefully I'll get more guns for this gun so I can get good at gundoc work.



One Client had me move a pin on a Type 89 gear from one side to the other. All the did was tap it with a Flat-head Screwdriver and hammer. Easiest gundoc job I've done thus far.

Another client I have initially thought soldering was twisting two wires together and using heat-shrink tubing to seal the connection. He is also impervious to my attempts to teach him to solder.


The Soviet optic plate on my RPK is held on by PL premium. The aluminium was too soft for the screws and my Massive Fuckoff nightvision scope was yanking the screws out of the receiver. The Rail is now on tight and I can even cary the whole gun around by using the scope as a carry handle. Mark me impressed with PL Premium construction glue.

Hammers sometimes solve problems, but a lot of times they don't. And airsoft guns are fairly fragile.

lol... pl premium... there's probably a reason mike holmes likes that shit.

If you're in need of redoing your wires or just to upgrade them, please don't attempt it if you don't know or have any knowledge how to do it. Finding shit like this is really concerning and it can cause a serious problem for the user. This gun was brought in for repairs as the client complained that the wires got really hot and smoke was coming out near the connector. The mess you see here was done by the previous owner trying to extend the wires. Not only was it not soldered together, they were taped "TOGETHER". So both exposed leads were taped together causing a short. And the fuse that was installed was pretty useless as it came after the mess. So you can see the the ends were just "hooked" together then electrical taped. If the new owner were to use a lipo and continued to try and make it work, the battery could have swelled up and release flames and smoke everywhere. So a fair warning to everyone, if you see electrical tape on your guns or battery, confirm that the connection was done correctly and that all the exposed wires are soldered and shrink tubed. Electrical tape shouldn't be a permanent fix for wires, but only to keep wires together that aren't exposed. Do it correctly or bring it to a qualified person that knows how to do it.
http://imageshack.us/a/img577/5307/wiringfup1.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img16/8914/wiringfup2.jpg

oh my.

That made me cringe in fear. I've not done much work on my guns, largely owing to having next to zero technical skills, but even I can see why that might be a problem. That scared me enough to dissuade me from trying to rewire one of my (broken) guns.

This came across the bench:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...120_201707.jpg

This, kids, is what happens to polycarb pistons and hot springs. Yes the metal rack is BENT. Siegetek gears walked away unscathed.

* Stormtech polycarb piston
* M160 spring

wait.. WAT.


Did that shear the FRONT of the piston off?

Sure looks like it. I have seen that a couple of times now. Both were from the 427fps for import days.

Cheap Chinese piston + high fps spring = FAIL

Yeah the front of the piston was buried at the cylinder head along with the piston head, which also exploded.

I'll probably put a Lonex piston head and an SHS 15T piston in there.

I stripped the screws on one of my ICS upper gearboxes. There's now a bunch of dirt and sand in it and there's nothing I can do.

You can drill and re-tap it.

this is a pretty good visual on why polycarb is not a good piston material.

Bounce crap off the face of it and it will do it all day.. but as soon as you push, pull and twist along the length of it...

Man. I remember buying a TM MP5A4 years back. The previous owner sold it for cheap, and claimed he had been gaming it on lipo.

So, Bought it, Got it, Opened it and wanted to run a battery through it. And what do I find?

The guy had 3 different sizes of wiring on this, and instead of solder, shrinkwrap and whatever... He had literally stripped two inches off of each end of the wires, tied them together in a knot, and taped them together tight.

Just to think this guy was running it on lipo..

I have been soldering a lot, but I still made a mistake one day, when I was changing a new gun/battery set to deans. I was not paying enough attention and I put the male dean connector on the battery. So glad I found it right after, and no short circuit was happened.

when I first started converting batteries to deans, the first battery was a 9.6v nimh... I cut both the wires from the plug at the same time.

scared the crap out of me when they touched and shorted. Could not have imagined what that would've been like with a 7.4 or 11.1.... good lesson in only doing 1 wire at a time from then on.

And a reason why you don't trust crappy china chargers? My first experience with 18650 batteries, the charger started smoking when I went to charge the cells up. Pitched the charger and the cells into the trash and picked up disposable cr123s.

Haha, I've done the exact same thing before without thinking.

I can't really complain about the guns I've worked on since they're mostly my own. However, in the learning process I have done some pretty bad temporary wiring that was gamed far longer than it should've been.

The worst gun I've worked on that wasn't mine was a "custom" pdw that had about 15 noticeable things wrong with it including a lack of hop-up nub...

sounds like the p90 I bought... no nub, didn't feed properly, gearbox was a freaking mess. ended up being the best and worst gun I've bought to date. Now that it's working I love it, but the time and money I invested into it to even try and begin to figure out what was wrong with it is what I hate about it. I'll never get any of that back. :/

Psh, just throw a new piston head on there, good as new!

Was the rack epoxied to the piston? I find that the new Chinese pistons have fairly soft steel racks too.

This nice surprise swung by recently...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...129_175337.jpg

This is what happens when you don't ensure that your bushings/bearings are flush against the mechbox.

and thats why I epoxy them to the gearbox shell :P

I hate buying used guns from kids now. Im talking newbies that are around the 18 age and have had their first attempt to upgrade a gun. Why oh why do people feel the need to throw a whole tube of lube into the guts of their guns? And why do they think sanding a barrel can be done with needle files? Havent they heard of sandpaper and paint stripper. Gahhh its annoying, but all part of the fun of working on guns.

How about a gun so lubed up that it actually shoots spitwads of superlube with the bb's (No Joke it actually happen)

You can't pull a Pawnstars on them and just totally devalue the gun because of an improper upgrade job and stuff that needs fixing? ("Well that's not original, that devalues the worth of this", or "That's broken that devalues the worth of this", etc.)

But I guess then you have to deal with fixing stuff and spending hours and hours on that.

the problem with most used guns right now is that they are overvalued for what you're getting. It's a buyer's market due to the dropped prices last year, anyone selling used for even half of what they paid prior to the price drops are still having hard times selling. Even a bone stock gun in a package deal, never mind upgraded or had a problem, tried to fix it, deal.

why buy someone else's problem when you can buy new for a little bit more? Would you buy a 3 year old car at 15k or a brand new car at 17k?

Giant +1 BTW Has anyone attempted a troubleshooting flow chart? I can picture it
Guns makes no noise when trigger pulled -check fuse -try known charged good battery -check motor connectors - with battery connected and trigger pulled does current arrive at motor connectors etc

I had a similar experiance, but not quite as bad, I had made a trade for a gun, in working condition but I wanted to try and put a new body on the gun.

I found that the base plate for the motor grip was glued on, making that pistol grip useless when I took it off.

And... I found out that the gun had no nubbin inside the hop up unit...

This gem came across my bench today.
I can't even tell what colour the piston was originally.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psafda57b5.jpg

http://mlkshk.com/r/21O

And the blue tape. Why?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps82d0bbc8.jpg

i think thats got a lil too much lube on it, id imagine the hop up wasnt doin a damn thing either.
some peoples children

ok thats gooey.
this by far is the ugliest thing i have ever dealt with.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps080272b0.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb6bd3d1f.jpg

WAT.

i lol'd.

Holy F*!!! that's messed up. Why would someone do such a thing? Feel sorry for you Scooter.

that poor lonex motor.

I made a mess when I was 8, soldering for the first time, and no adult help.
Still not nearly as bad as that.

ya took a while to get hte solder out of the Spring coils but i did it and still works.. far as i know :)

Not lonex, stock or the like. THANK GOD

I remember when I had my first M4 GBBR last year. I was trying to install my new Magpul trigger guard. Started punching out one of the pins out ... CLINK !

The lower body right underneath the trigger chipped off with the pin still in it. That's when I realised the pins were one-way pins.

OH GOD WHY ...

Do you have a desoldering pump or silimar tools? If not then getting the solder out would be a pain...

Looks to me like a g&g motor

na it was heat it up and remove from motor with needle nose pliers.
heat the spring with soldering tool and tap pliers agianst hard surface.
repeat.... till all the solders gone..
the motor was easier LOL

ok this is a new one to me..
we have all seen various axle damage, but how about this
note the "difference" in the axle Width
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1ccdba0e.jpg

note the NUMBER of missing teeth
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2a1e899a.jpg

note the AMOUNT of material on the shell
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps684a2309.jpg

Note the UNUSUAL shape of the bevel and spur gear lower bearings
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps95098224.jpg

note the LACK of the molded rings on the shell that is supposed to be around the spur and bevel gear bushings
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0a25e10e.jpg

Note the ONLY tooth i found in the box (its above the piston rails)
and the factory seal was intact..
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps3867cb24.jpg

aperantly it was dry fired ALOT, but that much damage??
Discuss.

Are those grooved steel bushings?

they look alot like modify dual oil channel bushings.

That's caused by bad shimming and having to turning up the motor height to compensate for it. Basically the bevel gear sat too high and so the motor had to be turned all the way up to engage the teeth, but it also pushed the gear up and out of place. Over time like this, the side pressure not only chewed up the axle but elongated the bushings. That's why you can see that the elongated bushings is inline where the motor is going up. I always tell people that you need to check the shimming when a new motor is installed, as not every motor are the same dimension. Everyone needs to recheck their shimming every time you change the pistol grip or motor cage, motor, gears, bushings/bearings and gearbox shell.

M170 spring + Siegeteks + VFC Stock ARL

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps67e6075a.jpg

i have a set of new SRC bushings and they do have grooved oil channels.
so they are stock.

dry firing does nothing.

rebar Thompson fix- bet it doesn't break there again

Hi... Can I get your premission to post these 6 pictures on a Chinese forum as a example of "that's why you should always be careful and always check for proper shimming"? Thanks!

yes that will be fine.

Thanks a lot. :D

some test firing of my g36 before game season starts... and this happened.



http://dreamers-ink.ca/airsoft/boom.jpg

http://dreamers-ink.ca/airsoft/grind.jpg

fired about 500 rounds full speed in all... probably another 1000 rounds at half speed.

CA 7mm bearings. Will be ordering up some bushings now. :D

and maybe a new set of gears. The SHS 13:1s are still in good shape... the spur on the fat side is a bit polished for obvious reasons... it ate away at the gearbox more than the gear. Some grinding occurred at the extreme sides of the teeth... so my spur and sector are a fraction more helical than straight cut now. :D

I didn't even lay into the trigger when it went... just pulled it sounded like the motor height came undone... I pulled once more to verify, no more cycle. And that was that. Pretty obvious what happened once the gearbox came out. :D

So I know this is mostly dedicated to an AEG gun doc but....

I was sent an M4 to look after. Took it apart.

....and look at what I found!!!

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...s59629739.jpeg

This was a build up of "lube gunk". The owner complained that it no longer fired and would vent gas on the first pull of the trigger.

I surmise that because of the cold gas venting from the magazine, it completely froze the gunk up and made it super hard.....

This is what happens when you don't take care of business like you should, fellahs.

The gunk was soooooo thick and hard that it didn't return the bolt all the way such that the loading muzzle and gas route packing on the magazine didn't line up. Ergo, all the vented gas.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...s736ec811.jpeg

Look at how thick the fucker is!!!
That's one helluva lot of lube....
I had to mildly heat the muzzle up just to get it off because it was soooo compacted in there good and tight that it refused to be scraped off.

Frack!!!!!

This is the side effects:

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...s96bca2ce.jpeg

notice how much of the bolt was still sticking into the buffer tube. This prevented me from properly taking the upper and lower receiver apart. I had to undo the front pin and completely separate the two halves just to get the damn bolt out....

I don't know what the hell kind of lube this guy was using but...WTFBBQ!?

Also, why the hell would this be all over the loading muzzle anyways!???

Anyways, problem solved. Gimmie my $50 fee....
...or a carton of Belmonts. Large Kings.

I'm surprised a couple of strikes of the F/A wouldn't get it to seat forward enough to open up.

The gunk hardened so much. It felt like hard rubber after.
It was "packed" in there when the muzzle slams into the hop up chamber. I guess repetition made it so well packed that the bolt no longer returned to battery.

That was as far as the bolt went...

Firing out of battery! Lol.

And that's why you don't use bearings.