DIY - Fix leaking GBB mags. (with pictures - 56k beware!)
 

After reading about CDN_Stalker fixing some GBB mags I did a few of mine and then did about 10+ for Duckman. All seem to be holding fine and operate normally without the previous leaking issues.

The thread is for Silverthorn as I mentioned in his thread how to do it. Well I'm finally posting it for you bro!! :D

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Well, it's super easy to do. This will only work if it is the main seal that is the issue.

All you need are some basic tools and a tube of Blue Gasket Maker from Canadian Tire which can be had for about $6-7.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7064.jpg

*Note that I stuck an old zip tie in the extension tube. when it dries, the material can easily be pulled out and then you don't loose your nice nozzle/tip.

***DISCLAIMER***
Since the second batch of mags I had to work on are primarily KSC socom mags (heavyweight), I managed to set up my camera to take these pictures. This DIY will work with other mags but I will not guarantee 100% effectiveness as all mags are similar but will have their obvious differences. I have done the same procedure for a WE p14, Maruzen p99 and a WA cougar. It also will work for the TM MK23 Socom mags but I would suggest removing the safety valve, JB weld the hold and then follow the procedure below.


KSC MK23 Socom mags:

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7069.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7071.jpg

1. First off vent out all the gas in the mag then disassemble it by pressing the inner ring and sliding the bottom plate off. Beware that there is a spring inside that will likely fly off (not typical for all mags)

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7073.jpg

2. Punch out the pins (some mags are held on with a Phillips screw)

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7075.jpg

3. Remove the bottom piece (can't think of what it might be called) You might need a pair of pliers or a flat head to coax it out.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7076.jpg

4. Carefully remove and inspect the main seal. It should be intact. If you haven't tried giving it a silly oil bath try this now as that can solve the problem in most cases. Oddly, the socom seals blew up to about 4-5mm bigger than what would fit so a silly bath wouldn't work. Fortunately, after drying them and letting them sit, they regained their shape and size. My method is to reuse the original piece so if it is damaged, I am uncertain as to how well this fix is.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7079.jpg

5. Clean all areas to remove any remains of silly oil and grim that has accumulated over the years. Duckman happened to dump a ton of oil in some of his mags trying to bring the main seal back to life. Oil everywhere including my bedroom floor!

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7079.jpg

6. Run a bead of the Blue Gasket Maker around the spot where the main seal sat. Clearly, it doesn't have to look pretty.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7083.jpg

7. Reinstall the main seal. Let the gasket maker squish out. Just clean up any excessive amount with a piece of cardboard, toothpick or something. Be creative. Then run another bead of it on top of the seal. I messed up a bit on that pic as it should be more on the side so that it contacts the side of the mag more.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7085.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7087.jpg

8. Inspect the inside of the mag and clean it of any oils as well.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7088.jpg

9. Run a small bead of the gasket maker around the lip. I try to place the bead in such a way that when the bottom piece is inserted that not too much finds it's way into the main reservoir.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7089.jpg

10. Reinsert the bottom piece. You may find that it won't go all the way in. Press the flow valve button. You can sometimes create a little bit of pressure inside which is a good sign. I also use a hammer to tap it into place.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7094.jpg

11. Reinsert retaining pins.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7096.jpg

12. You're almost done.

DO NOT PRESSURIZE YOUR MAGS AT THIS POINT! YOU MUST LET THEM CURE FOR 24 HOURS!

This is where I differ a bit from CDN_Stalker. I will give my mags less than a 1/2 second burst of gas. I feel that this helps indicate if you got a leak still before it cures. But, if you get too much inside, it will vaporizer and become a huge mess when you shoot your gun. Once cured, gas it up and fully vent your mag, all at once, outside of your gun. Do not insert into a gun until you've done this at least once. I fully gas them up and vent them twice to ensure there are no little bits floating around. I will do it a third or forth time if stuff comes out.

13. Now you're done. Gas and load them up and go shoot some friends!


Here are some pictures of the same job on the p99 and cougar mags:

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7097.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7098.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7099.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7104.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/IMGP7113.jpg


If people still don't want to do this themselves, I guess I could do it for like $10. You'd have to pay return shipping so consider the cost before PM'ing me requesting for GBB mag repairs! :D Locals are more than welcome to ask though.

So once everything is cured, the floorplate is basically "glued" into the mag? Or does that stuff separate easily?

essentially yes. it's basically a soft silicon so you can pull it apart if required for further maintenance. It just may take a little effort. I would guess you can also remove the flow/output valve on some mags and insert a probe to assist pushing it out. but considering how it cured in the nozzle/tip, it's fairly easy to remove. it pretty much fills all the gaps where gas can leak out.

The mags that I have repaired were chronic leakers and were pretty much sitting for the past couple years.

My own special DIY!

Thanks a bunch Coachster for the great work. I eagerly await testing it on my mags. Hope it helps a lot of other players too. Thanks again!

I might be a little slow getting stuff done, but I'll get it done.....eventually!
hahaha
best of luck with your fix.

Just the right info I was looking for. I have a few mags that are leaking, and I could not come up with any idea's until I read this. Strongly suggest this made into an "Sticky"
great post
cheers

I have done this with good results to about 4 GBB mags. Remember to clean it before you apply the gasket sealer. Also, while everything is a part, it's a great time to just give everything a wash/wipe down. A lot of crap accumulates in the mags after a while.

Simply unbelievable...

After doing this work to my Glock 17 mags (brand is "Booming", some renaming of a brand, I don't know which one) I managed to shoot 50+ BBs from a single fill-up. I used to have a hard time shooting more then 20 BBs even with the mags new out of box.

Thanks a lot Coachster!

Premium, going to try this on mah GBB now!
Thanks comrade.

NP. Glad it worked.

Just one word of warning. Be careful of how much you fill your mags. Just because they don't leak, high pressure can still possibly blow a valve. Just don't over fill your mags or allow them to bake in the sun too long.

Thanks for the great DIY! I'm just starting out in GBBs and have been searching for a thread just like this! On a side note, do you have any recomendations on those dreaded tanaka mags? Is there is any hope for them?

never opened one so I couldn't say. break one open and post a pic?

Wow, gonna have to try this

Thanks for the tutorial

Great how-to guide! (Maybe this should be in the how-to section...it was a lonely last time I checked =P)
I will definitely give this a try the next time my leaky mag acts up again since the oil bath/teflon tape way doesn't seem permanent.

just dont lose those tubes of gasket guys. we're still watching for endurance tests yet. though so far so good.

Real easy way to pop the plates off once their sealed is to take out the pins... And gas it up :)

true. that could work very well indeed but it could possibly lead to a second mortar incident. :D at least it's not a 40mm nade, full of bb's, gassed and cooked to 900psi right Duckman? bwahahaha!

nonono...the nades werent cooking. the 20oz tank was cooked to that when i filled the nades

Good job Coachster, real useful thread for the community.

One way I (accidentally, I didn't empty all the gas) found works to get the base out of the mag is to empty the mag of gas, put a little spurt of gas in the mag, then push the pins out. The base will pop out (put thumb over the top of it, it may pop out halfway, or more) allowing you to remove it easily. And as was asked, the seal is a medium soft silicon rubber so there shouldn't be any problem with breaking that seal to get the base off again.

Hehe, just saw Amos post about gassing the mag up to get the base out, I didn't read page 2.

Thanks for that tip, I was wondering how the hell I would pop the base plate off the damn thing.

Was funny, I figured out a way (before I found out about the gas pressure popping trick) to get the plate off, will end up working well if the mag base plate is stuck on to the point the gas trick won't work. Remove the fill valve, and use a drywall expansion plug. I forget the colour, is the medium or large size, but they are the plastic plugs you use to hang a picture or mount a coat rack to a wall (drill the hole, hammer in the plug, tightening the screw causes the two halves to expand, firmly holding the plug into the wall). Anyways, use one of those, put in fill valve hole, tighten screw a bit to expand the plug, then remove the base. Remove the screw and pull the plug out after.

Incidentally, the big yellow ones work perfectly to remove those tubular locks that cable companies use to block off the cable connection in the cable boxes for TV signals. I only know this because I worked for Rogers for a bit, and if I didn't have the unlocking tool handy, I'd use the expansion plug to grip the inner core to unscrew it. Hence my getting the idea for removing the mag base. :D

Great post,

Just finished doing mine,

Also added some teflon tape on my valve after a silicon bath.

Thanks Coachster

Done my leaky KJ M9 mag for about a week and couple days now and it seems to be working quite nicely :)
Can someone remind me why there's cardboard in my mags?

Damn this awesome technique isn't a sticky yet? :)

I did some gasket maker work and testing recently (with exactly the blue gunk used in this thread.) Among using it for its intended purpose (making a gasket) I also used it on a leaking GBB magazine, but periodically ripped it apart at different times to investigate how it was going. Yes, this meant I had to do and re-do it many times over but I discovered something important.

Short version:

You need more than 24 hours for the gasket maker to fully cure inside a magazine.

24 hours? Sure, if what you applied is sitting in "open air". When it's inside a GBB magazine it took at least a week (at 18-20C) to fully cure! (Edit: The label on the tube says 24 hours, that's where the number comes from.)

My hypothesis is that oxygen is what's curing it, and when it's in the open air there is plenty to go around and lots of surface area. But as soon as you put it in an enclosed space (like inside a magazine) and pinch it between metal there is no longer much oxygen OR surface area and it cures... but very slowly.

Up to about a week in, the gasket maker gunk -- when used as directed in this thread -- was NOT fully cured. 24 hours was not nearly enough. (My chilly basement probably contributed though.)

The process shown in this thread is awesome. It's a great fix. Far better than anything else I've used over the years. But if you leave your mags for only 24 hours, it is not enough to fully cure inside a magazine.

So the bottom is the only place for leaks? How about the top? Will glue gun work? lol

How long should a magazine hold the charge for? Because I left mine charged for 1 day, then it no more than 5 shots. I tried submerging it in water, but I don't see it leaking noticeably. There was only ONE bubble at the top hole, but it wasn't constantly leaking or anything.

Hey Don. Ya I did this back in August. It was significantly warmer back then.

typically leaks from the bottom but depends on brand/type of mag.

yes it can leak out the top but this fix won't help there.

no. glue gun glue won't work.

my mags can hold a charge for several weeks and even months.

fill the gun and then submerge it in warm water to allow the propane to expand more. you should find the leak. otherwise, you're filling it wrong and not getting enough gas into the mag.

What if you take out the fill valve ,after you check for a leak.This would let some (a little) air in, to help cure the silicone. Just a thought.

The extra air from taking the fill valve out would help, but to be safe you should leave it for a week or so.

It's better to wait a bit longer then have to do it twice and wait the extra time.

if you got a valve key, removing the output valve is also a good idea!

Option B. Take a line of the gasket sealer and let it partially congeal and seal before closing the mag up. ?? not having any problems with this so far.

I guess I got lucky! I only let the gasket cure for 24 hours before I gassed it up and it's still holding nicely.

This last post brings up a good point. While I discovered that 24 hours is not enough to fully cure the stuff in a mag, that doesn't mean that the goop actually needs to be fully cured in order to work...

Since many people have had good results with the reduced time, clearly a 100% cure is not required to get serviceable results. Probably there is a "sweet spot" in there somewhere.

With silicone products that we use in the shop, you find that they start to harden in a few hours. Obviously as stated the more air they get the better it is for hardening.

Also I've found that just getting the seal out and cleaning it up along with all the other sealing surfaces can do wonders. The silicone just gives it another something to block the potential leaks that would arise.

awsome guide coachster, even though i don't have a GBB , ill show this to my friend. Your great ! Hope you'll do a GBBR mag fix one day ;)

I've only had one mag not work from leaving it for 24hrs, one of my KSC MK23 mags. I've done all my KJW M700 mags, about five of my nine KSC G19 mags, all worked fine after 24hrs, one (the one I learned to let it set for minimum 24hrs) I left for maybe 6-8 hours and filled it, didn't leak then test fired it, totally gummed up the entire inside of my G19, including all kinds of rubbery foam right down the barrel. And I've fixed a half dozen KSC USP mags without issues (Korv, if you are reading this, I say again, KEEP GAS IN YOUR MAGS ALL THE TIME!!! Mind you, I don't mind charging you $10 per mag for 10mins work each. :P~)

Ill will try this now :) thanks guys

Remove the valves to allow air to get into the mag while its curing then.

These seem great for two peice mags, TM 226 Two piece mags this may not work for however, as often the issue is either "too many rounds force the two peices apart", fill valve leaking and output valves leaking as well. This stuff work for Hi capa fill valves?

Thank you very munch for this post fix my mag yesterday try today everything work perfect thank again

woot! fix a mag .. and unlawfully crack a cable box all in one thread... sweet!


BTW on the silicone gasket stuff... it's not really supposed to be fully completely cured to seal. consider that the stuff is made for valve covers, diff covers .. etc however Propane also has corrosive properties so give it as much time as you can stand to cure and stand up to the propane

Sweet let mine sit and dry for about 4 days, and it worked like a charm!!

How can you go 4 days without firing your GBB???? I can't stand not shooting something at least once a day...

Well I have 8 other mags so I just used those well it was drying.

Update:

I had to redo 2 of 4 TM mk23 socom and 1 WE p14 mag. Not sure why or how they developed a small leak.

I had a few Well G55 (mp5k) mags and could not fix their inherent output valve leaks. Even with new high flow valves, I could not get them to hold gas properly. It's possible that the valves were not 100% to spec and or the mags are made inconsistently. 1 of 3 mags held gas over night with the original flow valve. None of the 3 held gas when I got them. 2 were brand new in the packaging but the main seal likely dried beyond rehydrating with silicone.

This week I worked on a SCAR GBBR mag. Original owner forgot to store them with gas, over the entire winter. Standard silly oil bath did not work. Took a lot more sealant to seal it up than an average GBB mag. I usually squeeze a 1 inch length of sealant on my work surface and it's typically enough to do 2-3 GBB mags. I ended up using a little more than 2x 1 inch lengths. All I did was apply it around the entire channel the rubber ring sits in and then spread more over it.

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Update:

No, the floor plate is not essentially glued to the mag. it will separate with some effort but not difficult at all. I had to use a small jewellers flat head screwdriver to pry/coax the floor plate to release but it wasn't so hard that it caused any damage to the mag itself. Only thing you need to be careful with is that you clean out every little bit of old sealant as the bits will end up getting stuck in your GBB. I went as far as to wash them with mild soap and water.

I'm going to add that before sealing your mag, to wash it with a mild soap to eliminate all signs of silicon oil. I have a theory that too much oil causes the sealant not to stay put too well so I will do this from now on. **Once it cures, please do remember to add silicon oil back into the mag via your gas fills. You will still need it for your fill and flow valves plus to lubricate your GBB.

Sorry to necro.

I just found out that my two TM MEU mags had developped leaks. I own a AA R27 (TM MEU clone) and my original Army mag blew within the 1st week. I just finished using the gasket maker on them. I have a game planned on saturday the 10th of july (we are the 6th today). Right now it is about 25-30 degrees (+ humidity) and I will let them sit untill saturday.

I will report on this sunday (the 11th)

Just to add (and to bump for the people too lazy to search :P)

This method has now been done with the following mags:

TM G17 3rd gen
HFC G17
WE P14
WE stanag
TM MK23 Socom - safety valve disabled (removed and filled) so a bit more involved
KSC MK23 Socom
Maruzen p99
WA 8045 cougar
KSC HK USP Compact

I have only had to redo a couple of mags. TM G17 and TM mk23. The g17 was because I didn't clean all the oils out and the mk23 was because I didn't use enough sealant.

I've also successfully used this method on KJW G23, WA M84F, & TM Desert Eagle mags.
Haven't had to redo one yet.

Coachster

Outstanding post...will give it a go on a couple of my problem leakers.

Thanks coachster!
Just wanted to confirm that this works with long hi capa mags as well. I let it cure for 3/4 days and it is great. Washing everything with light soap and water probably helped a lot. I dipped everything in a pot and the water afterwards was very dirty.

I'd like to add the a few..
KJW M9
Luger(Not 100% on make)

Thank you for creating the thread Coash, and CDN. This may be an open door to many GBB solutions and is VERY effective.

Thank. You!!!! works great

anytime

THanks for Necroìng this because I wasnt going to do it. I stopped doing this fix as I have found that the sealer doesn`t stay inside the mag. Once you screw down the base plate of your magazine it`s impossible to control what is happening with the sealer inside. I have found that the stuff flakes off and is ejected out of the nozzle and into your GBB internals which is mightly aggravating.

Instead I do a combation of finding new O rings, JB weld, and Teflon. I try and avoid doing this if at all possible.

That is why you have to leave your mag sit completely empty for minimum 24hrs, had the same thing as you happen after I filled and tried about 12hrs later, was a bitch to clean up the internals and barrel. Outside of that one occasion, the dozens of mags I fixed with this trick worked perfectly, mine still do, and haven't heard anything from those whose mags I fixed as well.

And there is nothing wrong with necroing a useful fix thread, brings it to the attention of new members.

Just to add to what stalker posted,

You didn't do step 12!

I pressurize, ever so slightly, to help prevent too much sealant from slowly oozing inside. But after it'd cured, I also fully gas it up and vent the entire mag inspecting for bits of extruded sealant.

I've had a couple with too much sealant inside so eventually became aware of where and how much I put in.

Of the mags that I've had leak again, it was only because of rough careless use dropping them on hard surfaces which changed the shape of the mag so the floor plate didn't seal anymore.

This may not be the right place for this but I have a question about something said in the original post:

"It also will work for the TM MK23 Socom mags but I would suggest removing the safety valve, JB weld the hold and then follow the procedure below."

Could we possibly get some pics and pointers on how to do that? Of three mags I own, the original one is already leaking after less than 200 rounds, so I guess its time to get some practice in. Also, it may sound silly but is it really safe to remove the safety valve and what's the purpose of it if only some mags have one? Thanks for any help and consideration.

Yes it is safe. The pressure with propane exceeds that of the safety valve. Removing it bring the mag on par with all other green gas/propane mags. Your pistol is more than adequate to handle propane with proper maintenance, care and usage.

Anyway, once the safety valve fails due to propane over pressure, it will not close and continue to leak as if you drilled a small hole in the side of the mag.

I don't have pics and I'm on my phone so the following will have to suffice for now.

Remove floor plate and look for the half pin. It will be between the two retaining pins on one side only.
Drill it out with an appropriately sized bit. Avoid drilling too deep or on an angle. You only need to go as deep as the outer casing of the mag.
Remove the other two retaining pins.
Sand/file the stump of the half pin flush. If you drilled too deep, you can fill it with a bit of JB Weld later on.
Locate the safety valve and spring and remove both. Shake them out or use needle nose pliers or a small screwdriver.
Clean the opening of all lube a dirt/grim.
Mix your JB Weld as per the directions and fill the hole. Fill your drilled hole at this time if required.
Let dry overnight.
Sand your filled hole(s) flush and test fit it in the mag shell.
Continue with the sealing instructions as above.
Go shoot some baddies!

Followed directions and it worked like a charm on my HFC M190 mag! I waited 48 hours just in case. Thanks!

@coachster - You Sir are my hero! Tried out your method on my leaking KJW P226 mag and it worked flawlessly. Thanks again!

I take donations. ;)

I cant wait to do this to my TM desert eagle mags and my leaky M9 mag:)

Wasn't sure where to post this but it is sort of related...

What kind of grease should I use for the valve and o-ring? preferably something from canadian tire/home depot cause they're the only things nearby.

I buy silicone O-ring grease, sold at pool supplies retailers, you can also check RC stores for heavy weight shock oil.

Ah cheers for the quick answer.

Just make sure that whatever you buy has no petroleum byproducts.

well, if my mag is gasket maker sealed, none. just a touch of silicone oil in the gas to keep the guns internals lubed, but less than normal.

otherwise, http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1321

Looks tasty. I'll have to order me some of that.

This guide worked great for me on my leaky mags. 3 cheers!

TM P226(had used plumbers tape originally)
TM M9
TM Desert Eagle

does this work on gbbr m4 mags?

Hey does anyone know where to get or how to fix a missing fill valve oring. When I fill my mags with propane it sprays everywhere. My M9 mags seal up perfecty with my propane adapter but my M93R mags spray everywhere when being filled. Thanks.

Sorry to hi-jack

Yes, same idea.

anyone encounter hollow pins for the buttplate? ive looked everywhere and nobody seems to have this style of mag pin. I've got a tm m9 and i just cant seem to get them out no matter what allen key, screwdriver, punch etc im using.

whats the secret!?

You could get a roll/spring pin punch but a punch and hammer will work. just make sure the pin isn't hung up on the other side or you will dent out the mag wall or floor plate enlarging the hole.

thats the thing though, I've tried a punch and hammer and its just not budging, I dont wanna smash my mag to bits cuz I dont know how much force to be using, but the things really stuck in there, im wondering if I had maybe bent it on an earlier attempt because I've tried hammering it out with literally like 5 different tools and I'm about ready to give up and go buy a new pistol that doesnt have mags like this cause now both my mags are leaking and I cant fix either one.

Relax, as long as the mag is metal and pretty hefty there shouldn't be much risk of destroying it. Sometimes it takes a firm wack to take the pin out. Since its a roll pin it shouldn't have a knurled edge but you could try hammering from the other side. Sometimes when hammering a pin out they have to be hammered from a specific side.

Perhaps you could try to leave the mag in a hot car (no gas of course) and let the mag get nice and hot. Then maybe just maybe the metal in the mag will expand and allow the pin to come out a little easier. Just an idea.

Same problem, can't seem to find replacements for these fill valve o-rings :(

Spray's propane everywhere? TM mags typically spew gas when filling. It is normal. Some mags don't. Or do you mean it leaks out of your mags from the fill valve after you pull the propane tank off?

I got orings from a refillable lighter and used them on the fill valve(on the outside of the valve) to stop the gas from leaking while filling, or you could try a different tip that seats better from one of those butane cans.

Do you apply it, let it dry, put the seals onto, apply more and dry? Or do you work with everything while it's still in its goopy blue state? Cheers

apply it and put your mag back together again, so the gasket sealer fills the voids. Wipe any excess off, gas the mag and allow the sealer to dry overnight.

Thanks for the response, for a we scar gbb mag- do I apply this on the silver backplate of the mag that screws onto the mag? Or on the mag itself where the large rectangular o-ring is. If anybody has any idea I'd really appreciate it :)

Why is this not stickied?!

I am going to fix some mags using gasket maker, and I just referenced this to make sure I'd be doing it correctly.

Hello everyone,

I have a WE glock mag that is leaking from the output valve. I forgot I already had the mag fully gassed and went to fill it today thinking it was empty. Something must have blown because now the mag leaks like crazy from the output valve.

Ive removed the valve and the O-rings are intact and look perfect. Yet the mag still leaks like crazy. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it? I am soaking it silicone oil right now so hopefully that will work.

Thank you kindly!

Jordan

Added bit of gasket maker and my g36 mag is gtg! Thanks

Use grease. Not silie oil, but thick grease.

Like this:
http://www.mlproduktservice.com/bildbank/grease.jpg

I am soaking it in oil to see if that works. Just to be clear, Im refering to the valve that releases gas into the blow back unit. The strange thing is that the o rings look perfectly fine.

oiled/greased o-ring makes better seals though :)

Quick question for you guys. I have some hi capa mags, and when I go to fill the mags, they like to spew a lot of gas at the fill valve. As a result, I only get enough gas for about 10 shots before empty. I know a solution is to get some new fill valves, but is there a way to fix them?

Could be the nozzle on your propane adapter is flared out and not really good anymore?

Possibly, but it only does it with TM mags and not any other brand. KJW, KSC, and WE mags all fill perfectly.

Does the magazine hiss after you've stopped filling?

TM mags always piss (leak gas) while filling.

The mags do not leak or hiss after filling, but the valves like to spew gas while filling. It's not a huge plume of propane, but it's enough that the mags are only filled about 1/3 of its normal capacity. Any suggestions would be kindly appreciated. Thank you!

How long are you holding the tank on for? Try holding longer. They will leak/spew. It is normal for TM mags. You could consider new fill valves that have an oring on it or locate the tiny orings to add to the existing valves.

Thanks Coach for that helpful post. I used plumber silicon grease since my Canadian Tires never have what you need.

Western arms M1911 mags.

I did this on 4 KJW 1911 mags with great success.

Only difference is I did not fill any gas into it until it fully cured, as doing so would actually make a mess on the inside, if you are not over zealous with the gasket maker it will not ooze everywhere.

I let it cure for 3 days, and I had none of the gasket maker come out from any mag after filling it and releasing the pin to test for debris.

Necro,

Did this few days ago on my leaky TM M&P9 mag as a last resort, let it cure for 24-48 hours. Worked brilliantly!

Cheers.

I had poor luck lately fixing my mags and don’t have the patience anymore. Anyone good with fixing leaking mags from WA can PM me for the job ($).

I have 9 mags disassembled with more than 6 packs of brand new o-rings. Most of them leak from the outflow valve.

hey guys. found this thread via google.

I'm trying to seal 4x Tokyo Marui M9A1 mags.

I took the bases off first, applied teflon tape, put the o-rings on, more teflon tape, lots of silicone oil on each step - still getting hissing / bubbling sound after filling the mags with propane.

I filled the mags hours ago and I can still hear some of them hissing from the base from across the room.

Only option left I can see is to use JB weld silicone - so do I strip the mag bases, clean with degreaser, apply the jb weld silicone sealant, put the o-ring on, put the jb weld silicone sealant on the inside of the mags too - insert the base into the mag, insert pins, put a bit of gas in, leave for 2 days to cure = fixed?

Edit: will this stuff work? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...FKNPWYKI&psc=1