Blown Fuse(s)
 

Hey there. I have an AUG from a guy on the ASC classifieds, and had yet to shoot it. I received my batteries in the mail 2 days ago (2x 8.4V 1500 mAh NiMH). I charged one battery, and connected it to the gun. Pulled the trigger, blew a fuse. So I was like aw crap. Went out and bought some new fuses (15A because the one in it was 15A). I just now put in a new fuse and connected the battery again. Pulled the trigger and IT BLEW A FUSE AGAIN. The gun doesn't make any noise, just a spark (or light or whatever) from the fuse box when I pulled the trigger.

What the fuck is happening?

Someone had a similar issue just the other day. I wish I could remeber who.
Maybe a bigger fuse or a smaller battery would help? Buggered motor?
Perhaps shims? Peanut butter jamming something up inside?

That battery should be fine with the gun. Anyone else? I've now blown 3x 15A fuses.

I think i recall it can be bad wiring (ie one wire has a bit of metal comming out and it touches metal).

Has the gun gone through upgrades or something? Or mis-use?

I'm not sure. It's condition was just "used" when I bought it. And it's a stock TM.

I highly doubt it's bone stock if it's blowing fuses.

Generally, it's poor shimming that causes fuses to blow...

if it was the gears locking up wouldn't he hear the motor wind?

Could it just be a short somewhere?

maybe a wire got knocked loose

i second that call illusion. after running out of ideas on an electrical gremlin i was dealing with , i handed her over to a gun tech( jasper from op-for) who said the shims were "beveled" which in turn caused the selector plate to ground out aginst something internally and was blowing fuses. hope that helps.

Would this constitute anything like a fraudulent sale? Or should I try to fix it.

Today I blew up my first fuse as well, due to a poor shim/bushing job causing the gears to spin improperly. Battery was heating up and BAM, fuse dead.

I'm doubt this is correct gun usage, but I bridged the connection using my broken fuse and a piece of metal wire, fired the gun and found out that my gears weren't turning. I reverted my bushings to stock and it worked fine after that.

Did the sale state anything about an upgraded mechbox? If so, did he ensure it was in working condition or shimmed properly?

Try messaging the seller himself/herself and ask if they did anything to the mechbox

Sale said it was a stock TM. I messaged the guy about it.
Is it safe to bridge the connection? If it's blowing a 15 amp fuse, I don't feel safe connecting it without one. I would be afraid that I'll fuck up the gun/mechbox.

I wouldnt bridge the connection that'd cause you to possibly fry your motor
Your best bet is to bring it to a gun doctor or try a 20A fuse if a 20A fuse blows theres something wrong with your gearbox

Do you know how to take the gun apart? If you can get a side view of the mechbox(without opening it) you should see if the gun still has the original nylon bushing (white/yellow color). If the bushings are metal, then it's not stock.

Guns work fine without a fuse, and I've had guns with fucked up mechboxes cross my bench with the 15A fuse still intact. I'd vouch for the shimming being too tight as well, and suggest going to a 20A fuse and seeing what happens. If it blows, get it worked on. If it doesn't and works fine, then decide what yo uwant to do with it. When and if you get it upgraded, get the shimming checked out while it's open. And don't over upgrade it with piles of aftermarket parts, you'll most likely increase the chances of failures. Spring and metal bushings is all you need to upgrade for a reliable gun.

Well well boys and girls, looks like my "stock TM" isn't really stock. Those look metal to me. and I think something was locked up inside (tappet plate?) and that's why it wasn't firing. I'll reassemble and try to fire.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...k/IMG_1702.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...k/IMG_1703.jpg

Upgrade bushings
you probably have an upgraded spring as well *its not attached to the piston so im assuming its upgraded*

Also check the shimming
by taking out the cylinder/piston/nozzle/spring/tapplet plate, putting a few screws in and trying to turn the gears with a screw driver or something

I broke off the tabs on the spring guide. Cheap piece of shit. Now I'm trying to put it back together without the tabs, and it's nigh on impossible to get the other half of the mechbox on without everything blowing the fuck up.

FUCKING MECHBOX.

Alright got the spring in and closed the mechbox, all that's left to do is test-fire....

And......IT'S ALIVE! Oh my god, IT'S ALIVE! Hallelujah!

LoL congrats I would recommend u get a new spring guide tho :)
Get a ball bearing on haha
Tm ones are crap, i've seen one snapped right at the base

I don't think it's an upgraded spring though. I tried the pop can test and it only went through one side, making a dent in the other side.

The stock TM spring would be attached to the inside of the piston with a little "hook". If your spring didn't have that hook, it's most likely third party. It could be a KA M100, PDI 120% or Promotheus MS90SP. Which are smaller upgrades that bring the FPS above stock, but still under 140 and therefore only pierce one side of the can.

Or maybe it's in fact a stronger spring, but the fps remains low because of an air leak.

Anyway, if you open the mechbox again, you should clean it a bit. There's a lot of butter on the side of the spur gear and the piston teeth look dirty.

Ah yes. It doesn't have that hook thingie, so it must be an after market spring.