WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock
 

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Introduction:

Upgrading airsoft guns is a lot like playing that computer game World of Warcraft. In the game, you have to pick a tech tree or character build to learn abilities useful for the role you are planning to fill in the game. Likewise, in airsoft you have to choose which ‘tech tree’ or ‘build’ you want for your platform.

Having a ton of aftermarket parts to choose from can be daunting. I’ve received numerous requests on which part to upgrade for range, for accuracy, for power, for longevity, etc. More importantly, I’ve gotten a lot of questions on fitting.

So for the newbies out there, here is a little guide that will include everything you need know to about most of the aftermarket parts catered to the Tokyo Marui Glock 17, Glock 18c and Glock 26/Glock 26 Advance platform.

***I will keep updating this thread as i find more parts in my parts locker or purchase new ones. So i apologize in advance for all the revisions.***

DISCLAIMER: Please note that this is the culmination of hours and hours of ordering, fitting, swapping, experimenting to determine the effects of each aftermarket part, diagnosing broken Marui Glocks and fixing them accordingly, ETC. And YES, I have bought all of the parts and tried them. So take what you want from it. Please also note that this is catered to the new guys on the forum who might have a few questions about their Tokyo Marui Glocks. Veterans, please don’t flame me:(


The Tokyo Marui Family Of Glocks:

There is three models of Glocks from Tokyo Marui: The Glock 17 (G17), Glock 18c (G18c), Glock 26 (G26). Here’s how they look like:

The Glock 17 (G17):


The Glock 17 is the most customizable of the Marui Glock pistols. This Glock version is known for its reliability and accuracy. What sets it apart from the other two Marui Glock is the standard size frame with no select fire.

The Glock 18c (G18c):


The select fire version of the Glock 17. The 18c offers a full auto function as opposed to the single, semi-auto of the Glock 17. As such, with the added select-fire function, the Glock 18c has a different internal set up. Contrary to what I’ve seen on this forum, the internals of a G17 and G18c are not 100% interchangeable. So parts you can and some parts you can’t. Externally, the Glock 18c has a ported slide and outer barrel while the Glock 17 does not.

The Glock 26 (G26) and Glock 26 Advance:


This the precursor to the other two Marui Glocks. This was the first Glock TM has ever made. The G17 is modeled after the G26a. What sets this Marui Glock apart from the other two platforms is its size. This is a compact Glock, meaning, for concealed carry, the G26 has a much smaller EVERYTHING. Some call this the “Baby Glock”.

The Glock 26 Advance is the Glock 26 beefed up to make a standard size pistol. The G26 Advance has a compensator attached with an extended under rail and lengthened magazine. The rear sights are also different from the standard Glock sights as the G26 Advance uses a Bomar style rear sight.

NOTE:[I] Some retailers sell their Glocks with a designation of which Generation Glock it is. Ie, 3rd Generation Tokyo Marui Glock 17 (or something like that). This NOT the third version of the same Tokyo Marui Glock (it’s not a revision of the product) but it’s the designation from the Glock generations of the real steel counter parts.[/I]

The Upgrades

From this point on, you have to pick an upgrade tree. That is, you have to consider how you want your Glock to function (what strengths would you like to enhance, what weaknesses would you like to improve) and what scenario you’ll be using it for. Thus, pick an upgrade tree that will maximize that specific attribute or characteristic. I can’t atone for range, accuracy or power because I don’t know which ‘tech tree’ you are going after. I can only give you options.

SO here we go…

External Upgrade Parts:

Slide (+1 durability, grants the wielder the ability to use Green Gas):

PGC: The PGC slide probably the most drop-in ready slide on the market for ALL MARUI GLOCKs. It seems to have been made with the exact same dimensions as Marui’s stock slide. It’s such a perfect fit with no sanding or modifying necessary. It is made of aluminum so it is lightweight for crisp kick but still provides good heft for weight balance distribution. The BBU drops straight in without you having to do anything but to make sure that the return nozzle spring is in place.

Shooter’s Design: Shooter’s Design offers the second most options for slide replacement. Shooter’s Design offers a Caspian slide, a custom ported slide making the slide a bit lighter, a silver and black color scheme of the original slide and so forth. The fitting on most Shooter’s Design kits, most recently, are on par with PGC Kits. The only real difference in this respect is that the Shooter’s Design slide kits tend to have more of a wobble than its PGC counterpart.

Guarder: Guarder is probably one of the most problematic slides in terms of fitting. Though having a stronger(?) 7075 aluminum material, the BBU needs some modifications to fit perfectly. On some of the slides that I’ve tested, the rear sight didn’t line up with the BBU properly and the screw was in a slight angle. This was due to the fact the slide didn’t accommodate the sides of the BBU properly. So expect to make modifications if you choose a Guarder slide.

Even with that said, it’s important to note that these slides are pretty good quality. The trades on these things are simply amazing. The TF 141 and Desert Storm slides are very well detailed and fabricated. These slides are also the most polish friendly of all the slides on the market. The CNC Machined steel slide is probably the best steel slide I’ve seen for the Glock 17 in terms of trademarks and finish.

Airsoft Surgeon: The Airsoft Surgeon slides is one of the most expensive slide kits out on the market. These are meant for the airsofter with deep pockets. The finish on their two tone slides are very well made and very well polished. Fitting wise, they are identical to the Shooter’s Design slides where you would need some lubrication for a good cycle and to get the BBU to drop in place.

BoomArms: I’ve only experimented with one of these so my perspective might be a bit ‘off’. The BoomArms slides are on par with the Airsoft Surgeon slides in terms of quality but with a more budget friendly cost. They offer a SHUEY Custom slide for the G17. And they are beautiful.

Detonator: This is the most expensive slide to date. There are three types that I used on my G17: The Bowie Tactical Hybrid slide, a Glock 22 and a Glock 34 slide. The quality on these slides are superb. Very detailed and no problems with fitting.

GunsModify Slide RMR Slide Kit- This kit comes with EVERYTHING you need to make a Salient Arms International slide with the melted optic. It has the BBU, the Trigger, the Lightweight Aluminum Blowback housing and more! It’s expensive for this reason. Quality wise, I was very happy with the way mine fit on. It wasn’t as as easy as I had hoped but it wasn’t terribly hard.

5KU: These slides are for the players with a budget (sorry). They will function as a replacement for the plastic slide but often require fitting modification to get the gun to cycle properly. Particularly, the slide guide rail is way too tight and is off by a decimeter. Thus, the slide tends to get ‘stuck’ .


Outer Barrels: (+1 Durability, Grants the wielder the ability use Green Gas and grants equal weight distribution)
NOTE: Outer Barrels come with the slide and are sold as sets.


Guarder: There are two versions of the outer barrels available from Guarder that are sold separately from the slide/barrel set: the older one piece outer barrels and the newer two piece steel outer barrel and chamber combination where the barrel is screwed on to the chamber. Both are available in both aluminum and steel materials. Due note that the steel version of the new version is much heavier and requires much more time to break in. Also, Guarder does limited runs for screw barrels in silver for the G17. Most Guarder screw barrels are black with limited runs in stainless steel versions.

The barrel that comes with the slide set is made of aluminum. And should be the ‘default’ outer barrel when using a Guarder slide.

Shooter’s Design: Shooter’s Design makes separate outer barrels from the slide sets but they do limited runs of the product. If you can find one, the fit on them is a bit tight around the hop-up unit. Be prepared to lube your hop-up assembly to drop in.

PGC: As I mentioned before, the PGC Slide/Barrel set is probably the most drop in friendly set on the market for the Marui Glocks. They don’t make aftermarket barrels, but if you can find a separate outer barrel from them, I highly recommend you buy it much more than the latter products.

Detonator: The Detonator “Lone Wolf” Custom outer barrel is primarily for the G17, though most retailers will advertise it being useable with the Glock 18c. It’s threaded in 14mm +/- depending on which one you’re after. These are beautiful but are only available overseas and are limited run parts.

Barrel and Slide Cross-compatibility: (-1 Smoothness of cycle rate, +1 Headaches, Grants the ability to use Green Gas and Headache Ability)

It is important to note that you should NEVER mix and match the slide and barrel between two different brands. One brand has different tolerances than the other. Even being off by a millimeter can set in motion imminent failure for your gun.

Material:

But should you be inclined to use a specific barrel with a specific slide, you should be mindful of the type of material you are mixing. Steel vs Aluminum, 6061 vs. 7075, Die Cast vs Aluminum/Steel, and the list of possible combinations can go on. Steel is heavier than aluminum, aluminum is much better quality than die cast metals.

Steel will withstand more wearing than aluminum since it is much stronger and heavier. If you’re barrel is steel made, look forward for that barrel to eat away your aluminum slide. If you’re after steel slide but have an aluminum outer barrel, look forward to tolerance of the ejection port being off by a few decimeters.

Brands:

One might be inclined to purchase, install and use different aftermarket parts to attain a specific look or function. Thus, here is the barrel/slide compatibility with the best fittings (apart from the original slide/barrel OEM sets). Though this may seem like conjecture and is open to debate, I have tested these fittings myself and have noted some of the behavior of the gun while running these set ups.

PGC Slide: (+1 Durability, +1 Rate of Fire, +1 Cycling)
-Compatible with ALL ALUMINUM barrels with no modifications needed.
-Not recommended to use with steel barrels (wear much quicker than the latter aftermarket slides) like Guarder’s 2011 version

PGC Outer Barrel: (+1 Durability, +1 Smoothness)
-Compatible with all aluminum slides only.
-Perfect drop in for the hop-up
-Works extremely well with Shooter’s Design, Guarder and Detonator aluminum slides

Shooter’s Design Slide: (+1 Durability)
-Perfect with PGC and Guarder Aluminum outer barrels
-7075 Strong and durable able to withstand steel barrels

Shooter’s Design Barrel: (+1 Durability)
-Perfect for the Guarder steel slide
-Even with a SD Slide, it’s not a perfect drop in needs minor adjustments for smooth operation

Guarder Slide Aluminum: (+1 Durability)
-Troublesome with outer barrels other than Shooter’s Design
-Airsoft Surgeon barrels are either too tight or too loose around the ejection port

Guarder Slide Steel: (+1 Weight, -1 Rate of Fire)
-Steel slide needs proper combination upgrades for a smoother cycle
-Should only be used with steel barrels

Guarder Outer Barrel: (-1 Smoothness (steel), +1 Weight)
-Not recommended to use with PGC slide (will eat away the ejection port much quicker as the dimension of the chamber are off)
-Shooter’s Design 7075 slide is perfect
-The hop unit is very tight fitting. If not lubed properly, it will eat away a layer
-Some are aluminum but now are primarily made out of steel

Airsoft Surgeon Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Quality)
-Best use in conjunction with Guarder, Shooter’s Design and PGC Outer Barrel

Airsoft Surgeon Barrel: (+1 Quality, +1 Durability)
-Best use in conjunction with all aluminum slides

BoomArms Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)
-Best use ONLY WITH BOON ARMS Barrel and PGC Barrel

BoomArms Barrel: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)
-Best use in conjunction with BoonArms Slide and PGC Slide

Detonator Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)
-Suitable for all aluminum barrels
-Accommodates all tolerances from different barrels

Detonator Barrel: (+1 Durability)
-Best use with all aluminum slides

5KU Slide: (-1 Quality, +1 Durability)
-Only use with Aluminum barrels
-Not Recommended for Guarder Barrels
-Internals may need modification to drop in

5KU Barrel: (-1 Quality, +1 Durability)
-Best use in conjunction with aluminum slides
-Not recommended for Guarder steel slides

Ruggedized Miniature Reflex Sight System (RMR) Slide Kits : (+1 Aesthetics, Grant the ability to use a red dot sight system)

These slide kits normally use a Glock 18c blowback unit because the mini-red dot is "melted" onto the slide rather than using a specialized mounting bracket that would normally replace the rear sight. This why these kits are predominantly made for the Glock 18c rather than the G17.

Aesthetically, they are usually modelled after the Salient Arms International slide models. But you can find the ZEV Tech RMR slide kits.

But buyer beware. Depending on where you buy these kits from or who makes them, the reflex sight is very brittle. One client of mine said that the lens on his reflex sight popped out. Another said that while mounting the sight, he lost a protective rubber ring and the a bit of moisture got into the circuit thereby destroying the sight system.

Because these are slide mounted optics, make sure you either buy a decent mini optic system that is shock resistant if you are planning on using it during your endeavors.

Sooo.....yeah.

Prime:
So this kit is very made. The slide itself does not need any real modification made to fit the BBH. It marries well to the frame assembly and with ease. The tilt on the barrel was not too bad.

The PPT reflex sight it comes with require slight modification to fit. Otherwise, the sight is not usable with this kit.

ACE 1 Arms:
So this kit is not as choice as other alternatives. The fit is terrible. One a few of the ones that I worked on, I the slide doesn't actually allow the slide to travel far enough to engage the slide lock.

The quality is not bad but it's not the greatest either. The paint on the gold barrels are terribly soft and so easy to rub off.

Ok choice. At best.

Gunsmodify:
I like these but I believe that the Prime ones are much better in terms of their fit and quality.
Good quality on the barrel in terms of surface finishing. It's the most durable finish of them all I think.

Nebula ZEV Style RMR Slide and Barrel Kit:
OEM'ed by NOVA, this kit is one of my favs.
Although not visually appealing, this kit was compatible with all almost every Aftermarket slide rail and blowback unit I had in stock. The action was so fluent that a stock recoil spring was enough to carry the slide with the reflex sight installed and was able to chamber a round with ease.

SIGHTS: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Sight Picture, MAY Grant the ability to use sight system in dark areas)


Sights may or may not be important to the wielder. But nevertheless, it still receives a fair amount of attention from many manufacturers. It’s important to note that even if a seller states that a sight system is compatible with two models, it may not simply be true. You MUST nit pick the picture of the sight you’re after and compare it with the stock sights you are trying to replace to prevent modifications.

Note that the rear sights of the G17 are different from the G18c. Thus, you will need to heavily modify the rear sight post in order to fit a G17 rear sight on a G18c. G26’s are the same as G17 rear sights.

GunsModify:
-Medium expense
-Durable night settings
-Drop in perfectly for any slide
-Not Cross compatible with G18c and G17

Guarder Steel Night sights:
-Perfect drop in for all slides (front and rear)
-Steel slides may need slight sanding for a snug fit
-Decent glowing power with a medium lifespan
-Inexpensive

NINE Ball Tritium Sight:
-Expensive
-Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c
-Careful you don’t damage the 3h vial when installing
-Be prepared to modify the front sight

5KU Metal Night Set:
-Cheap
-Glow Sights are pure crap
-Even though advertised in use with ALL Marui Glocks, Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c

SA Glow Sights:
-Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c
-Cheap
-Fiber rods are cheap quality and do not glow well

AIP International Fiber Optic GLO Sights:
-Cheap
-Only for G17
-Fiber rods do not fit into sight

Detonator:
-Very good sights
-Metal
-Has cut outs on the mount base so that the BBU does not need to be modified to accommodate it.

Thunder Airsoft:
-Weird looking sights
-Integrated rail for attaching slide mounted optics
-Not the greatest sight in the world
-Its weight will add more to the total slide weight

There’s probably tons more, but these are the sets that I’ve gotten my hands on.

Magazine Catch: (+1 Ergonomics, Grants the ability to speed reload)


Guarder Steel Magazine Catch: This is one of the four magazine catches available on the market. It feels nice on the fingers. Fits best.

Airsoft Surgeon Diamond Extended Magazine Catch: This is for the IPSC based Glock gun. It is intended for faster reloads by increasing the raise on the magazine catch. Good quality.

AIP Aluminum Magazine Catch:
Affordable magazine catch but it wears much faster than the latter.

Shooter’s Design Magazine Catch:
Like Guarder’s.

SAPH Stainless Steel Magazine Catch
Good drop in fit. Require a bit of wearing for the magazine to mate properly.

Thunder Airsoft:
-Good but not great
-The paddle prevented mine from releasing the magazine fluently


Slide Catch: (+1 Ergonomics)

GunsModify:
This part is very easy to install and drops right in. No need to sand things

AIP Extended Slide Catch:
Again, No modification required. However, it seems a bit more brittle than the GunsModify one

Guarder Extended Slide Catch:
Fairly Easy to install. You MIGHT have to modify the rounded edged. Some of the ones I installed were sooo tight that the part didn't actuate properly. Guarder what's going one!!??

Trigger: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Ergonomics, Grants shorter trigger pulls)

GunsModify Version 1:

They sell two different colors: silver and black. Both have 3 interchangeable colors for safety triggers: red, black and silver. This trigger is adjustable but the trigger bar negates this feature as the cut on the trigger is not exact. Thus, if you want to use this feature, you need to sand your trigger lever.

GunsModify Version 2 "Salient Arms":

There is a slight difference from version 1. The most notable one is the design. It looks like an RS version of Salient Arms trigger. THe second is that the design of this version is much more drop in friendly. It still negates the trigger safety if you adjust it but I find that you don't have to modify it to fit the Marui Trigger bar.

Beware though, this version does not come with the very thin plastic disk for the G17 trigger bar. Thus, if you’re using a G17 trigger bar, it will rattle around.

Airsoft Surgeon Salient Arms Trigger:

This is almost the same as the GunsModify Version 2 trigger. However it can not be manipulated as easy as the GUnsModify one. For one, I think it's primarily made for the G17. When I tried to fit a G18c trigger bar on, it as a bit tight because the width of the trigger bar itself was bigger.

The Frame: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)
Now, if you have spec’ed your Glock to use Green Gas with a metal slide and stronger recoil springs, depending, on how well you take care of your pistol, you may need to change your frame altogether. At some point or another, your front screw post on the stock frame may give out. You can try to fix it by JB Welding it back together and get some shock buffers to absorb some of the recoil.

Guarder makes a replacement frame with a reinforced front screw post. The post has been packed and uses a different screw casing altogether. The plastic is durable and has less flex than the stock Tokyo Marui frame. Plus it contains all the proper trademarks in all the right places if you’re that type of guy.

This frame can accommodate all internal parts very well. The magazine catch is a bit of fight but no modification is needed.

The other frame alternative you can have on your Glock is the clear, transparent lower frame. These are not upgrade frames but rather serve as a temporary replacement. You should only use these in conjunction with duster as they are very weak and tend to crack all over the place after a few hundred rounds with green gas. My first Glock was a cansoft TM G17 and the frame cracked after plinking a few rounds on Green Gas. They may be useful for emergency purposes but not ideal for permanent use.

Internal Upgrades: (+1 Durability, +1 Cycling, +1 Functionality)

Before we go on, it is important to note that the more aftermarket parts you add on to your gun, the more it tends to break down. This is solely based on parts having a hard time marrying to OEM components. SO, you have to be precise in what it is you are trying to upgrade on your gun.

Also, the more you take your gun apart, the more it becomes prone to failure. Half the guns that I’ve had to fix are things that the owner did wrong when he put the gun back together. Look at it this way: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

150% Recoil Springs and Spring Guides: (+1 Cycling)

http://www.zerooneairsoft.net/images/GLOCK-17.jpg

Upgraded recoil springs are designed move the heavier aftermarket slides as opposed to the lighter plastic stock slide. Do note that the heavier the slide assembly, a stronger recoil spring is required to carry that slide. And vice versa. Improper usage of springs can damage your Glock. Using a high power spring on a lighter slide brings a lot of stress on your front screw post and thus will destroy it. A heavy slide with a light powered spring won’t cycle your gun properly.

Also, note that the stronger you make your recoil spring, the less recoil you’re going to feel. This is because the spring will resist the rear slide stroke even more reducing the slides velocity as it travels to the rear.

Stronger spring = lesser felt recoil

Most springs come with an enhanced recoil guide rod. I’m not going to list all of the different brands as there are just simply too many manufacturers that make these but here are a few of the well known brands that I used:

Guarder:
Guarder makes both the spring and guide rods. You can buy them together or separately. These are perfect for use with Guarder slides. They are generally a bit stronger than the latter Shooter’s Design springs of the same power.

Shooter’s Design:
The spring is a bit stronger than Guarder’s even though they boast the same power (150%). It usually comes with a stainless steel recoil rod. Can carry all aluminum slides just fine. However, the top spring plug tends to unscrew itself so make sure you check regularly to make sure it’s still properly seated.

SA:
It’s decent quality. It’s steel but the guide rod has more components than the average SD or Guarder spring kits available, which means it needs a little bit more attention than the latter.

Firefly:
This is again a two-stage spring set. Comes with a buffer spring to help with the recoil. Not recommended for steel slides.

NineBall:
This is the only spring/guide rod set that has shock buffers preinstalled for the G18c. This has a weaker spring because of the buffers. It was designed for use with the stock slide. This will short stroke your pistol. Alternatively, NineBall also makes the non-buffer enhanced set so you can still have a slide lock on empty. Your choice.

MAMA:
It's ok. A little stiff. It will short stroke the gun a little bit. The spring guide it come with is...OK...at best.

Those are just a few. I have experimented with a lot of different brands and I’ve found these to be the best of the best.

Hammer Springs: (+1 Power)

http://www.saph.com.hk/pics/product/...r%20spring.jpg
Hammer springs are not necessarily a must have upgrade. You only need stronger hammer springs for the summer as the gasses tends cook and expand inside the magazine in hotter weather. Thus, the pressure from inside the magazine pushing unto the blow off valve is heavier and requires a good strike from the valve knocker to achieve optimal gas output. Hence, the need for a stronger spring. It has also been noted in the past that the newer Glock versions do not need a hammer spring upgrade as they have already been fitted with one that can handle hi-flow valves.

Again there are many manufacturers of this part so I’ll only stick to a few:

Guarder:
This spring usually comes with the recoil spring upgrade. This is probably the best fitting of all the brands.

Shooter’s Design:
This needs slight modification for ALL the Glocks. You may need to cut the ends a bit to fit. This is much more reliant than Guarder’s spring and is my choice as far as hammer springs go.

SA Enhanced Hammer Spring:
"Enhanced “doesn't neccesarily mean a strengthened spring. This one seems to be weaker than Guarder's and SD's spring but stronger than the stock one. It doesn't really work on a hot magazine and will continually give you light strikes.

Element:
Same as SA's spring. They both act the same way.

Precision Inner Barrels: (+1 Accuracy, +1 Power)
http://asgc.co.nz/images/FALCON-PIB-F96_1_mark.jpg
Inner barrels are the case-by-case basis. It really depends on what you are doing with your Glock. For regular skirmishes and CQB scenarios, a 6.01 tight bore inner barrel isn’t necessarily a compulsory upgrade since you’ll have a primary weapon. Whereas, If you are using Glock for some type of shooting competition (NOTE: the G18c is not a competition gun and is not allowed in most shooting competitions) where accuracy is a must, then a 6.01 inner barrel is feasible. Due note that because the G26 is a sub-compact pistol, you won’t be able to interchange the inner barrel with the G17 or G18c. Also note that the tighter the bore, you will be required to use very high quality BB’s (Bastards FTW) to prevent damage.

Here are some but not all inner barrels to consider:

A+ 6.01 Precision 97mm Inner Barrel for Marui GBB Pistols (5.1/Glock/P226):
This isn't the best TB out there but it does a decent job. It behaves in the same manner as PDI's regular barrel (the silver one, not the Palsonite version). Sometimes, I got a jam using this barrel.

PDI: Available in 6.04, 6.03, 6.01 bore for G17/G18c
PDI’s inner barrel is probably the most common. Even though it is of decent quality and decent price range, it very has a tendency to become a bit of a pain in the long run. They somehow tend to eat up your hop-up rubber.

Energy: Available in 6.01-6.04 bore
This is probably the lower quality brand of inner barrels. Made out of Aluminum, you’ll need to add a layer of tape to stop it from wiggling around.

First 6.03 Inner Barrel:
This a good replacement barrel for the skirmish/CQB scenarios. It’s relatively inexpensive and can easily marry to all the outer barrels on the market.

Falcon: Available in 6.01-6.03 bore
Good quality. Some come with hop up rubber. Some are a bit tight fitting on the hop up assembly.

Tanio Koba:
This is probably the best bang for your buck inner barrel on the market. The Hop Twist inner barrel is quite unique and found to increase accuracy greater than the other products.

KM:
KM is the only inner barrel that I’ve comes across that gives you both a power and accuracy upgrade for your G26. It’s a mid range product. Good but you can probably do a lot better.

Airsoft Surgeon:
Fits right in and has no trouble marrying with all the different outer barrels on the market. It’s pricey but worth it. Note that these were limited runs with different barrel lengths: 6in, 7in, 8in.


Airsoft Surgeon Non-Hop inner barrel for Glock:
This version of the AS inner barrel has an inner bore of 6.02mm. It has no hop up. This barrel will increase your FPS by a bit.

There is more but I have so many out of their packages that I don’t know what brand they are. So I’ll just leave it that for now.


Floating Valves: (+1 Durability, +1 Gas Efficiency, +1 Power)

For the most part, you don’t really need to worry about floating valves breaking in your stock Marui Glock. They are a very well made OEM parts and will handle green gas just fine. But if you’re looking for a bit of an upgrade of gas efficiency, the floating valve is a good place to start to make the changes.

Firefly:
Firefly rocket valves are probably the most ideal floating valve systems for the G18c. Having a full auto pistol means that you will expel a lot of gas thus gas efficiency is a must. Firefly does a very good job of filling in for the stock system.

AABB:
This is a whole replacement set for the loading nozzle assembly. This is made from plastic. Its not recommended as this is made from non-reinforced plastic. This one broke on me after a couple a couple magazines.

Action Aluminum Floating Valve for Glock:
This is good enough to run in your Glock. It’s lightweight and easy to install.


SilverBack:
Same as AABB.

RCC:
This is a heavy floating valve. The holes are bigger allowing for more airflow. However the floating valve head has no cone to direct the airflow traffic. I like it though. It functions well.

High Output Blowoff valves (High Flow Valves): (+1 Power)

Guarder:
-Gain about 20-30 FPS depending on weather
-Fits tightly and seals much better than the competition

Nineball:
-Dont buy it!

Action:
-Gain about 20-25 FPS depending on temperature
-Inexpensive but good performer
-O-Ring tends to dislodge

KM:
-Gain about 28-31 FPS
-Good performer

Loading Muzzles: (+1 Durability)
Note that this part is not cross compatible. An G18c loading nozzle is different from a G17 and G26

Airsoft Surgeon Enhanced Muzzle set:
I like it. I like it alot!!
BUY IT. BUY IT NOW!!!

AABB:
As mentioned above, this is not an ideal replacement part. Made out of plastic, it still flexes like the stock loading assembly.

Guarder:
Requires little to none modifications to fit and gets along with the internal components very well. But some operators have been reporting problems with breakage after a few mags worth. see the thread posts.

AIP Enhanced Loading muzzle
It's ok. It's not the greatest. IT comes in a set that includes a floating valve + FV Spring. THe floating valve sux!

SilverBack:
Belongs with AABB in the lower tier upgrades. The fitting on these sets are horrible and doesn’t glide smoothly even with lubrication.

GunsModify:
I'm still testing these on how durable they are. So I can't speak for how long they will last.
BUT the good news is that they are pretty good in terms of fitting. They will move in and out freely and little force.
It also fits with very with the hop up unit.

UAC Glock 17/18c Aluminum Loading Muzzle:
Careful when using this. I have seen these freeze in cold weathers.
Also, metal muzzles tend to ruin hop up rubbers.

Future Energy:
Cheap. Stay awaaaayyy!Mine broke in the first hundred rounds....

Hop-Up Rubber (Hop Up Bucking): (+1 Accuracy)

Hop Up rubbers increase the air seal around the the inner barrel. Thus, improves the airflow on you Glock. The effects of a good hop up rubber is evident through increased accuracy, range and a slight power increase. If your hop-up is not tuning properly, check to see if your bucking is still good shape. You don't want this part wearing down.

Note that the harder buckings are made for higher velocity guns. But since the Glock won't reach any higher than 310-325 FPS, you will be dealing with mostly soft buckings as they tend to work better with lower velocity guns. Harder buckings are more for your standard rifle than a pistol.

Here are some that are worth noting.

RA Tech Hop-Up Bucking:
-Good use with the PDI TB Inner Barrel
-Produces a tight seal

Falcon Hop-up Bucking (sold with inner barrel):
-Good for use with Falcon inner barrels
-Harder than RA-Tech

Firefly VSR-10 Hop-Up Bucking:
-Soft
-Good fit
-Swells

AIP Reinforced Hop-Up Bucking:
-medium softness
-wears quickly

A+ Devil Hop Up Bucking (or something like that)
-Only works if the clamp on the hop-up base is tight
-Hop up has to be turned to maximum tightness to produce the results that the youtube videos showed
-Best used in conjunction with an 01 inner barrel

NineBall Hop-Up Bucking
-I found these to be one of the best buckings for the Glock on the market
-Produces a good seal on the BB
-Gives good accuracy output with the TK Twist inner barrel

PDI W-Hold Hop Up Bucking
This is a very good alternative to the NineBall bucking. While the NineBall one gives you power, you'll get more accuracy with the PDI one. Note though that my experience with this bucking: it swelled after several hundred rounds.

BlowBack Units (BBU): (+1 Durability)

AIP TM Glock 17 BBU Housing

The AIP Glock 17 BBU housing was a perfect fit for my Guarder slides. THe don't need any modifications or lubrication to get into place. Rear sights were easy to align with the screw. The only thing I disliked about this casing is that it comes with an integrated piston head which doesn't provide a good airseal because the o-ring was a bit small. If you want to maximize the airseal using this thing, install a better o-ring than what it comes with.

GunsModify Lightweight Aluminum BBU

This was 50/50 for me. On one hand, it’s quite light and has a modular piston head mount. This meant that you could buy other piston heads and put them inside this thing and it will work. This ability is something that other BBUs currently on the market lacks. On the other hand, it required a TON of modification.


Nineball Featherweight BBU casing/piston for G18c:
This is a lightweight piston/BBU casing. It made of plastic so it weighs like...a feather amount.

AKA Lightweight Aluminum BBU
This is the exact same design as AIP’s. It has the same integrated piston head. All you can really do to create a good seal from this system is to shim the O-ring section on the piston head with the some duct tape or something.

The difference between this one and the AIP one is that this thing fits like shit. A ton of modifications were made to make mine work right.

Angel Custom Lightweight Aluminum BBU
Once again, this mimic’s the AIP design. The finish on it is smoother than the GunsModify one. I don’t recommend this one though.

Guarder Blowback Unit v1/v2
These are nothing special. As with typical guarder products, these blowback units are very inconsistent with measurements. Some of the ones that I've received did not line up with the slide rail guides. Another one had the bump for the hammer protrude waay too much.

There are two versions of this unit. One is the lightweight one and the other is the alloy one with the stock weight.
Both can fit real steel back plates.

Get which ever you need.

Hop-Up Casing/Base: (+1 Durability)

AIP
The AIP hop-up base is an aluminum replacement for the stock hop-up base. It's much lighter than the stock one so it will lighten your internal assembly a bit.

UAC Aluminum Hop Up unit
It's ok. Aluminum means greater durability over the stock Marui unit.
The screws threading on these sometimes break if you try to use some other screw. So Just watch out for that.

The other thing is that this unit tries accomodate the Marui clone receivers as well. Thus you may encounter some issues during the action. Most notable if your outerbarrel doesn't tilt properly.

TSC Aluminum Hop Up uni
Ok Choice.
I like the screws better from this unit. It has less potential of stripping when taking it apart as it uses the hex key instead.
Front Chasis: (+1 Durability)


For the most part, this does not changing. However, if your slide wobbles waaayyy to much it may be ideal for you to proccure a new set of slide rails. Be advised though, the slide rails are a two part rail system. The first part is the front chasis that houses the trigger and the other set of rails is the rear chasis that houses your internal hammer system.

As a general overview, the most awkward part of installing this part on the Marui is the alignement of the slide lock. Make sure that your slide lock can freely move up and down so you can take the slide apart. Some of the front chasis don't accommodate this function too well in conjunction to aftermarket frames.

Guarder Steel Front Chasis For Marui G26
So. This steel replacement is designed for durability. It's ok. But your running a stock frame, make sure you protect that front screw casing.

Guarder Steel Front Chasis For Marui G17/G18c
Once again, this part is an ok part to have. It's not the greatest. As once again Guarder's inconsistancies really take the center stage on this one.

Tried with most slide types. Some were loose and some were uber TIGHT! The Guarder Steel Slides are won't even move with this rail system installed.

So Buyer Beware!

Creation Steel Front Chasis For Marui G26
So this one is a steel upgrade as well.
It works waaaay better than the Guarder ones. Slide action is not the smoothest on these but it's much more consistent fitting with different brand slides.

UAC Aluminum Front Rail Chasis
This is a two piece set up.
It fits most slides out there. You may need to work at it to get the manaul safety moving fluently but nobody really activates that part safety anyways. :P

Rear Chasis: (+1 Durability)


Be Very careful when investing in this part. Make sure you buy a MARUI SPECIFIC hammer housing.

There is one key difference that the Marui hammer housing has that others don't. This difference is key because without it, it can make your hammer unit go on full auto if it's missing. Essentially, the slide will be spaced out far enough that when the slide travels above the hammer, it won't clamp enough to lock the hammer to the sear. Thus, full auto.

UAC Aluminum Hammer Housing
All the hammer parts fit nicely in here.
All holes line up and they are very accomodating in terms of different slide manufacturers.

Guarder Steel hammer Housing
So this is comes in 4 different variations.

Make sure you buy the MARUI Specific version not the KJW version or whatever stupid crap. Again, this one works exactly the Guarder front chasis described above.

Valve Knockers: (+1 Durability)


Shooter’s Design G17 Valve Knocker:
Again, the valve knocker is a very high stress part. So will need to replace this part at some point or another. Steel made. Just like the hi-capa version though, you may need to shorten the strike face to get a fluent operation. Otherwise the valve knocker will be too long and won't slip behind the blowoff valve resulting in the dreaded light strike.

Guarder Glock Steel Valve Knocker
This the WORST fitting valve knocker I've ever had to deal with. It jams the hammer completely and will not fire the pistol. I suggest you look for alternatives.

Gunsmodify Steel Valve Knocker
So this part is weird. It's not compatible with some hammers. Particularly, some of the G18c hammers.

I worked with millions of these. And they all have a the same flaw: it blocks the disconnector from dropping.

AIP Steel Valve Knocker
Needs modification. Look carefully on where you need to make the adjustments. These produce lightstrikes on their own.

Hammers and Sear Sets: (+1 Durability)


Guarder Steel Hammer:
It fits very tightly on the trigger bar pin. Lube it lots and lots if this is the case for your gun.

The hammer rotor also needs to be either modified to fit or lossened up with lube.

Guarder Steel Sear:
It's best to use this with the Guarder Hammer.
The hammer hooks are a bit proud and you will need to have a longer trigger pull to release the hammer.
At least, this was the case with my Guarder sear. lol.

Guarder Hammer Rotor:
This is non sense. You don't need to buy this part. The one that I got was too big and caused some slide action issues.

GunsModify Zero Hammer:
For the most part you don't need this replacement. The reason why this replacement came to market was because of the hammer tends to get caught and prevents the slide from fully cycling. SOmetimes, the slide won't fully return to battery because of this one part. The newer versions of the TM G17 have a much better hammer assembly and does not get stuck anymore. But I got one anyways. FOr the most part it does work. Taking the G17 down is much easier with this installed than the latter stock part.



AIP Hammer Parts (for G17 and G18c)

There was some trouble with the sear on the Glock 17 set. As Turok_T mentioned below, the tab that the trigger bar interacts with isn't cut properly. So you'll need to sand it down a bit for it to function properly. Other than that, I found that it mated perfectly with the Shooter's Design Hammer spring and valve knocker. The hammer spring it comes with seems to be prone to light strikes. Also, the stock hammer bearing doesn't work with this thing. It's too small. That's why it comes with its own hammer bearing that is a bit bigger than the stock. With the stock one installed, the hammer couldn't lock onto the sear hence the hammer was staying in the uncocked position.

The Glock 18c version was somewhat equally troublesome for me. The fullauto sear's tab (the part that interacts with the slide) seemed to protrude quite proudly and was causing some friction. I've had to sand it down a bit and polish it to remove the unwanted friction.

KM Stainless steel hammer w/ Bearing for Marui Glock 18c:
This hammer set fits right in to your Glock 18c Hammer housing. It's made of steel which means it's pretty strong but it also means that it will wear out the BBU much quicker than the stock counter part.

KM Stainless Steel Sear and Valve Knocker Set:
Again, it's made of steel but because of this material, it will wear the contact point of the stock hammer much quicker than the stock sear. It is recommended that you purchase a hammer that is made of steel for longevity. As well, you may need to shorten the valve knocker a little bit as sometimes, it may protrude further than it needs to.

UAC Glock 17/Glock 18c steel hammer Set:
It's ok. I like the Glock 17 hammer but the new Glock 18c hammer is a bit troublesome marrying to the BBU interaction point.

Other Internal Upgrades:

Shooter’s Design Glock 18c Full-Auto Sear:
For the most part you don’t need to worry about the sear until it wears thin. The Shooter’s Design sear is the only alternative. It’s steel so it will last you for a long time. Good for shooting Full auto.


Guarder Trigger Bar:
This is not a necessary upgrade. It is mainly used as a reinforced part for extended use with green gas. Note that this is only useable with the G17.





Add-Ons: (+1 Aesthetics)
http://www.imfdb.org/w/images/thumb/...MGS4-Glock.jpg

There are a myriad of weapon attachments you can add to your light. Some serve functional purpose and others serve nothing more than mere eye candy.

Flashlights: (+1 Ergonomics, +1 Aesthetics, Grants the ability to light your darkest hour)
The best light you can possibly get for your Glock is a good old M3 tactical light. When you talk about tactical Glocks, the M3 lights is easy to attach and easy to operate.

Lasers: (+1 Aesthetics, Grants the ability to permanently destroy a targets retina)
There are essentially three types of lasers that you can mount on your Glock: a rail mounted laser, a trigger mounted laser and the Silverback grip laser. Any under rail laser will fit on your Glock provided they’re of the same dimensions. The trigger-mounted lasers may need you to modify their mount, as the Glock trigger guard is a bit thicker than most pistols.

The Silverback grip laser isn’t bad to use but their fitting isn’t consistent. Some fit well while others not so well. I have three of these and they all seem to be different in terms of their cut and snugness. Plus, zeroing these things isn’t as easy as they seem.

Army Force G17 IPSC Kit: (+1 Aesthetics, -1 Functionality, Grants the ability to mount a MRDS and compensator)
This kit includes a threaded barrel, thumb rest, scope mount, cocking handle, compensator and a mag well. This is kit is not great. The scope mount and its subsequent screws do not fit properly onto the G17. The scope prevents a smooth cycle because it touches a little bit with the moving slide. SO no…just…no.

Suppressors: (+1 Aesthetics, -1 Cycle)
You need a lightweight suppressor if you want a full cycling gun. I have an ACM HK marked metal with foam brick 155mm suppressor on mine. It's heavy and pulls the outer barrel down preventing a smooth cycle. Sometimes, it gets the slide stuck. If you want to effectively use a suppressor, get an extended inner barrel.

Now, for non threaded outerbarrels, you can add an adapter. Pro arms sells these specifically for both KSC and TM Glocks in CCW and CW threads but you need an extended inner barrel to mount it.

Mini Red Dot Scopes (MRDS): (+1 Accuracy)
It is possible to mount a mini red dot on your Glock. There are scores of mini red dots available. Get one that you feel comfortable in terms of how it functions and weight. You’ll need a mount for it. Silverback makes ones for the G17 but won’t fit the other Glock models without heavy modifications. You need to sand the post down to fit the other two models.

Face-strike Kits: (+1 Face-hitting Power)
This fits as an under rail attachment. There are strike kits available from 5KU and Nineball. It just slides right in place.

Freedom Art Accu’comp Set: (+1 Colorfulness)
I was fortunate to have found one these on ebay. The fitting on Freedom Art compensator set is a case-by-case give or take. While the fit was immaculate on the G17, on the G18c it was tighter. This boggles my mind.

The trigger pin for example was super tight to get on and through to the other side.

Carbine Kits: (+1 Ergonomics, -1 Recoil, Grants to ability to wield a Glock as a SMG type weapon)
There are few carbine kits you can purchase to turn your Glock into a SMG. AABB and EA just to name a few.

Magazine: (+1 Ammo Capacity)

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/im...AB153-AG-1.jpg

There is only one magazine that I have tested in for Tokyo Marui G17 and G18c. AABB makes a high capacity, long magazine. This is a horrible magazine. Though its price range may attract you, this magazine has a tendency to leak after a few hundred rounds. Which is...whatever. I bought three of these at once and even fitted with good valve kits, they still leak.

Alternatively, you can buy the more expensive TM brand magazines. While the cost may be double that of AABB's, it is rightly justified by the the quality and longevity you are receiving.

Magwells/Magazine Baseplates:
Magazine wells help enhance the ergonomics of your grip on the Glock by providing a resting area for pinky side of your hand. Though you may not feel this with the full size Glocks, you will definitely feel it in the baby G26. The magazine well also improves your reload speed as it gives you a wider surface to 'feel' for insertion of the magazine into the magazine chamber. Though this may or may not specifically be important for skirmish type situations, the use of magazine wells definitely favors players playing in professional shooting stadiums like CAPS.

Shooter's Design Magwell:
The Shooter's Design magwell is one of the best fitting magwells on the market. It is very comfortable to have on your Glock and feels lighter than the latter products. Some of them have the lanyard plug at the bottom.

SA Aluminum Magwell:
This one is a typical magwell in comparison the Shooter's Design magwell. The fitting is is catered to the G17 magazine chamber as it tends to be harder to fit on the G18c. It's made out of aluminum and weighs a bit more than the SD well.

5KU Magwell:
This one mimics Shooter's Design style magwell where it has a break in the rear of the gun and doesn't completely cover the magazine chamber. Again, this one is more catered to the contours of the G17 rather than the G18c. It doesn't sit flat on your gun because the mount screw hole doesn't line up properly with the G17's.

T.S.C. 7075 MagWell:
This one is weighty because of the material stronger material and fits very well into your Gun. Good Quality too.

AIP Magwell:
I found this to be the most comfortable out of the magwells on the market. It's not as high a grade as Shooter's Design fit as it doesn't fit snuggly around your gun and can wiggle just a little bit. But again it is comfortable because of the contours are ergonomically friendly.

Shooter's Design Magbase:
These replace the baseplate on your stock magazine. They are both available for the long magazine and the standard size magazine. It doesn't have any real function per se other than providing you with authentic trademarks on your magazine. I find these to be cumbersome to have on your magazine as it covers the fill valve. The plate locks into place at the BB follower's spring base. For guys who like to fill up on gas on the field, having this is not ideal because you have to slide the plate of to reveal the fill valve while simultaneously holing the locking mechanism in the unlock position. And let me tell me you, these things fit very tightly around your mag base. Your gloved hands won't be able to accommodate the push you need to slide the plate off. At least in my experience.

Gear: +1 Munitions, +1 Mobility

After Care Treatment: (+1 Durability, +1 Functionality)

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Lubrication:
With your brand new parts kicking into high gear, you need to be aware of proper care for you to maximize their functionality. Proper use of lubrication goes a long way. This is especially true to the G18c where it contains a lot of moving parts from the full auto mechanism. Thus, it's it is important to know what to lubricate and what type of lubricant you should be using.

I have a technical background in machining specifically dealing with automotive parts before becoming a journalist and for the life of me, I can't understand why airsoft retailers advise the use of silicone for metal on metal contact.

Silicone oil is horrible for metals as some machinist will tell you. They are very light and are easily dispersed once you fire your first shot. Thus, the constant need for lubrication after each game.

What you need is proper metal on metal lubrication. Superlube is the best you can find at relatively low price. Most hardware stores, except frigging Canadian Tire, carry Superlube. A tube of this stuff should last you for years. I've had mine for nearly 1 and half years and it's only half done.

But that's not to say that silicone doesn't have its uses. Silicone oil should only be used for the plastic components on your Glock. Only use 100% silicone oil. Never any of that synthetic stuff as they contains ingredients that will eat away your plastic components. Also, if you have a 6.01 bore on your barrel, it is ideal for you to put a bit of silicone down the barrel to help the BBs along. Do also note not to spay your hop up rubber with silicone. It will absorb it and will warp. You don't want that.

So what should you be lubricating? Here is a list and what to use:

On the Slide

1). The chamber and ejecting port need a very minute amount of Superlube. Depending on which barrel and slide combination you have, they will grind and eat each other. Superlube grease should help the chamber slide smoothly beneath the ejection port.

2). The fire-selector mechanism on the G18c needs Superlube. Again very little. Put some beneath the sight screw post on part18c-22 and 18c-20.

On the Frame assembly:

1). From time to time, the magazine chamber needs a bit of silicone to help the magazine glide along with ease

2). Every part of the hammer assembly needs to be treated with Superlube. This the most high stress point of the gun and adequate lubrication is a must to prevent wearing. Treat parts 48 to 61 with Superlube. Make it a goal to lube up the sear and the hammer.

3). The contact point between the trigger bar and the trigger needs to be treated with either/or silicone or Superlube. If you don't have the aluminum GunsModify trigger installed, use silicone. If you do, use Superlube.

4). The magazine release and the magazine release spring needs to be treated with silicone.

5). The slide guide rails need to treated with Superlube or silicone depending on the material of your slide. For ones made out of plastic, use silicone.

So to summarize, use proper lubrication in all the right places and that Glock of yours will take care of you in the field by minimizing the chance of for it to fail. Also, do note that you have to let the newly installed parts marry with one another. You wont get a 100% smoothness in terms of ROF but lubrication will help facilitate a strong marriage between all the parts (see what i did there?).

Gas Types:

You can use either duster gas or green gas/propane with any of the Tokyo Marui Glocks. Duster gas for the lighter plastic stock slide and Green Gas/propane for the heavier aftermarket slides. Stock Tokyo Marui Glocks are among the highest quality gas blowback pistols on the market internally. The internals are spec'ed for use with duster gas but can handle green gas/propane just fine.

Green gas/propane usage and the subsequent failure of the slide is case by case scenario. Some owners have been using green gas/propane for years on their stock TM Glocks and haven't broke. Whereas some owners are not so fortunate. But nevertheless, you should probably make the necessary gas adjustment based on what you have put into your gun. The heavier you make the slide assembly the more power the Glock will require to move it.

The frame is another story. Again, the front screw casing is very weak and can't stand up to the pressure of Green Gas/Propane. It just a matter of time before it does. Check once in while if that casing is cracked. If it is, you can still strengthen it by putting JB Weld around it to help it brace the impact. If it's shredded, then you may need to just JB Weld your chassis to your frame.

Ammunition

Now, it's important to know which kind of BBs you should be using. This is applicable with ANY gun you are using for any type of scenario. The airsoft world and its proliferation has spawned countless numbers of BB manufacturers. Some retail places here in Canada even have their own line of BBs. You can pick whatever you want. But don't EVER buy ones from stores that don't specialize in airsoft gear or supplies like Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire. These brands, no matter what anyone will tell you, are just horrible. They tend to scratch up or in some cases break and destroy your inner barrel. If not, they leave a flaky residue inside your bore that can hinder the bullets trajectory and power.

Here are some BB manufacturers that should be noted for use your Glock:

Excel
These guys have been around for a while and still I use these primarily. I use these on all types of bores and found them to be one of the best on the market. The G26 loves these things. They are slick and perform on a tried and tested formula. Can't say anymore than that.

BB Bastards:
They have been regarded for a long time as one of the best BBs to use even with modern inclusions or 'new' inventions of bb ammunition. But with the inception BB Bastard ammunition, many airsofters, including myself, found a new favorite. And rightfully so. Bastard bullets are the choice for for any type of scenario with any type of bore for any type of player. I've been running with .20g of Bastards on a Raven PDI 6.03 97mm TB barrel and have yet to have a single jam.

[B][I]KSC:
These are also good quality BBs. Not as high, IMO, as Bastard or Excel but they work real well with the wider bore inner barrels.

Guarder:
I had these for years and never bothered to use them because they are very problematic. These BBs tend to jam on your gun because they are a bit oversized. The intention of this design is for purely for cost effectiveness. Guarder thought that If you can't buy a tight bore barrel, why not make the BBs slightly larger so that it can simulate the tight bore effect? It does work to a certain effect but again, these bb's tend to jam both on your magazine and your hop-up unit because of their size. So be careful.

Tokyo Marui Brand BBs:
These are highly recommended for use in conjunction with any tightbore barrels. I only shot a few hundred of these so i might be a little biased. They work real well with the 03 and 02 bores. They jam from time to time on 01s.

These are just some of the higher quality BBs. Everyone has a choice for which BB's to use thus opening up a good open debate about which brand to use. Some may notice differences in performance others may not. So use these to your discretion.

Cross Compatibility with Other Brands:

KJW, WE and HK3 are just three of the brands that copies Tokyo Marui’s Glock. The theory is that you will be able to fit the clone brands’ internal components to a TM Glock. But in retrospect, why would you want to? Marui is the crème de la crème of airsoft pistols. I suppose if you really needed to, you could swap parts but I would suggest you upgrade the broken part or get a TM replacement.

Though this is common knowledge by now, it's worth noting that KSC/KWA parts are not useable with Tokyo Marui internals. KSC/KWA's internal set up is much more complicated than Tokyo Marui's. Thus, their parts are proprietary meaning parts are specifically catered to their system.


STARK ARMS GLOCK COMPATIBILITY:

This system is not compatible with the Marui G17. It uses a Glock 18c BBU and Hammer assembly.
Even on the Glock 18c, there are still numerous things that can't be used on the Marui System. These are:

-Outer Barrel
-Slide (has different dimensions)
-Floating valve
-Floating Valve Blocker
-Front sight (although it can be modified to fit)

-Safety Serial plate
-Front screw
-Every piece of the chassis needs to be there to complete the swap
-Hammer housing
-Full auto sear (sometimes)
-Trigger to trigger bar fitment is a bit off


[/quote]


So what should I upgrade?

I almost don’t want to answer this question but I’ve been getting so much e-mails that I figure to just answer them here on a public forum.

So you’ve got a stock Tokyo Marui Glock, do ya? What should you be looking after? Let me put it this way: don’t upgrade unless you feel a drop in performance of your pistol or if something breaks. I can’t tell you how many unnecessary things I find on these Glocks that I fix. Most of the time, they are broken because the parts that the owner bought has been installed wrong or it just doesn’t marry well with other parts of the gun. Thus, the gun “doesn’t cycle properly” or “the slide gets stuck” or “this thing is eating too much gas” !?.

The GunsModify adjustable trigger, for example, can’t adjust the trigger pull because it doesn’t work with the trigger lever.

Understand that these Tokyo Marui pistols can handle green gas with minimal need to upgrade. But if you’re persistent on getting some upgrades done, here are some things to consider.

Durability:

Basic configuration:
-Slide/ Barrel Set: Metal Slide/barrel set (usually sold together)
-Enhanced recoil spring guide
-Guarder Enhanced frame (or install the full Guarder tune up kit)

For durability, just run duster gas on that sucker and it will last you a lifetime.

For use with green gas, look after your slide. If you want to run green gas with a plastic slide, install some shock buffers on your recoil spring to absorb some of the shock.

If your slide breaks while running green gas, find a metal slide replacement with the adequately powered recoil spring. A 150% is ideal for a quick a snappy return. The Shooter’s Design spring is wonderful for this.

Also, the loading nozzle tends to break with prolonged use with green has on the G17. Wait til it breaks and replace it.

On the frame, the front screw casing will almost likely be the only thing to break or if not, the first thing. The screw casing is very weak and WILL crumble under the prolonged use of green gas. For some this may take a few hundred rounds and for others it may take thousands. But rest assured, this screw casing will break at some point or another. Especially on a Glock 18c where the repeated full auto setting will come in to play and shred the casing altogether. Install, some shock buffers at the very least if you're running on stronger springs.


Power:

Basic configuration:
-Metal slide/barrel set
-High Blowoff valve
-Enhanced recoil spring and spring guide w/ enhanced hammer spring
-Tighbore Inner Barrel
-Good Airseals (piston head/bucking)
-Modified floating valve

For power, use green gas. Do all the durability upgrades. You’ll need to install a high flow blow off valve on your magazine(s) to give you that extra oomph. You may also want to look into procuring a tighter bore on your inner barrel with a good hop-up bucking to give you a slight increment on your FPS.

Accuracy:

Basic configuration:
-Tighbore Inner Barrel
-Good hop-up bucking
-Properly tuned hop-up

A good tightbore inner barrel will give the accuracy boost you need while giving you some added firepower. You’re bucking should also be looked after. I find that the stock bucking is good but the after market products greatly increased my accuracy with the G18c.

Gas consumption:

Basic Configration:
-Stock floating valve
-Enhanced piston head/lid
-Enhanced hammer spring
-Enhanced loading nozzle
-Good hop up bucking
-GOOD Tightbore

Good gas consumption is based on your pistol’s airflow, mainly the seals. The piston and floating valve will improve your gas consumption by providing a better air seal inside the loading nozzle once your magazine discharges green gas/propane or duster gas and thus prevents gas from going where it shouldn’t.

Rate of Fire (G18c):

Basic Configuration:
-High Output Blowoff valve
-Enhanced floating valve
-Enhanced piston head/lid
-Enhanced hammer spring/recoil spring
-Aluminum slide/barrel

For a higher rate of fire, you want a very light slide assembly with good airflow in your gun. The lighter you make it, the higher ROF you’ll achieve and the better the airflow, the faster the blowback. If this what you are trying to achieve, do not go for the steel barrels. It will drop your ROF because of its weight. Same goes for the metal loading nozzles. You will also want to adequately lubricate your gun to reduce the friction.


As I said, run the gun in stock form until/if something breaks. Then do your upgrades. Upgrading is not necessarily a must in airsoft pistols because you’ll have a primary gun to use. Thus, all your money will go towards your Innokatsu 2011 Supergrade version with all the tactical fixings:D.

Final Summation: (+1 Knowledge, -1000000000000 Dollars)

I probably got some these facts wrong. The basic jist of this whole article is to advise you to just be mindful of the things you are buying for your Glock. While some reputable manufacturers may boast higher quality, their parts may hinder the performance of your gun due to improper fitting.

And while I would love to answer the age-old question of “what should I upgrade”, I am afraid that without sufficient information of your personal preferences and the functionality/condition of your Glock, I cannot give a profound and meaningful answer.

You can read up on:
Smart and not so smart upgrades (repost, long).

FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

Why do I need to upgrade (or not) - with explanations!:Upgrades & Modifications to help you get started.

Though these FAQS are for different guns, the basic principle knowledge you gain from reading them is applicable and invaluable. If knowledge is power, then your power level will be ovvverrrrrr 9000!!!! after reading them. SO read read read read. If you have any questions, post them down below. Someone will be with you shortly.


http://www.imfdb.org/images/thumb/4/...-TDK_20008.jpg
This guy was my WoW character. His stats? 100% awesome

Very nice write-up. Love the RPG style attributes!!

Excellent post, especially with the list of manufacturers and quality/cross-compatibility comments. Makes we want to buy a TM Glock now just to try this.

Vote for a sticky! :)

Now I'm wondering if the compensator and grip extension from the Glock 26 Advance is available for separate purchase....then that way, you can take it off or leave it on for a concealable pistol or just a full sized one.

Also...WoW! I didn't play, but my friend did, and he said that it made his grades drop like 20% and his daily life go down the drain.....not something I think I want to experience.

+1 for sticky. Very useful.

Awesome writeup! As an owner of a TM G17, this is invaluable.

I've never seen these sold separately. Either that or i just never looked hard enough. Coincidentally though, even with this comp and extended magazine, the pistol is still relatively small. It's almost the size of a g19. The g26 is so damn small!!!!!

superb guide. Glad we have someone knowledgeable and willing to share the info with us.

One of the most entertaining guides I've read! I sure damn hope it gets stickied! Now Illusion needs to do one for the Hi-Capa! :D

He already has one and the knowledge he imparts on there is quite superior to this one. I hope this was as informative as his. Maybe...one day...just...one day.

You missed one upgrade. This:
http://gadgetking.com/wp-content/upl...C0C5/image.png
:D

I will reiterate that this is a great guide, even more so with the edits and additions.

Now, I'm just waiting for the following to occur...

A battlefield on a hot summer day. The shots fired at close range. The "whizz" of BBs flying past the target, bouncing off trees. And the shout/curse, "DAMMIT, I did ALL the MODS! Where's my +27 to hit?!?"

:rolleyes: :D

You have to be level 61 to get that stat boost :D

What do you think about the AIP hammer set for TM G17 and G18C?

This set is decent replacement, or is the only, as it contains reinforced parts made out of steel. I have both for the 18c and the 17. But having said that, they tend to be harder/heavier to move than the stock hammer assembly. Because of their material, they need to a good amount of initial break in period and grease to facilitate a strong cohesion and cooperation.

The G17's set didn't behave any differently than the stock set. The only real difference is the contact bearing on the hammer is much smoother than the stock one. It requires very good lubrication to get the slide to glide along and for the ball bearing to 'spin' fluently. Also, that bearing tends to come loose so be careful and check regularly if it's seated properly.

Compared to the GunsModify's zero hammer, I think that AIP's work better since it mimics the original Tokyo Marui hammer design. Gunsmodify had to sacrifice the ball bearing mechanism to get that extra millimeter off to get the hammer sit flush to the frame.

The G18's set requires a bit more fight to get into place inside the housing. On the one that i bought, some of the pins didn't fit the holes right. The sear is ok but again you'll need to lube because of the finish. As opposed to the slightly smoother texture of Shooter's Design stainless steel one, AIP's has a bit of a rougher finish meaning initially, the sear will be rougher to break in where are SD's can just drop and it will marry with other parts seemlessly. It's a sear. It's supposed to get worn, right?

Also, the hammer springs on these two sets are not enhanced hammers. They are not 150% strength but is the stock strength. Both of the valve knockers may need a of fiddling to get it to sit right. It was typically problematic to get into place on the 17 because the measurement was a micro milometer off.

Add,
-flared magwell
-rubber hogue grip
-lanyard attachment
-g17 custom rear grip thingy
-SD proper marking mag baseplates

-Very well done. - alex

Good read and very informative... especially the effort towards metal slides and barrel compatibility.

There's another reason you'll want to upgrade to a steel or metal mag-catch. Constant reloading of the mags will cause the plastic part to deteriorate and fail. This in turn reduces gas efficiency when the space between the gas output port and the loading nozzle increases and not delivering all the gas to the BB and BBU. The use of a larger/extended mag will only speed up this deterioration in stock plastic parts.


I also wanted to add my experience with the 5ku steel sights and the Silverback slide mounted dot sight on my G17:

- 5ku Steel Night Sights: fit in my Shooter's Design slide with some minor filing (which is quite common when you're trying to fit metal sights on a metal slide), and held the BBU in place perfectly (provided you didn't only file down one side of the rear sight to fit).

- Silverback slide mounted optics: fits with very minor filing to fit (literally a minute or less of filing to get it to fit). It should be noted that the adapter is made to fit real-steel docter sights and docter sight clones. I had to file down the front nubs on top to make it fit my NCStar Dot Sight.



And also my other experience with other parts:
- Real steel Magloc thumbrest: Fits, no modification to the part or gun is necessary. All included hardware was included to make it fit, directly from the manufacturer. Due to TM's design being slightly wider than its real steel counterpart, the thumbrest is stretched a little bit so it doesn't sit flat against the back of the grip. You can add something in between the thumbrest and the grip to keep it completely stable. I added 2 small layers of velcro to get it to sit perfectly without movement.

- This thumbrest will help with gun control during consecutive shots and will help you place your hand on the grip consistently in the same place, which will help muscle memory and accuracy. Only drawback... when you use a 1911, you'll place your thumb on the safety. lol


- Magpul Speedplates: Perfect replacement part for the mag base plates. Ensures faster and positive reloads and helps to protect your mag if it hits the ground. Only issue is gassing up the mag while these are on... nearly impossible. I suggest disabling the baseplate locking feature so it can slide down so the input valve can be easily accessed.

You could also look into:
-hop up rubbers
-hop up units


And also a quick question:
Does anyone know if the piston head/cup for the hi-capa/1911 will fit the G17? And same with the floating valve?

While this i find to be true, its also worth noting that the metal based/steel based magazine catch can alternatively were down the magazine catch groove on your magazine. And thus causes the same effect as described above. The reason why the magazine catch is made of plastic is because its easier and more maliable when in contact with the magazine than the the aforementioned upgrade parts. Which means it will preserve that groove much longer.

There are piston head sets that accomodate both hi-capa/ 1911 and G17's. Element makes one but its more geared towards the hi-capa rather than the G17 as the O-ring provides a tighter seal than ones made specifically for the G17 muzzle. Sorry I can't comment on the floating valve as I have not tried this experiment.

!?
What...in the hell?
Do these give you auto-aim and immortality?

Not quite. They give you the following abilities:

+1 to charisma (only with other Homeboys)
-5 to Intelligence
Ability to wear ballcap sideways and not properly seated

:D

TM G18c upgrade please help?
 

Wow, extremely informative post, wish I had found this earlier! I have invested/acquired almost all of my chosen upgrades for my TM 18c, but I am hoping someone can help me locate the one final part I need. Here is what I have for upgrades so far: PGC slide, Guarder 150% hammer spring & enhanced loading muzzle, and Guarder steel night sights. The last elusive/important upgrade that I want to get is the Guarder reinforced frame, the stronger plastic frame and metal threading/fitting is a must in my mind. I have tried ordering from ehobby asia but hit a wall and could not recieve them, I am going through dispute issues currently but I was hoping that someone could refer me to somebody within Canada who sells them or could aqcuire them for me. Any help/information would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

lower frames are illegal to import. get age verified and i'll tell you where you can get one.

Here is my experience with the AIP upgrades for both the G17 and G18C. G17 on the left and G18C on the right:

https://i.imgur.com/iJVjcim.jpg

The G18C was a drop in fit with no modifications required. The G17 was a bit more tricky (for me at least).

First the AIP hammer bearing was slightly larger than the stock as shown below. As such, when i pulled the slide back, I felt a bit more resistance as the bearing was larger to be pulled down. However, Im using a guarder slide which may be sitting lower compared to the stock slide. In the end, I modified a bit off the blow back housing to reduce the resistance to accomodate the larger bearing. Now I can feel little to no resistance when racking the slide back.

https://i.imgur.com/yOFPdUE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SDky8pO.jpg

The second issue with the AIP G17 upgrade parts was the sear. As shown below, the raised tabs that the trigger disengages and releases the hammer. A close inspection at both parts reveal that the stock sear has a ramp while the AIP counterpart is rounded. This resulted in a harder trigger pull as the trigger stirrup had to negotiate over the rounded edge as opposed to the ramp. This was a easy fix though.

https://i.imgur.com/Ox0KDl3.jpg

The last issue that was really bizzarre was the fact the the AIP G17 hammer set came with two (2) valve knockers that didn't quite work. I tried installing both of them and they were light striking the magazine valve and the blow back was weak. However, swapping them out with the SD valve knocker worked much better, blowback was more consistent and harder.

This is very interesting and loving the different perspective.
My hammer bearing wasn't as troublesome. I find that once you grease it up it dramatically increases the fluidity of the blowback. I didn't have to mod anything and didn't cause any wear on my BBU. I found that once greased up, it performed just like the stock bearing. But this is very interesting indeed.

I installed a smaller bearing on my set just to be safe though.

How did you find the G18c's version in terms of performance? Was your knocker troublesome as well?

The G18C's trigger/hammer set was perfect. Complete drop in and no difficulties/modding needed for the valve knocker..

For the AIP G17 bearing, did you grease up the outside of the bearing or did you use bearing oils for the balls in the bearing?

i had to use oil based lubricants to get inside. the grease that i was using was a bit thick and caused a little friction when the bearing spun. put it a small amount in an eye dropper and off it went.

although i agree with you. that aip bearing is bigger than it needs to. i replaced it with an 8mm bearing to avoid future damage.

Just Tried the A+ Reaps on the G17.

Yeah. It's ok. Did sorta increase the range but didn't do much for accuracy. The only thing cool about it is that I gained about 15 to 25 additional FPS.

Anybody else?

did you use .20g bbs? Does it work with 0.20g bbs?

i was using my old bag of Excel .25's. Gained about 17 meters from a 20 meter target clearance. Power was boosted from a stock G17 (no upgrades) 275Fps to top out around 306fps on those .25's. I fitted the TK Twist on it gained a few increments on FPS.

Accuracy wise, the thing had a slight improvement and made my groupings tighter maybe around 4-6cm closer to each other from 20 meters with the stock inner barrel. The TK Twist didn't really make a difference based on my observations. Although, others may have a different experience altogether.

and yes it will work with 20s. Tried it but accuracy on .20s is poor at 25 meters. So I switch to 25's. :) I think they did tests with .20s on youtube if want a better example.

Well e-luder, I just installed the PGC metal slide and barrel as per your recommendations. Everything fit perfect except for the rear sight block which was a little bit of a bitch to get in. Gun cycles very well with the Guarder 150% recoil spring in there. Thanks for the guide again and keep 'er going!

Put some shock buffers on that thing and you're ready to go go go!
Protect you're front screw post at all costs!!! 2 of my frames just obliterated my screw posts and I'm super angry right now...

Where do you find shock buffers for these in Canada? I've only seen the Nine Ball recoil spring and buffer setup offered overseas. I remember airsoftparts.ca used to have them but they are gone now from the stock list.

Seeing as how I may be purchasing a Glock as my first sidearm.... I'm really glad you made this write-up, it is incredibly useful!

Havent seen one in Canada for a while. ehobby had some left. i just put in a a big prder for them and some orher parts. :)

The permanant fix is i to JB WEld you're inner front chassis to the frame. This should distribute the weight of the slide's force to the frame. the downside is tou wont be able to take your chasis off since it'll be 'welded' to the frame.

Thank you for this awesome guide! I am a complete noobie and I recently bought a TM Glock 18c after dreaming about it for a year. I had a few questions, and would really appreciate your responses.

1) How do I JR weld my front screw post (what is this.. sorry)?
2) How can I install shock buffers on my recoil spring? Where can I buy buffers?

I would like to keep my gun in stock condition (can't afford upgrades) but would like to use propane gas due to its cheaper price (i've used two bottles of duster gas but its really expensive and finding the 134a version is so hard now)

Your help is most appreciated! Thank you!

JB Weld. It's a metal based epoxy that has very good bonding properties for this sort of application. You can find it in the auto section of Canadian Tire or Walmart.

1). JB Weld can be bought at your local hardware shop. It's pretty much like putty and glue mixed into one. lol.

You have to disassemble your front chasis (the part where the slide rails are) and putting the JB Welding under neath. This method was invented and popularized by another ASC User with the callsign RacingManiac. The idea is to offshoot the brute kinetic force of the slide movement directly onto the chassis, skipping the front screw all together. By JB Welding the frame to the chassis, it will remove the stress from the front screw itself since the chassis will no longer be held in place by that screw. I've experimented with other methods, but this method seems to work best. I'm still trying to get it right, TBH.

PLEASE NOTE THAT ONCE YOU JB WELD, YOU WILL PERMANENTLY AFFIX YOUR CHASIS TO YOUR FRAME. YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO TAKE THEM APART ONCE YOU LET THEM BOND TOGETHER.

2). Unfortunately, without the proper age verification, I can not disclose information regarding acquisition of anything airsoft. Forum rules...unless someone corrects me and in which case I will answer your question. In any case, a typical shock absorption system will look something like this that I custom made for a client of mine:

Attachment 32046

The side effect of having shock buffers on a spring guide (depending on how much you put on) is that it will disengage your slide catch (short stroking). You'll have to count your shots or BB trace every shot to know when the magazine is empty.

This DOES NOT guarantee the safety of your screw post but it will pro long its longetivity and the longevity of the stock slide since the force of the slide movements will be dampened.

3). If you're running a stock form with green gas, I definitely suggest installing some shock buffers. You will break your front screw post running on Green Gas especially at the full-auto rate of fire of your G18c.

But you may want to consider switching your slide to a metal one just because if it's not that screw post that messes up, it's the slide.

If you want to run on stock without mods, keep using duster gas. I think The Source carries some cheap ones. Though it's been a while since I made a visit there. They're dodgy little bastards...

Thank you so much for your response!

It clear now that I should upgrade my gun. The much cheaper cost of propane will save me money over time.

I've decided to purchase the following:
- PGC CNC Glock 18C Metal Slide Set
- FIREFLY Cylinder Valve
- Guarder Enhanced Recoil Spring Guide

If you don't mind, could you please answer a few more questions:

1) Are these upgrades (after JB welding) enough to use propane on my gun for a long time?

2) Are magazine high output valves necessary for the heavier slide? Is it possible for me to bore the original valve holes larger for similar results?

Thank you so much again for sharing your knowledge!

1) Yes, these upgrades are sufficient for use with propane/green gas. The only thing I would add to your list is an enhanced loading nozzle. With a metal cylinder valve, the stock loading nozzle may crack under the pressure of the gas. The stock nozzle is designed for use with the weaker plastic valve. Using a metal may not necessarily break this stock nozzle but will speed up its deterioration. The Guarder replacement is a sufficient replacement and has less flex and generally lasts longer with the Firefly Rocket valve you plan on installing. That setup has lasted me more than a year and its still going strong. You may also want to invest in a few extra piston heads by Guarder as these are very brittle and tends to be the first to break.

2) High output blowoff valve are not really necessary to move your metal slide. What makes it 'move' is primarily the recoil spring and the airseals/airflow of your gun. You can put a stock recoil spring on metal slide with a high blowoff valve and the gun still wont have a nice crisp slide return than a stock valve with an upgraded recoil spring. Also, for maximum gas output with these blowoff valves, you'll need a stronger hammer spring to create an efficient valve strike.

Your PGC slide and barrel set is lightweight aluminum. It's even further lightened by having a ported topside. You won't need a upgrade your blowoff valve but you will need to, at least, put some buffers on your recoil spring guide especially if its a strengthened spring. Or if you don't mind a sluggish slide return, purchase the NineBall recoil spring and spring guide with the buffers already preinstalled. The spring is not strengthened and shock buffers short strokes your pistol. This is designed for use with the stock plastic slide that's why you won't get a nice slide return like you would on the stronger Guarder springs.

There is no way to check to status of that screw post once you JB Weld your chassis to your frame since it will bond the two together. How long your pistol will last depends solely on how vigilant you maintain it. Lubrication, cleaning, and spotting any performance drops and so on, all contribute to its longevity. Thus, I can not answer "how long your pistol will last" based on this philosophy but I can tell you that the set-up you described above will be enough for you to run your pistol on green gas.

I've been a lurker all this time and found this guide very very useful!

I have just installed the following parts:

Gunsmodify Slide Kit (includes the tritium sight and matching tags)
Nineball Feather light BBU
Guarder Enhanced Loading Nozzle
Guarder Enhanced Piston Lid
Guarder Reinforced Frame
Nineball 6.03mm Tight Bore Barrel
A+ Studio Hopup Rubber

Now with the firefly rocket valve, I could only shoot 10 rounds with it so I changed it back to factory and now the gun is shooting efficiently like it used to.

Loving every moment of it at the moment and it really looks like a real 18C.

What he said. Love the way you simplified it using RPG style attributes. :)

Does anyone know if RS sights fit on the New World Order Commemorative slide? Particularly TruGlo ones.

Don't think so.

The rear sight of the TM Glock needs to accommodate the screw that holds the BBU housing into place. Without the sight post, the screw has nothing to latch onto. Thus, it has a larger rear sight post than RS sights. That rear sight post also locks the BBU into place from the top side of the slide preventing the BBU from moving back and forth. The RS TruGlow, if I recall, can't accommodate that screw.

Unless, you modify it or something. AFAIK, KSC/KWA Glocks were the only ones that can take some RS parts. But I could be wrong.

After two grusome years I couldn't take NOT owning a glock anymore. Picked up my third (2 already long gone) tm glock 17. Reasonable price used with an authentic GL-10 :)

Took out the BBU to install the nightsights.
Noticed there is only ONE nozzle return spring. (two groves provided)
I seem to recall there is supposed to be another.
Someone comfirm this for me please?

there is only suppose to be one spring in there. the other side has a bigger notch so the second spring wont fit in there unless you cut it to length.

plus there's no groove in the top of the nozzle. So even if you're not sure which side the spring is supposed to be in, it only fits on the one side. If you put in the wrong side the spring would not sit flush with the BBU.

When I first took mine apart and re-assembled it I thought I was going crazy too when I only found one spring!

After inspection you are both correct. One of the groves has a small peice that would interfere with the springs function if yada yada we all get it.....

Time to drain my bank account on upgrades now.

Installed a systema inner barrel today. Works quite well. Noticed you didnt have this one on the initial list.

-alex

Hi guys,

I have recently acquired a Glock 17 with Guarder frame and NWO Commemorative Slide. However I am having issues with cycling. I have cleaned and lubed everything but the slide just won't cycle smoothly. It appears the BBU is getting caught on the hammer bearing and the bit in front of the bearing. Sometimes the slide will go all the way back and forward, resetting the trigger. Other times it won't go all the way back and you have to cock the slide to reset it.

I have tried to file the bit of the BBU which comes into contact with the hammer but it is has only improved it slightly and i'm not sure I feel comfortable removing anymore. Does anyone have any advice?

Was your glock well used before you installed these parts? Can you open it up and take a picture where the top and lower meet?

Do you have any other upgrade parts in the gun? Recoil Spring? Hammer spring?

The stock recoil spring may not be strong enough to return the slide back to battery, and an upgraded hammer spring may cause additional pressure to the blowback housing causing the slide stick.

Thank you for the reply. I actually got the Glock second hand so I am not sure but there appears to be a little wear. The slide an frame seem quite new. I will get some pictures very shortly to show you. I believe apart from this the Glock is standard TM.

That Guarder slide is a troublesome one. The older 2010 version that is made of the weaker aluminum has trouble mating to the Guarder frame. Often times, the underside side of the slide (the part where it "touches" the frame) tends have friction with the frame near the front (around the takedown lever). Also, a lot of Guarder slides have problems with the slide rail guide. Slight sanding of the rail guides is needed for maximum cycling.

You'll need to sand to it down to eliminate any possibility of any friction occurring. I've run into the same problem with that specific slide and sanding both areas fixed it.

For the most part, the hammer bearing is quite easy to retract. It should spin and being a circular object, shouldn't catch onto your BBU provided it's properly lubed. It should "roll" along your bbu. You can switch to a smaller hammer bearing but you'll have trouble getting the sear to lock onto your hammer even if it cycles fully with a smaller bearing. Thus the result of this is the hammer staying uncocked at all times.

Do everything that p.phresh said. Install the hammer springs correctly and all that jazz. and if your still having problems, sand the slide where I've told you.

Thank you guys,

I have some pictures here (albeit not very good ones) which shows where the slide is sticking:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7267/7...24fe8fa9_z.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8283/7...4f64a7b8_z.jpg
Note the gap between the slide and frame here. It seems as though the hammer is pushing the slide upwards as it comes back.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7279/7...94759e0a_z.jpg
(I forgot to put the hammer screw back in but it did it with it in anyway)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7...3b58df24_z.jpg
You can where I filed here. That is where it looked and felt like it was catching.

I also have a video here aswell if that helps:
http://youtu.be/PKWH9yfLEpE

I will look at getting an enhanced recoil spring too and sand around the slide rails and see what happens.

Thanks again for your help, mucho appreciated!

One more thing. I have not got a mag catch spring and it is the hardest part to acquire, ever. I was just wondering if someone would be so kind as to take a picture of their TM G17 mag release spring and provide measurements for it as I think I am just going to make my own. It would be HUGELY appreciated.

I must say this thread has been mighty helpful. Big thanks to all, especially e-luder for the write up.

the strenghtened recoil spring should fix this. the recoil spring you are using is not strong enogh carry your slide. what is happening in your video is a common issue and there is no need to modify the bbu unless you want the gun to cycle the gun more fluently. or you can just get a smaller hammer bearing. you can keep filing at the BBU but it wont solve the problem but the spring will. Plus, if you go too far, the bbu wont be able to keep the hammer down.

for the mag catch spring, you can order replacement springs online. MAG makes one amd contains all the little springs including what you are looking for.

google, my friend. Google.

My buddy just put in an order with WGC and I got a Guarder enhanced recoil spring, AIP 8mm hammer bearing and a MAG replacement spring set which i ordered for a different reason. However the set doesn't seem to include the mad catch spring? I have literally googled forever trying to find one!

Sorry about that. I forgot that it didn't come with one. Some tech eh? lol.

Anyways, I found it. Just google harder. Since your not Age verified, I can not disclose the direct link to the part as it goes against forum rules. Sorry man.

Lol. Ah man that sucks! I'm from the UK aswell so I cant be verified. Can I ask, is it called a mag catch spring or a mag release spring? Even searching for the part number (G17-28) comes up with nothing!

I had the same problem with my guarder slide, will be staying away from them if I do get another Glock. I fixed mine by sanding the BBU, but only enough that it was still able to push down and lock the hammer. I stripped all the internals from the slide leaving only the BBU and I manually cycled the gun with my hand to identify the exact contact point causing the drag. I sanded it slowly until I got the smoothness I desired. I also sanded the lugs on the frame and polished them to ensure that minimal friction was present and used 2 recoil springs together.

The other thing is, I upgraded to the AIP steel trigger kit (not sure if its the same as the 8mm bearing that you're getting) and the included bearing is slightly larger with the stock counterpart which makes pushing it backwards via the slide even harder. Either opt out with a smaller bearing or mod your BBU. I only tend to mod parts that I know I can have access to in case if I screw up, but luckily, I didn't.

Actually, the 8mm hammer bearing doesn't work with the AIP hammer set. Even the stock hammer bearing can't lock the hammer to the sear. It was a strange discovery.

The interaction point and the measurements between the hammer and sear is a bit "off" than the stock one because of the material it's made out of. It's a bit thicker. That's why the hammer bearing on the AIP set is so huge.

I've installed dozens of these hammer sets alongside the 8mm bearing and they all seem to have the same story. But it may be different from his experience.

Its come to my knowledge that the KJW Glock 23 is compatible with the TM Glock parts. KJW are very very good when it comes to spare parts. I just ordered myself a mag catch spring direct from them for the princely sum of $3.20 including shipping.

does the slide make contact with the lower frame? Looks like it in the first picture.

If you can't slide a piece of paper through there freely, I'd start sanding the bottom of the slide. Just take a block of wood and some fine grit sandpaper and place the slide on top and sand it down until there's enough clearance.

I had to do that for my shooter's design slide on my G17.

I have a TM 18C. Long story short the spring for the fire selector is now lost to the training area of CFB Petawawa. Part# 18C-19. Can anyone point me in the right direction for getting this rather obscure part?

Update:

Just tested the slide internals of WE and HK Glocks on a TM stock, Guarder, and Shooter's Design Slide.

This won't be a surprise to you guys but the the internals all work on the different slide combinations. But as expected, the Guarder slide fought the BBU a bit on the G18c. Specifically, the selector doesn't move fluently. In fact, it needed a bit of force to move from full auto to semi.

On the G17, the sights were a bit finicky as the WE sights used a bigger screw and thus didn't fit the stock sight properly. At least in my case.

The Hop up unit on the WE internals comes pre-kitted with an 03 tightbore. Nice little feature. The inner barrel wasn't creating any wobble inside the outer barrel on the metal ones but the stock outerbarrel had a bit of wobble. You'l need some sort of O-ring to hold the inner in place. This is on both guns.

The WE stock slide assembly also yields a bit more power than a stock TM assembly. It doesn't have the best bucking or piston head but the floating valve is stronger than most of the aftermarket plastic valves on the market. WHich is a good thing...

Mating the Lower assembly to the WE upper is quite superb. I was worried that the Stock G17's hammer bearing would create problems with the WE BBU but I found that they melded well.

I have yet to test out WE Lower assembly with TM Stock parts. I will update soon!!!

Thanks for the heads up. Looking forward to your next update :)

Hi guys, I have lurked the first page for a while, and I have come to notice that you know a lot about the mechanisms and can help me out with a problem.

Long story short: My we glock 17 worked and now it not working properly.


Basically my gas efficiency has decreased drastically, and the BBU mound gets stuck on the hammer bearing. My glock was fully functioning before and working fine before this started happening.

Here is a quote from a message that I sent another user:


I have searched hours online for a detailed mechanism guide / videos for the glocks, and I have not found anything yet! Where did you learn your stuff?

Anyways I started thinking about it more and I ruled some things out.

~The same amount of gas is being out in the mags so the magazines can be ruled out. (I just bought a brand new army magazine and the same problems happen with it.

SO this means that the problem has to lie within the hammer assembly or the upper bbu.

Another problem is I dont understand how the bbu works and all of the springs/ valvues up top work. Can you explain to me what each peice in the bbu does?

Also, can you explain what the hell does the hammer bearing does and why does it have to be rotated?

I thought about it and I forget that when the gun is fired, the bbu pushes back on the hammer and bearing, so even if it is sticking up higher, the slide isnt affected until the slide is sent back, and the mound gets stuck on the bearing.

That seems like a lot, so I will simplify my request down.

1. Explanation of the bbu / upper assembly gas parts.
2. Explanation of the hammer bearing.
3. The only purpose of the sear is to lock down the hammer and allow the trigger bar to engage it right?
4. Explanation of an enhanced hammer spring? Does it hit the valvue harder?


Thanks for your time/ advice, and hopefully I can get my gun up and running again!


PS: It is not a grease or lube problem, I just redid the whole thing yesterday, same issue!

IT sounds like you've jusy blown your piston head or you've cracked or broken something inside your BBU. Take it apart and inspect every part carefully. Cracks are easy to miss in poor lighting.

But to be honest, I'm not surprised that this came up. My two WE Glocks have the same problem. Both a G17 and a G19.

The problem you are experiencing is that there is too much wasted gas. There no real "blowback" to the gun because simply put, gas can't even make it into the upper assembly.. or at least not enough of it. This is by by WE's design of the slide itself. The BBU is too embedded within the slide that there is a lot of room between the magazine and the loading muzzle, thereby giving the gas expelled from the magazine more room to disperse while it is on its way to the loading muzzle.

The second problem I've noticed is that the loading muzzle itself doesn't fully return to it's resting position and thereby misaligning the whole in which gas enters the BBU on the loading muzzle.

Gas efficiency sucks on these things because whatever pot metal mixture WE used for the slide is too heavy. Thus more gas is needed to move it and complete a full cycle.

These are both issues found in both my WE Glocks. Am starting to think that this may be the case with their whole Glock line in general. But I could just have gotten the bad ones out of the whole production line. Who knows. These are hard problems to fix because they require a lot of playing around with the internals.

but I'll try to give you a few POSSIBLE solutions and what I did to get them working properly on MY gun.
This is going to get confusing so bare with me while reading.

http://i33.tinypic.com/1zoz4va.jpg

The BBU and it's internals explained:

The whole blowback assembly's function is two folds: 1). To provide the bb with adequate propulsion and 2). To reset the valve knocker while simultaneously chambering the next round. so here is each part and what they do:

The Loading muzzle (part g26-6):

The loading muzzle's function is two folds: 1) to push the bb out of the barrel and chamber the next round and 2) to create blowback so that the slide can reset the hammer to the ready fire position.

The arm on the loading muzzle chambers the next round by pushing the next BB out of the feedlips (part g26-62) on the magazine. The whole in the front directs air that pushes the bb. the bottom whole is where air passes through from the magazine.

When the gun is fired, the loading muzzle tends to stick to the hop up chamber until the whole slide pulls it away. There is a spring located atop the loading muzzle that returns it to it's resting position when the "blowback" occurs. This is a very important part as it may contribute to the problem at hand by not fully returning the muzzle and causing the misalignment mentioned above.

The Floating valve and plunger spring (Part G26-8 and Part G26-7):

This is located inside the loading muzzle and is the heart of the BBU. The function of the floating valve is to distribute the air from the magazine to push the bb out and to create blowback.

You'll notice that the floating valve has several holes cut into it and down the middle. This is to direct air towards the BB.
Understand that much more force is needed to move a metal assembly and all its internal parts (the slide) than a 0.20 gram piece of spherical plastic.

At some point during the cycle, the floating valve will completely close off the front part of the loading muzzle by the negative pressures in created when the BB travels and exits the inner barrel, cutting off airflow to that section and redirecting the remaining air to the rear of the BBU.

The plunger spring returns the floating valve to it's original position, ready for the next trigger pull.

The Piston Head (part G17-4 and Part g175):

The piston head prevents or minimizes the amount of air that escapes the loading muzzle on the rear side of the BBU. Essentially, without the piston head, you can't achieve "gas compression" since all the air escapes. Know that air will tend to escape which ever way it can.

The hop Up bucking (Parts: G26-24):

This acts exactly like a piston head except it's found on the front of the upper assembly. It also adjusts the "hop" on the BB by making the BB spin making it easier for it to splice through the air.

That's all that really matters for your question.

The hammer bearing's function, again, is two folds: 1) to lock the hammer to the sear and 2), provide a "cushion" to the BBU when the hammer is released.

Understand, that your hammer doesn't actually hit the BBU as hard. That's why, when compared to the latter KSC models that DO hit the BBU, the Marui's hammer doesn't have much wear. This is all possible because of that hammer bearing.

The BBU is also not the main culprit when the hammer is reset. The Hammer bearing is. Here's a cool experiment: try firing the gun without the hammer bearing and see if it does reset and lock the hammer to sear.

The sear is the main contact point between the front of the gun to rear. Without it you can't fire the gun. And yes the sear does lock to the hammer. The purpose of this is stop the valve knocker from hitting the blowoff valve on the magazine over and over again whether you want it to or not.

An enhanced hammer spring creates a higher velocity of the hammer when the sear releases it. This in turn creates a much more powerful strike from the valve knocker to the blowoff valve on the magazine. This opens the blowoff valve much more and allows more air to escape from the magazine.

The enahnced hammer spring also a tendency to create more resistance to the slide when it is cycling. This is because the enhanced hammer spring has a higher tension.

So how does this all come together to create "a full cycle"?

This happens in less than a second or two so the details may be a bit shotty at best. But in general, this is what happens:

1). First, the gun is racked and the hammer is in a ready fire state. The valve knocker is ready to hit the valve on the magazine.

2). The trigger is pulled and the trigger transfer bar pushes the sear back and releases the hammer.

3). the Hammer, along with the valve knocker, dart forward and hits the valve on the magazine, releasing gas.

4). Gas is expelled from the magazine and enters the BBU via the bottom hole of the loading muzzle.

5A). The BB begins its travel down the inner barrel.

5B). The BB exits the barrel. The floating valve is closed due to negative pressure, The piston head and the head of the floating valve create the necessary gas compression long enough to "blow" the whole slide assembly backwards. The slide begins it's travel backwards. (Some may disagree with 6A and 6b occuring in different times. But in general, it's what happens)

6). The slide continues its travel backwards.

7). As the slide is on its path, it trips the disconnector and the trigger transfer bar but doesn't reset the valve knocker nor the hammer to a ready fire position.

8). The hammer bearing and the hammer are pushed backed.

9). Just before the slide comes to a stop, the hammer is push down completely and the sear latches and locks it into a ready fire state through the hammer bearing. The valve knocker is reset.

10). The recoil spring pulls the whole slide assembley forward.

11). As the slides travels forward, the arm on the loading muzzle pushes the next bb into the hop up unit, chambering the next round.

12). The slide returns to full battery and the gun is ready for the next trigger pull.

Possible solutions for your problem:
As far as my tests go, I can only surmise the problem occurs somewhere between steps 4 to 6B. SO here are a few suggestions to consider:

Option 1:

While it may be true that the problem is not with the magazine. Do not be so quick to rule it out.

Even though gas is released consistently from whatever magazine you put in there, you have to wonder where the hell all that gas goes.

Alot of the times, a gun loses air compression solely for the fact that the magazine is not sitting correctly inside the magazine chamber. This causes a misalignment with the bottom whole of the loading muzzle.

Don't you wonder why the gun doesn't even move a single centimeter when the gun vents out all the gas with one trigger pull? In theory it should, right?That's because the gas is not directed into the loading muzzle at all.

There is either too much space between the magazine and the loading muzzle thus gas escapes everywhere before it reaches the loading muzzle or the loading muzzle itselft is not fully returning to where it should be (remember the spring I mentioned? yeah that guy...). This is all happening in step 4 above.

the fix is to get a new magazine catch to sit the magazine properly.

or you can do this:

You can bring your BBU closer to the magazine rubber whole thingy (the rectangular whole atop the mag) by putting a small amount of duct tape inside your slide, right above where the top of BBU will sit. You bring the bbu closer to the magazing rubber gas route thereby eliminating the uneccessary gas discharge and directing the gas directly into the Nozzle. dont put too much tape though. if you do, you cause the bbbu to be too close to the magazine rubber and wear it down even further. And also, the guide rails' path will be blocked by the bbu and the slide wont cycle at all. also the loading arm on the nozzle will jam the gun if there is too much tape.

You also don't want to put too much because duct tape is very malleable. When you tighten the rear screw to bolt the BBU to the slide, the pressure it creates is exacted upon the rest of the BBU and therefore cause too much friction on the loading muzzle. The BBU housing is not a closed off area like the KSC Glock BBU where this method wont affect the loading muzzle as much. In fact, if you put too much, the duct tape will actually take the shape of the grooves on the BBU housing and the loading muzzle won't move at all...I hope you know what I mean. The harder way is to put the duct tape where the rear screw is so you ont have to worry about the muzzle as much.

Essentially, if you are familliar with the shimming process of an AEG Gearbox, it's almost the same effect and process.

Or you can take apart your magazines and bring the air nozzle closer to the BBU. Same effect. Just a different part of the gun.

Option 2:

Is to check everything inside your BBU. Make sure nothing is cracked and nothing is broken.

My suggestion is to get a good piston head to get a better airseal inside your BBU. This will help conserve however much gas is in the BBU and effectively creating a good, crisp cycle.

Option 3:

Sand or file down the interaction point of the hammer bearing on the BBU (where the hammer bearing appears to be catching) and smoothen it out with polish or something.

Dn't go too far though. If you take too much off, the hammer bearing will become useless.

Option 4:

Buy a smaller hammer bearing. I have a 8mm bearing installed on mine and I've never had any iissues at all.

You gun jammed at the end because there wasn't enough blowback to pull the loading muzzle apart from the hop up unit. Once you create more gas flow, it will seldom happen.

Also, the gun vents all the gas because the slide doesn't travel back enough to reset the hammer and valve knocker. It's kind of an oxymoron or a paradox. This means that valve knocker will stay pushing unto the blowoff valve until either the mag runs out or you manually cocked the gun.

I can also be that your magazine is just cold....

I apologize if I can't help you further. It's really hard to diagnose without the gun in front of me.

Anyways, hope it somewhat helps.

WOW, I did not expect such a detailed response in short notice, thanks!

There are a few things I still don't understand.

Can you explain a little more on how the hammer bearing is used to lock down the sear? I have not taken apart my hammer assembly yet so I have not seen the full sear / mechanism but I dont understand how it could help with locking down the hammer. From my perspective, all I see is the little notch in the hammer getting stuck on the sear. How does the little bearing on the opposite side help lock it down?

When you say that the hammer bearing provides a cushion to the hammer, do you mean when the trigger is pulled and the hammer is released and strikes the back of the bbu?

Is the small piece of plastic that screws into the nozzle just there to make sure that the floating valve does not go back to far and to direct air flow to the back?

I noticed that on the piston in the bbu, there is a small piece of rubber attached to the bottom. What function does this piece serve?

One more thing, I dont really understand how the blowback works. Does the gas that is propelled towards the back of the bbu stay in the air nozzle, and how does it propel the slide back?

My gun worked fine before, even in the winter, so it has to be something.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that my mags are warm to start out with, but after shooting them, they feel FREEZING, super cold, complete difference.

Also yesterday when I was tinkering with the bbu, I noticed that even with the screw fully tightened for the piston head, it still wobbled a bit. I put a tiny o ring under the piston head, but the problem was still happening.

Thanks for all of the help.

Again this will get confusing so I will try to be as clear and concise as I can be.

"Blowback" explained.

Let's step back from airsoft for a moment.

Picture a sailboat in the middle of the ocean fighting against a strong current. The boat wants to move backwards but the current is moving it forwards. That sailboat will move where the current is directing it, correct?

Now let's add the element of wind going in the opposite direction of the current. Let's also say that the boat has its sails up to catch the wind and propel it backwards, where it wants to go.

If the wind is strong enough to combat the current, the boat will overpower the current and thus will move backward, where it wants to go. Now let's say that the wind has died down. Well, the current then takes the boat over again, right? So therefore the boat will "return" to same direction as the current.

This is the same science that happens inside the BBU and how it creates "blowback" or how the gun "blows" the slide backwards.

So let's replace everything in this analogy with the parts of an airsoft pistol. This equation then becomes like this:

The boat is your BBH (part g17-8) (not to be confused with "BBU", BBH is the metal casing everything is contained in)
The sail is your piston head (part g17-4 and g17-5)
The current is your recoil spring (part: g17-16)
The ocean is your WHOLE gun
The wind is the gas expelled from the magazine

So let's your in step 5B in the slide cycle (see previous post for reference) and the floating valve has closed off the airway to the BB. That part is done.

If we change the words around in my analogy, It will read something like this:

"Picture a slide/BBH in the middle of the gun fighting against a strong recoil spring. The slide/BBH wants to move backwards but the recoil spring is moving it forwards. That slide/BBH will move where the recoil spring pulls it, correct?

Now let's add the element of gas going in the opposite direction of the recoil spring. Let's also say that the BBH has its piston head up to catch the gas and propel it backwards, where it wants to go.

If the gas is strong enough to combat the recoil spring, the BBH/slide will overpower the recoil spring and thus will move backwards (or in the opposite direction of the recoil spring). Now let's say that the gas has died down. Well, the recoil spring then re-takes the BBH/Slide over again, right? and therefore slide will "return" to same direction as the recoil spring."


You can tweak the story a bit more to make it more coherent but that's the best I can do in terms of story telling. lol.

Anyways, when the floating valve closes the airway to the BB, all of the remaining gas from the magazine that didn't make it through to the BB gets channelled towards the piston head. As more gas is expelled in that direction, and provided the piston head is not busted, there is enough force is created by the current of the gas to overpower the recoil spring and physically "blow" the whole slide assembly backwards. The gas the doesn't stay in the loading muzzle strictly speaking but slowly "leaks" around the piston head or back out of the loading muzzle hole where it came from. If the gas did stay in there, the piston head and the loading muzzle will explode because of the pressure.

That is essentially what is happening inside the loading muzzle. Think of the boat!!!!!!!

The Hammer Bearing explained:

Again, I re-iterate that the function of the hammer bearing is two folds: 1). To push the hammer down so the sear can lock it 2). To cushion the hammer strike on the BBH

1) To push the hammer down so the sear can lock it

Your WE Glock is, in essence, is a Tokyo Marui design. Thus, the BBH is the same.

The design choice by Marui to incorporate a hammer bearing is quite ingenius.

Understand that the BBH, itself, can't push the hammer far enough for the sear to lock it back. Therefore, Marui incorporated the hammer bearing to perform this task. Remember the experiment I told you about? the one where you fire the gun without the bearing? try it and see what happens. You'll understand better.

How it happens is this:

There is a nub on the left side of the side of the BBH. This nub is what interacts with the hammer bearing. The nub protrudes enough so that when the hammer is down, the hammer bearing can add enough force and push the hammer further down where the sear can lock it into place.

You need the hammer bearing. If you don't want it catching to the nub, just buy s a smaller hammer bearing or round off the corner of the nub a tiny bit by filing it so that it's easier for the hammer bearing to hump over (sorta like a speed bump). After all, it's easier to get over a rounded corner than a sharp one right?

That's pretty much it. It's hard to explain without pictures so I will try for another analogy.

Suppose you are trying to hang from some monkey bars but you are too short and can't reach them. Then a magical chair appears before you. You take the chair and place beneath the monkey bars. You climb on it and boom. You're hanging off the monkey bars like the little kid you are.

The hammer bearing is the magic chair. you are the hammer and the monkey bars are the sear. Without the chair, you weren't able to reach or "lock" onto the monkey bars. Get it? heh.

Yes.

This is your valve blocker. It's function is to basically make sure that the floating valve and it's holes are aligned with the hole on the loading muzzle. And like you said, it prevents the floating valve from going too far back.

If you mean the piston head, then it's function is to act as the "sail" of the slide and stops the gas from expelling backaswards.

In the stock form, the piston head has two parts: the first is the actual "sail" that traps the air inside; the second is the supporting o-ring that helps prevent damage to the sail by equalizing the strength of the surface area of the sail which the gas hits.

That's typical of any GBB, particularly WE's Hi-capa GBB pistols. Nothing much you can do unless you buy a new piston head.

Again, there's not much you can do with that.
But I can only surmise that one of the causes is the expanding gasses flowing around your magazine when the BBU doesn't align with the air nozzle on your magazine.

In your video, you asked why the trigger bar needs a nub. The nub is needed to push the trigger bar down when the slide is cycling. If the trigger bar isn't pushed down, the sear won't lock to hammer. There is another nub beneath the nub you see facing the sear. That nub is responsible for spacing the sear apart from the hammer. Essentially, the trigger bar jams the sear so that there is no friction between the hammer and sear when the slide is is pushing the hammer down. the top nub clears the jam and the sear snaps to the hammer.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...otocopy2-2.jpg

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy-1.jpg
This is when the trigger bar is "up" or the nub is "up". Notice how far the sear is and notice the little rectangular tab and how it is on a slight angle. At this point, the sear can't lock onto the hammer because it can't reach it.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...er/photo-2.jpg
This is when the nub is "down". Notice the position of sear (the silver thing) and notice that the silver tab is now parallel to the trigger bar. This is when the sear is locked unto the hammer

You need the top nub (the one that interacts with the slide) because in all retrospect, there is no other way to trip the trigger bar. Or there is no other place to put it where something will push it down while it simultaneously interacts with the sear.

If the trigger bar doesn't get pushed down, there will be too much space between the sear and hammer therefore the sear won't reach the hammer to lock it and thus the hammer will always stay uncocked.

If that nub is getting caught on the BBH, you can file the corner of the part of the BBH where the nub hits. Same process like you did with the hammer bearing.

If the you want to bend the trigger bar, bend the part beside the magazine chamber (the long part where nothing happens) towards the frame. DO IT VERY GENTLY AND EVeR SO VERY LIGHTLY. the trigger bar is very frail and will break in half if you bend too much too fast.

My suggestion is to come heavy with pictures of every single ppart so I can see what your set up looks like.

Did you check every single piece of your BBU for damages?

Once again, thanks for the super response.

I am super busy this week, so I will have to give a more detailed response tomorrow or Saturday, and I will have to reread yours.

I understand the purpose of the hammer bearing now. All it does is give the extra "oomph" so that the hammer can lock down. So essentially it does not have to be a bearing, like the guns zero hammer.

I put two pieces of duct tape on the top of the bbu, three was to many because the gun wouldn't rack smoothly. With two there is just enough clearance.

And what do you know, performance immediately increased.

Compared to the stock performance and efficiency, its at about 3/4 while before it was at about 1/4.

I am assuming this means my mags are sitting to low?

Pictures to come...

I actually don't recommend you buying the GunsModify Zero Hammer. It takes a lot of breaking in and minor modifications to function properly. It needs to be worked in extensively.

The reason why Tokyo Marui uses bearings is because it is much easier and more fluent than the zero hammer. The Zero Hammer tends to create more friction on the BBH because it has to GLIDE along the surface rather than SPIN along. Think of a tire versus a sled. Would you rather sled down a paved road or roll in your car or bike? Which would be more effective and which would have greater mileage before breaking?

The Marui Glock 18c has a similar technology to the Zero Hammer and it is not as effective as the hammer bearing on the G17. I've broken that piece many times on my G18c and are super hard to acquire.

Again, if you are worried about the hammer bearing sticking, buy a smaller one. An 8mm size should do the trick.

Or

You can mod your BBH a little to make sure that the bearing doesn't get caught. Really, all you need to worry about is to make it easier for the hammer bearing to hump over the nub on the BBH, which is where all the friction occurs. After it gets over it, then the slide is free to move more fluently.

That would be the right assumption and I would think the same thing.
To check, insert your magazine and allow the magazine catch to lock it into place. THen push the mag even further. If the magazine can be pushed further or if there is still room to give, then yes, the magazine will be sitting too low and is causing the loss of air pressure in the BBU.

You can fix this by buying a new magazine catch or adding some duct tape on the notch where the magazine catch locks the mag. It's on the side of the magazine. It'll need some trying and fitting like you did with the BBU.

If you can't already tell, I am a proponent for the use of duct tape to fix every single damn thing in the universe. Yeahhh....

IF the magazine is as tight as it can be AND you have the duct tape installed on the BBU AND the gun is still behaving poorly (provided nothing in the BBU is broken), then you must change the gas route packing (the rectangular hole where the gas escapes on top of the magazine) because it is now worn and can not deliver gas to the loading muzzle properly.

See how the hole is raised a bit and curved? If the curvy part looks like it is too wide, that means the loading muzzle has effectively chewed the crap out of it and therefore requires changing.

Lol I like your analogies, especially the magical chair.

I pretty much understand the blowback now, but does the floating valve "push" the gas into the chamber? From what I understand, gas won't go in a direction unless you propel / force it.

Also, how does the piston head catch the gas? And how does the o ring function?

Up next are some pictures I took.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070886.jpg
You can see the warn down part

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070888.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070889.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070896.jpg

Magazine in on rest position, not pressed up.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070898.jpg

Huge difference - mag is pressed up. Now when the slide is on, the magazine wont go up at all.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070899.jpg

My setup - I forgot to mention my guarder outer barrel.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070904.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070905.jpg

Does this look normal?

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070906.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070907.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070909.jpg

What does that piece sticking out on the piston do?

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070910.jpg

Piston head, it looks like there is a crack but I think it is just the seam, it is on top and bottom and it doesn't go in the middle.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070911.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070912.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070914.jpg

Bottom of the head

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070915.jpg

With o ring

So with the magazine issue is it supposed to be with the slide on?

What brand of magazines are there and what do you recommend?

I have we and army, army has better effeciency but leak after extended usage.

Also, I went to shoot the gun outside and the bbs dropped after about 10 - 20 feet, so I turned on the hop up to the max. The bbs went further, but went way to the right.

I took apart my hop up unit, the bucking is fine but seems to get really compressed and mushed when the screws of the unit are tightened. When you look at the bucking on full hop from the barrel, it is kinda lopsided. Is it supposed to look like a flat type bucking, or a u shaped like a concave?

Also, the bbs are misfeeding. When I rack the slide when the hop up is turned off, the bbs just roll out. When you rack the slide hard when the hop up is turned up, they roll out.

Does this mean I need a new bucking?

Have you checked what diameter the barrel is? I am just wondering...

It doesn't "push" it per se but mainly direct it to where it needs to go. The push comes from the blowoff valve on the magazine. Essentially, your magazine is like a can of air freshener. You press a button and the fresh scent of wildflower or whatever escapes from the can. The same principle applies to the magazine.

As I stated above, the piston head is essentially a sail. When the floating valve closes, the piston head is there to prevent gas from instantly escaping the loading muzzle assembly. [HINT: Look up the physics involved as to how a sail moves a sailboat and you'll understand better.]

Here's an analogy:

Hang a towel in front of a fan and see how the towel behaves. Do you feel air coming through? Obviously not. The piston head acts the same way. The piston head is the towel. So suppose we took the towel off the fan. Now would you feel air? yes? Good. So suppose we remove the piston head from the BBU. Do you think that we will get the same "blowback" as we would if the piston is installed? Do you think we would get ANY "blowback" at all? Probably not.

How it catches air? It just sits there. Waiting. Watching. Like Sauron. lol.
There's nothing special about HOW it catches it. The piston head just gives the channelled air a surface area to blow on.

NOTE: This is only applicable on the STOCK piston heads. On the aftermarket ones, it has a different function.

So let's go back to fan analogy. Remember how the towel behaves while it's hanging??? It will be blown away right and flap around, right? Suppose we put the something hard in front of the towel, like the back of a chair of something. Does the towel still flap around or does it stabilize itself by using the chair for support?

It stabilizes. That's what the O-ring does on the piston head. Gives the sail more stability and stregth. The O-ring is the chair, BTW.


Yes.

Tokyo Marui

I assume it will be lop sided in the stock bucking. Both of my WE Glocks show the same thing. This is how the bucking imparts the spin the bb needs.

But there should be equal force between the two nubs on the hop up clamp. I tweaked mine to have this. I found that for WE bucking to achieve a perfect seal, your bucking should curve around the BB.

And how tight you put the clamp on will impact how much spin you have on the BB.

Check to see if you didn't tear the bucking when you put it back together first.

...and make sure you put everything back properly.

One thing you can do is to tighten the the hop up even more. THere is a clamp on top of the hop up unit that applies pressure to the bucking. Try bending it downwards towards the bucking while the hop-up is off. But not too much because if you do, you will overtighten the grip the bucking has on the BB. You want it to be just right. Then crank the hop up to eleven and see if it made a difference.

The reason your bbs are rolling out is because three reasons:

1). your bucking is torn
2). Your hop up is not tight enough and thus loses a tight airseal.
3). you lubed the bucking accidentally and the bbs are "slipping" through.

Check everything there first before buying a new bucking.

All of my stock WE inner barrels are measured to 6.03 Tighbores (at least the ones that come from Evike).
I can only surmise that it may have been the standard for their Glock line. But seeing your inner barrel, it could be different. Mine had a blue coating on the exterior but yours is brass colored thus yours may be different.

They usually mark it on the side of the inner barrel anyways. If not, go buy a ruler and measure for yourself.

Everything in your pictures look like they are still good shape. But to be honest, they are in poor lighting condition so I may be wrong.
Just buy a new piston head if you are worried it's cracked. Buy a metal DYNA one. Works great.

You can fix your magazine catch problem by doing this:

Get a Coke a can. Cut a piece of the side off. Now cut the piece to match the shape of the groove on the magazine catch. Then superglue that badboy in place. Make sure it is as flat as possible.

Do a trial run by stacking as many pieces you need before you glue them altogether. That should create the packing you need to raise your magazine up higher.

The best part is... it only cost you a can of Coke.

If you haven't already checked your loading nozzle/muzzle i'd check that over really well. My G17 had the same problem as yours, venting gas and not blowing back far enough.

Turned out the loading nozzle had a crack in it. It was replaced and everything worked perfectly.

You can also test the space between your mag and loading nozzle by just pressing up on the mag and shooting the gun, see if there's much difference.

Kudos to E for the detailed write ups.... I liked reading your analogies... lol

There's a description and some images of how the blowback works on airsoft pistols here:
http://playfast-gallery.blogspot.ca/...blow-back.html

includes some photos to help you understand it all.

What piston head do you recommend?

I found three different dyna ones, a nine ball, 5ku, and element. Which one is the best?

I put tape on the mag catch, and the slide would not rack at all. I took off one layer of tape on the bbu, and it evened out, so I just took the tape off of the mag catch and put the one layer back on top of the bbu.

Then my bbu started to stick, and the performance droped, so I took out the spring, stretched it a little bit. It works pretty well, but it still sticks when the gas is low.




Next I got around to my hop up again. It does not have any tears what so over. I took it apart a few times and I aligned it perfectly.

The bbs still roll out the barrel occasionally. I dont know why, but it seems to only happen when I tilt the gun downwards and then up. They roll when the gun is up if I I tilted it. I checked to make sure that there was no lube.

I noticed that the arm that presses down on the bucking was tilted up on the right side, so I got my pliers and pressed it down a bit.

It looked normal, and when the hop up was adjusted, it also looked good.


Until I went outside to shoot it.


The hop up did not work at all, whether it was adjusted or not. The performance was the same, the bbs would drop after about 45 ft using .20s

I took apart the gun and this is what I found.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070935.jpg

The arm is pressing down on the bucking, but the hop up bucking looks like it is "aroused" and the part that presses down on the bb has instead risen up.

So that is kinda the problem, the nub isnt making contact with the bb.



I am making a simple list of upgrades right now to fix all of my problems and increase my performance.

What do you recommend getting ? suggestions?

~Guarder trigger bar - to fix the slide getting caught
~Guarder mag catch - to fix my mags sitting to low
~Nineball bucking - to fix my hop up issues
~"Dyna" piston head - which one?
~8mm hammer bearing - which one?

Nineball. I always use it and it never fails me.

Too much tape if your slide can't rack. Try the Coke can one. The aluminum material of the can is much more thinner than duct tape.

HOLY CRAP!!!
lol.

Yeah that's some protrusion you've got there. That's not suppose to happen. It's probably why your BBs are just rolling out.

The bucking probably didn't stand up against the air and it blew it up resulting in that protrusion.

Get a new bucking.

100% right.

Get a new bucking.

As I said, the Nineball one is great.

I usually just buy the ACTION brand one. They are relatively inexpensive (i think $8) and haven't given me any problems yet.

I have a similar problem. My WE mag sits alittle low so it feels like it's leaking gas when I fire. Either that or the rubber exhaust lip is too low? So a new mag catch will fix that? I tried pushing the mag up as much as possible, but it's like 1mm difference...

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

It should fix it. Your magazine rubber shouldn't actually touch the loading muzzle but should be as close as possible. If it does, your loading muzzle will tear the rubber apart or the loading arm will get caught and cause a jam.

If your slide is able to complete a full cycle, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I mean, if your gun is empty and the slide catch engages and the sear locks the hammer when the gun is on full tank with bbs, your ok. Or unless, you chrony it and there is a drastic drop in FPS, then you would worry. But I would start to look elsewhere first, TBH.

The typical signs of the gas loss when nothing is broken is that the piston short strokes and won't the sear won't lock onto the hammer. In the end of the full mag, it will vent the gas because the valve knocker will rest on the magazine valve. It can't reset because the slide can't make it far back enough to lock the hammer into place.

Drew's gun needs some help because his won't cycle properly at all...and since his magazine and his BBU were in good shape, I made the prediction that it was losing air. It's the only place that I haven't "checked" I made a prediction.

I completely omitted the fact that you have a Guarder Barrel on your gun.

Run on the stock barrel. That Gaurder barrel may be causing friction between the slide and the chamber since the barrel tilts and thereby, causing your gun to expend more gas than it needs to.

Guarder products are finicky when it comes to pistol parts. Again try running it on the stock set up and note the differences in performance for your gun.

Alight, I shall get the nineball piston head.

Does all of the friction go away with the action 8mm bearing or will it still get stuck.

As of right now, I ghetto rigged my hop up unit, I still have to test it outside later to see if it actually works, but the bbs dont roll out anymore with my "mod".

Another thing is that my WE outer barrel broke, so I got the army outer barrel. The army outer barrel broke, so I got the guarder. These problems happened when I still had the army outer barrel so it isnt due to the guarder in particular.

not all the friction but less. you'll still have some but not as bad.
depending in the state of the bbu, it maybe too small and can cause the gun to shoot in full auto.

i am sooo tempted to ask for your gun so i can work on it. mmmmmmmm!
but since i dont know where you live ( in canada or not) i will restarin myself.

Unfortunately I don't live in Canada.

I just ordered my tier one upgrades including a guarder trigger bar and magazine catch, along with another we magazine, which brings my total to 3 we magazines and 2 army.

First thing I did was take a small silicone stray and cut it so that it fits right under the hop up arm diagonally. The ends are cut so that it just makes the nub press down better and there are no protrusions.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070961.jpg

I went outside to shoot it, and it didnt work.

Now, I noticed that when I pressed the slide forward all the way, the hop up worked, and worked really well.

When the gun is racked, and when the gun is shooting, the slide never comes forward all the way. Because of this, the hop up isnt working properly and I dont know why. I think it is the air nozzle, because I tried without the outer barrel on and just the slide and it seems like the friction is coming from the air nozzle entering the hop up bucking. It seems like it is a really tight fit and it has trouble getting into it.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070965.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070969.jpg

Back and side views when the slide is not all the way forward.

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070970.jpg

http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...d/P1070971.jpg


Back and side views when the slide is pushed all the way forward.

Suggestions?

Usually a strong recoil spring fixes your slide issue.
On your guarder barrel, make sure that it's not in the "pushed down" state when the slide is in battery.

When you push the slide forward, do you hear any clicking sounds?

So I started to Troubleshoot by loosening the screws of the hop up unit. With ought the outer barrel and just sliding the unit onto the nozzle, it seemed a whole lot better. Because the sides of the guarder outer barrel are pretty narrow, when the screws of the hop up unit were loosened, the hop upunit could not move at all in the outer barrel, so that was a dead end.

Next thing I did was installed the unit with just the inner barrel, no bucking. Immediately almost all friction was eliminated, the slide moved so much smoother and dint get stuck.

The last thing I did was put silicone on the nozzle and on the rim of the bucking. It fixed the problem, the slide did not get stuck and the bbs had spin on them and they flew far.

When I put in the second magazine, it went back to normal again and started sticking.

SO the problem is from the bucking / nozzle.

I will try putting more o rings on the recoil spring to make it stronger - I already have too on it.

As for clicking, I dont really hear anything other than the bbu hitting the bearing.

What do you mean: On your guarder barrel, make sure that it's not in the "pushed down" state when the slide is in battery. ?

Here...
Check if there is some sort of protrusion around this area on your Glock and file it away. It's located on the left rail of the slide. If there is, file it away. My slide had this and it was the source of all my problems.

Attachment 33505Attachment 33506

Are you sure you seated the packing right? It should be neatly tucked away into the hop up casing.

The reason I say to make sure that the barrel is not tilting when the slide is in battery is because when the barrel tilts, it slightly pushes the hop up down. There is very little room of play even though the hop up unit is stationary but it can still move around.

If the outer barrel tilts up, it can take the inner barrel along with it and can cause the misalignment between the bucking and nozzle. It's like a seesaw-ing effect.

I finally got my guarder parts in the mail!

First off, I tested my new we magazine. I noticed at the top of the magazine, the rubbery part is completely flat, unlike my mags that have the top rounded. I expect this is wear from the nozzle.

My can of propane is running out, but on one of my old mags, I could get 4 shots with the first locking back and 4 with the new mag but the first two lock back.

Next I got to installing the new mag catch. It was really hard because of the mag spring, but I got it installed and I took off the tape off the top of the bbu. Immediately I got 7 rounds per mag with MUCH more kick. SO that solved my problem, you are a genius (or have a super amount of experience lol).

I also have 4 o rings on my recoil spring that are like shims for the spring. Does this increase the power of the spring or just make it compressed a little earlier? In theory, If the spring gets 100% compressed with a slide cycle, the power of the spring should not increase because the o rings have just shifted its placement.

Anyways, with all of this, the slide does not really stick anymore. The slide pretty much makes a complete return to rest position, maybe about 1 -2 mm back.

Next I plan on disassembling my lower receiver to install the trigger bar. Is there a step by step instruction guide anywhere online? Are there any pieces that are very troublesome to look out for?

I want to replace the sights on my glock with nights sights, have you tried the big dragon?

I take no credit at all. You did the work and you fixed your gun. Not me.
Pat on the back sir. Pat on the back.


I don't think that's the case here. That magazine is brand new and should not have worn off that much that quickly. Plus, if what you're suspecting holds true, then that new magazine should've caused a jam with the loading arm on your loading nozzle. There would have been too much of the "rubbery part" wear off initially thus would have over-protruded causing a jam.

I suspect that the flat "rubbery part" is how WE has manufactured these replacement magazines. Though I see no visible advantage nor reason as to why they would have two designs for the same magazine.

here's how AG pictured it:

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/im...AG-17-AG-1.jpg

that looks like a flat gas route packing to me.

Correct. If you want a better, crispier slide cycle get a stiffer spring. The Shooter's Design recoil spring is pretty strong. It's 150% in strenght but is much stiffer than the guarder ones because it has less coils. Most of guns have this spring installed and most of them are shortstroked because the power of the spring is too much.

Short stroking the gun will give you a better gas consumption though. heh. so all is not lost.

there are many youtbe videos on these. just simply look one up that caters to your preference.

Here's one:
Tokyo Marui Glock 17 Full Take Down/Disassemble (HD QUALITY) - YouTube

I wasn't aware that Big Dragon made sights for TM Glocks so no i haven't used one.

But I have used the Big Dragon fiber optic sight system for my KSC G18c before. From my experience, you can probably get a better version. These sights are for the budget minded airsofters.

The fiber rods are poor on the KSC sights. hardly any good use out of them before they just decided to fall off of the sight.

But keep in mind, this was a KSC version sights I owned.

I just took my gun apart and put it back together just to see if I could do it. I almost lost the spring outside of the hammer assembly, but I found it.

Do you have a thread with all of your glocks / other pistols? I really would like to see all of them.

Here's a few of my builds...

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...uder/photo.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...photocopy2.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0710.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...r/df/22621.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...f/IMG_0807.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...photocopy7.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...photocopy8.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...er/df/G192.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/.../photocopy.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy15.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/.../df/photo3.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...photocopy5.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...f/IMG_0712.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...f/IMG_0755.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy13.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/.../df/photo6.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...r/df/22620.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...photocopy4.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...r/df/photo.jpg


...one too many...

Here:

The Glock Thread!

Post your Pistol!

The 1911 Thread


Everyone in the Community have far better pistols than I do. Some of them I cater my builds to. Such good looking guns....

Do you have any more pictures of the one with the tan frame / silver slide and can you list the specs? Its pretty sexy, I want to build up my we like that.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0710.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0712.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0713.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0714.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0716.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0718.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0730.jpg[IMG]http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0728.jpg[/IMG]http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0721.jpghttp://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0719.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Pcz9c8g.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2SjpWJw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/q3j02VP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Nzyrqqy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/98idpat.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3mLHE2I.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fBL0gdX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uDoYSfG.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/im...2/original.jpg

My Glock 17 many many moons ago..I don't have that slide, frame or TLR-1 left....:D

Sorry for the late reply, I am super busy with school and sports.

I started to think about the enhanced return spring and I stumbled upon short stroking and shock buffers.

I have a list of questions.

1. What part of the slide / frame absorbs the impact of the frame coming forward? I am pretty sure that when the slide racks back, the spring absorbs the impact since without the rod in, the slide goes back further. The reason I ask why I that I wonder if a stronger spring would cause more wear and tear on specific parts.

2. DO Shock Buffers help absorb the impact of the motion of the slide? If not, what is the point of them.

3. If you use something soft to shortstroke the spring, like o rings, would this serve the same purpose as shock buffers?

4. What is the point of buying a stronger spring and short stroke it? Wouldnt the recoil be the same as a standard strength spring?

5. I cant visualize how the schock buffers affect the spring. Right now in my gun, the orings are placed so that the spring can fully compress, but If I add one more, it does not. Does the spring get fully compressed when I add more o rings?

I was troubleshooting one of my leaky army mags and I took off the top gasket. When I tried to put it back one, it would not seat properly with the magazine and it would sit about a half centimeter high. The rubber is on correctly. Even if I pressed it down SUPER HARD, it would not seat flush. Because of this, I broke the wholes in the plastic magazine gasket.

7. Can you explain why this happened and are there any replacements you recommend? The only one I have found is by building fire. Army mags suck.

So right now I have come to the conclusion that I need to either buy marui or we mags. We's have worked fine so far without any problems.

Ok

8. What parts need to be modified to have a full auto g17? Just thinking about it,for sure dont want it.

9. What is different in a glock 18c mechanism?

DO you have any pictures of the tan and silver glock 17 internals?

Do you have any pictures of shock buffers ? short stroke on glocks?

The slide hits the chamber on your outerbarrel and the kinetic energy travels down towards your hop up unit and transfers to your lower assembly.

A stronger spring will always cause more stress on some parts of the gun as opposed to the weaker stock one. What you have to watch out for is the screw casing on the front the of the lower assembly. This is the first component that usually breaks on Marui glocks.

WE's frame seems sturdier than Marui's to be honest. But I can't say for sure that WE has addressed this flaw with their frame. Mine hasn't broken yet but I don't use it all that often to begin with.

There have also been reports of the WE outerbarrels breaking very easily. I've heard that the barrel splits in half or severs at the base of the chamber. But again I can't comment on this issue because I haven't ran into it personally.

Not forward but it will absorb the backward forces. You will feel less kick when the gun cycles compared to when there is no buffers installed.

You can't really avoid the kinetic energy of the slide moving forward. most of that energy is created on the slide itself , not the internals.

Theoretically yes. But because you are using soft materials like the o-ring, you would need many o-rings to take the same amount of force as a proper buffer would. That's why most buffers are made of hard rubber or soft plastic.

This is mainly done to improve the rate of fire of the gun. This helps conserve your gas reservoir vastly since the slide will travel a shorter distance at a faster rate.

When you add more buffers (in your case the oring), the spring will always be in a compressed state. Think about it. The nature of the spring is push out. When you put a buffer, you are keeping the spring from "springing out."

If your spring is a weak spring, the spring will fully compress. If you have something like a stiff 150% spring, it won't because the spring would be too powerful.

It also depends on the amount of coils and how stiff that the spring has. For example, The Shooter's Design spring has less coils and is shorter but is more stiff. Guarder's has more coils and is longer than Shooter's Design spring but is less stiff. Both of these springs are measured to 150% strength.

Remember that springs get harder to compress when they "coil up". So if you already made it so that the spring is already compressed (adding buffers) to begin with, it will be even harder for it to compress even further when the trigger is pulled.

I have to see what happened.

That's what I've told you from the start. Marui's may be expensive but they still outlast most of the other TM based-Glock mags out on the market. In airsoft, you always get what you pay for.

Get a Glock 18c, rip out all of it's internals and custom fit it to your G17.

...Or you can just buy a Glock 18c.

The G18c has a totally different set of internal set up. The BBU and the loading muzzle internals, in its entirety, is different as it has to house the internal fire select function of the pistol. The hammer assembly is different because it has to accomodate the seperate full auto sear.

The trigger bar is different(G18c has a thicker trigger bar). The hammer housing is different (has different cuts and pins). The rear sight and mounting screw is different.
...and so on and so on.

You can't swap the internals of the two.
..nor the slide.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...psfe6a729b.jpg

There's one I made from things I found around the house. Get resourceful!! Use everything in your household!!!

EDIT: You'll you've stroked the gun if the slide catch doesn't engage on empty. This is because the slide can't travel far enough since the buffers will be blocking its path.

Probably a good place to ask this, whats the compatibility for the KJW G23 to the TM parts? I think time-wise the KJW came out after the TM G26 but before the TM G17. Does it have the G26 hop-up(which I believe is different to rest of the TM spec)? Can it use the inner barrel made for the rest of the TM GBB? What about nozzle/cylinder? I am assuming parts like hammer spring is compatible. Thus far I've only used the TM G17 sights on the KJW G23 and its drop in.

AFAIK, the KJW G23 is compatible with parts from the TM G17. however, I don't know from experience, but The TM G17 is based off its previous designs of the glock 26 and 26A, and the KJW G23 is based off of the G26 and G26A. The TM G17 is basically the G26A re-packaged.

And the TM inner barrel for all TM GBBs are the same. My glock inner barrel will fit my 1911 and vice versa. And i'm pretty sure the the hop unit is the same across all models (KJW/TM).

KJW G23
http://www.airsplat.com/Manuals/GP-KJW-G23-B-2.jpg

TM G26
http://www.everything-airsoft.com/im...V%20TM0008.jpg

TM G17
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...partslist1.jpg