ASCU technical discussion
 

I have installed a couple of the ASCU's now and I have a couple others interested in purchasing. The first one that I did is my "demo" and it is simply amazing! I love all the features, I have a Systema Magnum and a Systema Turbo motor so I have not experienced any reversals. At least not enough to screw up feeding, so I haven't noticed any.

I know that airsoftparts has sold 40 or 50 of these so there must be enough experience here to start this thread.

Has anyone run one to a front wired M4? Do you see any problem with doing a front wire setup with the ASCU? I think it can be done with A) a chafer around the wires where it goes through from body to front end and B) the operator being ever careful and vigilant when changing batteries and taking the gun down.

I am familiar with the thread at airsoft mechanics and although I agree that the implementation can lead to gear reversal I think that the complete trigger mech replacement idea is great. It is not quite as "slick" as my Systema Revolution Gearbox, but for $99 (plus installation) it is a great upgrade for any V. 2 AEG.

So, if we can start the discussion in these few areas, I will be grateful:

1) What are your experiences with the ASCU?

2) Is there any serious reason that the ASCU should not be used in a front wired M4 AEG?

3) Do you think it is a good upgrade for an AEG?

I have no first hand experience with the ASCU, but I did install some FET units on front-wired guns.

I used a 20ga wire with a simple pin/hole connection just where the battery wires have a connector. It works great and since it is just a "data" connection, you don't need an extremely efficient connection.

I really like the idea of the trigger replacement block, but I find that their software is lacking a bit. It would be easy to implement a motor brake without any extra hardware. An other solution would have been to use the cut-off lever to trigger an optical switch. Parts cost would be under 5c and I guess that the software implementation would be very simple.

The other thing I don't like is the size of the unit vs the features. It is really big for a simple MOSFET unit with very basic control features. I guess that if they didn't add motor break, they are not using a H-bridge setup. That means that only 1 FET would be required and it does not explain the size of the thing.

They should sell the trigger module by itself to let people use it with any MOSFET module (either SW or basic home-made). Might just build a trigger module with some board I have...

*edit*
Apparently they have implemented active braking since the last time I checked, and the semi-cut-off works properly. It is a lot more interesting now, but at 100$/unit, I still find it quite steep.

I've installed them in;

2X Rear wired G3
1X Front wired G3
1X Rear Wired M4
1X Front Wired M4
1X Rear Wired MP5

Only problem I've found with these is that it can be tricky to get the fire selector to line up properly in the different fire modes.

Aslong as you're using a SUPER High torque motor (Magnum, G&P M160 or higher) you don't need the ARL.

I'm playing around with how to mount one on a 7" front wired M4 right now lol

I can't see a front fired unit being a problem. use a piece of unshrunk heat shrink to protect the controller wires through the receiver. it's actually a very simple wiring job.

I've installed one in my FrankenMP5 and an M4.

Only minor issue is the M4 with the selector switch position as the gearbox is not lined up 100%.

Thanks Amos for the PM on motors. The m120 is not strong enough for the G&P m120 box although a JG motor turns an S100 just fine. lol Time to bug Jugglez for a bigger motor.

I just install mine. The only problem I had is the screw holding the sensor unit was a bit too long and it blocked the selector plate on the other side. I use a file to make it at the level of the shell and now it's moving smoothly.

I use my good old Classic Army Motor I had with my M15A4 when I purchased it in 2006. I seems to works well. Good cycling, good stopping. Semi, Burst and full auto work well. I also had the small issu of the selector swith position, not always detecting I'm on semi. If I go full auto and comeback to semi, it works.

I have a Systema M120 gearbox and I wire to the back. I order the madbull ACE stock tube and a magpul CTR stock to use with LiPo stock battery.

Note that ASCU warning for low battery even on NiMh not just LiPo. I think ASCU use now the cut off lever to detect cycling... and use 2 MOSFET unit to work. It maybe the reason it's that big.

Next step, field test.

I was having overspinning problems with my Systema 400fps Gearbox with the Jing Gong M-93 High Power motor, the ASCU solved this, and now the firing rate is awesome, I've done a short video of it:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_MVI_1669.jpg

I have installed one in a SR25, awesome performance again. Has anyone had a failed unit? I believe I saw Amos post a couple of months ago that he broke one on a Prometheus Hard cut-off lever.

I have a "demo" here that I left a LiPo (7.4v 1600MaH 20c) in for a couple of weeks while I went to work. When I got back it was completely drained. I think that the claims of "LiPo safe" are bogus. Anyone else have a problem with the ASCU draining batteries when not in use. Is it supposed to be "powered up" any time it is connector to a power source? Should I be removing the battery because it is powered up and draining the battery at all times?

Yes, I know you should remove a battery from your gun any time you are not using it. Don't need that post, just an answer to my question. :D

Its like ANY mosfet,

to be "Lipo-safe" it needs to draw a little bit of current to monitor it.

You shouldn't be leaving batteries plugged into ANY airsoft gun. Full stop.

ESPECIALLY ones with a mosfet as that can drain it to absolutely nothing and damage the batteries.

I would charge that LIPO outside next time you do. Lipos can be dangerous if they're brought to absolute zero.

And yea, the Prometheus hard cut off lever is too thick and on rotation it'll break off the sensor.

Other than that I haven't had a problem except for the shitty wire shielding that comes with them (but I re-wire everything anyways lol)

Thanks for the quick answer. I know, I know that I shouldn't leave batteries in them, and I do it too often. I especially have to watch out for the LiPo's as they can be a fire hazard and should be stored safely.

I also find that the piece of shielding (unshrunk heatshrink I think) is too long and I have to trim it shorter each time I install one. Another problem I have had is that the ribbon cable always ends up shorter than the power cables. I usually tie a loop in the power cables with a tie wrap so that it will take the strain of any pulling rather than the ribbon cable.

Otherwise I think they are a straightforward install.

Did this to me too, after the first game, I've let it plugged, and when I wanted to record the video there was no power left in the battery...

Have any of you guys installed and gamed/field tested both the ASCU and TM3 units? Which one did you like or performed better? I have already used 2 TM3's in my previous builds and I would like to try the ASCU on my third build.

The way I'm building right now:

V2 = ASCU
Anything else = TM

I will order one around New Year and install it in an ICS build-up I was asked by a friend... They state not to use it in ICS rifles, but I can't understand why... I made a mock trigger plate (for eventually use with the FET unit I am working on) and it physically fits no problem. They state on their website that the safety won't work... but I still don't see why.

The safety works by disconnecting all three prongs from the back of the sensor/trigger pack... since ICS mechboxes still use reg. M4 selector plate... I don't see it being a problem. Maybe the stock ICS plate is a millimeter too long and keeps the connection, but that would be solved by changing the selector plate.

other than the obvious split box design, what differences are there between the ICS and a standard v2 box? I don't have enough of a working knowledge on the ICS design to formulate a possible reason.

Anti-reversal is attached to a lever that protrudes on the right side of the mechbox shell. That lever is then pushed by a little metal plate that is in the way of the forward assist, releasing the spring.

The front section of the lower, under the mag catch guide continues up to the end of the mag catch guide.

The rear part of the upper mechbox is a bit longer than a regular mechbox upper part. The top is also at least twice as wide.

The receiver is a bit longer at the rear near the buffer tube to allow the lower upper mechbox to clear. The buffer tube guide is also threaded at the tip to allow the wires to pass in and to let the mechbox open.

I will post a side-by-side picture of a TM mechbox shell and ICS mechbox shell. The lower mechbox is exactly the same as any V2, every hole placement is the same. The top of the lower mechbox is also grinded ruff, suggesting that they use a V2 cast mold with a plug, and then clean off the burrs.

I thought the trigger mech was different and that was why Airsoft Systems was designing one especially for the ICS gearbox.

Very little. The trigger guide hole at the top of the shell is about 1mm lower than on regular AEGs. You can see that this hole is made elongated in the trigger module to accommodate for various brands of mechbox. It definitely fits with very little to no fitting. A normal trigger will have issues with the contact block because since the ICS trigger is made lower, an other one will rub too hard with the trigger and jam when the dis-connector engages.

Was over at Jugglez yesterday...

ASCU fits perfectly inside the MadBull ACE Skeleton stock (long). It also fits the 9.9V Intellect LiFe battery. Very good option for people running a full stock but want to make things a bit more compact.

A couple minor modifications required in my setup:

1. Extended the motor wires to position the ASCU in the butt plate area. The control wire is the perfect length.

2. Opened the channel for the wires on the receiver end.

3. Slotted the stock's attachment disc so that the wires don't have to run through the tiny hole they supply.


pictures up later.

any doctors want to state what they charge for installation?

i have been charging $50-$75 depending on what custom dremelling must be done. this includes deburring mechbox edges and wire channels, followed by a solvent cleaning and relube.

is this high, low or in the ballpark of a fair rate?

That's about right for all the work involve.

I'm flat 20 per hour + parts.

ASCU normally go in within about an hour

30$/h + parts here, but I sometimes do a 20$ flat for small thing (changing a spring for example)

I just installed another ASCU. It is the first one to give me trouble.

When I put the selector on auto it just shoots away without pulling the trigger.

In semi-auto it fires once without touching the trigger and then stops. Then you can use the trigger to fire in semi, but if you switch to full auto it just goes off on its own again!

Anyone experience this problem?

Seems like the button switch is defective.

Thanks for input.

if it fires on it's own, the ASCU is defective. I had one like that. It would just fire when the battery was plugged. Return it and get a replacement.

Thanks ghost, just what I thought. Jugglez will take them back will he?

In semi it beeps after every shot.

if it beeps after every shot, it's the cutoff lever I believe. On one of my build, the cutoff lever stick out too far (the side with the selector plate) and would rub on the body. This caused the ascu to beep after every shot. check that out first.

When I just disassembled it I noticed a bit of insulation off at the bottom of the gearbox on the red wire. It may have been shorting on the gearbox shell. Would that cause this problem?

I just reassembled with a new trigger unit. Works great.

a short can cause the unit to malfunction but if it's just one wire that lost some insulation, that can't cause a short. When the gun fires, is it when you plug in the thin gray wire or just when you plug in the batter without the gray wire plugged in?

no it will only fire with the ribbon cable attach. even backwards.

it's defective then. It should only work when plugged in correctly.

Anyone found that the motor wires would tend to split easily? When I installed mine, the red wire just splited and I could see the wire on about a half inch, and then only by taking it it opened a full inch, had to tape it to insulate the wire...

Yea the insulation on the motor wires is AWFUL

I re-solder on my own much higher quality wires.

I did the exact same thing. The wires that they use are so shitty and thick that it didn't fit into some pistol grips. Ribbon wire was an ass too. Just touching it the wrong way caused a rip. POS

Got confirmation from Airsoft Systems today, all units in their inventory have been sent back to be re-wired with better , higher quality wiring. My next shipment will feature this newer version. ETA 1-2 weeks.

Keep the feedback coming, they really appreciate it and will work towards improving the product.

Also new products on the horizon, however I'm not at liberty to discuss =D

Anyone getting strange errors?

the 3 most recent ones I put into guns have been giving me the "motor not strong enough" warning when I'm using G&P M160's and G&P M170's to pull sub 400 FPS springs.

does it even take 1 shot after it cuts out?

The second one I picked up has crappy motor wires. One wire ended up splitting as mentioned above but thought nothing of it as the one from the first batch was and is fine. I was lazy and just heat shrinked the section that cracked. The next time I break open the box, I'll just re-solder it with better wires that are low resistance and not nearly as stiff.

Now if I only knew of a retailer that sold some.... :rolleyes: [/sarcasm]


You're going to be killing me Duy if they start rolling out the V3 kits...


negative. no issues with either of mine. I'm using an EG1000 and a stock JG motor that came out with the first run of black JG boxes that Karnage was selling. (though I am planning to run the G&P M170 on the M4 eventually)

1 shot then the error lol

then it's not the motor. There's something that's binning. Look into the cutoff lever and make sure it's moving freely with the gearbox installed into the receiver. I had that exact problem and it turns out that my cutoff lever was rubbing on the inside of the receiver.

I did a test rig with a SP150 spring. Everytime it shot it would give the motor not strong enough signal. I then put a 11.1v lipo on for power and the double beeps stopped.

new wires for the ASCU are very nice. Since everyone was having problems with them they replaced them with silicone insulation. Super flexible and a bit thinner than the previous. I got a chance to fondle the new shipment from Airsoftparts and they are indeed much more better. I can't wait for the new system that they are coming out with. :D

I just dropped in a new motor this weekend

Confirmed working setup:

G&P m120 box
G&P m170 motor
Intellect 9.9v LifePO4 20C 1100mAh

I was originally using a TM eg1000. It worked fine but it would often over spin. I will have to confirm if it will still turn over with an 8.4V large and 9.6v mini but I have gone exclusively LifePO4 on this particular gun.

Update:
-8.4v 2400/3800mAh (sanyo and tenergy) large works fine
-9.6v 1500mAh (custom pack - enrichpower) mini works fine
-8.4v 1400mAh mini does not work (even immediately after a full charge - charger shows 10.84v 1100mAh)

I insalled my ASCU early Jan, it was working fine with my Madbull 11.1v 1000amp 15c lipo. Until I gamed it today...! There seems to be a lot of power drain on the battery. I charged it again and still has that 2 beep. I they tryed my friends G&P 11.1v lipo and it worked fine for about 300 rounds. Then the battery went dry. My friend uses the same spring (Madbull 130) as I do. But his battery lasted him all night (Without the ASCU).

So I discharged my lipo, which I shouldn't do. And charged it again, it fires. But I'm thinking the ASCU drains a lot of the power from the battery. Anybody have this battery draining problem...?

My set up,
Madbull 130 spring
G&P M170 Devil Jet motor
TLP X17 charger
Systema helical gears, piston, piston head and cylinder.
G&P Mk18 Mod 0
G&P gear box
I tryed my systema gear box, but it wouldn't fit perfecty with the receiver. So I stayed with the stock G&P 8mm. Which is made very nice.

First I thought the amp on the lipo was too low, then I thought the spring was too hard. At one point I thought I fryed my lipo. Why won't my full charged 11.1 lipo push it...? Then I read about power draining a lot more with the ASCU installed. Now I'm thinking of putting the normal switch back in so my lipo would last longer. Anybody have this power problem in game.?

It can be many problems... Dame

I too noticed the motor wiring is shit on the ascu. When I finish installing mine I'll fix up the wires with some heat shrink tube. It is an easy install and I may buy another to put in the other aeg I have. Just need a new selector plate as mine was all plastic and I need the metal contact one.

I honestly haven't noticed that. It's suppose to be more efficient with power usage. Weird.

Are you plugging in you battery and leaving it in your gun when not using? I won't typically plug in a lipo or life battery until at the field.

if the ASCU is installed to the rear, will it fit a lipo in the buffer tube?

In this set-up, it didn't fit completly. I can only use the last 2 positions on my tube (with a magpul ctr stock), but it's good enough for me.

very tight fit.

But the way, i'm using a Madbull PX04 LiPo battery.

Has anyone tried the ASCU without the fuse next to the batery connector? Whats are the Cons of doing such a thing?

No. And I don't recommend it. A short could damage either the control board or the sensor unit.

Do you have a space limitation? Would relocating it help?

Yes, I am having a little bit of a issue of space in my crane stock.. But I should be able trim down the wires and keep it on...

Thanks for the quick reply.. Cheers

I had a crane stock on my previous set-up, of course the stock wasn't able to go all the way in, it was on the second position and with a 2/3A 9.6v battery it would just fit right.

I have it so that it sits on the second position, and is tight when fully collapsed...

I'm using mine with a 35c 11.1 3300mAh. I've installed 10 of em for ppl and there has never been a problem. Te only thing ICANN see is ur battery might be a little on the weak side. 15c is pretty weak for a 130 spring. Even a large type 3600 9.6v will power ur gun better than an 11.1 15c lipo. mAh rating doesn't mean much apart from how Lon ur battery is gonna last on lipos an 1000 mAh is very low for an Airsoft battery. I'm not really that surprised ur not getting alot of use out of it.

Mine is up and running now. I like it :D I had to repair the motor wiring. I have one issue though and it might be just my plastic body but from safe to semi it no work. Auto works and going from auto to semi will make semi work. I need to mod the selector plate at the metal contacts to move it towards the rear of the body to make contact earlier so safe to semi works properly.

Also need to get a better battery or more of what I have. My battery life is about 1/2 of what it was before. Active braking I guess eats more battery ???

I'm wondering if anyone may have any advice. Mine is installed in a Ca33 stock internals, Guarder infinite tork up motor, M130 spring. I've used an 11.1v/1600mah 20c and a 7.4v/2150mah 20c and it does the same thing with both batteries. It seems to be overspinning and then winding back like a regular gear box with no anti reversal latch, and then I get the 2 beeps. It does this in full & semi although it usually starts giving 2 rnd bursts in semi. Any ideas? It almost seems like there is no active breaking?

Are you sure it's over spin and not excessive back spin? Does it actually double feed?

I have not tried that motor so can't say for certain but it's possible you need a higher torque motor or lower your spring.

It is double feeding. The motor has loads of tork and the spring (wich I was told is an M130) is weaker than a Madbul M120 I have. I talked to Juggles and he thinks it may be either a cut off lever or a selector plate issue. I'm going to dig in to that later today and I'll post my findings.

The "C" in 20C is your discharge rate. Lets cover the basics first: the lipos rebranded by the suppliers and supposed "manufacturers" do not indicate if this is your continuous rate or if its your burst C rate. Burst rate in this case does not mean your ROF, it means the most powerful rate your battery will dump out power. Due to the fact that this is not evident on the batteries (hence no way to tell even with my background in RC lipos), there is a toss up between what lipo battery you ACTUALLY have.

At 11.1v a 1600 mah 20C lipo battery is putting out 3200 mah at full charge

At 7.4v your 2150 mah 20C lipo battery is putting out 4300 mah at full charge

Think of the "20C" bit on your battery designation as how far you can open up the faucet to fill a glass of water (aka the discharge rate), at 20C you're already near full blast (the cup runneth over) as lipo batteries were NEVER designed to work on anything without an electronic speed control (a full functioning version of any of the ASCU and PTW, all these mosfet based systems are effectively only half an Electronic Speed Control device).

Try a 15C 7.4 volt battery OR if you don't need a lipo, switch over to a PROPER 8.4v NIMH pack from your local hobby store. You can also try a 12C lipo battery from Frank. Your gearbox is the equivalent of a differential with no clutch and a motor connected to it, now you have an electronic brake on it. You want the very best so if you go and do get an NIMH pack, make sure its a quality pack that says it has MATCHED cells. As a matter of fact, I HAVE helped someone overcome this issue, he now runs an 8.4v NIMH battery despite the size, and it works perfectly.

Lipo fun tidbit:

IF you see that your lipo battery is kaputski after 50 or so charges AND you've taken REALLY good care of it (as in don't charge over 1 amp, no gouges on the pack itself, etc etc), chances are you've got a B rated pack, this is highly undesirable as B rated lipo packs are to be used with caution and not expected to last long (50-70 charge cycles max) due to high levels of resistance during the pack build.

Hi, I bought myself an ASCU and just finished installing it to my M4 G&P AEG.

The only trouble I had was to make sure that the SAFE, SEMI and AUTO would work well. I Bended and added some tin on the little strips of metal used to know in what mode we are.

It seems to be working, although I'm concerned about two things:

- Firstly and the one I'm most concerned about: the mosfet heats up pretty fast. I don't have any experience with MOSFETs in general, so I don't know if it normal or not.

- Secondly, I can't really do shots too quickly in SEMI. When I quickly tap a second time the trigger after I've tapped it once already, sometimes it won't shoot again.

Does it do that to anyone else?

Yes the MOSFET heats up. What kind of battery are you using? Lipo's and lifepo's will heat it up faster.

Why did you add strips of metal to the contacts? All you have to do is bend them upwards a bit.

I had a similar problem but made a few changes so not 100% sure what solved it.

The only thing I can think of is to check your cutoff lever for clearance. Did you remove the cutoff lever spring?

I'm using a 7.4V G&P Lipo. But it's good to know that it's normal that it heats up.

About the metal contacts, I didn't add strips, I soldered some tin on them because otherwise I would have had to bend them a lot and I was afraid they would break. But that part is working so I'm not worried.

About the shooting issue. I did remove the cutoff spring. I really don't know what could be causing this...

I am having a double beep error with my ascu. Whether I put the motor in the gearbox or not I get a short burst from the battery, approximately 3 shots if I leave the motor in the gearbox, before the unit gives me the double beep and wont fire again until I unplug the battery and try again. After plugging the battery back in it just does the same thing. I have insulated my selector plate, the motor is the stock motor from the SRC Proline Guns, and my battery is an intellect 1600 mah. Neither of my chargers detect a problem with the battery, and it works fine in another AEG. I can't figure out why the damn thing wont work.

make sure the cutoff lever is able to move freely. open it up and cycle the sector gear completely and watch how the lever contacts the switch. there should be a small gap as it ends the cycle.

to me, it sounds like when you double tap the trigger quickly, the previous cycle has not completed yet. other than that, I can't think of anything without seeing it.

the switch contacts are pretty resilient and can take some careful bending. if tinning them works for you, great.

Anyone tried installing this in a VFC Scar...H to be specific? Im running into the one shot then it beeps issue indicating an improper selector. I trimmed according to spec but considering that a VFC Scar is a little bit different than a normal V2 GB Im not sure of the amount youre supposed to cut is correct.

It's possible, but I thought it would work anyway.

Here's a video of the behaviour of the unit on my G&P M4. The gearbox has 8mm bearings, G&P gears, G&P M120 Motor, SP90 Guarder spring which gives me a 345 fps. I use a 7.4V G&P Lipo.

YouTube - Airsoft ASCU

Basically, it doesn't shoot everytime I pull the trigger as I'd like it to. But again. Maybe I tap it too quickly and it only shoots if the previous cycle is over.

The good thing is that, in SEMI, the piston stops at the exact same place after every single shot (I put a dot on the piston through the holes in the cylinder to check). It's not true in AUTO (it's not bad though). This is why I recommend like other to keep the Anti Reversal Latch.

[edit]Is it just me or does the ASCU consume a lot more power than the regular switch assembly?[/edit]
[edit2]Maybe I just shimed my gearbox too tight...[/edit2]

I found the ascu takes more juice to run too. I finally tore into mine to figure out why mine went tits up many weeks ago. I had the motor neg lead slip out of place and get chewed up by the gearbox :( oh well. Mine had the shit wires on the motor leads so I'll replace them from the main board with something better. Gonna mod my selector plate at the metal contact strip a bit too so in semi it makes better contact with the ascu switch assembly.

also going to try and make me some 9.9v life batteries that will fit my crane stock from some a123 cells and see how they go. Not so happy they'll only be 1100mah but I got enough for 4 packs for free so why not try.

I finally did it!

ASCU + battery both fit inside an M4 stock tube!
(the battery is a G&P 7.4V 1200mAh 15C, and the stock is a magpul PTS UBR).

Here's a video : YouTube - Airsoft - ASCU Mosfet + Lipo Battery in M4 UBR Stock

It took a lot of effort, but in the end, it seems to work fine.

I haven't tried it in a game yet, and I have a few concerns:
- first it seems that the battery consumption is a lot higher with the ASCU.
- then, I don't know how it'll hold in the long term. I did have to completely rewire the unit...

I'll post pictures later of the changes I made, if some of you are interested.

for some reason my ASCU didnt come with a Fuse....................

That's kind of odd. The blade fuses are pretty cheap though at automotive or possibly electronic stores.

sorry to drag it up again but i have the exact same problem - custom made gearbox - even the shell is custom etc - but no matter what i have the issue where my trigger only first a set number of times per minute. to be honest i think its limited to stop overheating etc. its not the battery as I'm running a hyperion 35c 11.1v 3300 mAh so cycle speed is insanely fast so its defo the mosfet that limits the number of times it will cycle in semi auto - i get about 28 rps on full so like i said - defo not a cyling issue.

CJay, I don't know, I actually fixed that problem.
The thing is that to test it out I have quickly made a crappy Deans (T) plug to Tamiya plug adapter and I hadn't soldered it too well. I think it was preventing the MOSFET from working properly (it was probably preventing the current from flowing properly).

Are you still using Tamiya plugs ? If you are, you show switch for T plugs.
Otherwise, just make sure it's well soldered.

Also check the connexions to the motor. Maybe the contact between the wires end and the motor connectors is not too good.

Just wanted to throw my 2 cents in

I just got the new gen 2 ASCU unit. i have it installed in a VFC SR16 using 11.1v 15c lipos with a s120 modify spring and g&p m120 high speed motor.

First ill talk about the selector plate, since the one in this model is a metal selector plate, its a good idea to tape the side that could come in contact with the body, i believe this is in the instructions and they even send you with a special kind of tape in the new gen two box, I was having problems with switching to semi and full going back and forth when i went back to semi it would still shoot full, and vise versa, to solve this issue i took the dremal to the side where the unit contacts hit the plate and basically took enough away so that its nice and smooth between semi and full and safe.

Second issue i was having is the small ribbon cable i found even the slightest rub would tear it, and wires could pull out of their new connector very easily, however i do like the fact you can completely remove the new ribbon cable and pop in a new one.

Now the major problem i was having was over spinning causing double feeding on every shot the active breaking wasn't working the best by the time it stopped there was two bbs in the barrel. I tried different gear sets, hop up units, tapet plates, with no luck, so i said what the hell and threw the anti reversal latch back in. Now i know it says not to do this but i did, and guess what fixed my problem to make sure i would not cause any damage to the unit i put a few thousand rounds threw it and so far so good,

Don't know if this was already posted i skimmed through the 6 pages and didn't really see anything but i thought i would share this info in case anyone was having the same problem.

Over all im happy with the new unit, the new features with the 4 different modes, 3 round burst works really well, as well as the semi only lock out feature

Over spin is directly related to motor torque. They recommend you find a motor that is difficult to turn by hand. The harder to turn by hand, the stronger the magnets. The stronger the magnets, the faster it will stop (active brake) when shooting.

Currently using a G&P m170 and have no over spin issues. Spring is an m120.

Also, the AR latch is going to be more affected with connecting your battery Vs. shooting. When you plug in your battery, the beeping you hear is the motor parking and 'setting' the gears. take the motor out and plug the battery in and you'll see it spin and reverse.

I am personally running 2 different setups and neither have the AR latch nor are they required.

I used a Jing Gong M-93 motor, available for about 30$ from ebairsoft.com, and without the mosfet it had so much torque it would overspin in single, the ASCU controlled that and it shot perfectly with the unit. That motor would make instant shots, if I go ASCU again I will definitely buy that one.

thanks for the info guys, as i said this is what i tryed and it seemed to work, i did notice what you were talking about when you plug the batt in.

What would you recommend for a motor that will have the magnet power and but will provide high speed

what kind of ROF are you looking for? I'd put a smaller spring in and that should help reduce your over spin double feed problems.

I can't really help you if you want a ridiculous ROF while keeping the m120 but both my m4 and mp5 are running a modify s120 or something close to it and I am still getting a decent ROF with the G&P m170 motor. (note, the mp5 has a high torque JG motor in it)

I use an EG 700, never had a single overwind problem. Very satisfied with my ASCU so far, the ribbon repair in a pain in the ass, slow, tedious job, but its doable. The new one with the removable ribbon is very smart.

current set up im using a modify quantum pistoin, and a modify s120 spring, and the gp m120 motor and getting 25 bb/s would love to keep it around there.

I do have a guarder torque up motor the one airsoftparts has, gunna take out the anti reversal and try that motor see what i get


Update: i switched to my higher torque motor with out the ARL and working as should,

Waw there is a new version... no wonder why the price for the 1st gen had just dropped before I bought mine. Anyways after trying to tweak mine to much (I had almost done it cf the vidéo I posted earlier) it died.

Could someone give me measures of the new ASCU's main unit? If it's small enough to fit in my M4 UBR tube.

I managed to fit the old version by sanding the inside of the tube and rewiring the unit (it took me like 3 afternoons) but I don't know if i'll be able to do the same with the new one.

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7018/img0300x.jpg

How do you mean died? The dimensions of the gen 2 are even smaller than the first.



glad it worked.

Died, Nothing's happening anymore, no bip when plugged. I'm guessing either the microcontroller is dead or reset. There is no apparent damage in the outside so it's hard to tell.

I'm actually going to need some accurate measures of the unit if someone is kind enough to provide me with that. It could again be a really tight fit even if it's smaller out of the box (again, to fit the first gen, I had to go through a sh*t load of trouble).

I want to fit it and the battery into my Magpul UBR Stock for AEG. I widened the inside (did a lot of sanding).

Anyone? Please

I bought the 1st gen ASCU about a year back from HK. Im still having problem trying to make the selector plate work in my dboys M4 since then...

I got the new sets of gears & goten also a infinite torque motor from Guarder, everything properly shimmied & motor height done properly, goten a new systema selector plate to work with the ASCU, running on M120 spring with 11.1v 1500mah lipo..

My problem eventually remains just the selector plate acting weird (with 5x5cm cut away)... in the semi auto mode the gun fires in 3 burst, & after about 3 trigger pulls then there is a 2 beeps from the ASCU, every time... in full auto mode the gun fire only once then 2 beeps & stop firing...

here is a bunch of question, just to make things clear:
When in semi auto mode does the 2 prong springs touching the copper part of the selector plate, & in the full auto mode does all the 3 prong springs touching the plate? & if the top selector plate is cut about 6mm (instead of 5mm according to the manual) does it still going to function well? What actually is the proper relations between the selector plate with the cut out lever & the 3 prong springs anyways?

The idea of cutting the SP is to allow the cut off lever to act freely, otherwise in normal operation in full auto the SP desactivates the cut-off lever, while using an ASCU you must make sure that the SP doesn't engages with the cut-off, as this is how the unit counts his shots for the 3-round burst. So basically, if you cut more it could just solve your problems. I don't have my unit or manual anymore, but if you check on the internet site of airsoft systems you might find the manual, and all the error message sounds are listed, and could help you understand your issue.

do two things:
1) Check the clearance for your cutoff lever and if it interferes still, cut a hair more than the suggested 5mm along the width of the selector plate. Be careful to not cut too much.

2) slightly bend up the switch assembly contacts.



In safe, no contacts should be touching the selector plate. 2 in semi, and 3 in full.

ok let get this straight.. when in semi mode, the SP touching the 2 prong springs but not engaging the cut-out lever? In full auto the SP is touching the all the 3 prong springs & engaging the cut-out lever?

I dont have a spare SP right now, just afraid I might end up cutting cutting a little bit too much... as now, as suggested it may look like i may need to cut extra 2mm away on top of the original 5mm cut...

what a headache....

I've found from experience that if the cutoff lever is not engaging and disengaging properly, the gun won't fire and you'll get the double beep and everything will stop working. Install the cutoff lever and the sector gear with the ASCU micro switch. Turn the sector gear until the cutoff lever engages. See how much the ASCU lever moves up, and if it doesn't go as high as it can, bend the cutoff lever until it does. You might have to file the end of the cutoff lever a bit for it to function and fit. Keep doing this until the ascu lever can move almost to the end of it's travel. Be sure that it also can go back to rest without the ascu lever engaged.

has any one cut their selector plate much more than 5mm off??

to know if you've cut enough, move the selector plate all the way to the right and see if it touches the cutoff lever. If it doesn't touch, you're good. Take some off if it does.

haha sory if this sounded stupid.. you mean move the SP all the way to the right is at semi or full auto mode? you're saying in semi mode it does not touch the cutout lever at all right?

Yes, move it over to the "full auto" section or as far as it will go that way, if the part that use to retain the spring doesn't touch the cutoff lever, you're good. File a bit if it does.

If I remember correct I had to remove more than specified, as far as there is a contact between the CO lever and the SP, it will double beep 95% of the time. Don't be afraid of cutting a little bit more, as it doesn't work anyway. If you end up breaking the SP, then at least you would've tried !

ok, it means that SP is not to have any contact whatsoever with the cutout lever in any time yea?

sorry if this still sounds stupdi.. just can get to understand the concept of the ASCU :)

Yes. It's not suppose to contact the cutoff lever at all. Trim more left to right vs up and down to retain strength in the selector plate.

Also, take the spring out and cycle the gears with the selector plate in semi and auto to make sure it cycles properly and completely.

[QUOTE=coachster;1491880]Yes. It's not suppose to contact the cutoff lever at all. Trim more left to right vs up and down to retain strength in the selector plate.

Also, take the spring out and cycle the gears with the selector plate in semi and auto to make sure it cycles properly and completely.[/QUO


My good... All this while more than 1 year it's just coz it's needed few more mm to cut... The people at info@airsoftsystems.com wasn't any help on my problem.... Thanks for the info guys...