How about this,

http://www.ebairsoft.com/glock-1718c-mount-p-7677.html

Who's first?

Look for the Action ones. I think they have them in stock at eHobby...

THat doesn't look bad.
Dat aimpoint, though...

Action ones of what?

hi everyone, thank you for this gold mine, this guide is awesome, after having read everything, watched all the videos
Here’s, the list of update a I made :

SLIDE :
-Guarder aluminum slide
-Guarder steel outer barrel
-tanio koba twist Inner Barrel
-NineBall hop up bucking
-Gunsmodify BBU - CNC Glock Blow Back Housing
-Guarder Steel Night Sight
- Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Loading Nozzle
-Guarder Recoil Spring Guide

FRAME:
-Guarder Original Fiber Reinforced Polymer Frame (TAN)
-Guarder Serial Number Plate
-Guarder Steel Trigger Lever (installed but removed because the cycle was not well, I reinstalled the original)
-Guarder Steel magazine catch
-GunsModify ZERO Hammer (Ver.3)
-Guarder 150% Hammer Spring
-Gunsmodify SAI Aluminum Adjustable Trigger (version 2)
-Guarder Magwell extension
- Stippling on the frame


MAG:
-Nineball gas route seal rubber
-Nineball high bullet valve NEO ‘R’ (not installed yet)

FUTUR UPGARDE :
- SAI slide costa style (black and gold)
- Firefly rocket valve

NOTE
everything is installed correctly, I spent time filing and adjusting all parts, the Glock have a very smooth cycle now.
So with Guarder 150% Hammer Spring, the slide does not block when the magazine is empty, there is not enough gas and power in the charger to block the slide. I have to test with the original Hammer spring.

i have one question, there's really a big difference between the original Hammer Spring and Guarder 150% Hammer Spring, because with the original spring i have a smoother cycle but i don’t have chrony to make test.

The enhanced hammer spring causes more resistance to the slide stroke. That's why you feel more resistance than with the stock Marui one.

More tension = more resistance.

Also, you won't really notice much of a difference in FPS outputs unless you get a high output magazine valve. The Marui Glock will always top out at around 300-310FPS with an enhanced hammer spring.

What an enhanced hammer spring will do is provide a nice consistent hammer strike to the magazine valve. Thus, you'll get a more stable FPS reading or at least a tighter group of FPS outputs...

Thank you for the response, and What about the slide, The slide that does not want to block when the magazine has no BB'S But there is still gas but not enough to push and block the slide in rear potision

Can you try a different magazine to see if the lever on the magazine pushes up the slide catch?

If you manually pull the slide back with an empty magazine, does the slide still lock back?

About mecanism no problem it Works like a charm, And yes the lever on the magazine pushes up the slide catch,
And yes again when I manually pull the slide back with an empty magazine, the slide still lock back.
Also yes, when I filled the magazine of gas, and put on it 10 or 15 BB'S, like that it works there is enough gas after i shoot all the BB'S to lock the slide.
But full gas and full BB'S after i shoot all the BB'S there is still little gas on magazine tank but not stronger to Block the slide.
Note:I filled tank magazine for 5 to 7 seconds with ULTRAIR GAS.

Once again sorry about my english I'm Ã* french Airsoft player.

Good morning!

I am a French new member on this forum. So please excuse me for the faults, I'll do my best on this! I really found it was one of the most interesting and helpful regarding the Glock upgrade...

Before purchasing my Glock, I read carefully everything that was written here, but I still have questions, since I would like advices based on your real experiences with available materials to make the "ultimate" Glock.

So my base is the following:
- Tokyo Marui Glock 17
- complete guarder kit with aluminium slide, frame, 150% recoil spring, steel trigger lever, steel catch magazine, reinforced hammer spring.
- guarder metal night sights

I was very lucky since I didn't have to sand or modify anything to make it fit and work correctly, except the lever pushed by the magazine to lock the slide (it was taking place beside the button instead of pushing it, not a big deal at all). Maybe is this because of the 2013 version, that could have been enhanced by guarder to make it fit better. I was also lucky to find the kit since it is sold out almost everywhere (I ignore if this could due to the legal attacks from Glock against copy of their models).
It cycles perfectly, do not create any shooting issue, and I can shoot more or less two mags before it comes empty of gaz.

I made a mistake, that I will solve soon: I didn't try the out of box TM before the upgrade, so that I can't compare performance. Stupid, I know... It won't be complicated to reinstall the original slide to try it, and I will.

Concerning the guarder kit, I am really happy of the result, even if I can see some minor defects in surfacing on the slide

My interest with this Glock is:
- having the most possible "RS looking like", but it seems that I am on the good way.
- Improve precision and shooting distance, since I use it for target shooting only. I don't care about FPS until they bring a real + for target shooting.

First of all, a strange thing happens with the magazine which is stock, out of the box. On my USP KSC, there is no noise when I fill the gaz. On the Glock, I have a strong "pshiiit" all a long the operation, although the gaz bottle is in the correct position. Don't know if it is normal or not. The magazine fills correctly. Can you please tell me if there is some issue there?

For the rest, I would like to know if some other pieces could enhance distance and precision, without spending money for nothing in pieces that won't bring significant effects...
I was thinking mainly about:
- nozzle
- Aluminium BBU to reduce the weight of the slide
- precision barrel and hop-up rubber (is really the violet Nineball the must?)
- Somehting more important???

But you will probably be able to help me with what is fully compatible and interesting all together, and what is to be avoided, useless, or should not be mixed.

I have to say that I am a little bit lost with all the opposite advices I read an all the brands available, always promising the moon.

I also think to go for an aluminium trigger, just for more realism...
On my side, I am about to realize some grouping tests on different distances with the gun correctly blocked on a table to avoid movements. But too much wind today to even think about it.

Than you in advance for your help!!!

Zessy

That's Great news!
Glad it worked out for you!

I don't really notice a whole lot of difference between the old Guarder frame and the new ones. The only thing noticeable was the fake body pin they added. That "NEW STRUCTURE" they put on the packaging, I find to be false. I don't really see any difference at all unless the frame itself was made of something else...

Yes that's normal.
The fill valve on most Marui guns don't have a n extra o-ring like the KSC mags do.

THe only thing on this list that will help you gain more distance is the bucking.

You don't HAVE to get the Nineball. There have been better ones that came out after I made this post.

Particularly, the A+ buckings with the hop assist. I hear they are pretty good. I don't normally use them, to be honest. I run the Airsoft Surgeon NON-HOP inner barrel and bucking combo nowadays. Just cause I never really use my hop up anymore since my targets are always pretty close.

Also, remember the weight of your ammunition affects distance. So you should look into that as well.

Accuracy is something that has a lot of variables associated with it.
Ambience plays a huge role. Without knowing where you're shooting, it's impossible to recommend a good set up specific to your battlegrounds.

Aluminum triggers are more novelty more than anything. As you said, they are more for preference more than anything.

The GunsModify trigger is an aluminum trigger with adjustable trigger pull lengths. The thing is, the grub screw for that adjustment tends to just unscrew unless it's loctited. Once loctited, it basically negates the idea of it being "adjustable" in the future. LOL.

Hi,

Many thanks for this quick feedback.
First of all, I am happy for the magazine, I was afraid there were some issue with it...

For the bucking, I imagine this corresponds to hopup rubber, correct?

As a personnal test on it,I just had a poor experience with this supposed fantastic A+ for my usp from KSC, and honestly it makes just shit on this model, even with hop up at the maximum. The bbs fall at 10 to 15 meters. Much worst than with the original rubber from ksc. Maybe the weight of the bbs I use (0.25) is responsible of this, but this isn't really a good experience for such an expensive rubber. If you have an idea on this, I take... I will try it with the excell 0.2 I have in stock, but I don't really have hopes.
So I definitely would prefer to go on something else, that would really demonstrate efficiency.

For the game field, I shoot in my garden, so I am subject to all usual athmospheric constraints. I can have a field of 20 to 50 m more or less.

As said, I use 0.25 bbs, because it seems that heavier gives more precision, even if it loses some distance. I guess I probably didn't found yet the correct balance for this.

For the trigger, I am not even interested in the adjustable system, this would in fact be just for the metal aspect instead of the plastic original. For fun :p

Too much wind today again for good and accurate grouping tests, unfortunately.

On the kit, I was a bit surprised to find a steel outer barrel with the aluminium slide, but I suppose that guarder provides elements that go all together.
Edit: just found the reason when taking off the slide for a check: the outer barrel rubs inside the slide during the cycle. Having the barrel harder than the slide permits the wear to occur inside the slide instead of on the angle of the outer barrel, which would be very visible, and not so nice at all. Good to know! The barrel loses a little bit of its surface treatment, but keeps its nice sharp shape.

Another step would be to check the correct sealling of the gas route, but I don't have the beginning of an idea on how to proceed. Would a sealing gas route kit bring someting better? Or a new piston, valve... Complete set... Arf... Not so easy to point the really good upgrades!

Just for information, until which distance can I hope to shoot with accuracy with this kind of gbb? Is a 40 m a dream, or is this reachable with an intelligent upgrade?

And last question: except the slide and springs supplied in the guarder kit, should I bring any modification to the magazine or the mechanic to accept correctly the use of green gaz?

Despite the wind, I made a first test by hand, without blocking the gun for perfect stability, and without paying a lot attention to the precision. 16 meters (not a lot at all, but this is a first step) from the target, 24 of the 25 bbs are concentrated in a square of 10 x10 cm, without any effort. I will soon test at 30 and 40 meters, blocking the gun to check what it gives, but this seems promising.

Thanks!

Yup.

Keep in mind the KSC hop up system is different in design.

In my opinion, just plainly and purely sux.

I prefer Marui's hop up system simply because it can apply direct pressure to the BB that's necessary to impart the spin it needs to slice through environmetal conditions.

Yup. THis tends to happen.

I usually round off the corner on the chamber just to make it easier.
This usually happens because of the fit between the outerbarrel and the hop up unit is a bit off. THe barrel cannot fully tilt at the amount of time the slide travels back. Thus it will rub on the underside of the slide.

There are numerous ways to deal with this issue. You'll have to find one that suits your set up.

If you're magazine isn't leaking, don't do anything to it.

Opening it up and stuff only ruins the tightness of those pins and can cause major headaches.

If you mean, gas transfer from magazine to slide, the only one way to spot this is if you see mist or gas fly out from the beneath the slide. lol. You will feel less kick in the gun and your slide catch will not engage if the seal is really bad.

40m is pretty long range.

I tune my guns to shoot between 85-95 ft accurately before the bb's start to drop in their flight path. Even then, my ambient conditions have to be pretty good with minimal obstacles for bullet trajectory.

At 40m, you're better off using your primary gun than a pistol...

No.
Your stock magazine can handle green gas just fine.

Again, if you're magazine isn't leaking, don't do anything to it. This is where leaks start to happen if the magazine is put back the wrong way...

Thanks again!
Noted for the magazine and all the rest. Won't touch anything on it. No gas seems to go out of the slide during the cycles, so this stays as it is.

Good to read and confirm that with the Marui, there is quite nothing to do to get it near pefrect! Really happy with this basis.

I will try to chase info concerning teh slide wear, even if for the moment I don''t have any idea of what I have to look about. I imagine I have to look for a solution permit to place the outer barrel just a little bit lower than it is now?

Noted also for the rub.
I will first make my tests of range / precision with the original system, before eventually upgrading to a new rub and a tanyo koba twist barrel if I am not totally satisfied with what I get here.

For the 40m range of action, you are right, I am probably optimistic :D. I will certainly review my "wishes" after the tests. Let's see how it comes.
Have a nice day!

Hi,

I just ordered pdi palsonite 6.01 barrels for both my ksc ups and tm glock, directly to the builder in Japan, X-fire, for the incredible price of 46 € for both barrels, shipment offered (special offer of the moment). Less expensive than the barrel in France for only one gun!
Let´s see what it gives once I receive this! I am impatient to check the result with this. A nine ball violet or a+ hop up rub (most probably the nine ball) will soon complete the glock, I will insist with the a+ for the usp, since it is installed already, and not the less expensive of the available rubs...

EDIT: nine ball received and installed: AMAZING! the gain is incredible.
Without paying attention to an accurate adjustment of the hop up, the bbs go straight right more or less 5 meters farer than with the standard TM rub. I earned shooting distance, but most of all, the bbs seem to go straight longer and to fall much later than before. Remains to check precision.
Important to notice: my guarder hammer spring broke and I had to reinstall the marui original one before receiving the rub, I significantly lost in distance with this (guarder slide installed, heavier than the original TM). I'll make another test once I replace this hammer spring, since it significantly changes things with the guarder kit. The gain of distance might be quite different with the correct hammer spring.

Bad surprise today. I was enjoying shooting with the Glock while waiting for my barrel and hop up rub to finally arrive, and then after few shots, no reaction of the trigger... :confused:
After dismantling, I saw that the guarder hammer spring, said to be reinforced, is broken.
I have reinstalled the original Marui, but I guess it won't last long.
Is there any real reinforced hammer spring, or am I condemned to buy a collection of guarder to replace regularly?

I see some action 150%, some AIP (both available in France for reasonnable price) or shooters design enhanced (in Asia, with huge shipment expenses, even if it seems to be good stuff): Are all of them equally recommended respecting the guarder (meaning more resistant than the guarder, with the same strength wich was good on my model)?
Any other that I could look for?

Thank you for your answer!

Ladies and gentlemen, I may have a solution to our issue of the front screw post breaking.

Typically, the pattern of breakage has been TM>HK3>Guarder frames (First to last). The Guarder frames eventually break, however, as while they have a brass insert, it doesn't go very deeply, and the post shears where the insert ends.

Today, while I was messing around with my HK3 frame in preparation of a build, I measured the post and found it a hair under 6mm, which fits a WE stock barrel snugly. I realized that I could use this barrel to create a brass sleeve for the post, and since it was a WE stock barrel, work with a dremel would allow me to have half of this sleeve in the pocket created by the trigger guard, allowing me to embed it with JB weld and create a solid foundation for the post. Using this sleeve would mean making the hole in Part 18 larger, but I don't think that should be an issue.

This means that when the gun is fired, the recoil forces on the plastic polymer are shared with the sleeve and this should reduce shear breakage and eliminate post disintegration (With a tight sleeve around the post, fractures would be contained, etc.)

I've included a picture. What are your thoughts, Glock techs? I plan on doing this in the next few days.

http://i.imgur.com/1fzIdIg.jpg?1

The AABB loading nozzle is mentioned in the op; has anyone else used it? Curious about how long it lasted.

I suggest you go for the Shooter's Design Hammer spring.
I've never once ran into a bad situation with them. You buy one and you'll never have to replace it as frequently as the Guarder ones....

They're pretty crappy in my experience. They don't seal well with the stock piston head and they last a few hundred shots before it decides to crack open like fortune cookie.

My suggestion is to invest in a really good one...

I just would like to bring my stone concerning repairs to do on plastic with a nice tip I learned when my girlfriend broke our brand new car roof case in a parking...
When and only when the plastic is ABS (I hope this is the same name in English than in French, please correct me if not), you can use Lego bricks instead of epoxy...
Lego is ABS. The idea is to reconstruct the broken piece, adding the exact same material, to give it again its original strength. Easy:
- Take a brick of lego of the same color than your broken piece
- Place it in a glass jar with a lid and add a bit of acetone. Not too much, but you should at least fill the brick itself, and have just a bit around
- Close the jar and let few hours
- The lego will solve and create a paste. If it´s too hard, add some acetone. Too liquid, just let the jar open and acetone will evaporate.

When you have a creamy paste, you will need to prepare the piece to weld.
- Cut or send the edges of the broken part, just to create a small empty area for the paste. - Use a brush to apply acetone where you will weld, in order to start solving the plastic and prepare it to fuse with the paste
- then insert some of your lego paste in this empty area with a wood tip, a match or any other small tool your are ready to sacrify. Try to smooth it as much as you can to optimize the aspect, to limit the sanding.
Let it dry at least 24 hours (can be more following the quantity of paste used and its dilution) to let the acetone fuse the piece together with the paste, then sand, finish with painting if necessary.
Your piece should have become as hard and solid than the original.

I repaired this way my roof case, wich was cracked and cut in various way. I even reconstructed a part of few centîeters that was missing.
I used the case a lot after that, filled it too much, pushed hard on it to close it... Never cracked again, and this was 4 years ago. So this works. But ONLY on ABS plastics.
If this can help...

Palsonite received today and just installed.
with hop up at the maximum, I shoot between 25 and 30 meters before the bbs falls. Is this a good value???

One problem: the action of the hop up regulation isn't so visible, I am in the impression that the rub is so hard that it pushes up the metal plate of regulation and isn't compressed as it should. in fact, looking inside the barrel, the change is minimum when going from zero to max, and the metal plate seems really elastic. Is this possible? Any solution for this?

I have just ordered the shooters design hammer spring to replace the original TM. Will this enhance again distance or precision, in delivering more gaz? By chance, I have a colleague in Hong Kong who will send it to me as a letter, so no custom fees and dossier (more expensive than the springs, I ordered 2 just in case...)

Thanks!!!

Yeah that's pretty damn acceptable.

Yes this is normal.

The hop up arm needs to have give a little give for the BB to successfully enter the hop up unit.

But what happens over time is that the tension of that hop up arm will loosen. Thus creating the symptoms you are describing.

The solution is buy a steel hop up arm or modify the arm yourself.
The steel hop up arm is quite beneficial and have proven to be the most effective in my opinion.

No.

The hammer spring only regulates how much gas is expelled.
Meaning, you'll get more consistant FPS outputs regardless of magazine temperatures in comparison to the stock Marui spring.

It will not affect distance or accuracy.

Thank you e-luder for your answers.
The problem comes from the fact that I damaged it a bit during reassembly because I didn't pay attention to te wheel good position and the arm went beside and bent. So I had to twist it back to get its correct shape, but I guess it didn't like the operation at all. Sometimes I have 2 left hands, with only thumbs on them...

Any idea of who's building /selling these steel arms? This was in fact my first idea, but I didn't found any... I tried with my friend google and visited some forums, but there seems to be no subject for alternative models, or even for modification on the original one.

Would this be helful to heat it and then cool it down in water, or will this be worst?
Any other operation that can be done without damaging it more than it is or making it weaker than it became?

Has anyone tried putting a WE G17 on a Guarder G17 frame?

ILLusion here on ASC sells the steel arms But he's not been online lately.

Also, check proG4. Captain KK is pretty awesome and he sells those arms with the brass wheel for the Hi-capa. anddd yes. It will fit a Glock hop up.

I wouldn't try heating it up. Remember, that arm is pot metal. If you heat up too much it can melt or warp or something stupid. lol. And for the record, you don't need to heat it. Just bend it where the factory bended it.

Here's another method you try:
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=165305

Seems to have worked out for him.

YOu should be ok.

A little filing here and there. But I never really had to do any "extensive" modifications to any part of the Guarder frame or the WE innards.

The takedown lever will be a bit tight though. But this is also present on the Marui side as well. So I guess be prepared for that????

I fixed the front post issue for HK3 frames, and possibly Guarder frames.

I reasoned that if JB welding the front rails to the frame was the only way to ensure the front post would not snap, that a more reversible method would exist. I was reading about the Glock when I read about the second roll pin they added halfway through the third generation in order to reinforce the locking block.... idea.

I decided to drill out the hole in Part 18 where Part 33 enters, holding the leaf spring that pushes the slide lock up as well as providing detents for the safety plate. I drilled two corresponding holes in my frame (They were the thickest areas, don't worry), through which I inserted a solid pin. I slightly opened up the front post recess in Part 18 to avoid direct contact, directing the forces to our two pins, the added one and the trigger one.

The gun fires with and without the front post screw, and I think I've successfully redirected forces to the frame. I don't know if this will work for ABS frames- HK3's frames are nylon and more durable, same for Guarder. Even if the post breaks... the pins should hold the frame solidly.

... I think this is the most I've used my engineering degree for in some time.

http://i.imgur.com/8sfXpuq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MuMM2Hu.jpg?1

Wow.
Wish I thought of that.
Blows my design out of the water. lol.

Have you done any testing for it, MSC?
You'll have to let us know how it handles it.

Keep in mind, most of the impact is absorbed primarily by the screw itself. If your design is able to channel the kinetic energy and successfully transfer it to the secondary post, then you my friend deserve a diet coke, a pat on the back and a patent of some sort.

The casing breaks because it's soft. Thereby, allowing some sort of give when the load comes to the screw. Thus, when the give happens, the screw casing crumbles apart. It just needs to be stronger, that's all. lol.

The basic premise of the JB WELD method is to NOT allow any movement on the inner frame. I hope your design is the same effect as that.

TO be clear as well, the gun will always run without that stupid screw installed. But sometimes, you'll get a rocky slide action.
If you want, I'll gladly donate both a tinted and a full black Marui frame for you to test it on since they are the weakest frames out of the three brands, IMO...

I completed the modification this morning, and so far I have about 50 rounds through it, with another 50 dry fire. So far so good. I do plan on increasingly working in the pistol once the final parts of this build arrive. It is the same premise as bedding the parts in JBWeld- to remove all force on the post.

Part 18, the front rail block, is completely solid in its position. I haven't had any wiggling so far, which is good. At this point, I don't know if the opening I made in Part 18 is big enough not to contact the screw post- Guess it's irrelevant if the screw is taking the force (if any). I do know, however, that that post could explode and the front rail block wouldn't budge- Which is fine by me, as long as my pistol keeps functioning smoothly. At the moment I can't tell the difference between screw and no screw. My concern, however, is how well the frame takes the load at those two pins. It seems QLong's method of pushing the load to the trigger pin has no ill effects, but one can never be too certain.

If anything, the downside of this modification is the complexity and risk. It took me two hours, a dremel, and a drill to get this modification done. It is a modification of the frame in a very, very visible area. Done right, it looks great. Done wrong... oh dear. You lose a frame, the front rail block, and possibly more. As well, purists will freak out at the thought of an extra pin where there wouldn't be one on the RS.

E-Luder, I'm sure you have more equipment and more parts to work with than I do (Fun fact, I would have killed for a workbench and drill press today... oh the life of a new grad) If I instead donate the clear frame and pictures/specs of the modification, would you be interested in testing it out?

On an unrelated note... these things are miles easier to work on than the KSC/KWA ones, and the two stage trigger/reset is godly... I managed to make my roommate nearly buy a Glock based on that reset haha.

TL : DR- This mod makes the screw post irrelevant (Except for indexing during the pin install) and the only concern is the frame where these holes are punched through for the two pins.

Your tip for the hop arm is so damned easy that I didn't even think about!
At the moment bending it a bit seems enough, even if I have some side spin in end of course of the bbs. I will try to change a bit the angle to fix this.
After what, I guess taht I can't do much more for enhancement. The nozzle will come once it breaks only since it doesn't seem to change so much respecting the original one, and I am waiting for the sd hammer springs to finish the job.

Looking accurately at it, I feel a little bit disappointed with the surface finishings of the guarder slides. Polishing before anodization isn't so nice, and the color isn't uniform, some areas are clearer than others. But I think that once the surface will be worn, I will polish everything accurately and make a new anodization, or a parkerization if it stands on aluminium.
For the rest, it works and looks nice however.
E-luder, I really thank you for your help, comments and tips, you seem to be the bible of tm glock!
I can't imagine how much you spent to test all this stuff!

Fun fact, don't loctite the rear BBU screw if your sights are plastic. I did that last night, fired the gun today... and my rear sight exploded.

ERTW

I'm so old, I don't even know what this means...
What do these letters stand for?

Believe it or not, I probably have the least equipment in my shop than most gun techs. I don't even have an armorer''s wrench anymore. Sold it for cigarettes and coolers. 2% ones at like...NoFrills or something.

But i do know how to use my tools well. heh. :D

You should run your tests as close to "normal" as possible. That means the screw should be present in your tests. This is just normal quality control. Also you should do two tests. One without the second pin and one with it. It'd be interesting to see the results.

Just make sure you bend it correctly.
Bend it where the factory bended it.

Don't just "bend" it. if you bend it this way, you will put an unbalanced pressure on the rubber. The one side will have more pressure than the other.

Engineers rule the world... I believe spoken ironically considering the amateur mistake of attempting to loctite ABS.

At the moment I don't have a second Marui to work with and this modification pretty much is irreversible... I'll keep running mags through this thing and let y'all know when and if it starts to go. I am building a G22 for a friend who's joined Toronto Police in the fall, so I might do my testing then if someone hasn't beaten me to it. QLong would love this modification, though I seem to have trouble reaching him these days.

:O

A G22?
For like...training and stuff?

A TM G22 is surprisingly deceptive in weight and kick. It looks "heavy" but it's really light. Especially on the front end of the gun. But then again, the gun is pretty lightweight enough anyways.

The AS SAI G22 slide kit is super light and the Detonator G22 Hybrid is...well...a hybrid.
I had to make those two slides heavier to even remotely resemble the heftiness of a real gun.

If for airsoft, go nuts.

THe moral of the story is...
G22 good.

Have you tried PM'ing Qlong?
He's probably the most knowledgeable Glock tech (and probably other GBBs) here with more resources....
I'd say, he'd be the go to guy for Glocks...

If you need anything from me though, you know how to reach me.
1-800-SEX-6969
:|

PS. For record, I'll try out your mod sometime in the next few weeks. I just really can't find time nowadays to sit and work on anything airsoft.
So...wish me luck! lol.

this is my SAI glock 17 custom based on glock 17 marui, some pics of my job .


SLIDE :
-Airsoft Surgeon SAI Arms Costa Style Slide and outer barrel
-tanio koba twist Inner Barrel
-NineBall hop up bucking
-Gunsmodify BBU - CNC Glock Blow Back Housing
-CNC Costa style glass fiber iron sights
- Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Loading Nozzle
-Guarder Recoil Spring Guide

FRAME:
-Guarder Original Fiber Reinforced Polymer Frame (TAN)
-Guarder Serial Number Plate (installé puis enlevé je cherche a graver mon pseudo dessus au lieu des faux numero de serie)
-Guarder Steel Trigger Lever
-Guarder Steel magazine catch
-GunsModify ZERO Hammer (Ver.3)
-Guarder 150% Hammer Spring
-Gunsmodify SAI Aluminum Adjustable Trigger (version 2)
-Guarder Magwell extension
- Stippling on the frame

MAG:
-Nineball gas route seal rubber
-Nineball high bullet valve NEO R
-speed plate magpull


http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/25...729272433n.jpg
http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/91...312605795o.jpg
http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/25...674990869n.jpg
http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/37...194753215n.jpg
http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/22...247246402n.jpg


https://www.facebook.com/ghostface.fulloas/...202593326618659

I'm having this weird issue with my g17/g18 (it has the guns modify costa kit). Sometimes when I fire it, the slide would blowback and a big plume of gas comes flying out of the rear of the slide and the rear of the ejection port (in front of the rmr). This pretty much continues till i fire the mag until its pretty low on gas. The plume of gas is gone, but the gun is shooting sluggish at this point cause most of the gas was lost during the previous ordeal. Im using the guns modify nozzle, tm rocket valve, guns modify bbu, aip piston lid, guns modify zero hammer, shooters design 150% hammer spring. (the guns modify piston swelled a bit i think cause it wont let the nozzle freely move and the guns modify rocket valve broke). Im also using propane.

300-400 rounds in with the modification. No cracking observed at all.

You, my friend, have just found a fix to the problem.
Well done.

This is usually where th stock frame breaks if not sooner than 400rds.
Keep the expirement going til you break it (if at all)...

anybody know where I can get a replacement Marui Glock 17 Hammer Housing? Mine Cracked.

@ELuder: We'll see how it goes. I've upgraded the pistol so wear should occur a higher rate.

@DesertF0x9: WGC Shop.

only thing I was able to find was this, I don't typically like using clone internals as they never fit properly.

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...&view_choice=a

That's a Glock 18c hammer mech. It wont work ona G17.
Check Tokyo Model Company. They might have some left...

bummer TMC is sold out

Still no breaking. The gun is firing same as always. Two hundred more rounds in.

Mental musings: Would a dual recoil spring assembly reduce the damage done to a stock frame? The force would slightly increase overall, but the momentum of the slide hitting the frame would be reduced.

Hey guys. I have a Tokyo Marui G17 Custom and I'm trying to get it work with the WE Custom Aluminium slide and outer barrel.

After some grinding to fit the outer barrel on the lower part of the body, I am now stuck with two problems.

First problem is, that when the slide is in a normal position (see the attachment), the slide lock button doesn't fall in its normal position. I have to pull back the slide for 1-2mm, than the slide lock button goes in its normal position, now however the slide is positioned 1-2mm behind it's normal position and does not want to move further forward.
Interesting thing here is that if I remove the recoil spring assembly, slide goes into its normal position just fine, so does the slide lock button, but I was so far unable to identify the place where the recoil spring assembly could block anything...

Nonetheless, even from that position slide goes back fine and replica fires normally. The second problem is that once the slide finishes it's cycle, the trigger remains soft - i.e. I can press it, but it does not release the hammer. If I cycle the slide manually, it works as expected - trigger is ready for another shot. Also, if I shoot with an empty mag (as in no BBs), and the slide gets stopped by a slide stop lever - once I release the lever, trigger functions normally.

I have tried the slide on a WE Glock and it works normally. I have also tried both original Marui hammer spring, and what looks like a 150% spring that came with the slide, tried with both Marui and WE mag, 9 bar and 12 bar gas, all with the same result. Currently I am out of ideas, so any advise or similar experience would be welcome!

WE and TM parts in theory are compatible, but in actuality are not due to variations in tolerances. I'd advise obtaining the correct slide for TM to avoid damaging your gun.

Bummer... I would not have purchased the item if it wouldn't be advertised as "for WE/ Marui Glock 17" :banghead:

The recoil spring guide isn't blocking anything.
It's the force of it pushing back that makes your slide lock not want to function properly.

All it takes is a few milimeters to misalign everything. If you're hop up unit moves even just a tiny bit when the recoil spring guide is installed, It will cause the issues you describe. Remember, the notch on the hop up unit where the slide lock "locks" on to is angled. So if that notch becomes more vertically aligned due to the recoil spring guide pushing on it, it will cause the issues you describe.

Or if the outerbarrel is horribly not up to Marui spec, the recoil spring guide will push on the hop up unit such that the hop up unit will "crimp" the slide lock out of position.

Judging from the fact that you're trying to run a WE kit to a Marui system, there are bound to be little mishaps like this. WE outerbarrels are slightly different from marui ones.

You're trigger...

You're trigger bar is probably not functioning properly.
This needs closer inspection on how it interacts with the sear and blowback unit.

I don't know since I can't see how it's functioning but I could venture a guess that it is blowback unit related since it can still function when you manually charge it....

I recently picked up a Marui G17 and a Guarder frame, however when I swapped over to the new frame, I was noticing my slide was not returning to battery. I could push it back fine, but it seemed to begin hanging up about 3/4" out of battery. Releasing the slide would have it stop about 1/4" from battery.

I swapped back to the clearsoft frame, and the slide seems to cycle fine, but on the Guarder frame, it seems to run into friction problems. Is this a common occurence? Should I be sanding down the frame where the slide rests to get a better cycle? I did run a piece of paper between the slide on both frames, and there was definitely more resistance on the Guarder frame, which indicates some fitting may be required.

I did test fire a magazine through the gun, and this being my first experience with an airsoft gun, I think I'm hooked. I'm eyeballing a slide/barrel upgrade next. Thoughts on the Detonator kit? It looks like it might be the best, fit & finish wise. But that price... also, slides and barrels are kosher to order from outside of Canada, yes?

With the reinforced frame, I've started moving towards exchanging all my magazines for the APS CO2 magazines. Testing using the APS magazine resulted in an 40 FPS boost on my pistol- The gun, using TM stock magazines, was doing 280. With the APS magazines, it's doing a solid 320, and I don't have to worry about running out of gas.

If the gun survives this... we're good to go.

So I am a bit of a pickle here, I recently did some big upgrades to my TM Glock 17, on Normal Stock TM Mags the gun shoots full auto like an 18C. but when i borrow my friends WE Glock mags they shoot fine. So I'm thinking if its something to do with high flow valves since the WE come stock with them. Note that I will only be listing the parts I have changed in the gun. With my previous parts my gun works completely fine.

Parts I recently Modified:

Guns Modify CNC BBU
Action 8MM bearing Hammer Set
Guarder 150% Hammer Spring
Ready Fighter SAI Flat Trigger Paired with WE trigger Bar (My stock TM trigger bar was Threadlocked to my Guns Modify Trigger)

My new TM Glock 17 wasn't cycling properly so I took it apart and found that the front screw post on the frame had exploded. After some reading I found out that this was pretty common. Crap.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/VU...E=w800-h714-no
In the picture you can see the 3 individual pieces of the screw post that busted off.

I went to home depot and got some #6x32 blind anchors and some #6x32 countersunk machine screws and tried a DIY frame fix. I cut out the remaining part of the post and roughed up the area with a file. I drilled out the existing front rail hole to accommodate the larger #6 screw, threaded the the blind anchor on and covered the thread hole with a tiny piece of tape so the JB weld wouldn't get in the hole. I put a bit of JB weld into the old post socket, just enough to hit the bottom of the anchor and set the rails into the frame and let set. I backed out the screw the next day then filled the remaining cavity with more JB weld. This is what it looked like after drying.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...4-no/After.jpg
I trimmed the material off of the sides and where I got it a bit too high and reassembled. It was pretty quick to to and costs less than $15.

I have about 400 rounds through it and it seems to be working fine. I'm going to get a Guarder frame anyway, but I thought I'd be interesting to see how long it will work with this mod before it fails.

Phil,

THE two bolded components are a red flag for me.
I would swap out some internal stock components to see which one is causing what.

I know for a fact that the GunsModify BBU can act a bit wonky with aftermarket parts. Specifically piston heads. lol.

But yeah. I think that bearing and BBU combo might not be acting correctly.
So just swap a stock BBU to test the functionality of your Action 8mm bearing. Then swap to the stock bearing, to check and see if the Gomodify BBU is acting correctly. That's what I would do....

OR

THere's isn't not enough blowback to lock you hammer to sear hooks. That means that your gun is essentially short stroking.

Improve your piston head seal. Increase the hammer spring tension. And if neccessary, downgrade your recoil spring tension...

This increases your gun's capacity for blowback operation. Good seals + less resistance during the rearward stroke gets you a charged hammer (theoratically)...

There might be something else at play that I'm overlooking but I would start there....

Thanks E!!! ill check that out!!!

Oh btw your inbox is full couldn't reply you about that PM

Airsoft Surgeon Nozzle broke on me. Trying the Guns Modify nozzle, seems good, however it will not work with the AS Piston Head. The Airsoft Surgeon nozzles appear to be out of stock everywhere...

EDIT:

While the Gunsmodify Nozzle fits well with the stock TM piston head, it works even better with the Airsoft Surgeon piston head once an O-Ring Swap is made. Using the next smallest O-Ring out of a pack of 10 I bought at Canadian Tire, the perfect fitment is achieved with the AS Piston head- Not wobbly, but not too tight either. Snug would be a good way to describe it. Recoil seems to have improved slightly, I doubt this will increase FPS but I'll chrony tomorrow to see if it has.

TL;DR- Smaller O-Ring + AS Piston Head + Gunsmodify Nozzle = Win

I was dicking around with my g18c, and the slide got stuck. In the end I forced it off, but I ended up snapping my hammer in half.

I can't find a tm g18c hammer for now, would a g17 hammer work in its place?

Unless someone can sell me one, in which case, please pm me.

Thanks!

No. They are incompatible. You need a G18c specific hammer.

Since the guide was posted. What can I do to make my glock 18c more reliable? I know the frame, what else? I don't use full auto anymore. I also have been using duster gas as I'm afraid to use green gas. Metal slide+guarder frame? Spring with buffer? I already have a guarder mag catch and hammer spring.

What a great thread! Thanks! Have anyone out there seen original TM Glock 17 hop-up chambers for sale in an Asia webshop?

I can only find aluminum ones, and I prefer the original heavy one or steel/copper ones. My current one cracked off the bottom lip that locks in the barrel.

There's a whole bunch of over seas retailers that carry the stock hop unit.
I'm looking at one right now.

I don't think they ever made steel/copper ones though....

Can someone tell me where I can purchase the PGC slide and barrel for the marui g26? I can not find it anywhere and my plastic stock barrel cracked :/

I believe they're discontinued.

Thanks, that could be why. Any idea where I can get a Shooter’s Design g26 marui slide and barrel?

If you find one over seas be careful of the importing rules. I have a feeling there is a restriction on importing barrels/slides that are less than 5 inches...

Happy hunting

Not much help I know, but I recently looked around for an upgrade of my G26 slide, and after much searching in the Asia shops I could only find Guarder ones, so I went with that. Not cheap compared to G17 slides.

Here it is with the stock slide.

Attachment 46646

I ordered a Guarder frame & Prime G34 slide for my G18c. Was able to transfer all parts with no issues, except for the stock blow back unit. I filed the BBU a bit where I thought it was hitting. It looks like the BBU is all the way in, but, it covers the slide grooves. You can see this in the first picture below. I am starting to think they sent me a slide for another model glock. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thoughts?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/...9b01b722_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/...26e70209_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/...cc562772_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/...c02c2dc8_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/...dbc135c3_z.jpg

I probably should have read the entire write up before uploading my previous post. The WE BBU is not compatible, so I ordered:

Guns Modify BBU
Guarder loading nozzle
Guarder piston lid
AIP hopup

Hey guys,

What is a good night sight, preferable a tritium night site, as I dont want glow in the dark paint, that would fit on a PGC slide? The gunsmodify one is sold out everywhere.

How reliable are your glocks?

I've used mine and noticed that they are a bit lacking in the power department when the refs called out people not calling thier hit.

Especially at ranges over 50'. I would use green gas but that would me I would have to shell out 150 or more for the guarder and slide. I already have a guarder recoil spring and hammer spring. Just need the PGC slid and guarder frame and I should be OK right?
I know all these aftermarket parts can be a PIA similar to how aegs have parts that don't fit, like my shs air nozzle and g&p gearbox.

I installed only a nineball vsr bucking and first factory 6.03 barrel. I use duster gas, but as I said people were not calling hits often after 50', even direct headshots. I fired 10' f/a on a guys boot and he told me the only way he knew I hit his was when we physically saw BBS hitting him rolling off his plates carrier.

I've used stock TMs with green gas and have had no issues so far. You may wish to upgrade to that if your slide has metal reinforcements at the tip and at the slide lock notch. No modification will have as much of an effect as changing your gas.

Caspian brothers- Guarder frames, full steel internals, internals modded for smooth cycling, 6.01 inner barrel, 300-330fps, maximized gas efficiency to shoot more than 1 full mag of bb's with 1 fill of gas.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/IMG_4075.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/IMG_4074.jpg

Hey guys; just dusted off my old TM glock 26 advance. Realized however; not to sure how, but my front sight was missing. Anyone know how to just get a cheap replacement? Are the glock 17/18 front sights workable on the 26? will the other brands front sight fit in neatly? Only place ive been able to find one is in hong kong from guarder; in which case shipping is as much as the part itself =/

thanks in advance!

These RMR slides, require a specialize BBU do they not?
They usually come with the slide....

Yes they are.

After market sights will work. But "neatly" will never be case. You may need to modify the sight to fit.

If you have a plastic one, you can prolly bash the steel one in there. lol.
More friction is the tighter and better the sight will be held in place...

When in doubt:
http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/ce/ce032...67894fba7f.jpg

recoils spring, metal slides and frames don't contribute to upgrading your range. Those are durability spec upgrades.

If you want range, switch BBs, upgrade the bucking and tight bore.

Or you can just <gasp>
Use your primary. and hose the fuckers down...

I hate that you made that Caspian even more beautiful and functional.
Those look great!

Was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the guarder tight bore barrels, currently have a g34 project and from what I know they are supposed to be 116mm in length. was gona go with a PDI hi capa 5.1 inner but im scared because its too short it might cause issues as it exits the barrel.

PDI has a 6 inch barrel but thats too long. any ideas?

Two Slides kit
 

Hi guy, thanks for the awesome thread.
It to me two weeks to go throught it and got a load of information.

I got a little project with my tokyo Marui G17 Custom (tinted lower)
If i understood clearly, its the weakest of all the frames. So Ill try the MaybeStopCalling front post fix.

My project have two slides, I can swap.
#1) slide I can use on duster gaz for my Basemant shooting
#2) a slide i can use propane/GG for the outdoor shooting

I am looking for ,smoothness, precision, felt Recoil and durability.


#1) Duster Slide: Most parts will stay stock.
Guns Modify Zero Hammer Full Set w/ 150% Hammer Spring for Tokyo Marui
Nine Ball Enhanced Magazine Lip Seal for Tokyo Marui

#2)Propane/GG Slide

Aluminium Slide + Outter Barrel

I was looking for the PGC PGC Aluminium Slide & Outer Barrel Set for Marui G17
Recoil spring &Guide
Guarder MARUI Glock 17 Enhanced Recoil Spring Guide + 150% Enhanced Hammer Spring Included.

Hammer Set

Guns Modify Zero Hammer Full Set w/ 150% Hammer Spring for Tokyo Marui

Blow Back Housing

original TM or
the Guns Modify CNC G17 Blow Back Housing Set

Nozzle

Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Loading Nozzle for Marui Glock 17 / 26

Nozzle Valve Set

Original TM or Guarder Reinforced Nozzle Valve Set for Marui G17 / G26 ?

Hop-up

Tokyo Marui Glock 17 Original Parts or T.S.C. CNC Aluminum Hop-Up Chamber for Marui G17/G18C

Inner Barrel

Tanio Koba Hop Twist Barrel for Marui Glock 17/P226

Hop-up Rubber

PDI W HOLD CHAMBER PACKING for Tokyo Marui VSR and Marui Pistol

Sight
Guarder Steel Night Sight for Marui G17




My questions are:

Slide Aluminium
Is the PGC PGC Aluminium Slide & Outer Barrel still the safest choice in drop-in and fit ?

Blow Back Housing
Should I go with the original TM BBU or the Guns Modify CNC G17 Blow Back Housing Set for Tokyo Marui G17
would be a better choice (Considering my felt recoil goal)

Is there parts I am better keeping Original TM^

If one of the glock wizards have advise, comments or anything else let me know. ;-)
Thanks in advance

Silver_Back

For the price, yes.
You can either buy that or a SHooter's Design slide. They are about the same price range and they both have similar fitting. Although, the Shooter's Design slides have a looser tolerance than the PGC ones.

If your budget is a bit higher, you can get something like the Bowie Tactical Custom slides. TO date, it's one of the best fitting slides I had ever worked with. ...consistantly, I might add.

If you want felt recoil, the Guns Modify lightweight blowback housing won't help you. It will make it so that you feel LESS recoil.

If you want more felt recoil, you need to make the weight of slide heavier. Not lighter. And with minimal resistance from the recoil spring.

All of it.
THe only thing that i would recommend you changing out the hammer spring. THe rest is "if it's not broke, don't fix it" type deal.

This thread is really out of date.

I should really update it. lol.

Nice to see my fix is gaining traction. I have about a thousand rounds since I last posted, with the majority of them fired using MAPP gas instead of Green Gas. The pin is still solidly in place, and there is no cracking/deformation of the frame. The thing is really showing its wear though... throwing it across the floor of the Mach 1 Arena by accident didn't do it any favours.

On the upgrade/stock list: Nine Ball Hop Bucking, TK Twist Barrel, and Hammer Spring. Else just upgrade it when it breaks. Oh, and the sights. The TM sights suck. SUCK.

Thanks for the quick answer E-Luder and MaybeStopCalling

@E-Luder
''the Shooter's Design slides have a looser tolerance than the PGC ones.''

I am not sure to really understand whats better. Looser tolerance?
Are you saying the PGC have a similar but a better/tighter fit?

''THe only thing that i would recommend you changing out the hammer spring. THe rest is "if it's not broke, don't fix it" type deal.''

I am making myself a second slide kit. That why I am buy so much parts.
1) Gaz Dunter Slide
(Original/Not broken parts) slide + external\internal Barrel, Hopup set, Nozzle set, Blow back assembly set

2) Propane or GG
(Stronger & better parts) Alu slide + external\internal Barrel, Nozzle, 150% recool spring
(Everythings other little parts requires to make it a 2 sec swap) Hopup parts,, Blow back assembly parts.

But I guest keeping most Original TM i can should make my life easier and my slide heavier
KISS like they say. Keep It Simple Stupid
;-)

The question is, willI I be able to find every little ttiny parts :-\



@MaybeStopCalling
''On the upgrade/stock list: Nine Ball Hop Bucking, TK Twist Barrel, and Hammer Spring. Else just upgrade it when it breaks. Oh, and the sights. The TM sights suck. SUCK.''

I want to different slide kit I can swap whenever I Use duster or Propane. That why I ''change'' so many things.
But to keep my life simple and my slide heavier Ill buy mostly original parts.




Thanks for the late night answer, I was not expecting to be answer that quickly.
;-)

Silver_Back

What recoil spring do you use it with? APS mags throw back my slide so strong it would jam and needs to be pushed back by hand.

Jam in what way?
You need to very careful about how your gun is handling all that recoil energy.

This tells me that all the recoil kinetic energy is dispersed right when the slide changes it's direction. THis could spell disaster from your front screw casing (if yo havent modded your gun).

Hi !

I had built a first glock with TM G17 basis + guarder complete kit, palsonite barrel and nine ball hopup rubber. This one was working perfectly, and the fitting of each element had been easy and perfect from the beginning. Since it has been stolen, I made a new one with the same basis: TM + complete guarder kit + guarder light weight nozzle housing and shooters design hammer spring. And I am waiting for a tanio koba barrel and a high flow valve in the next coming days.

I have the impression that Guarder items are really unequal in terms of quality and fitting…
With this new one I meet some issues:
- The steel trigger lever was not acting on the hammer, impossible to shoot, whatever position or bending I tried with it. And I broke it when I tried to bend it (stupidly) on the place where the trigger makes an angle, probably more fragile. The original trigger lever works, but I don’t know how long it will last. I will wait for it to break before switching again to a steel one… I didn’t have this issue with the previous one.
- The slide sometimes doesn’t push enough on the hammer to hook it in shooting position (nice moment when you want to take off the slide, that becomes impossible). It seems that the hook needs just a little bit more of vertical pressure to engage and block the hammer, since it doesn’t happen if I take care to apply a bit of strength down on the slide when I pull it. For the moment, it seems to cycle correctly when I shoot with gaz, and I meet this issue only with manual action. Should I file a little bit the hook to let it engage easier on the hammer, or should this issue disappear during the “lapping” of the pieces with the use? Or would it be better to install a thin metal plate between the BBU housing and the slide, to get a better pressure on the hammer wheel?
- When I engage the magazine, it loses gas. As soon as I pull the slide and let it take back its position, it gets back to normal and seems to be correctly sealed again. Any idea on the cause and action to solve it? Engaging it without the slide on the block, it seems that the hammer is moving to the top to follow the valve insertion.

I add that after shooting without magazine to disarm the glock, the trigger stays on the back with a very short course, and I can't remember if it was the case on my previous model.
Thank you in advance for your help!

Edit: I turn back on what I said! It doesn't work well at all: when I want to shoot, it works in full auto mode and shoots all the pellets with only one pressure on the trigger. Shitty stuff... :-( Help will be highly appreciated! It really seems that the hammer would need to be pushed just a bit more to hang correctly at each movement of the slide, or the hammer bearing should be just a bit larger (half a millimeter, not even) to be caught correctly by the slide...

To continue on the subject:
- hammer cocking solved: I just polished a bit the hooks (only took off the paint, it's so difficult to have any action on such a small piece), it works and seems to catch each time. Incredible how it can be sensible to minor thicknesses. I'll check during fire cycles how it goes (I just glued the dummy ejector and cannot use it until it dries).

- loss of gaz: it is the hammer that pushes vertically on the valve when I engage the magazine without pulling the slide. If I release the catch magazine and let it go down just a bit (not even a millimeter), it stops leaking.
I feel that filling just a bit the magazine where the lever catches it or filling the lever will be the best solution... Would it go back to normal by only using it?

Have a nice day!

http://i.imgur.com/jLV6Ic0b.jpg

Can anyone identify what this piece is? Fell out from the back of my Glock , but cant identify where it came from even with reference to the TM G17 blow-up diagramme.

It's got a big and a small hole underneath

Looks like part G17-9 from the diagram, gets inserted in the blowback unit (G17-8).

The trigger lever is not something that you should be worried about. The stock trigger bar works fine. It's possible that the steel trigger was bent at the tab where it interacts with the sear nub. WHen this happens, the lever just "slips" and not "engage" the sear. Thus, no action.


This is a combination of a lot of things.

But all boils down to loose fitment with the slide. THere are tabs on the Hammer housing that keep the slide tight fitting. If those tabs are worn, it will cause the action you are describing.

Also refrain from filing anything down on your BBU. If you're hammer is not locking then that may mean that the blowback unit does not have enough packing to push it down. If you get to that scenario, you'll need to CAREFULLY modify your sear hooks so that it can engage the hammer hooks correctly.

I'm not quite sure what you mean here...

But if you lose gas when you insert the mag, that usually means that your firing pin is too long such that when you insert the mag, it is already pressing down on the valve.

You can round off the bottom part of the firing pin so it can slip into place or file the whole strikeface altogether but be very careful about how much you take off. If you take too much off, you'll lose a bit of gas output since the firing pin will be too short to press the valve.

This is a Hammer to Blowback Unit issue.
Either your slide is too loose or the bump on your BBU is completely gone.

You can try using a bigger bearing (hammer wheel) such as the 9mm Action hammer bearing to try and fix this. But I doubt it will help any. Your best bet would be to just buy a new BBU altogether.

You need to file the firing pin.

In my honest opinion, Yes.

depends which part you are looking for.

Is there anyway to INCREASE the tension of the trigger pull? Im not a race gun person, and I find that the light pull of the tm glock to be a small quirk. Its not a huge deal, but if anyone knows how to make the tension higher (not the length of the trigger pull) please let me know.

You could get a heavier spring for the uptake, but the break will be extremely hard to modify due to the design of the gun.

Im not 100% on what the uptake or brake is. Id assume id just need to get a heavier spring that connects from the body to the trigger arm... just unsure where to get one...or if there is a place to get one made.

The idea is that the weight of the trigger should increase as you get closer to the break point, which is where it feels like the trigger hits a wall. If you pull past this wall, the gun goes off. Now, the uptake from resting to break is controlled by that spring. But the break itself, and the force to break that wall to get the gun to fire (in addition to the spring), is dependent on the design of the trigger group and by extension the hammer spring.

When a gun's trigger weight is measured, it's not the uptake they're talking about- it's the break. An actual Glock will break that trigger around 5.5-6.5 pounds; that's what they're talking about.

Now you could throw in a bigger spring, and you've made your overall pull heavier, but without a way to make the break stronger, you're going to lose the ability to feel for that break point- not a good thing.

TL:DR - A heavier spring will make it harder to pull, but reduce the quality of your trigger and thus the accuracy of the gun.

A) Confirm with another TM Glock that pull in normal and there is not an issue with the build.

B) Keep your finger off the trigger till it's time to pull it.

Alright thanks Maybe.

@Danke there is no issue with the build nor my finger safety, just wanting to make my trigger closer to a legit glock.