I wouldn't be surprised to see the angel mot sealing as well as the stock Marui one.

If it does what it's supposed to, it should seal better than the stock Marui one.

The holes on the body(?) of that contraption allows air to flow BENEATH the rubber o-ring (but thot through the body. That would be useless).

When this happens the o-ring will expand and create that so called "perfect" seal. The downfall of this set-up is that if that o-ring is not a very strong one, it will snap and break off.

Alot of the NineBall DYNA piston heads have this issue....

Also, I didn't know that hi-capa/M9 and Glock piston heads were cross-compatible.
I thought they had different sizes. The only cross compatible ones I knew of were the hi-capa/P226 ones.
Interesting...

thank you sir, and i you. seems as if we have both enjoyed the Marui G-series a little too much. that does not make us bad!! :P ;)

One last thing i would like to discuss: Graphite lubrication, well, lubrication in general.

there are 3 basic and useful ways to lubricate, some of which i carry over from working on watches. (horology is the trade, to the layman it is "watchmaker") i digress.....

so, lubrication #1: wet. as in, liquid, as in, silicone, 3 in 1 oil, superlube, and a million others i don't feel like typing.

this is the most common, and often highly misused. it is however a simple concept: apply, let sit, wipe clean so nothing comes out during use.

if done right, this can increase life and decrease wear of just about anything from RC Cars to watches, to real steel etc.

Lubrication #2: DRY. as mentioned above, a fine graphite powder is often used to lubricate metals. it is fantastic, yet often misunderstood. this powder was designed (and is still marketed as a key hole lubricant (read: lock cylinder on your car door, home door, etc) and is meant to stay dry after application. its very nature is to have a static electric bond to moving and non moving metal parts of all grades, and therefore should remain in place once the excess has "fallen" off. after working in the industry for 2.5 yrs, this lubrication (the graphite, in case i'm losing anyone by being wordy) has really become popular and is very efficient. i must say that mixing it with an application agent (read: binder) and applying is counter intuitive however. this will cause it to become a paste as mentioned, and that is not its intended use. a polishing rouge would be better suited in this instance IMHO.

Lubrication #3 wax-based: this is perhaps one of my favorites. its quite ingenious actually. originally designed for racing bicycle chains, this is a liquid that is applied, laid to rest, then cleaned off. the liquid leaves the surface (with COLD WATER and MILD hand soap) and what is left is a microscopic layer of WAX. yup, plain old WAX. (commonly used on, say, a Rolex metal bracelet to ensure smooth, squeak free movement of the links. i have used this for a million things, and i find it works wonders on polished, brushed, and bare metal to metal surfaces.) it also lasts a long time, and leaves no byproduct to release during use. they label it as "self cleaning" as well, although i don't see this in execution.

Pictured below are just a few of the ingredients i use, i hope this is helpful to someone.....

http://www.evanscycles.com/product_i...lube-240ml.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2.../photo1-21.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2.../photo2-20.jpg

Ok, I'll begin my polishing process...but I can't understand is polishing the inner of the Outer barrel my be useful.

I want to polish every worn by contact parts; slide grooves, chassis, trigger bar. Is the Dremel red compund good for this?
As soon I'll buy the graphite lubricant for the hammer parts.

im sorry if i was unclear:

in the pic with the outer barrel in the drill; look closely, if you pulled the trigger the whole unit would spin, so you can polish the OUTSIDE of the barrel.

the inside of the barrel is held by the dremmel sanding drum (think of it as a plug per se.)

this was simply an example of using things around the house to get a job done quickly. (a makeshift lathe sotra :P )

if that still does not make sense, i will make a video.


I do have a Q for E-Luder:

Have you found a way to make the inner barrel NOT rattle against the outer barrel on these? In KSC/KWA world you can use O-Rings and it's a nice feature. i have yet to rid my current G26 of this last rattle, and it drives me nuts.

thank you in advance for your thoughts.

-Michael

The easiest way to eliminate the barrel roll is just simply wrap your inner barrel in some electrical tape. That's been the staple for years. lol.

It's hard for me to find o-rings that fit properly.

...and electrical is much more "modifiable" than an o-ring. That is, you can add or take away as much as you need. Whereas an o-ring doesn't share the same modularity.

...and and....It's cheap!!! (In every sense of the word.)

That's what I normally do.

edited and posted a few posts down..........

It makes uss.....

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...9sd4L2uxi7L8MA

Just to be clear...
"polishing" and "filing/sanding" have different conotations.

Although they undergo the same process essentially, they effects that you are trying to achieve is different.

Polishing simply means (to me) smoothening out parts.
Sanding/filing means REMOVING material to fit things into place.

I was confused by what you were trying to achieve based on your wordings on the previous post but now I know.

You don't really need to polish the inner side of the barrel. Mainly because you have an inner barrel for the barrel to ride along.

I don't even think there are many people (if any at all) would polish their real steel barrel anyways. It will screw up the rifling inside.

To me you shouldn't be using a dremmel at all.
Other than using it for how MikeNair said to use it, it will not do you any favors.

Good Old needle files and your own sweat and arthritis provoking hard work will get you a more precise result.

A dremmel is ruthless on pot-metal. Plus it's very hard to control...

.

I misinterpreted your pic, sorry

Im sorry if i was unclear:

in the pic with the outer barrel in the drill; look closely, if you pulled the trigger the whole unit would spin, so you can polish the OUTSIDE of the barrel.

the inside of the barrel is held by the dremmel sanding drum (think of it as a plug per se.)

this was simply an example of using things around the house to get a job done quickly. (a makeshift lathe sotra :P )

if that still does not make sense, i will make a video.


I do have a Q for E-Luder:

Have you found a way to make the inner barrel NOT rattle against the outer barrel on these? In KSC/KWA world you can use O-Rings and it's a nice feature. i have yet to rid my current G26 of this last rattle, and it drives me nuts.

thank you in advance for your thoughts.

-Michael[/quote]

MikeMcNair,

may you suggest a solution for other issues I have with my KJW G27?

I have 2 Kjw mags and 1 Marui mag.
With KJW the pistol works well but the first shots cause gas vent from the back of the pistol. I tried to upgrade the rubber nozzles of the mag with the "purple" ones (I don't remember the brand) but is the first times all worked well but after a while the issue come back.

Using the Marui mag I have striking failure if I insert the mag with the slide closed, but if I insert it with the slide opened all works perfeclty, no vent and mopre power than with kjw mags.

I think something prevents the magazine to fit higher

My set up is this

KJW G27 OD green
Guarder recoil and hammer springs
Guarder steel recoil rod
Guarder steel magazine catch
Guarder front and rear sights
Safety trigger (Kjw dosn't have it due to copyright issues)
Guarder and Shooter design Valve knockers, but I can't get work none of them

can you post an image of the magazines lined up next to each other showing their "catch" points?

also, can you post an image of the mag catch removed from the frame please.

i feel this is where your issue lies. E-Luder posted a "coke can" shim method in this thread somewhere (just search the thread).

i personally have used each and every mag seal i could find, and frankly i HATED every one!!! the ONLY ones that have been consistent for me are the STOCK TM/KJW ones. i am unsure why.

it sounds crazy, but they have been perfect for me, and NO OTHERS have worked more than a short time.

please keep in mind, i have built all of my non KSC/KWA glocks from a combination of parts from TM and KJW, so i am very confident in their "interchangeability" with close regard to magazines, slides, BBH, trigger mech, etc.

the fact that the gun shows issues when a mag is inserted with slide in battery, and no issue when slide is locked back, would also lead me to request pictures of the inside of the assembled slide. instinct says the nozzle is too far forward in battery, and perhaps the BBH is causing that. it is really hard to diagnose things without holding them in hand as i am sure you can imagine.

how is the BBH seated in the slide? is it stable, solid, flat?

does the BBH rattle around at ALL, or is the rear site holding it well?

also, here is what i am looking for. in the following pics you will see 2 mag catch's, one is newer, one shows more wear. these were taken out of a KJW and a TM frame (i have both sitting RIGHT HERE). this is what i am looking for from you please.

please note: the KJW mag is currently in my TM frame, and the mag baseplate from the KJ is on the TM as well. in other words, i have everything mixed up on purpose. :)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2.../photo1-23.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2.../photo2-22.jpg

@kar120c with regard to your gun not firing when the magazine is inserted before the slide is cycled, leads me to think that it is possible that your new firing pin (knocker) is 'over sized'

I usually have this problem on my 1911's (just getting into a glock now)... but with new 'upgraded'/steel knockers they are frequently too large so they can be custom fit.

The knocker - due to over sizing - may be getting caught on the magazine valve. That is why when you insert the magazine, the valve pushes up on the knocker and even when you cycle the slide there is too much upward pressure on the knocker to have it retract. Also could explain why it DOES shoot when you cycle the slide first (retracting the knocker) and then inserting the magazine since it will sit behind the knocker and not get caught on top as you insert the mag.

The problem may also persist on TM mags and not KJW mags just due to their size difference... it could be as little as a few millimetres (clones arn't always perfect)

Apilar,

excellent point indeed! i must admit though, i have not run into a single issue with a single valve knocker one of these yet. i am in no way discounting the idea, simply sharing my experience.

E-Luder & everyone:

i posted this above, but fear it was missed, so i'm posting lower, down here lol...


E-Luder:

thank you! i was clearly over-thinking the innerbarrel/outerbarrel rattle. leave it to me....

now that i am thinking of questions you may be able to help with, i have a few more for you if you don't mind.

1) are you able to VISIBLY IDENTIFY the difference between a stock and (let's just say) a GUARDER recoil or hammer spring? i ask because i have about 6 or so springs that i am unsure of the manufacturer of. some examples are below.

perhaps there is a test to see the tension? perhaps color or length (although almost all identical, i can see some SLIGHT variation, it could also be my aging eyes...)

2) have you ever found doubling up a recoil spring to be beneficial? this is simply out of curiosity.

3) have you ever fitted an aluminum BBH and consequent Piston Head from a G17 into the smaller G26 counterpart? this is something i have always pondered.

i appreciate this thread, and your efforts tremendously!

-Michael

2 photos with slightly different lighting to see if there is a discernible difference in these springs........

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...009/photo2.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...009/photo1.jpg

Michael,

I can answer some of your questions:

1) are you able to VISIBLY IDENTIFY the difference between a stock and (let's just say) a GUARDER recoil or hammer spring? i ask because i have about 6 or so springs that i am unsure of the manufacturer of. some examples are below.

perhaps there is a test to see the tension? perhaps color or length (although almost all identical, i can see some SLIGHT variation, it could also be my aging eyes...)


From my experience, Guarder has two kinds of hammer springs: One which is sold by itself, the other which is sold with the recoil rod/spring as shown here:

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...itled222-1.jpg

and here:

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1..._t/guarder.jpg

Based on your pictures, this is my guess:

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...SPRINGS222.jpg

I can tell you that they are not Shooter's Design hammer springs though.

I had the best results with Shooter's Design hammer springs, since the tension on the springs don't weaken over time. Guarder also has really strong hammer springs given by the angle of the two prongs, but whether the tension will be maintained in the future is uncertain.

2) have you ever found doubling up a recoil spring to be beneficial? this is simply out of curiosity.

Yes, you can do this to increase the ROF by using a second stage spring in series with your primary recoil spring. Or you can use a full length recoil spring with a 1/2 to 1/3 of another spring. However, you will need the plastic "C" clip to fit between the springs. The more springs you put, the more you short stroke the gun will be. However, if you put too much, your slide will not lock when the magazine is empty, and you may have issues chamber the next round. You can use one of the aftermarket upgrade guide rods (Shooters Design, Guarder) and use two springs fitted between the "C" clip. You can also add buffers, or if you really want to go extreme, a lot of japanese racegun users insert a tube over a portion of the recoil spring to increase cycling speed. Here is a picture of the two stage recoil system for glocks. As you can see in the picture below, the spring is short, but very stiff which helps to recoil the slide back to battery. You can put your stock spring inside the rod to go along with this second stage spring.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pt_gsgrb_m.jpg

Just ordered this for my Tm G18C: http://tokyomodelcompany.kancart.com.../10061#!detail

It is the new model, the valve is not metal made anymore... wonder if it has to do with the high cycling of the full auto and the metal valve that could damage the nozzle. Anyway the older full Metal version is sold out everywhere.

Question for you guys. I heavily modified my G18C recently (went for PGC slide, guns modify aluminum bbu, zero hammer and AIP hammer set... I went for Ipsc shooting, the other day (the first time after assembling everything) and everything was working fine. Now last weekend all of a sudden even with the selector on semi it was shooting on full auto sometimes. I was pissed. Now I came back home and tried in putting back some of the original hammer assembly parts combined with the AIP ones (the reason I upgraded originally was because of a worn full auto sear) So I finally found that with all the AIP parts save for the guns modify zero hammer (I put back the original hammer instead) , the gun was shooting perfectly fine again and only in semi while on semi. That being said can someone explains me why the zero hammer is causing that?

It's probably not interfacing with the BBU properly.
My guess is that the BBU is pushed a little to high and considering the zero hammer has MINIMAL contact with the BBU, it won't to lock the semi-sear...

I dunno. I have to see.

...

Here's what you do...

1). Take out ALL of these upgrades you've installed
2). Re-install your stock components
3). Re-install your upgrade components 1 at a time.


Do this until you find the incompatible part. Then modify said part accordingly.

You Marui magazine is acting wonky because the system you're trying to use it on is not its primary/intended use.

Yea. Your magazine. lol.

My Guess is that the notch on the magazine that the mag catch "catches" sits higher than your KJW mags.

...and again, i think I've also stated this before, you have to allow clearance for the firing pin relative to the magazine blowoff valve. That's why you're getting a "strike failure". THe firing pin MUST have some room to gain velocity for the strike.

Apilar already provided the solution. You must shave a few millimeters off of the firing pin to allow for the clearance.

Hi Mike,

1) are you able to VISIBLY IDENTIFY the difference between a stock and (let's just say) a GUARDER recoil or hammer spring? i ask because i have about 6 or so springs that i am unsure of the manufacturer of. some examples are below.

perhaps there is a test to see the tension? perhaps color or length (although almost all identical, i can see some SLIGHT variation, it could also be my aging eyes...)

Recoil Springs- the only way that I am able to identify which one is stock and which is aftermarket are:

Color- the color of the stock recoil spring is usually like a... worn greyish tone.
some aftermarket manufacturers have stainless steel ones or ones coated with like black electrolyte paint to keep the tension in the spring.

Length- the stock one is usually shorter than most other springs. Guarder's for example is longer and has more coils...

Tension( or flimsiness)- the stock recoil spring can bend much easier than the latter spring.

Diameter- some aftermarket springs hug the recoil rod tighter while the stock ones usually are more loose around it.

Hammer springs- Man....I hate playing this game. 90% of the time I lose. Everytime LOL.

For the hammer springs, I usually just look for color. Usually the stock hammer spring will be black.

Other springs like Guarder springs, have like a... "worn paint" look to them.

The Guarder one that they sell separately from the recoil spring kit is advertised as "tempered steel". I'm sure you know how that looks like. :)

Shooter's Design springs, in contrast for example, have a dull stainless steel finish to them.

2) have you ever found doubling up a recoil spring to be beneficial? this is simply out of curiosity.

I remember when they first came out with these "Dual Recoil Springs" (DRS) back in '94 (I think), they were trying to pass it up to consumers that by having a DRS system, it reduced recoil. Many were skeptic because of the Glock 26's were able to chamber different rounds... which meant that energy outputs would be different with different types of ammunition....which meant that the recoil spring would have had to adjust to make this claim true.

Well...maybe not I guess. From a marketing perspective, if even it reduced recoil by like a fraction of what it was, then I guess you can call it true. lol. Those smart bastards. But I digress.

But many owners claimed that it hardly made any difference at all and that there were no real evidence (mathematical or practical) to support their claim.

Then they came out of a bunch of other reasons why they used the system. One was because of the length of guide rod and using a single spring set up, the spring won't have room to coil.

This lead people to believe that the recoil wasn't actually reduced (or increased) as a single spring set up would have to absorb the same amount of recoil energy as a DRS since the weight, projectile and distance of the slide's travel remained constant (or the same).

The only difference would have been is that at some point during the rear stroke, the DSR spring system would have had to gather enough resistance between the two springs to physically stop the slide and return it back to battery.

Then the Gen 4s came out and totally changed how the DRS system works. LOL.

Anyways, in airsoft terms, a "bounce back" spring is beneficiary for shortening the stroke of the slide....for whatever reason.

Shortening the stroke leads to faster chambering of BB, faster trigger reset and thus faster follow-up shots.

For a Marui Glock in particular, it's almost like installing shock buffers. For me, I use the DRS system to protect the front bolt screw from breaking....well...most of the time anyways.

It acts as a brace for when the slide comes to a stop on the rear stroke.

THe other benefit is actually to prevent the recoil springs from "over coiling" or "spinning" (I don't know how to describe it) and unscrewing the top of aftermarket guide rods. That's why some full length rods that don't use the DRS system come with those bearings at the end. lol. I don't know how it does it. But it does.

One other thing is reduced rear slide impact (I hesitate to use "recoil power") which translates to reduced FELT-recoil power at the wrists. In airsoft this really doesn't matter since...well...let's be honest here...they're toys and recoil is next to nothing compared to real guns.

The only airsoft guys that really care (based on my observations) about having this reduced felt recoil are the competitors that need fast target acquisition and
re-acquisition.

3) have you ever fitted an aluminum BBH and consequent Piston Head from a G17 into the smaller G26 counterpart? this is something i have always pondered.

Yes, A Glock 17 piston head should fit the G26.
Remember, the G26 was the father of the Marui Glocks. The Glock 17 was based on this design.

It like how the KSC Glocks were the very first iteration of the System 7...uhh...system(?). lol.

I think the only discernable difference in their piston head designs were that a G26 used the "piston cup" rather then the more modern piston head with the o-ring seal.

I have observed that the Stark/VFC G17 comes with one, and there is other made by "Thunder Airsoft" : http://www.shootercbgear.com/product...oducts_id=7327

Does the use of dual recoil spring mitigate or solve the problem of broken frame front posts?

I have been looking too. I gave up, let me no how that plastic valve works for you I just may order one too.

No but it helps pro-long breakage.

Sure... on DEN Trinity it is labeled as "Firefly floating valve new gen" so it SHOULD be as good as the original metal one. The plastic looks like derlin, a highly resistent/durable kind of plastic.

i am sorry i did not mention that i have a DRS from the factory (all my questions are almost ALWAYS based solely on a G26/G27 as i like subcompacts (see my sig), and of course have upgraded it to a Guarder Stainless/Brass guide rod assembly, and have a polished factory unit as well. i just took this pic to illustrate (i'm terribly visual as a whole, so sorry for all the pics.)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...10/photo-4.jpg

my question was based on an idea of slide return: i don't so much care about the strength of the front screw post on the frame, nor am i using anything for competition of any sort. i simply plink, and build these for my son. he loves them, and i love tinkering: win win if you ask me!

back to the reason for my question: i LOVE a HARD HITTING slide as it returns to battery. Having owned many a RS (G26, G27, PPS 9mm, PT111 Mil Pro 3rd gen, XD sub compact 9, Hi Point C9, SR9c, etc) one of my all time favorite features of a side arm is the positive, heavy THUD of a slide returning into battery after loading, releasing the slide lock, etc.

now, that does certainly add an amount of vanity to my firearm experience, but the real reason is the forward motion of a slide can actually cause a person to drop a pistol easily, as the natural purchase on said pistol is less monitored by (let's just say, a 10 yr old child learning proper firearm control and safety) the user as recoil is absorbed by a stronger hold on the grip. (i hope this makes sense)

with all that being said, i would like this pistol to INCREASE the forward "COIL" (if RE- Coil is backward movement, i'll use COIL as forward... makes sense to me lol) thus my asking.

wonderful. i have the piston head with O-Ring installed you speak of, of course i still have the stock, and guarder versions of the "cup" as well. (these seam to have WAY too narrow a diameter to properly seal the Airsoft Surgeon loading nozzle/BBU. so i never use the stock cup.)

what intrigues me is the length of the head on the G17 aluminum piston position. see the RED section here....

http://img.redwolfairsoft.com/upload.../GM0045-2L.jpg

now, this to me fills the rear of the BBH better than what the G26 uses, in turn leaving less OPEN space, and therefore no room for air to go aside from FORWARD to the BB, as well as pushing the BBH (and therefore slide) back with more force. in theory, this could increase not only FPS, but also felt recoil and coil as mentioned above. another win win if my theory is correct.

oh, one more thing that JUST HAPPENED....

i was lucky enough to get my slide stuck on the frame. yeah, it appears the hammer/sear are in the upright position, making the slide stuck on. this just occurred as i was taking the photo above.

so now i have to figure out what really made this happen, get it apart, and fix the issue. all this for a darn pic. FML.

Here'e the pics.
The marui mag is that on the right and I must say that wear signs are so obvious also because I just tried the coke can method (with no succes)

The bb unit is very solid but the plastic nozzle is a little loose moving on right and left but I have inspected inside the frame with slide closed and it doesn't move. I have an Airsoft Surgeon nozzle but I can't use it because the inside sping is mounted differently forn the KJW and I need a little plastic cage which I think is in the Marui nozzle

http://s1.postimg.org/cunlojsjj/20140211_171323.jpg
caricare immagini

quick question KAR120c:

are you referring to part # 9 in this photo? (the "cage")

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...s/00bc45ed.jpg

if so, i have to tell you that i have purchased new 6 or 7 TM and KJW G26's and NEVER have i had one come with part#9, instead it is a small pin that goes in the nozzle. (it is apparently supposed to be the "cage" and a screw holding it, although i have yet to see one in real life. sounds odd, but it's true.

anyway, your magazines have inconsistent wear on them, which i find odd. i will look closer at the pictures shortly.

I wonder why they changed the valve. I will order one too, maybe its annarea thats not high stress

Yes I think it is part 9, I too have the pin to keep nozzle spring in place. The inconsistent wear is due to my attempts to solve the issue using thin pieces of coke can glued to the mag catch

Guys know where you can get the guarder full tune up kit in stock? I saw the kit for the g17 is it compatible with the g18c? Thanks guys for all your help

WGC shows in stock..... http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...rom=searchItem

and intruder (i think they always do) http://www.intrudershop.com/show_pro...oduct=1170#top

This can fit the glock 18c right?

The slides are for G17, not G18C as the G18C has a hole for the fire selector. You can however, use the other parts that come with the kit. I would just buy each individual part separately, especially the internals such as hammer, full auto sear, valve knocker, outer barrel, BBU, air nozzle.

How often do you guys find yourselves flipping the switch to full auto?

That really depends on how much full auto you use. For shits and giggles, i like to do a full auto burst with an extended mag. If I was gaming, i would only do semi only.

Detonator makes a G18C slide where the fire selector is not on the side of the slide but beneath the slide itself. You need to rack the slide to expose the bottom of the slide to adjust the full auto/semi switch. Slide looks like this:

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/media/cat...004_1_mark.jpg

That's what the G18 setup on the new Guns Modify slides is like too.

Tried a couple WiiTech magazine valves today. Dropped in without hassle and seems to drive things reall well. Trying the steel slide later on.

How do you know of ylu have the matest version of the marui g18c? I just got my in a shop here oddily.

I wonder if the WE glock CO2 magazines work for Marui glocks. Hmmmmmm ;)

The C02 mags are supposed to be metered to the same punch as a stock one.

Ran the steel slide, would cycle far enough to reset but not to pick up a BB.

Ran the Detonator alloy slide and it rolled fine along with the Guns Modify one.

Air temp 2c, shop temp 8c, mag freshly filled, no chance to warmup. Should work fine in a normal game.

quick question
Has anyone successfully bought a guarder glock frame from an non-Canadian site? Or does anyone know if they are prohibited?

Thanks

Yeah, thats why im not a big fan of guarder steel slides, its so sluggish and can't even clean out another magazine. It might seem "cool" to have a steel slide just like a real glock, but practically, not so efficient for airsoft. Stick with aluminum alloy if you want the best performance.




They are prohibited to be imported as it is classified as the frame/receiver of the gun. Not only that, but since the glock is the most commonly used by canadian enforcement, CBSA can spot it right away if you try to import it, and it will be confiscated.

Unless....
I get them in :D

Well, I dunno about the WE CO2 mags but the new APS Action Combat Pistol (A.C.P.) mags work with a Marui Glock. With slight modification of course.

THe new version have a metal insert on the slide where recoil rod exits the slide.
(I dunno what else to call it).

It was put in place because the plastic slides, in the beginning, were cracking sooo fast that my wife's long ass morning showers would be over before the slide self destructed....

HEEEYYYOOOOO!

Airsoft Global was the only few places that carried them regularly.
Check them?

...and no, they are not compatible as Turok_T pointed out.

Dont let them about our secret stash!

https://i.imgur.com/G3aukqQ.jpg

BTW, I need to ask you soemthing, check your phone..

It's the long one though; it makes me feel like a Bond villain.

Actually I beg to differ on that at least with the OD or TAN lower. I have ordered 2 on different occasions. The first time I did as a test and the border agency opened it and they looked at it and tapped back the enveloppe and they shipped it to me. It is written on the guarder package that it's a toy and all... There was no way that I would be getting riped off 90$ for a guarder frame, that's 3 times the HK price. In my last shipment from ehobby they did not even open the box.

I cant believe how people can accept to be ripped off so easily....samething regarding guns I saw a package from wgc airsoft in HK brought in by a retailer. On the package it had a chart mentionning fps that were all above the fps
Limit of 366 fps with a stock Marui GBB...my ass...its completely false and the border does not check the fps...

Wow! You got the frames through, i guess it depends on which CBSA agent you receive and which port of entry into Canada. For users in Ontario, our items usually land at mississauga or vancouver customs. Mind you though, you can also put a real glock frame into a bag and label it as a toy so just because the bag is labelled "toy" doesn't really indicate anything, and there is no proof or evidence that the glock frame is to be used on a glock that shoots >366fps. But, I guess you are very lucky. However, I wouldn't bank on these two instances as something that is regular or permittable.

Any comments about importing your own glock frames Eluder? I can see you are itching to contribute your 2 cents :)

I am sure you can bring OD ones or TAN one no prob the front post screw and all it is obvious on top of the guarder original packaging that it is a toy and that it cant be used on a real Glock...but hey if you prefer getting ripped off 90$ a piece...it's up to you. It was no luck btw..they opened the letter looked at the frame but it back in and tapped it back with their own tape withbthe border agency logo on it

We don't pay $90 here for a frame......

...

Regarding the 366 fps, I was talking about importing a brand new TM 1911 MEU...not onlybthe frame...and for someone defense how can you allow canadian online retailer store to sell genuine TM and on the other side do not allow to order them from abroad...does not make sense. You just ask the HK to put a false higher than 366 fps shooting report and you are good to go for importation...

Illusion and some other guys and Milsig sells them 90$ a piece ;-)

Well....

Pistol frames in general are prohibited items.
I personally don't risk it. Mainly because I don't want to waste my money if they seize it.

Plus, I cross the border too often to have the CBSA search through my shit everytime I'm at the airport.

Ain't nobody got time for that.

Btw all my package land in Mississauga or Vancouver too. Might want to start to order your own Glock frame too ! :-)

That is EXACTLY what they do now. HK retailers put a false label indicating that it shoots >366fps for airsoft guns, which is why CBSA does NOT follow those labels as guides to allow importation. Instead, they search for the manufacture's website for the FPS online. What if they can't find it? Well, they pass it to RCMP for chronograph testing and the gun can be held from 1 week to several months.

In terms of frames, receivers, etc, those are harder to import because there is no evidence that these frames/receivers can shoot >366 fps because there is no internals! You have no proof that these receivers/frames are for guns that shoot >366fps. However, if these frames/receivers are sold with the entire gun, and there is manufacture indication that it shoots >366fps, then it can be imported easier (note I say "easier" because depending on the CBSA agent, your gun can still be kept for further testing even if it is >366fps). Ive asked a dozen of retailer (including my manager) to import only frames/receivers but they still refuse given that the risk for seizure is too high.

Canadian retailers can sell genuine TM pistols that shoot >366fps because they have a special license, or props/business license that allow them to import them to Canada. These pistols are prohibited for importation by end users like us. Other retailers increase the FPS of pistols to shoot >366fps either through an extended inner barrel covered with a mock silencer or use CO2 magazines. THIS is how they get pistols imported into Canada.

If you want to risk being blacklisted, then, by all means, continue to order frames, but I would strongly heed this information before proceeding. In fact, I would be very careful about what you say/post before the admins get here and read this and unleash their wrath. The last thing I want is for this thread to be locked up!

+1

Thanks eluder.

If you are blacklisted, you are screwed, all your packages will be scrutinized and checked. Its not a risk or hassle I want to take and I don't want to waste money.

Tread lightly, my friend...
Tread lightly.

You don't want the ASC Gods knocking at your doorstep...

They have licenses. We don't.

Does anyone in Toronto/GTA have a guarder TM glock black frame for sale...Turok? please pm me

I would buy from Milsig but I prefer not to wait for shipping.

Thanks ahead :)

You guys know what the best burger is?

a bison burger. Fresh ground bison meat. seasoned and marinated overnight.
I have some on the grill right now. Smells like sex...on a grilll.

OHHHH man.
I'm sooo hungry....

PM sent

I have never ordered a Gun from oversea that was not complient to the Canadian ruling. I just find it silly that some company from HK put false fps chart on stock marui guns and that it goes through customs that's it. I am not risking ordering GBB that are below 366 and getting caught and black listed but I can clearly see some people doing it. Back on the subject of interest now...that is Glock upgrades ! :-D

So you would not risk importing a gun that is <366 fps, but would risk importing a pistol frame? Remember? pistol frames are prohibited for importation, even the green, red, pink, yellow or purple ones, even if it has a post in the frame.

There may be instances where guns falsely tagged with FPS readings from HK get through customs, but how do you know they all go through? Maybe there are many instances where they were seized but just weren't made aware to us? Im pretty sure there are many instances.

Just dont risk importing a frame or lower receiver

I am ordering colored frames because the border agency opened my package looked at the frame and put it back in. If it would be crystal clear that it is prohibited how come they let it pass. It's not like the parcel was not checked by the border agency because it was. Maybe the OD frame had to do something with it...but one thing for sure it was not luck

Dont get me wrong I do not think that all gun will go through with false fps reading nor that it is wise, I was obviously sarcastic in my earlier post

As per "Importing Airsoft and You" at this link: http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=40318


"Okay, so I can’t import guns. What about parts and accessories?

Yes. The good news is that most parts and accessories, including most magazines, can be successfully imported by individuals without requiring a BFL. Examples of things you CANNOT import:

AEG magazines with fake cartridges (i.e. P90, G36, SG 552 mags)
Frames, receivers, and metal bodies
Suppressors and silencers
Prohibited-length outer handgun barrels (i.e. USP Compact, Glock 26)
Hand and 40mm grenades that look real"


Eluder, chime in and reinforce that it is dependent on the CBSA patrol officer and whether he received it because of "luck" or not...

LoL I should not have read this in class.
I can only hope mine a new version.

The bodies for the g18/17 interchangeable?
Looking for a guarded body stateside, wish more stores sold parts stateside that would make happy.
Any advice on adding a buffer, or a guide anywhere?
Is that a painting of Bill Murray?

Yup Guarder glock frames fit on both G17 and G18C
Buffers can help short stroke the cycling, however, if you add too many, the slide may not lock when the magazine is empty.
What do you mean by "guide"?

I was watching your video of your Glock modifications on YouTube and I was quite impressed with the ultra smooth cycling and the ultra crisp and smooth blowback and I was thinking about doing some of your mods as well

I have a few questions for you first:

I noticed that your test Mag is plugged with your compressor giving you a Mag full of gas at high pressure all the time. I have already a really smooth cycling and I have a recoil spring with buffer from Nineball but I have switched the spring for the stock spring giving me a kick that is a bit higher than my guarder 150%. That being said, when I fill my Mag with a new or almost brand new propane bottle , the slide is able to lock on empty mags but as I am running out of gas, the slide is not locking back anymore. It does that with the 150% guarder recoil spring too. If I am filling my Mag with a half full propane bottle the gas pressure is not high enough and I am never a achieving a locked slide on empty mags. Now, do you have a problem with your slide not locking when you are past half what you have left in term of gas left in a regular Mag that you fill with a normal propane tank?

Another thing, what is the type of nozzle that you are using for your g18c? Looks like the Airsoft surgeon one is really good but I have never seen any for the g18c.

With the super glue mod do you recommend getting the Nineball magazine purple rubber too or it is overkill and the stock one are good enough?

The smooth cycling is a result of the modifications performed on the lugs of the slide and on the front/rear chassis as described in the video. The crispness and consistency of blowback is a result of the gas efficiency.

Your slide is not locking back when your magazine decreases in pressure can result from a few possible reasons:

1. There is not enough power to cycle the slide back enough in order for the slide catch to catch the slide. This can be due to poor seal/gas efficiency between the magazine/nozzle, or nozzle/piston head.

2. Using a propane tank that is nearly empty. When you fill in your magazine with a tank that is nearly empty, you're filling it with air, not propane, which is why you may not be getting enough juice to cycle the slide.

3. The stiffness of the recoil spring due to the addition of buffer(s) means that the gas needs to work harder to pull the slide back. So when your magazine has minimal gas pressure, it is not enough to counteract the recoil spring to pull the slide sufficiently for it to lock.

4. "Cooldown effect"- Simply, when the temperature is too cold, propane can not expand as much.

Even if you use propane in your magazine, your slide should be able to lock back when the magazine is empty. If not, try to find out where the gas efficiency is low. For me, my flocks all lock back on propane when all bb's are fired.

Believe it or not, im still using the stock nozzle for my G18C. It has not broken or cracked (even under propane) and i cycled the gun thousands of time. I know Guarder makes G18C nozzles, but I heard they break and crack all the time.

For my mod, you can use either super glue or gasket. Gasket seems to be more pliable and a better seal, while super glue may be more susceptible to breaking in the cold, although I haven't really tested it outside yet. However, superglue can easily be removed and shaped as desire. This is important because if you build up your nozzle too much, you can gradually sand it to the desired height. I would personally try the mod first, and if you are happy, leave it. If not, you can get the nineball gas routes as well. Dont forget to chrony your fps after the mod to see how much your FPS has increased. Also, if you build up your nozzle too much, its going to impede your slide from cycling so make sure you don't put so much.

Many of you changed out so many parts that I wondered if you had a whole new gun by now.

So far,
3 Nineball gas routes
Guarded 150% w/ hammer spring
Nineball bucking
Guarded mag catch
Angel ultimate dyna piston head (is this even a worthy upgrade???) stock might be better for all I know.

I don't know which tightbore to get.
I can't afford the slide right now
I want the rocket valve but its nowhere to be found except overseas
I use green gas only since I have so many cans from long ago

Hoping I get to 300

I would get SD hammer spring, use Airsoft Surgeon nozzle/piston head. If you want max FPS, get PDI 6.01 inner barrel with A+ reap hop up or 9ball hop up.

It is probably the gas route the problem. Because compared to the stock slide and stock bbu, the PGC slide and guns modify bbu, the bbu seems to sit higher in the slide therefore there is a bigger gap and seeing slightly more space between the frame and the slide than with the stock slide. Most of my propane tanks are running low too... and regarding the nozzle I bought the guarder one and I must have been lucky... did not crack and I shot at least 2k bbs with it...but I know that for other of my friends they shot 2 mags and it broke...depending on the batch apparently

So I bought some super glue and will try your mod ! Will let you know how it goes. I have the new firefly floating valve that is coming too !

i wonder what the strongest g19 ever made was..... and perhaps i should go back to my G23F i had as my very first AS pistol.... (that was a KSC/KWA though.....) damnit, you guys have my mind going in all sorts of directions, and hell, i havent added a SINGLE mod to my TM Detonics yet!

Since you have a G18 too, well dont install the guarder 150% spring until you get an alu slide...you will break your stock slide in no time. Just install the hammer spring

Get yourself a steel full auto seer

The steel mag catch is good if you are using extended mags regularly

The valve rocket is 21$ + 7$ shipping from Tokyo model, for gas efficiency and higher fps I think it is a must.

For tightbore, I am using the TK twist barrel and the accuracy is really good. Looks more for accuracy and consistency over power for your guns

If you to upgrade the piston head. Mind as well get the nozzle of the same brand. I went guarder for both.

If you plan on keeping the stock slide for a long time, the best recoil spring is the nineball with buffer. It works perfectly with my stock slide...

That Firefly valve is a hi-flow valve.
It has bigger holes for air to pass through.
Gas consumption will increase, not decrease.

If that's what you're going a regular Action floating valve is just as good.
In fact, I actually prefer it now since you don't have to assemble it.
THe Firefly one has a tendency to unscrew that top pointy piece and shoot out of the barrel. lol.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagdalex (Post 1867338) Since you have a G18 too, well dont install the guarder 150% spring until you get an alu slide...you will break your stock slide in no time. Just install the hammer spring

A 150% recoil spring will actually dampen the slide impact on the charging stroke.

This is because a Plastic slide doesn't have enough weight for it to fully cycle the action to the fullest fullest extent of the slide travel. Thus less felt-recoil is the result.

On the return stroke, it will have a bit of a higher velocity but since the slide doesn't have a full travel, the return distance will be shorter. Thus the slide will not be at maximum velocity on the return stroke....

now about the bison burgers:

What you want to do is get a nice fresh cut of bison meat.
Cut it in pieces. and then put it in the grinder thing.

KEEP IT ICED AT ALL TIMES.

That's KEEP IT ICED AT ALL TIMES.

Oh and...

Keep it iced at all times.

Next sprinkle some fresh ground peppers, some salt, and a bit of vinegar.

Then make your patties....
Use your hands.. and not some obscure hand tool.

I *LOVE* the KSC G19.

I used to have one. She fired so well. It had one of the most satisfying slide action I have ever had in a pistol. So Smooth.

IT was almost as good as my homemade bison burgers. But not really. Nothing tops my burgers.

It was strong too. THe KSC Frames are remarkably indestructible.

Can't say much for the G23f though. I hated that thing. lol.
IT was stupidly easy to break. Especially the hammer mech.

THis is how they looked:

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...er/df/G192.jpg
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy14.jpg
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy16.jpg

DO a Detonics build.
Not many have them. It'd be quite a unique piece.

I once used the firefly floating valve as well, and I was chronying my gun, I took a shot and the fps went up to 700fps and I heard a loud "clank" inside the chrony next to my muzzle. I realized that the conical part of the firefly rocket valve shot right out of the inner barrel at 700fps when I was chronying the gun :(

It happened to you to?
LOL.

Mine shot out and it got stuck on the dry wall...

Also...
bison burgers...

Okay, what is this about bison burgers and cooking them?? Do you really eat them?

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ok_t/Bison.jpg

BTW, i mailed out the thing today for you

YES!

Many thanks. I owe you one, T.

http://www.sunrisefoods.com/store/me...f/Bison-burger

I was down in Manitoba for the weekend doing a news item on bison burgers.
Man. It's like a New Year's eve party in New York....but in your mouth!

I made a large batch last night. Put some on the grill in at midnight in -24 weather.
Fuck they're tasty...

Do they taste like beef? Gamey? I can see you have a lil obsession with bison burgers....:eek:

https://i.imgur.com/wp2nkRb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tf0WTPT.jpg

Humm well I am confused...because in your guide you mentionned that the Firefly valve was giving better effeciency, better durability and more power... so from my understanding...more effecient would mean less gas wasted...and you are now saying that I will spend more gas :-\ there is probably something that I am missing.

For the conical parts flying...strange you guys mentionned that is flying left and right but in your guide that it was by far the best floating valve...I was thinking about putting locktite on it anyways.

Regarding the stock slide with the 150% recoil spring...well for me after 2 extended mags in burst...the stock slide cracked and front post screw too (even with Jb weld) :-\ Bought the nineball recoil with another stock slide and never had any prob with a cracked slide after...

Sorry my post above was worded differently. I meant to say Gas EFFICIENCY.

There is a difference between gas efficiency and gas consumption.

Gas efficiency is exactly as you described. Less gas wasted (in specific terms). In broader terms, it HOW the gas is USED in your gun. Meaning maximizing every single ounce of gas that the magazine expels.

Gas consumption means...gas consumption. That is, the volume of gas that is actually expelled out of the magazine to cycle the action. It's like a unit of measurement, really.

The Firefly floating valve, IMHO, is EFFICIENT at delivering gas where it needs to go. THe holes allow are widened allowing more free-flow room for air to pass through towards the BB.

A floating valve with wider holes has the POTENTIAL to increase FPS. BUT only by a few ticks.

It's also lightweight. Unlike some of the brass floating valves on the market, a lightweight floating valve will be easier to close. Once the valve closes, the rest of the gas can be used for the slide action. Increasing the time it takes to close that valve also means increasing the time gas is expelled from the magazine. UNTIL the slide action trips the firing pin disconnector, gas will continue to expel. THe design of the floating valve (weight, holes, everything) combined with the strength of its subsequent floating valve spring controls this "time variable".

Apart from the cone unscrewing itself, I still regard it as one of the better floating valves out there that are available because of these characteristics.

...and don't worry. It only happened once. Because I didn't tighten it properly.

Thanks for the thorough explanation ;-)

and to answer the durability thing...

It's metal. lol.

The stock valve tends to break the "legs" and snap in half as more and more rounds are fired. THis is further exasterbated by the full auto setting because the floating valve will have to continually open and close as the slide cycles...


That's why I say it's durable.

Yeah.. THey taste like....like...like...lemonade on a hot summer day....

Also...
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...photocopy6.jpg
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_0726.jpg

Funny thing is that their metal version is out of production and their latest version is plastic now (looks like derlin to me, which is more resistant than regular plastic) why do you think they went for a plastic one for the G18 for next gen? Because all the other firefly floating valves for the other guns are still in aluminum :-\

I have the plastic version on route to my doorstep.
I think I'm going to use my gun abusively until explodes killing millions.

Until then, I am in the market for another inner barrel. Well, one that won't eat my nineball bucking.

I'm debating if I should put in the piston head. http://www.evike.com/products/42432/

It looks really nice. I keep glancing at it.

I've been reading about those Tania Kobe barrels for years now but my itchy money spending finger is looking at pdi, id hate to have bucking eaten though.

Bison burgers, pictures of Bill Murray in a old Russian military uniform, long spouse showers, exploding slides..' TM Glock owners... lol


My gf is sick of seeing me touch my glock, she keeps glock blocking me.

Dude you have a tm G18 right? That piston head is good for G17 but not G18 the shape of the G18 piston is not the same! Dont order this! For inner barrel on Tokyo-Model.com.hk the Glock Tanio koba one is $40. It's worth it. It is arguably the most accurate inner barrel, you can loose a bit of fps (10 fps lower give or take compared to a 6.01) but who cares when it is more accurate? I am gonna try to see if the pdi w hold is better in term of accuracy to the Nineball purple one. Just got it today! Fucking money pit that Glock pimping hobby! Hehehe

Yeah TM G18c, I ended up getting that 6.01 Angel Custom one from Evike.
I ordered that piston head on accident it was really late and I cancelled the order too late.
Money pit indeed.

Edit: I forgot to add that I saw I loading nozzle break today. Not my own Glock thankfully.
I remember him saying he was using green gas but so was I.

Looking at the loading nozzle, how does one break it?

I love The Detonics too, I have a full upgraded ore, shot with It ove 10000bb's and It works Like a charm. If someone want to open a Detonics building thread you Can count on me

Usually the recurrent loading nozzle breaking happen more on the g18c because of the full auto function. It is putting more stress on it. Btw ordering parts from Asia the shipping rates are equal or lower than from ordering from the USA and most of the time your item arrives faster too... Angel custom is the Evike brand... it is nothing to write home about. I once ordered an Angel custom parts and the performance /fitting was sub par. Hopefully that this barrel is better quality and works out for you!

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE send me links/info/pics of your detonics. to be very honest, i know very little about the platform, and went right to Brian (ILLusion on here) to get advice on what to modify etc.

I WILL build it, oh yes i will. perhaps not right away, but it will be done!!!! i ADORE that pistol.

as for the G19 (larger and more modifyable than the G26, and therefore more powerful) i think this will be my next build. i simply cannot do a full size pistol, it must be compact-subcompact for my tastes. (plus my son is not even 11 yrs old yet, so smaller pistols are easier for him to hold.)

KAR120, did we ever get to the issues with your mags?

It could be a host of things really.

Delrin is actually easier to manipulate on the machines than ABS.
So from a manufacturing perspective, it's probably easier for them to mass produce than say...aluminum. But then again, Delrin is pretty expensive.

From a functionality point of view, even though it's "plastic", its almost the most perfect substitute for aluminum. Delrin is very high in density, making it almost equally resistant to impact as aluminum...