Doesn't the TM system also allow you to transfer more liquid to to the magazine also by venting the excess gas? More liquid = more shots.

Cue Mad Max wherever he may be.

I believe that you are right. More liquid gas = more shots.

But shot for shot consistency goes down the drain.

There was a post by illusion that explained this very well. But I cannot find it :(
I believe the long and short was that the more gas you have in a mag means more shots, but the mags need some empty space for gas to expand. Thats why with mauri mags you cannot fill it up to the top. They have fill valves that prevent excess filling. WE mags on the other hand do not. That is why you can fill them up all the way and get some impressive fuel consumption figures.

Thanks for all your inputs guys

I do all the time. It's like it would not accept a sufficient amount of gas.
With the same gas I do not have any problem with my M4 magazines.

I am going to replace the inlet valves with Nine Ball ones. Hopefully that will help.

Hey Eluder! Congratulations on your thread getting a sticky.

WOW!

I just noticed this...
I was looking for this thread and didn't even realize it was stickied til now.
Thanks guys!!

Remember my trouble with valve knocker and Marui Magazine?
I just tried to fit the Shooter design Valve knocker but I have the same issue, and with original KJW magazine too the strike is not as powerful as with the stock valve knocker. So I think I should mod the SD knocker but I don't know how

Are you sure you've installed your hammer spring correctly? It just sounds like a hammer spring issue whereby it's not producing a strong strike.

Again, I don't know how your gun is working. Nor do I have to inspect. So I don't know if modding your new SD valve knocker will work.

If you still want to modify the knocker valve, just make sure that it has enough room to move in order to line up with the magazine valve. If it's too long, it can "slip" around the magazine valve during the hit on the valve and only produce a minor strike. One way to spot this is if your magazine can't free drop. Instead, the valve knocker will hang onto the magazine itself.

But be very careful NOT to take too much off. If you do, the knocker won't be long enough to efficiently press the magazine valve and you'll get the same lightstriking effect. You have to keep testing and refitting...

The only solace that I can give you is that since the stock magazine with the stock valve knocker works fine, I think you should stick to that. It's the only thing that works best for you. It's clear that your Marui magazine is not compatible with your KJW system.

yes. the spring is installed correctly, this because with the stock knocker the strike is much stronger.
Perhaps you are right to not use Marui mags, but I ever known about the full compatibility between KJW pistols and TM magazines

I 'll do a last try, I'll replace the TM magazien valve with an aftermarket one. and as soon the Guarder hammer spring with a stronger one.
This because is the TM mag is filled with a low pressure gas it works

Question about piston lid:

with my last parts order I added a guarder piston lid/head to the basket as I figured it couldn't hurt to have a spare;
My stock one (I think it is the stock one at least) still looks in great shape;
But I noticed the Guarder was harder than the stock.

so my question is basically this: Would a harder be better in that case or should I stick with the Marui one?

Colder weather is harsher on harder plastic components. In the winter time, a harder piston lid may break because the colder weather makes it more frigid. It's essentially like how water turns into icicles in the winter and how easily you are able break it off. It's *sort* of the same process.

It would be ideal to run the harder piston head in the summer because it's more harder and will create a better seal and is less likely to break.
Run the stock piston cup during the winter because it's a bit softer will have a longer time "freezing up" (for a lack of a better term).

For what it's worth, the stock piston cup works much better than most of the after market replacements out there. It provides a good seal as is. It only breaks if that gun your rocking has "too good a seal" because the design of the piston cup itself is not very solidified like the G17s piston head.

I'd say stick with the stock one all year long til it breaks. Use the Guarder one for a back up.

but if the piston cup isn't even seal properly, it won't even matter what type of material it is made out of. It will last for a while if this is the case. So I suppose you have to ensure that the seal is damn near perfect and doesn't impede the loading muzzle stroke.

In some cases with the Guarder piston cup, the experiences I've had yeilded me having to lubricate the piston cup a bit for the loading muzzle to function efficiently. It's not recommended you do this because you'll get your hop up bucking all wet with lube and crap. But I just did it because I was very frustrated with the product to begin with.

Guarder's been letting me down for long while now. I wouldn't be surprised if that piston cup somehow breaks on you sooner rather than later....

Noted
Thanks for the input!

BTW, that hammer bearing question you posted on the other thread...

That's normal.
Even on the stock hammer set, that component has a tendency to catch on the BBU. This problem also persists in the latter G17 platform. So it's not uncommon for you to have these issues.

It would be wrong for you to wear the BBU down. You just have to run it's course. Lube the gun. Charge and dry fire the gun a million times without any gas and you should be good to go.

You COULD pre-emptively wear the hammer bearing down but that would be counter intuitive of the whole replacement process. But if you are going to do it regardless, just make sure you take off as less as possible.... and keep re-testing it.

Otherwise, if you take too much off, you won't get that sear to lock the hammer. lol

Custom rear plate
 

Is it possible to put a custom rear plate like these http://www.rockyourglock.com/parts/BlackSCPs.htm to am Airsoft Glock?
I know this should be a troubled Dremel work but I ask you if anyone has made it

No.

THe Tokyo Marui Glocks have an integrated cover plate. the BBU is one piece and it includes the backplate...

It may work for the KSC/KWA line because of the proper dimensions. But as you said, you'd have to modify the hell out of the RS coverplate you're looking at.
That RS plate has to house a retention spring for he firing mechanism on a RS Glock. Plus you'll have to combat all kinds of fitting issues if want to mount THAT thing on an Airsoft Glock.

Another one that could be possible is the VFC/Stark Arms Glocks. They have a seperate cover plate like the RS Glocks do.

But Again, as you specified, you'll need a lot of dremmel work fit it and then find someway to lock it into place so that it doesn't drop out during operation...

Anyone knows is this hammer spring is suitable only for the TN G17? http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...ecial&rs=glock hammer spring&catid=&cat=
I need for a KJW G26

G26/27 threaded barrel
 

I found on sale this http://www.airsoftextremo.com/acceso...000057190.html
I didn't know about it, I think is nice not only to add a silencer but an orange muzzle too, when required

This hammer spring is my preferred choice. It's much more consistent than the Guarder ones. You get a tighter FPS output.

Don't know about mounting on a KJW though. I haven't tried it before....

Be careful when you use a suppressor.
It pulls your outerbarrel down and interrupts the slide action. In most cases, if the suppressor is too heavy, your slide will not be able return to battery at all. Rather, it will get stuck on the forward stroke.

In the extreme cases, and this occurs mostly on short barrelled pistols, sometimes it will actually interrupt the tilt cycle of the barrel and will lock up the slide. This is because the weight of the suppressor will not allow the barrel to slip beneath the slide. The result is that your gun will vent out the magazine because the valve disconnect is not tripped since the slide is "locked" (it can't cycle and remains in battery).

So be cautious. The barrel is fine to acquire and install but the suppressor needs to be light enough so that it doesn't interrupt the functionality of the slide and barrel...

Question for those with experience with the Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Nozzle:

I recently just replaced all the stock/Guarder nozzles on my Glocks with the AS Clear nozzle, hoping for better efficiency and durability. While I did get better durability, I believe my gas efficiency has gone to hell. I can't finish an entire long mag without heavy cool down effects (and there isn't any auto or rapid firing involved). As soon as I hit the 25th round or so, I can feel the huge loss in slide kickback. I also get tons of liquid sprayed out of the ejection port (not sure if it's either propane or silicone oil) on each shot.

The gun would shoot fine (without any liquid spray) with the stock TM nozzle in the same conditions (indoor at Ultimate Airsoft). Does anyone else experience this as well?

Hey ken,

The AS kit is actually the best sealing piston head/loading muzzle combo for the Marui Glocks in my experience. They have a tight seal that gives you a crispier slide cycle. In fact, when they first arrive to my door, the fit between the two components are so tight that when the loading muzzle is returning to battery, it would get stuck half way through. lol. At least that's what happened to me.

Other kits out there act the opposite way and have the same effect that you are describing.

For me, I am able to clear a standard size magazine easily with enough to spare for another half stack. And this magazine has a high output blowoff valve installed.

To me it sounds like the o-ring on the piston head is not sealing for your set. Check to make sure that it's not damaged or anything. If it's loose, that would explain the symptoms you are describing. The easy fix would be to go to Canadian Tire and find a suitable o-ring replacement for it. One time, I brought my whole BBU there and tried on multiple o-rings for hours. I found the suitable replacement and works amazingly on my gun but it cost me a loading muzzle spring during the whole fitting time. I lost it... then I was sad forever...

If you can't find one, you can make the teflon tape modification like how some people here like to wrap them around the piston head of a GBBR. It works too.

Also, check to see if the floating valve and all that jazz is working properly and not damaged. If the spring in there is crimped in any way or if it's too strong or if it impedes the closure of the floating valve, it can impact the amount of gas your gun takes up per cycle because the valve will remain open longer than it should. Basically, you want that valve to be able to open and close fairly easily.

...or it may even be just how the magazine itself behaves. lol. But that's another story...

Interesting. I'll try looking at the O-ring once more. It's strange because they're brand new and I have it on two G17's that have the exact same problem. They both shoot fine on stock nozzles though. All tests were done on WE 50 round mags (which do have hi-flow valves that are factory installed).

Thanks Rock!

Hmmm.
That could be an issue onto itself. Some of those WE Glock mags act funky on the Marui system.

Some of them have a weird fitting issue with the magazine catch. Some of them sit loose and some of them sit uber tightly. Even the seal at the top are sometimes different. The first iteration of those mags came with a flat upper seal. Now they are curved like the Marui ones.

I dunno. It may be worth your time to investigate the slide cycle using a Marui magazine. After all, they are meant for each other...

I don't need a suppressor but only a light muzzle Painted red. In my country ASG, carried outside must have the final 3cm of the front protuding Painted red. so, a threded barrel and a fake muzzle may be a solution to legally carry my Glock

G26/27 Hammer mech housing
 

Days ago surfing the web I founded a full housing mech with all parts for the Marui Glock but now I don't remeber what shop sell it.
For full housing I mean all the parts such, hammer , valve knocker, springs and the metal housing.
Anyone knows who sell these parts?

Random problem today on my TM G17....

Was shooting in my basement. Things were fine. I switched mags, shot 3 shots and the slide didn't return properly. It did this multiple times. I removed the slide and the barrel and noticed that the nozzle part isn't returning on its own anymore... I checked the sprint and everything looks fine.

Any ideas? I can try and post video for everyone to see what I mean.


Edit: Nevermind... seems it just needed a little silicone oil. :oops:

Me.

Glad it was fixed.
:)

APS CO2 magazine - Want to run your TM Glock on CO2? Now it is possible.

Fancy box.

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps11751409.jpg

Nice finish, good assembly. It just feels fine.

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps07ccd649.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps212e04c0.jpg

APS on the left, TM on the right.

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps904649c3.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc29d7f88.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps87cd877e.jpg

Only marking the magazine got is on the baseplate.

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8eab1d9a.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps637ad655.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscbccf0b0.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps139c0cbc.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...psaeb43289.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps697dd549.jpg

It fits my TM G17 perfectly.

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7528cefb.jpg

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3a59bc83.jpg

It shoots, slide locks back without problems. This magazine is pretty much the same as a TM magazine. I chronoed it to 355-370 FPS.

Only issue I had with the magazine is that I had to sand off some paint from its inside, where the CO2 cartridge is seated. Otherwise the cartridge might get stuck.

And obviously recoil is now a problem. I have to look for a stronger slide and recoil springs because a Guarder 150% spring is not enough. Guns Modify's reinforced frame is also a must have item.

Surprisingly the stock hammer spring and valve knocker is enough to open the valve.

[QUOTE=e-luder;1803418]Me.


you have pm

Hi Guys,

Any idea how well the HK3 Slide and Frame work together on a TM G17?

I've found plenty of info on the frame, but nothing on people installing the HK3 aluminium slide and steel barrel set for the TM.

I've ordered both so was hoping to get some installation feedback, particularly on the slide internal part fitment and if filing is needed to align with the frame smoothly.

Cheers, Dan

You should be fine with Marui parts in there. I personally had no troubles droppin the Marui system in the HK3 shell....

Although if are going to sand things down, make sure they the parts that you can replace. The frame is hard to come by but the slide can be had anywhere...

The only thing that can prove to be a bit of a minor annoyance is the mag catch an magazines. HK3's magazines are bit out of Marui specs.

Hey e-luder, any idea what kind of mag this is?

http://i.imgur.com/0YaOyen.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vSezC8u.jpg

It's too short to fit in my 18c, drops right out.

Man I wish I was age verified, I need to sell 3 brand new marui long mags a standard mag and a brand new pgc slide set. But I can't because I'm in america >.>

To be honest, No.

Those can be ANY Pistol magazine that I'm looking at...
But from the looks of THOSE pics, those look like KSC Glock mags. Marui's feed lips are not rounded like those you pictured. They are a hit more square like with the rounded topside. Plus, Marui and most of their clones have plastic feed lips, IIRC (i could be wron on that). The ones in your pic look like metal ones...

May you take additional pictures of the whole magazine?

The shape of the lip seal rubber also looks like KSC/KWA and they are supposed to be smaller than the TM variant.

quick question regarding hk3p/TM. I jst dropped my TM internals into a HK3p frame and since then it hasnt been working properly. I've been experience 2 problems:
1. double feeding
2. trigger doesnt reset (it will fire and blowback, but the trigger doesnt reset)

any clues? I literally just took everything from the TM frame and put it into the HK3p one, not sure whats wrong?

thanks

Was the TM stuff in the original TM frame working before you transplanted them in the HK3P frame? What magazine are you using? Does the slide lock back on an empty magazine?

yep it was working flawlessly in the TM frame, I'm using the TM magazine and it does lock back on an empty magazine.

Your trigger not resetting is usually a telltale sign of a sloppy slide. This particular problem happens when the slide cannot push the trigger bar down far enough to disengaged it from the sear. Thus, it can't spring the trigger forward like it should...

You can tell if your slide is sloppy if it wobbles side to side and up and down. When the slide humps over the hammer bearing, it will spaced apart a bit. The space created is sometimes enough for the slide not to interface with the trigger bar. Thus, it won't reset the trigger.

Also, there is a little spring attached to your trigger bar. This is the only other spring apart from the recoil spring that it is visible. It's right above the magazine chamber. Anyways, if that spring is not working, your trigger wont reset because there will be nothing to "pull" the trigger bar forward to reset the trigger to a fire ready state. Make sure that that spring is seated and functioning correctly....

In regards to your double feeds...
I can't answer this fully as there could many factors that is causing it. This can range from a hop up rubber being too tight, the arm on the loading muzzle not functioning as it should, the magazine doesn't give you enough air to push the BB out of the barrel, etc...

I would inspect how your gun is chambering your BBs and go from there....

thought i'd give an update to everyone, thanks for the help!

the slide fits well and isnt any movement, i've tried with my PGC metal slide as well as the stock TM custom one and had the same results.

that being said, everything seems to have solved itself, quite literally, over night. i picked it up when i got home and tried to trouble shoot it again and it shot fine, flawless....

thanks for everyones help

Has anyone tried slides from SRU? Were there any fitment issues with TM G18cs??
This is the slide I am looking at: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/sru-sr-18...bb-pistol.html

+1 for the NineBall rubber, FPS jumped from 290 - 330.

Dunno about the TM side but I dropped this slide in my WE G18c without any issues. It's ok. I guess but the cyclic rate wasn't as good as I hoped it would be. So I modified my internals a little bit...

Haven't really had time to swap it into a Marui G18c though. But I'll see if it is ok...

Tried out Guns Modify G17 V3 glock hammer, and here is a comparison between this hammer and the AIP steel hammer. All I can say is WOW! the dynamic bearing (DB) on the Guns Modify is much better than the AIP circle bearing (CB).

Here is a list of reasons why the Guns Modify is better than the AIP

1. The DB, having flat surfaces allows the bbu to glide much more smoothly compared to the CB that is rounded. The DB runs flat against the bbu, while the CB touches the bbu at one point (kinda like a tangent to a circle), but is constantly being pushed down by the bbu when the slide cycles given the cylindrical nature of the CB. Because of this, when the slide is racked even though the hammer is cocked, you feel ABSOLUTELY no friction with the DB. This is not true for the CB.

2. If you look at the picture below, you can see that the front of the hammer is much more flat and steep on the Guns Modify compared to the AIP. Again, this reduces resistance the bbu has to overcome when the slide cycles back.
https://i.imgur.com/0zzbJRQ.jpg


3. If you look at the picture below, you can see the notch on both hammers that the sear engages. Notice how the Guns Modify notch is more sharp compared to the AIP steel hammer. As such, the Guns Modify hammer is able to be released much faster because of the drastic change in angle at the notch, as opposed to the notch on the AIP hammer where it is shaped more like a hill.


https://i.imgur.com/33zAZSL.jpg

The Guns Modify G17 hammer (V3) is a drop in fit and works pretty well with my AIP sear, AIP valve knocker, and AIP valve delayer. Gun cycles with much less resistance now, and I can barely feel the hammer being cocked when I rack the slide back. Enjoy.

Issue with trigger get sticked when pulled
 

My KJW G27 has this issue.
After pulled the trigger for firing it dosn't come back to the normal position but remains sticked.

I examined the trigger bar for some bending because when the trigger is sticked and if I pull a little the bar, the trigger snaps in the neutral position.
I upgraded the bar with the Guarder steel one but I have no solved the issue.
I think that the bar head moving in the hammer housing has caused some wearing.
Anyone knows if this is a common issue and what is the solution?

Did you check the trigger bar spring to see if it is intact? This is the spring that resets the trigger.

Spring is ok, and if I pull the trigger with the bar out of the hammer housing keep it stopped with my hand it works flawlessly

So that means that something in the hammer housing is preventing the trigger bar to reset. Maybe it's not being depressed down enough by the slide for it be reset beneath the sear

The slide is not guilty, my issue is well clear pulling the trigger without the slide.
To reset the trigger I must push a little or the trigger bar or that part rising up from the hammer housing (I don't know if it is the sear)

So that means that the part on the trigger bar is being caught in the hammer housing. If you have to push the part on the trigger bar that sticks up from the hammer housing, it means that it is not being pushed down enough for the trigger to reset. The part on the trigger bar that pushes the sear needs to be completely pushed downward in order for the trigger bar to reset.

A video to better describe the issue

KJW Glock 27 trigger issue - YouTube

I cant really make out what is wrong, but that looks normal.. When you pull the trigger, the trigger bar goes between the sear to release the hammer (hence, you should see the sear move backwards). After, you should be able to depress the trigger bar to reset the trigger. When this happens, the trigger bar moves back downward so that the sear can reset and move foward

I don't really see what the issue is here.
That extra slack that you're feeling when the trigger is not charged is common in all KJWs. You have to modify it so that it locks back the rear like a real Glock does.

Tokyo Maruis have this same slack too but it has less travel. Barely even noticeable.

You should have shown it with your hammer charged as well. That's when things really come to light and will show if there are any real issues to deal with.

The issue is the same, both with the trigger charged or not. I doesn't reset but it remain sticked half way

Does the gun shoot with your sticky trigger?

So I've ordered a TM G18c and a ton of parts to upgrade it (my new little project, with a bit of guidance from this thread), but one part I can't seem to find anywhere is a blowoff valve.. Any idea where these can be found?

Yes

A blowoff valve is a magazine valve. There a ton of valves available out there.
Gaurder, KM, Firefly, Action, etc. The list can go on. They are called "hi-flow valves" if you do a search....

I'm not sure what to make of this. If the gun fires, i see no real problem.
Again, KJWs don't have a trigger lock up perse. They have a bit of slack when the trigger is at rest.

KSC Glocks are the only ones that I know of that truly immitates the trigger of a real steel Glock....

You might want to re-check everything. The trigger bar mostly if anything is impeding the travel....

That explains a lot... Thanks!

Figured you guys deserve an update, here was my gun before I sold the slide (filed it too much which caused firing problems and fitment issues. The new owner loves it though and has no issues so no worries!)

http://i.imgur.com/kKzcvkV.jpg

How strong should be the v shaped spring under the trigger chassis?
I bent it accidentally and now the safe plate works only in one way

Just fitted the SD valve knocker but my KJW G27 doesn't shot; maybe a light strike issue.
I knew about the poor quality of the Guarder knocker do I tried the SD one but with poor results. Anyone experienced my issue? how do I need to modify this knocker to work well?

Recoil buffer question.

How many of these do you usually put on? and i'm correct in thinking they go at the rear of the spring guide rod right?

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/media/cat...MGLK_MARK1.jpg

are tm magazine fill valves compatible with WE magazines
anyone know where to find we fill valves?

Hey guys thinking of getting a ksc g19 recoil spring/ spring guide for my kjw g23. I didn't know if this has been tried as so, or with ksc g17 to tm g17. I figure as long as they are the same length that is the only critical factor. Please give me your thoughts. If no one knows I can be a guinea pig for $5.00

Why not get the right part for a dollar more?
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/guarder-s...9-g23-gbb.html
KSC is a different design internally.

okay so my floating value finally kicked the can, i went to take my BBU apart the other day and my floating value was cracked so now i'm looking for a new one and maybe even a new BBU, but one problem i can't find one anywhere. all i'm finding is 1911 floating values so my question is will this work with my TM G17, and i would like to get this part within canada due to the high shipping cost for such a low cost part, but if anyone does know where i could get one or if a 1911 floating value works with a G17 i would greatly appreciate it!

A 1911/hi capa floating valve won't work on a Marui Glock. It's just too big.

The floating valves usually come in a set which includes a loading muzzle, the valve blocker and the floating valve spring.

The only spare floating vale that I know of is the Firefly ones. They are metal and are harder to break.

BUT, a friend of mine recently just told me that his Firefly valve blew out of the front end just like a normal BB. lol. It's hard to explain. If you know they are constructed, you'll know how this is possible.

A+ just released a high powered floating valve. I have a sample coming in.

Another slide on the "must have" list.

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...se&catid=&cat=

WOW!
It comes with ALL that!?

I'm down. i'm curious about their CNC BBU. Might be worth it just for that. lol.

Now we play the waiting game.

Interesting, when put on a glock 18c it has a selector under the rear of the slide...

Guns Modify SAI RMR slide prototype for Marui Glock 17 Glock 18 Pre order now ! - YouTube

I really now want one lol, I need a new bbu I might wait and see what comes of this new cnc BBU is like, my glock is in need of an upgrade!

And another one. Looks a lot like the first one.

https://www.facebook.com/ACE1ARMS

i really have to stop looking at these, the more and more i see it the more and more i want to get it! its such a nice slide, even without the RMR sight but the sight makes the slide!

I think they made a new BBU that MIGHT be proprieritary to the RMR slide. Looking at this thing, it looks like they may have altered the top portion of the BBU's dimension to accomodate the notch on the slide for the scope. My guess anyways...

But who knows. It may be just a plain old BBU but just processed through CNC machine...

I personally like the regular Salient look. No RMR!!!
Nevertheless... WANT!!

Did you see the BBU pictures on WGC?

Yeah I just search it..

Here's the BBu
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...fy&catid=&cat=

G18c:
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...fy&catid=&cat=

Looks the same I guess. It's probably a bit lighter as well...
THey are already out. I'll have to make a purchase order for them soon. heh...

Although, it'd be pretty interesting to see how well that piston retainer works with other aftermarket piston heads...

In my communications with them, the BBU that comes with the kit is unique only to the kit, as it has to incorporate fitment of the melt-in optic mount.

There is a separate product available for a light weight CNC machined aluminum aircraft blowback unit (very similar to the ILLusion Kinetics product for the Hi-Capa/1911 series) that is available for sale separately. I have a couple of these inbound to me right now.

They say they're packing mine, but it still shows as pre-order. I hope they aren't teasing.

RMR copy lined up. Now just need to figure out the holster.

I knew it. lol.
I saw their seperate BBUs for sale on WGC.
Thanks Brian.

...and watch your inbox for my PM regarding those BBUs. You'll get one as soon as you list them in your sales thread. :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Do you know how much their BBU weighs by any chance?

Sweet. Post up some pics when you get it in. I'm itching to get mine and inspect the shit out it....

I should have them in my hands early-mid next week.

No idea about the weight at this time, but I'm guessing it'll be around 30 grams.

I hope this will be heavier than aip or aka bbu

Box with Guarder and Detonator slides just showed up. So I guess I have to build 3 pistols.

Build thread please!?

Second!^ Lots and lots of pictures!

I'll see what I can do. No picture till the end though, don't want to spoil the surprise.

That's no fun...

Let me know how you like that Detonator slide. I think it's prolly the best out of the all the slides that I've fondled...and I've fondled a lot....

It's pretty nice for sure. First glance as nice as the AS. I'll see how the fitting goes.

Right now I"m stippling all the plastic objects I can find in the workshop to nail down the 2 styles planed for these builds (and the upcoming Salient).

That's going to be a sweet one. It should require any fitting at all. It's just a straight drop. Although I think there's a trick to putting the slide in...

When I had my Detonator Glock, I didn't stipple it. I think you called me on it too. lol.

But you'll be doing it right...and then some. I'm eager to see it.

The slide doesn't feet straight on, it mates up halfway on the frame.

The Bowie build will be the first one done so it'll be up here soon.

I think it will actually be lighter. The AIP one is cast, which tends to be heavier.

The AIP is about 24g without the loading muzzle set and piston head.... about/nearly half the stock BBU weight.

That'd be a little too light for my taste if it was lighter but then again., I prolly wont even notice the weight difference. I will probably complain more about the felt recoil with the G-Modify BBU if anything. heh. THat light, it may have lighten it the recoil.

Oh wow, I didn't realize the AIP one is already that light. I think the measurements I made with the AIP for Hi-Capa/1911, was using a piston head installed for the sake of equality in measurements, since some units come with integrated piston heads.

The AIP Glock BBU has an integrated Piston head too. With it on, it's like 26g (IRRC). It's also cast aluminum (i think).

According to the product listings on most retailers overseas, the G-modify BBU is about 30g. ... which is...good enough for me.

I'm hoping that the G-modify BBU isn't going to go through a trial-and-error-like progression like they did with their zero hammers. But I guess that's the mark of a good manufacturer.

Sort of... it shows that they're willing to continue putting time (money) in, to improve on a product's shortcomings (ahem... Element.... 5KU... TSC... etc)

The mark of a better manufacturer, is an unwillingness to release a product on to the market AT ALL, until they simply cannot find anything else majorly wrong with it. (Tokyo Marui, Airsoft Innovations, etc...)

True. True.

At least they listened to customer feedbacks unlike others...

Just weighed the new Guns Modify light weight blow back housing set for TM G17.... 23 grams total, for the entire kit. That includes the BBU, piston, piston screw, and rear plate. No piston head included.