I always JB weld that post before installation. The Guarder Frames are stronger than the stock ones but they are not invincible. THey will crack and break sooner or later.

When they do crack, the usually crack at the base of the post and not around. This is because of the brass screw casing that come pre-installed.

So what I do is cement the casing in JB Weld. You'll notice that there is a large recess on top of the trigger guard on the innards of the frame. Fill that void with JB Weld.

Like this:

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy-3.jpg

My Guarder frame has yet to show signs of wareage from this mod but then again, I don't use this specific Glock all that often...


I use the white lithium grease on my guns of the same brand if I can't find superlube.

This one here:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345.../dp/B000HBNV58

The debate on whether or not white lithium damages seals and o-rings rages on in different airsoft forums. Some swear by it, others hate it. SOme play it safe with silicone and others say silicone is too light.

But from my personal experience, there hasn't been any damages on any plastic and rubber components on any of my guns incurred from the use of white lithium grease. And I've been using it for a while now...

I personally dont like using the white lithimum for long periods of time. IE guns that are a massive pain to put back together. I have bought guns that have had the white lithium get all chalky and hardened up. It wasnt too fun cleaning that mess up. But if thats all that is around then its perfectly fine.

http://www.gadgetplus.ca/images/prod...icWave_LG3.jpg
http://www.gadgetplus.ca/jewelry/SonicWave.html#pic


This thing works wonders!!!!!!!!!
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Holllyyy crappp. Why am I learning about this now?? Great now I have another present to buy myself for xmas :D

So long paper towel and q tips!

Thanks for that, I'm gonna buy some JB Weld tomorrow.

Also,

1.Can I use a real steel front sight on the g18 somehow?

2. How do I reassemble the hammer housing?

Well the outside is almost there. A bit of dehorning and some new sights and I can move to the inside.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...5946759478.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...5946722260.jpg

zomgz.... *drool*

As RacingManiac stated in previous posts, the front sight will need modifications if you are trying to mount a Real Glock one.

THere are scores of youtube vidoes out there. I would make one but the file is is huge and won't upload properly.....

Anyways, here's a great one for you...

marui glock 18c hammer spring upgrade for green gas. - YouTube

That build is so sexy.....
Now you need this to match the outer-barrel. Though IMO the gold trigger is a bit off shade and cheaper looking that the Salient Arms OB.

http://www.wgcshop.com/WGC_Shop/imag..._cnsstbk_l.jpg

Well...
That pic is kinda misleading. The safety is more gold than yellow in real life. But it's a damn good trigger.....

It's on the list for sure.

I tried that but its not much use to me as my hammer is COMPLETELY disassembled, all the pins are out, the knocker is seperated, EVERYTHING

Is there some way I could contact you outside of the site? if you could walk me through this that would be amazing

Here's a video I made a loooooooooong while ago. I just uploaded it.
Sorry if it's not very clear.

I'll write up a guide for you once I find time later tonight...

Of course....

it would actually be helpful if I posted the link....

http://youtu.be/eJPzT6U3Jkw

That was helping alot and we were studying each second to make sure we installed it right....

Then we found out the hammer is broken .-.

YAAAAAAAAAAAAY DERAIL so much for getting this done before winter break is over

And I cannot find a new hammer anywhere :(

I mailed gunsmodify and I guess I just gotta wait now

This hammer is pretty sexy...
I've used it in a number of my custom builds. You may need to custom fit it though. The fitting sometimes can be a bit "off". Especially with the rotary piece. Some of the ones that I got required a minor filing job and a good grease tuning to eliminate unwanted friction. It's made out of steel so you'll want to pay close attention to how you fit it and how it interacts with the BBU. If you don't grease it properly, it can chew up the BBU overtime...

http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/shop/b...ge.340x283.jpg
http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/shop/i...oducts_id=9002

I don't normally recommend the GunsModify Zero Hammer. Mainly because it needs a lot of work before it optimizes its functionality. This is even with their "newer" iterations. It takes a long break in period before it reaches what it needs to do properly...

Alright, thanks for that. I'll buy it and hopefully it will work for me. I ordered and received some team losi 25wt silicone shock oil and superlube dielectric grease so hopefully those will work :)

You may also want to look into upgrading your Sear (silver thing in the video).

Pot metal VS steel is not very good mix. The steel component will almost instantly win and wear down the pot metal component.

If your buying the KM hammer, I suggest you get a steel sear of some sort. The sear hooks on the hammer (the contact point on hammer to the sear) will wear the hammer hook (the contact point on the sear to the hammer) on the sear quicker.

For costing, AIP has a complete steel hammer set for the Marui Glock 18c. The thing is, they are almost sold out everywhere.

But from my personal experience, they need a bit of fitting work to get into place and bit of a break in period. Particularly, the valve knocker tends to create a weak strike on the blowoff valve. But you can fix that easily...

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-p...-18c-60-1.html

Are you talking about that? Or could you show ne a picture or an out of stock link? Because i found aip steel hammer parts if that's what you mean?

http://www.aipairsoft.com/aip/mobile...roducts_id=730

Holy tits for a small piece it sure is expensive

Well should I get the aip one or the km/tmc one?

Yeah that's only ONE of the sears. I'm talking about the very first thing you put in when you re-assembled the hammer housing. Remember that spring that I put in the wrong way in the video? That part that it rests on. That silver thing...

Anyways, if you don't want to spend all the money, get the AIP one. I doubt you'll be able to find a spare sear all by it self for the Glock...

Yeah I thought that's what you were talking about.

But the AIP and the KM one are the same price lol so thats why I asked.

I guess I'll go ahead and order the AIP since the KM wouldn't be the right decision since I cant find a steel sear?

It's completely your choice...
I can't advise you one way or the other. I just want you to be wary of the what components you are mixing together.

The AIP set is good for economical reasons but fitting wise (for me at least), I had to mod mine quite a bit. Mainly removing the surface imperfections with some light sanding and re-polishing.

The KM Hammer is a complete fit and the finish is quite lovely. But the downside is that it tends to ware out the sear a little faster than the stock one. You'll need the proper amount of lube once in a while to pro-long this damage...

I'll be posting up a guide shortly for modding the AIP full steel trigger set with guarded slide to make your gun cycle like butter.

I went ahead and bought the aip one, the km one could wear down an almost irreplaceable part so I couldn't have that. Kind of odd that the aip hammer uses a bearing rather than the traditional heart shaped piece, would you know why that is?

Maybe AIP thought that a rolling bearing guides smoother than the heart shaped roller? To be honest, I find the heart shape roller better, its more dynamic than the bearing.... However, you can always reduce the nub on the bbu so there is less resistance when it rubs on the bearing. Mind you though, if you take off the nub too much, your hammer wont cock (ie. be caught by the sear), as such, I suggest you use caution if you do sand off the nub.

I can't say for sure why AIP have decided to go with the wheel style hammer bearing. I'm not part of their design team so can't speak for them.

But from an engineering perspective, it makes total sense to replicate the bearing found on the G17. I think that bearing is much more reliable and much more fluent than the bearing found on the G18c.

For starters, the bearing will roll along the BBU as opposed to gliding along. THink of it like a wheel VS a sled on pavement. Without the proper lubrication (like say, snow) the sled will not run smoothly. Whereas a wheel will work regardless. This same principle applies to the different style hammer bearings found in the two Marui Glock platforms.

The trouble with running with the wheel bearing is already pointed out by Turok_T. It has a harder time humping over the bump on the BBU (like a speed bump). This is where all the friction comes from. Unless you modify the BBU a bit to create that smooth cycle.

With the rotary G18c style, the bearing rotates around that hump, which will have less friction. But as it moves further into the slide's cycle, it will wear faster because of the contact friction (like the sled in the pavement).

THe second reason why it will be more reliable to implement the wheel bearing is to eliminate an impact point on the hammer itself. A lot of times, the bearing on the G18c will actually break with a hard kicking pistol. When you add the full auto function to the mix, it will only be a matter of time before the bearing breaks. This is often the case during the winter time with the pot metal bearing becomes frigid in the colder weather and becomes easier to break...

Here's what I'm talking about:
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...psb71f9161.jpg
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9a7a000.jpg

You can see that a corner has been sheared off and notice how out of position it is as it sits on the hammer. The bearing, at this point, just rotates. There's no longer a place for the nub on the hammer to stop the bearing from completely rotating. This will jam up the slide cycle because the other corners on the bearing will catch the BBU the wrong way. THe second thing is that when it breaks, there is nothing to keep it from springing out and dropping to the ground....

This why I sometimes order the KM Hammer set. Just to get that piece in steel so it won't self destruct. The stock one is made of pot metal.

The trouble with the AIP set is that the bearing is made too big, causing a lot of friction. THis is why Turok_T has to come up a guide to fit it properly. For me, I replaced the bearing to a smaller, custom made one. The set isn't really compatible with any of the 8mm and 9mm bearings made by...Action(?) (I think).

So just be prepared to do a bit of work when you get yours.

Guide should be ready shortly :) Just a bit tired from doing all the gun doc work in my area for the GTA today :(

I don't want to modify the BBU nub in case I ever need to get a standard designed hammer...

But at the same time I'm weary of having to go through alot of steps to get the bearing instead of heart-shaped hammer to work on the 18c ...

I would love to get the KM hammer because it fits perfectly(?) and will take little work to install vs the AIP hammer but if it wears down the sear then I'm really screwed.

Figured I'd contribute something at least rather than harassing you guys

Enjoy these build pictures.

http://imgur.com/a/Tnoqd#0

I have completed my guide on how to modify the AIP hammer set for Tokyo Marui G17 and how to make your Guarder G17 slide cycle smoothly like butter for your glock.

Here is and excerpt to my tutorial, if you are interested, you can click on the link below to read more..

"Welcome to Turok's tutorial on installing the AIP G17 Hammer set and Guarder G17 slides to your existing TM glock. I was inspired to post this tutorial following my experience with a PGC slide on my TM G18C. The PGC slide required minimal to no modifications and cycles like butter on my glock. However, Guarder slides (for TM glocks at least) don't exactly cycle as smooth out of the package due to slight variances in their dimensions. After witnessing how buttery smooth a PGC slide cycles, I HAD to find a way for my Guarder glock slides to cycle just as smooth. Why did I pick Guarder? Because they offer the most variety in TM glock slides compared to other manufacturers, and PGC didn't manufacture the ones I wanted. Hence, I developed this guide."

If you guys are interested, you can read the full tutorial here: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...34#post1743334

Turns out I've had an extra sear this whole time. along with the rest of the aip hammer parts set.. The first one, not the set with the actual hammer that I just ordered

Now I have to go through the hassle of returning this aip one IF they let me >.<

Hoping someone could help me with my problem :( My loading nozzles are breaking at the point where the (return spring?) sits.
The pistol in question is a TM G18C
Just installed a PGC Slide + Barrel, Guarder Enhanced loading nozzle, SA 150% Hammer Spring
After installing everything and dry firing to see if everything works, i noticed the nozzle was still in a forward position, not stuck in the hop up unit. Thinking I fucked up, I installed the stock nozzle and the same thing happened after the first shot.
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/4...0117221820.jpg

I can help I if u like, I've got the same setup as u and just live a bit south of u. I need to take a look at it to diagnose the issue

This a fairly common area to break in the muzzle. The Glock 18c's loading muzzle only has two impact points against the blowback housing, as opposed to the G17 where it has three. THe first is the actual circumferance of the loading muzzle that hits the back of the piston head prong. the second is that nub.

That nub can only break in two ways:

the first is if the loading muzzle's return spring is too strong and slams the loading muzzle against the BBH too hard. This is a rarity that it will break like this since there is first impact point i mentioned above to cushion to blow.

the Second is if the return spring is not able to overcome the the force of the slide as it travels to the rear forcing the loading muzzle to remain stationary while all the other parts are moving around it. This action will slam that nub to the FRONT of the BBH rather than the back. At this point, the only thing that cushions the blow is the nub. This is why this part fails or breaks. It's the ONLY impact point during this time.

I would check to make sure that the muzzle return spring can function properly. That is, it is able to push the loading muzzle back to battery. Make sure that the plastic plunger does not go inside of the muzzle.

THe second thing I would check is to see if there is any contact friction between anything surrounding the loading muzzle. This can be from the magazine's gas route packing, the BBH, even the hop up unit.

You have Turok_T's support. I would advise you to take the gun to him for further diagnosis.

Same issue, PGC barrel and slide, as well as PGC slide/Guarder barrel.

Stock nozzle took a lot longer to break though.

For some reason this is also very common for WE g18c as well. I've seen around six if the same issue where the nub on the nozzle breaks.. Hmmm

The other reason I thinking is that when a magazine is inserted, it pushes up the air nozzle so that it is at an angle. This may prevent the air nozzle in efficiently retracting when the slide travels rearward. When the slide slams forward into battery, the bbu may be hitting the nub at an awkward angle causing the nub as well as adjacent areas on the nozzle to fracture. This may explain why the nub breaks off with a piece of nozzle. I would make sure that the nozzle return spring is installed properly (and not displaced when the gun is in action) and strong enough to return the nozzle to battery. Make sure that the coils on the nozzle return spring is symmetrical, any coils that are bent may indicate that the spring is getting caught by something, which will affect the spring's strength in returning the nozzle to battery.

Yeah, during installation It felt like return spring was a lot weaker compared to the the one in my hicapa. I'll try stretching the spring a bit once I get a new nozzle. If that still doesn't work then I'll bring my gun to you, turok_t. Hopefully it works :( nozzles aren't that cheap for a student if they keep breaking lol.

DON'T stretch the spring that's just going to make it worst. You need a proper nozzle return spring with uniform coils. Try getting a spring set from MAG or SA 150% nozzle spring

hello all, ive lurked this thread for a long time so i thought id say hi now that ive caught the modding bug and just got a tm g17 and guarder frame

I just bought a WE Glock 19 3rd Gen. Having owned four or five KWA Glocks, a WE G17 and using a half dozen TMs Glocks, I have to say this gun is very very impressive. It kicks hard, is gas efficient and reliable, plus I notice a few very nice improvements over the WE G17 I have - like a much stiffer safety plate that doesn't bounce around when I charge the gun, and a trigger that stays back after you dry-fire. I'd go for a TM Glock 19 given the choice, but unfortunately it doesn't exist yet.

The Gunsmodify extended slide stop went right in, though that crosspin was more trouble than it was probably worth. Locks open every time.

The SD +2 baseplates are very tight, but I just sanded the insides down until they fit the magazines and slid off without too much force. I like how they add extra material to the magazine for reloads and how they fit the gun aesthetically, though I can see why they can be a hassle.

I might get a TLR-3 for it if I run it at my local field's pistol night. ((Not enough love for modern lights in opening post >_> ))

Shock Buffers?
 

I bought a tm g18c as my first gas gun this summer and have had pretty good stock performance with it. The only thing is, i can only find HFC-152a duster gas to use with it, and duster gas is pretty weak anyways. I am going to make the upgrade to propane because it is cheaper and has a higher pressure. For my gun to take the propane, i have to make sure it won't break under the increased pressures. How does this sound for a start?; PGC CNC slide/barrel set, Guarder 150% enhanced recoil/hammer springs and guide rod, and Guarder original frame. But the only problem is that i still need to get some shock buffers to make sure that my front screw post/casing don't give out on me. I have heard that the guarder front screw post is not that much better than the stock marui one, and i don't want it breaking on me. I don't want to buy the nineball spring guide pro (the one with the buffers preinstalled) because the spring is too weak for a metal slide and i would essentially be paying about 45 bucks for two shock buffers. I have been looking around for some, but have only came up with the ones from airsoft surgeon that are for the 1911/MEU/Hi-Capa. I'm not sure, but these (if they fit?) look like they would not protect the front screw post too well. So would these fit (does 1911 etc. have about the same diameter guide rod)? Also, what are some other shock buffers i could buy(i don't want to make homemade ones)?

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/sa-recoil...rui-glock.html

If it's a newer TM Glock, don't bother with the hammer spring upgrade, the original is just as strong and is a better fit... alot of people had more problems after the upgrade. I use the buffer from the Nine Ball spring guide but like you said, it sucks... but the buffers are great tho and work on any spring guides. Those above do the job and are quite inexpensive. For the front screw post, the Guarder frame fares much better than the original but still, to be sure, fill in the gap in front of the post with Cold Weld or Epoxy paste, and it'll last you forever.

Thanks for the response and the link, man! Unfortunately, the buffers in the link are out of stock:(. e-luder, about the buffers, you said, Which buffers are you talking about? Are they still in stock? What are the best buffers to buy that will protect my front screw post the best? Pls respond.

Btw how do I get my age "verified" here? I am almost 19 right now

Thx-Will

Guarder Frames are good and generally lasts longer than the stock Marui Frame. It has a nicer matte finish than the shiny Marui one. I personally HATE the stock frame....

Though, it has some nice advatages, The Guarder frame is not invincible. As I stated before in previous posts, the frame will will break sooner or later. Sometimes it takes a few hundred rounds, sometmes a few thousands and sometimes, never during the duration of ownership until it gets traded or sold. Then the poor bastard who buys it has to deal with the eventuality of a broken screw casing.

The screw casing's design needs to be changed, IMO. Either by slanting the casing altogether or having a better structural re-design to have more structural integrity.

For me, before I install any new frame (Marui or Guarder), I always cement the casing in epoxy or something of that nature to provide a better base and strutural support to the casing.

Here is what I do:
Regarding your shock buffers...

I was referring to the SA Shock buffers. They are made of hard rubber and come in packs of about 5 or 6(-ish). They do the job but I feel like they are still pretty hard. All they do is short stroke your gun. Even then, if they can't "absorb" the felt recoil, the buffers are somewhat ineffective.

THe best buffers I have ever came across (that I bought) was the NineBall buffers from that spring rod set. But essesntially, that's what you'd be buying if you don't want the crappy spring that comes with it.

BUT the very very very best system to use is to create a second stage spring on the recoil rod. You can see this design on the Marui or KSC Glock 26s or on some competition grade hi-capas. Basically, you'd need a smaller spring in place of the buffer springs and a plunger to separate it from the recoil spring. The spring needs to be stronger than your recoil spring or else it won't work properly.

To be quite honest, there is no real protection against the breakage of the screw casing. It's a matter of time. You can only delay it...

As for your age verification, have a look at the stickies on this forum. Here's the FAQ thread about it: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=49408

It may help if you fill in your location on your profile so that people can assist you in that process...

Bought this hammer, waiting for it to arrive.

Also a question, should I use the guarder 150% recoil spring or the stock spring?

I also have an aip spring

Depends one how heavy your slide assembly is.
Stick with a Guarder if you have a heavy slide (ie. Metal slide, heavy BBU, etc etc)
Stick with the stock spring if you a light slide (ie stock slide).

I have the PGC slide but I've heard of problems with the guarder 150% spring

such as?

Need help to upgrade a KJW G27
 

Just arrived I want to upgrade my KJW G27 Metal slide.
For first I want to change the recoil rod with the Guarder steel one with a new spring. This is my first doubt; what is the right recoil spring considering its strenght? I found spring from 70% to 200%.
Next part a Precision inner barrel, if I find it (sold out everywhere) and I don't know which diameter; the come form 6.01 to 6.04 and a new Hop_up rubber, the Marui original.
The most desired upgrades should be the Guarder Steel slide and outer barrel but I am afraid to have trouble to fit them.
[IMG]http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/7839/glock27.jpg[/IMG]

I am forgiving the lack of the safety trigger due to legal issue....nex upgrade

I wouldn't go past the 150% benchmark and even then, it's pushing it.

The slide is too short and weight less than a standard size Glock. So a something like a 175% or 200% spring won't do much on a stock slide. It'll probably shorten the slide stroke such that it won't even complete the cycle to the rear. or worse, there will be too much resistance and the slide won't cycle at all.

For a steel slide you'd probably want a 175% spring since it is a bit heavier than the aluminum ones.

In general, most short barrelled Glock parts are close to not existing any more. That Guarder recoil rod has been out of stock for a long while now. I know that I found one on Dentrinity but someone here said that when he ordered, he got an email saying that the part was out of stock.

If you really want a Glock to "work on", the Marui Glock 17 is the preferred choice. Most aftermarket parts manufacturers cater the this platform because of its versatility. One minute it can be a competition type gun, the next it can be a skirmish gun...

For your inner barrel, I generally follow a rule that if a target is below...say... 20ft or 30ft, i stay with an 6.03 barrel. Anything above that distance, I go 6.01 with a proper hop up tuning.

On a short barrelled Glock like yours though, I stick with 6.01 to to compensate for the short barrel length....

There is, I've developed a simple procedure which transfers the energy from recoil into the frame of the trigger pin hole rather than into the fastener post.

I'm just working on CAD which simulates the stresses on the post before and after the modification.

Preliminary testing proves successful as no signs of cosmetic fatigue or fractures along the surface of the fastener post on Frame #1.

I can't say much about Frame #2.

Preliminary tests done outdoors at 2.0 degrees centigrade on compressed air @ approx 110 PSI to exaggerate plastic behavior in the material.

Frames #1 and #2 on Left and Right respectively.

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/5443/img4723l.jpg

Oh you tease. Telling us there is a way to prevent the frame breakage without telling us! :D

My my my....
That's quite an effective fix. How'd you do THAT? lol.

also,

does it work on a stock frame? it would save people a lot of money!!!

I'm guessing you drill out the rail guide (part #18 on a G17) and enlarge the fixing hole till it won't touch the plastic. Then the energy will transfer to the pin crossing the frame.

YES, you've got the idea Danke.

The plastic will still have to touch Part #18, but there will be no horizontal motion as it keeps the slide secure. But if you give the part enough free lateral space, it will keep the slide from ripping the fastener post off.

:D I'm just working on the write up.

The procedure is simple, however it will require a mill and the right end mills. A drill press if you are savvy perhaps.

I've already done maybe a dozen Glocks for others, they've been circulating around. The ones that came back to me I haven't seen break, and I'm hoping it stays that way. :)

Yeah I've been doing that for years. But the problem was that over time the inner chasis ended up becoming wobbly. This was because there wasn't enough "support" for the screw to put a bit of pressure to properly hold the chasis in place. If I tighten the screw too tight, it still breaks the screw casing anyways because there is still the lateral movement to combat coming from the screw itself.. The casing did break but not as fast but over time it did.

I think the problem is that the screw itself is what absorbs the majority of the shock. And then it just wiggles around when the slide cycles and eventually that kinetic energy is transferred to screw casing and eventually wears down and breaks it. This is why the Guarder frames only break from the bottom section of the screw casing since there is that metal insert in there to protect the plastic. The problem is, it's not fully grounded to the frame to brace the impact a bit better which is why they still break..

I don't even use that bolt screw in some of my Glocks. I just bolt the chasis to the frame with SuperGlue or JB Weld. The recent way I've come with is only specific to the Guarder frame and It involves cementing the bottom section of the screw casing.... On stock frames it doesn't work because the casing will shred from the top first then make its way to the bottom....

But then again, I probably didn't do it as well as you do it....lol.

Are you still using the counter sunk flat head? I'm using a button and socket fasteners, and I just thread lock that and it will stay put even allowing free lateral motion.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3356/img4714.JPG

I elongated the hole forwards and backwards (that is towards the end of muzzle and towards the hammer mech) ONLY and not side to side.

THe bolt screw is "free" to move back and fourth in the chasis but it still has a some material to go latch onto (the side to side part). I tried both stock and a Canadian Tire bolt for it and got the same results. So I deemed the fix useless....

From the looks of that pic, I looks like there is a surrounding interaction point between the screw and chasis. Which, seems like there is still a transfer of shock between the frame and bolt screw in that scenario. For the screw casing to be preserved, i think that the chasis needs to not grip the screw at all. That's why I ommit using that screw sometimes...

There is actually zero lateral forces in contact with the post of the frame, but there will always be a minimal horizontal force with each cycle. Have you done anything to the bottom of the chassis? If the fastener is not thread locked, and it's tightened again, it makes this mod moot.

I've been using a G17 for about 2 years with a little under 2000 BBs and is still intact. :)

Not so much the bottom. Because of the design of my fix, the front side (under the muzzle) needed to be packed so that the chasis has a brace to take the forward shock and additinally stablize the frame.

Thanks a lot, tomorrow I'll try to order the recoil rod hoping it is available, do you know what rear and front sights are goo for my KJW stock slide?

I don't know tobe honest. I never really tried to change the stock sights on a KJW before...

Not sure how each aftermarket company will fit the best on your KJW slide but be prepared to put in some time with a needle file or a dremmel to get a good fit (as with any other slide and sight combo for any pistol).

Help me to chose the right Hop Up chamber
 

I am upgrading my KJW G27, I am ordering upgrades from different stores and I need help to chose the right hop up rubber chamber.
My intention is to find the original Marui stock one, but if I can't find it on the market the chose is different; I have found the Firefly but the are sold in three variants; extra soft, soft and Hard; what is the differenze and what other upgrades influence the performances of the Hop Up rubber?

Hardness of the hop rubber will depend on the FPS output of your gun. If it's greater than 330FPS (on 0.20g BBs) I'd go with a hard rubber. If it's less than 270 FPS i'd go with the extra soft, and for everything else in between go with the soft.

There's also no harm in using a hard rubber if you're not quite at 330 FPS, but plan to be there eventually.

Any hop up rubber designed for any TM GBB will fit across all pistols.

Any of you guys have a problem with the stock slide catch?

I just found my thumb rubs on it and locks the slide back.

I don't know if my issue is similar, but, due also to my weak recoil spring, my slide seems to lock on to something when it is 3/4 back. Maybe the little metal wheel outside the hammer mechanism. This dosn't compromise cycling doe now but it is an annoying issue.
The pistol is a KJW G27, all stock for now

Mine is definitely the catch. I was fine until I tried switching from Modern Weaver to Isosceles.

My pistol is new, only fired 400/500 bb's and perhaps needs a break in period and a steonger recoil spring

Lol das gut!

Check the little spring for the slide catch and make sure it hasn't broken or moved position somehow.

What a piece of shit.

Do yourselves a favour and don't buy the Guarder "Enhanced" Nozzle. I installed a brand new one and this happened in under a magazine worth of shots:

http://fairsoft.ca/personal/1200/20130215_190327.jpg

look at this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDhFr...3PhQqE&index=6

i have one in my glock 17 and an other one in my glock 18c and no more lock feeling.

As for the guarder nozzle i have one and if you have cut your nozzle spring guide(if you use aftermarket slide) it will last long. i'm near 1000 bbs and still strong...

I think I either need to put on the bigger backstrap or be less caveman can shoot with it.

Yeah i stopped using these muzzles. I broke 5 in a month! The Shooter's Desing POM or the Airsoft Surgeon are much stronger.

Danke, sometimes the trigger pin will crimp or dislodge the catch spring. Is the spring properly seated? Or you're mistakingly tripping it each time you grip it?

Ah. I see. i didnt see the rest of your posts.

One way i remedied this is to adjust my grip by widening it. the grip thingy on the tm G17 custom. it spaces the grip and the grip tang a bit. Gripped thumb over over thumb on isoceles stance. Bladed stance changes to have my strong thumb just resting on the butt of my off hand controls the muzzle through the trigger guard serrations with my index and tightens the grip in general in this stance.

The grip strap is probably a good idea.

on the mechanical side, you can bend the catch spring a bit to have more outward pressure to resist the pressure applied when you accidentaly trip it ...

It was my thumb, when I switched stances my weak thumb sits right by the catch.

With the stock frame and thumb rest the weak is under the strong. With the HK3 frame and backstrap I can't use the thumb rest so I wrap the weak over the strong in the isosceles.

It's just a hair of a change but enough to make it happen.

Lol, I'm back to the original nozzle after the Guarder broke. Do you have any that you'd be willing to sell me in that grand hoard of yours? :p

Edit: Does anyone know if WE/etc branded magazines are compatible with Marui Glocks? I recall seeing a post here about how the WE magazines were somehow better, but I can't find it again (or anything about compatibility) if my life depended on it. I've been looking for the past half a hour and have yet to find anything remotely relevant.

I just wanted to chime in that I had the exact same failure about 2 or 3 shots after installing the same Guarder muzzle (from Airsoft Parts). Not cool.

ROFL, yours cracked in half too? I was getting low blow-back which I originally attributed to the slide (being a tight Guarder), but I found this when I decided to open it all up.

E-luder: might want to change your main page about the recommendation about the Guarder Muzzle being the "best", lol.

Add another one to the pile, broke within the first mag after I installed a few days ago. As you can see half of it got stuck in the BBH, took me a while to get that out.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/19469134/Ai...15.23%20PM.png

As for the WE mags, they are fantastic. The best 2 upgrades I ever did to my glock were installing a guarder mag catch and switching to WE mags.

My G17 was acting sub-par with it's PGC metal slide and only managing around 18 shots on green at 260 FPS. Installed a Guarder metal magazine catch & tested with WE mags, and the results were impressive. WE mag with the new mag catch gets 55 shots on green at 310 FPS. The TM mags were less impressive but they did get a bump, 30 shots & 290FPS.

Wow! That sounds impressive. I was only considering them since they are substantially cheaper, but this sounds awesome. Any problem with leaks? How's the fit and finish on them?

Noted.

It was based on both money value and fitting. The whole thread is about that. I can't really speak for everyone but judging from my experience they were the best in terms of drop in readiness and the duration it lasted during my test which was over a year in a half in continued useage.

Mine guarder ones only break in one specific Glock I own. The piston head i have installed provdes a very tight seal coupled with a high intensity blowoff valve. The muzzle couldn't handle the pressure anymore so it cracked in half. lol.

But i would still rank them pretty high on the list.

Fit just the same as the TM mag's and the finish is good. The baseplates are a little loose compared to the TM but thats just me being picky.

The big difference is in the fill. While the TM mags sputter when they are full the WE mags fill completely silently. They also dont seem to leak as much (if any) gas while filling.

Mine worked great straight from the store (evike), although I know maciej has had some problems with other varieties of WE mags, having to soak the o-rings before use. (1911 if I remember).

At half the price you cant go wrong, I always reach for a WE mag before the TM, they are just backups now.

Thanks for all the help. You've convinced me to buy 10 magazines from Evike just now. :p

Yes, thanks, this seems to be my issue. If i don't make any mods, the issue will worsen?

To clarify the above bit, I soaked the seals out of the box because they seemed a bit dry and I think the mags had been empty for a long time and I detected some leaking. I found the seals on the insides of my WE mags to be pretty damned impressive, big fat and juicy seals compared to my TM seals.

I did the seal soaking on Glock, 1911, and Hi-Capa mags by WE. They're holding up well.

Gee I wish I knew this before I bought 4 TM extended mags for my 18c >.>

Also wish I knew about the guarder nozzle thing

About the mags, For my KJW G27 as first spare I bought a Marui G265 mag; made much better with satin finish and metal base plate (kjw is plastic), differences in filling, KJW is very silent and need a little of practice to know when it is full, Marui leack a bit of gas during filling but it is easy to know when i full filled.
one thing I don't like about the Marui is the upper lip, very tight, it is impossible to remove bb's with finger as I do with the KJW

One issue I have with Marui mag is that sometime after inserted doesn't shot; I pull the trigger but probably the valve knocker dosn't hit the mag valve.
Anyone know the solution to this issue? I read that is necessary to file the plastic square under the lip

AIP Aluminum Hop-up Base
 

Anyone has tried this? http://www.get-reload.com/aip-alumin...es-p-1447.html

If no too much fitting is required it is much lighter than the stock one and this should help the cycling action

Searched for a while but couldn't find a straight up answer, so I'll just ask here real quick...

Is it possible to use the spring guide rod from a KSC-based Glock in a TM-based one?

EDIT: To clarify, I mean the recoil spring guide rod.

This is alright. I've tried this before. It wasn't quite as drop in friendly as some users have reported. I had to modify my slide lock slightly to get it to sit properly.

The action is not really increased with this thing installed though. It's all about the slide to outer barrel action that makes the action more fluent.

Not quite sure if it will work. I've never tried swapping the two. I tried just the springs.
THe main difference in the two is the spring stoppper thingy at the end. The KSC Version has a flatbed while the Marui one has a more pointed top. Plus I think that the Marui is slightly thicker. I dunno I have to check tonight to see...

It may work if your slide doesn't have the slide spacer installed....

e-luder can you help me for this issue?

In my KJW G27 the stock mag works well but the Marui one sometime after inserted doesn't shot; I pull the trigger but probably the valve knocker dosn't hit the mag valve.
It works properly only inserting it with strenght. I think may be the upper seal a little too thick than the KJW one. Have you experiences a similar problem?

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It only works if the mag is "slammed" in there? That is, the Marui mag is inserted with a lot of force?

There is only two POSSIBLE causes for why that magazine isn't working properly.

1). The magazine catch is not compatible with the Marui mag and can't seat the Marui mag properly.

2). The valve knocker (the firing pin) does not have enough clearance to hit the MARUI magazine blowoff valve efficiently, resulting in the symptoms you've described. This is caused by the difference in height that Marui mag has VS the KJW mag. In this case, the Marui mag Valve probably sits higher than the KJW mag valve. Thus, the strike face of the firing pin can't make the proper contact point on the Marui system. It probably slips around valve or something.

3). The hammer spring is not strong enough. This not a likely conclusion but it may help point you on where to look.

It could be a possibility that both are happening at the same time. But since you say that the magazine is works only when you apply force during insertion, I would assume that the magazine catch is not seating the magazine properly.

I don't have the gun in front of me to see what's going with it. So I could be wrong entirely which is why I won't recommend a fix for you. Inspect your gun first....

I have ordered many upgrades for my pistol and one of this is the Guarder steel magazine catch, I hope this solve the issue

Sorry I got the two terms mixed up. On isoceles, I use the "straight thumb" grip:

http://www.handgunsmag.com/files/201...tg_100206d.jpg

This allows me to clear the slide catch better because the weak thumb is off the catch completely. On bladed stance I go thumb over thumb to compensate for the bended elbow.

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...8OciEv3lgI3jdt

There is a trick that I use wherein I use the curvature of the thumb over the slide catch to allow if full clearance. But then again, this is only for my preference.

In general though, I prefer the straight thumb method as it allows me better control.

Same grip with the strong one or two handed, both thumbs forward. Going to the i-grip I moved my weak thumb back a bit.

I need to shoot a lot more in the i to fine tune where my hand is and make 2 thumbs forward work for that. Also I have to put on gloves since I am usually wearing those too.

Morale of the story at least related to all things Glock is I don't know if I need an extended slide release yet.

Have you tried something like this?
http://www.gripforceproducts.com/ima..._6a4c_zagh.jpg

It'll move the grip tang a tad lower and force you to have a lower grip registration. Theoretically, your thumb placement should be just below the slide catch with this installed.

The problem is, depending on the comfort level of your trigger pull (ie. HOW you pull the trigger or "squeeze" the trigger) the placement of your finger on the trigger may be altered out of its comfort zone.

If you're having trouble with an ungloved hands with the stock slide catch, then it may be wise for you to stay off the extended slide catch. The GunsModify can catch very easily on a really thick glove.

I had a thumb rest before I put the HK3 frame on. It won't fit with the extra backstrap.

I kind of like the slim feel with it off but I might grind it out and see.

So how about that tutorial? Ive been dying to do this to my glock.