Sticky'd!

I enjoyed this very informative write up. Thanks BenG.

You'll eventually find that wearing the lowest profile goggle available (eg: Boogie Regulator; Oakley M-Frames) will alleviate the "straw" effect you get when wearing higher profile goggles (JTs, ESS Turbofans, etc.)

This is a great post!

My favourite counter weight was at BFT 2 John walks off the field reaches into his counter weight pouch and busts out a beer

For low-pro eyewear, I went over to the Revision bullet ants and have found a massive difference in fogging issues, at least so far. I haven't tried them with NV, but with their low profile and wide view design I'm sure they'd be effective.

Best counterweight I've used was the spare locking wheel nuts off Wintez's truck lol

Oakley M-frame 2.0 and Oakley tombstones work REALLY well with NV, they sit nice and close to your face.
Most fields around here will allow M-frames with HELO kits as full seal.

Counter weights
 

As a NON velcro backing alternative I use GJMD Compact MOLLE EDC Pouch, Has loops & velcro straps running vertically. fits PASGT Ratchet Strap mount perfectly. Use dead double a batteries works quite well for weights.


http://i.imgur.com/3ThIomx.jpg

It may also be worth noting Tube to Housing compatibility in the article, as well as the primary types of tubes available in the market:

MX-11769 Type (Tube made for PVS-14 style housings utilizing a pig tail for gain control)

MX-10160 Type (Tube made for AVS,BNVD,BNVS systems which do not depend on a pigtail for gain control) (Also backwards compatible with most PVS-14 and other monocular variant housings)

MX-10130 Type (Non-inverting tube designed for systems such as the PVS-7, that utilize a beamsplitter to splice 1 image into 2 eyepieces)

Question: Is it worthwhile running polycarb shield or should I just harden up and use sacrificial lenses? I can understand using polycarb shield (the Buttler Creek mod) for indoor games, but for outdoor games, you will be losing light transmissibility even with 1mm polycarb to my somewhat limited understanding.

The question I am juggling with is whether it is worthwhile running amber filters or sacrificial lens to reduce that lost, especially since I have a Photonis XX1441 tube - not exactly a Gen 3 high performance tube...

Using 2.5mm optical grade polycarbonate I don't experience any light transmissibility issues. You're good to go, just make sure to use optical grade polycarbonate.

Sacrificial windows work also, only difference I find is that they are optically coated from the exterior, however this has had zero impact viewing through my Binos.

Ive always used 2.5mm lexan and experience no image quality loss, or loss in gain, I had a friend using a D300 SHP who was loosing a bit of gain from his lens protector although im not sure what it was.

Another question - how practical is it to aim with an NV capable red dot while wearing a monocular?

Very practical, Army trains this way. Check out eye dominance aiming with nightvision devices.

To elaborate:

Shooting right handed with both eyes open, using your right eye to aim down the sight, your MNVD would be on your left eye. With practice both sight pictures will merge and your red dot sight will appear on your left eye superimposed over your nightvision picture. If someone uses a weapon light, you may temporarily lose your picture from your MNVD, but you will still have your sight picture from your weapon and thus, can still aim and actively engage your target.

This is where it is more useful to use a binocular. With a monocular you get a good amount of blur where the ring or frame of your optic is visible and way out of focus. Here's a shitty phone photo to illustrate. I'm using an Aimpoint CompM4S.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse1aeofk5.jpg

What some people do is use the NOD on the non dominant eye, and look through the red dot with the dominant eye. I find that this does not work for me except in decently well lit conditions, because I need certain things to be bright enough to be reference landmarks on my naked eye to match the images together.

What I do is I only put part of my NOD behind my optic. That way the blurriness is mostly on the bottom of my image, but I still see my reticle at the very center.

Got it - thanks to you both.