Originally Posted by RainyEyes (Post 2002593)

Are you saying that you have done it already or that you intend to do that?

In theory it's sound but the problem isn't the area around the post that will prevent it from breaking but the actual post itself. The screw threads aren't very thick and they don't go very deep into the frame itself.

Typical TM front post screw on left, my personal aftermarket m1/m2 screw on the right:
http://i65.tinypic.com/8vxaxe.jpg

There's a hell of a lot of real estate where the screw is but TM designed it to be shallow for some reason. Making it deeper will make the screw act like an anchor and send more of the energy into the frame itself rather than the post. Notice how in this post, all of them crumble and separate into pie fragments: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpos...&postcount=112

Drilling the hole and filling it up w/ jb weld with a better screw is still experimental so I would actually advise against it unless you are super rich or don't mind trying it on a broken gun anyway.

What you could also do is use loctite or jb weld on the screw itself inside the hole so that it will sit permanently flushed as 1 piece into the frame. When the front post braces for impact from your slide's recoil it will pull on the chassis of the gun which tugs on the screw and that unleashes force onto the front post. By filling in the gaps of the front post you make it so that you're pulling on the whole front of the lower frame instead of just the post. Filling the surrounding area will only protect the surrounding area of the post from being pulled away. There is now a greater risk of the front post's screw threading to be pulled away along with the post.

Pic for reference of typical px4 frame failure:
http://i68.tinypic.com/a9pw79.jpg

You will need to put JB weld inside as well as outside the post to make it more secure. Doing this will undoubtably make it more difficult for future repairs and replacements.

Also don't get oil or any kind of lubricant on JB weld. That stuff seems to make some plastics swell and JB weld might also react to it.

Originally Posted by Kayakee (Post 2003818)

Wow, I just bought a TM G18C and what I found????
This fantastic thread.
I never saw a so complete informations content anywhere. Bravo :) :) :)

I'm a newbie in airsoft. I must admit that I never played a game yet but it should happen this weekend. Yes I did a common mistake, I bought an airsoft without trying the game Lollll.

But I'm not worried. I known that I will like it.

Quick question base on the first part of this thread.

It is mentionned to use duster gaz instead of Green gaz for plastic slider if we want durability and this is the case for the TM G18C stock.

However, my TM G18C specification say to use Green Gaz.

Because the post started in 2012, may be TM made some modifications since then.

So, should I use green gaz?

Originally Posted by Kayakee (Post 2003818)

Wow, I just bought a TM G18C and what I found????
This fantastic thread.
I never saw a so complete informations content anywhere. Bravo :) :) :)

I'm a newbie in airsoft. I must admit that I never played a game yet but it should happen this weekend. Yes I did a common mistake, I bought an airsoft without trying the game Lollll.

But I'm not worried. I known that I will like it.

Quick question base on the first part of this thread.

It is mentionned to use duster gaz instead of Green gaz for plastic slider if we want durability and this is the case for the TM G18C stock.

However, my TM G18C specification say to use Green Gaz.

Because the post started in 2012, may be TM made some modifications since then.

So, should I use green gaz?

Originally Posted by The Phoenix Reborn (Post 2012611)

I recently got myself a WE G17 (Gen 4) because I could not for the life of me find a TM G17.

With regards to the upgrade parts listed in this amazing post, I was wondering how many (If any) of them are compatible with the WE G17, particularly the Gen 4 version? I've been looking to see if I could eventually change things like the slide and the inner-barrel and perhaps putting on one of these attachments (https://www.evike.com/products/54251/) so that I could place a mock-silencer / tracer on mine, but I don't want to go and get myself a bunch of parts that won't fit.

Originally Posted by Danke (Post 2013967)

You can fit and swap most of the TM upgrade parts to a WE Glock. I've done a couple that if you check this thread or the Pistol pictures that you'll see.

I have also done TM ones though and I find the TM is much easier to work with and the end product is just better performing.

Originally Posted by The Phoenix Reborn (Post 2015017)

Nice. It's good to know that at the very least I'll be able to work with the WE Glock until I can get my hands on a TM in the future.

I recently acquired a Gunsmodify Trigger for my WE G17 and was wondering if anyone has had experience installing one of 2016 versions before?

Specifically, for mine, the adjustment screw is actually on the back of the trigger rather than at the front and I'm having trouble figuring out how to adjust this as I've only been able to find tutorials for the other style trigger where the adjustment screw goes in from the front.

Adjustment Screw in the Rear
https://shop.r10s.jp/military-base/c...emc/gm0026.jpg

Adjustment Screw in the Front
http://www.a-airsoft.com/image/cache...1-1000x600.jpg

Cheers!

Originally Posted by zReaperAssassin (Post 2018569)

Has anybody heard about the UAC shutting down rumour?? I loved their parts, my glock is pretty well all UAC :P, but if they are I was considering getting some spare parts and maybe even some upgrade ones. Any truth to this and would it be worth it to possibly get the UAC Hammer & Sear, plus the UAC trigger and hammer housings?